Going to Farne Islands for Puffin watching. Perfect weather, perfect seas, just a little late in the season.
I understand that Seahouses, where the boat docks are, has a lot of tourist restaurants. Any decent ones? Any decent chippies?
Going to Farne Islands for Puffin watching. Perfect weather, perfect seas, just a little late in the season.
I understand that Seahouses, where the boat docks are, has a lot of tourist restaurants. Any decent ones? Any decent chippies?
The main ones are Neptune and Hooks (formerly known as Pinnacles). They are almost opposite one another. There's also Lewis's a couple of minutes up the high street. They are all very similar.
Eat them on a bench overlooking the harbour https://maps.app.goo.gl/JZ9uGWMr6v5TBrb6A
The best fish and chips are further south at the Harbour View at Seaton Sluice.
thanks for the reference to Seaton Sluice. I've never been but there's a National Trust property I'm hoping to visit this trip. Good info
I know you asked about Seahouses, but in case you are looking for seafood in the area more generally later, we had a really excellent lunch at the Potted Lobster in Bamburgh just up the road.
We visited the puffins as well- loads to see tho the sea was slightly rough when we went. We also learnt the hard way that if your boat is due back in during low tide you need to queue to get back into the port as there is only one dock that can be used for both boarding and disembarking when the tide is low- we wound up bobbing just outside the port for about 20 minutes waiting for our slot.
thanks for the heads up Cat VH
we specifically picked a time when the tide is up - my wife would have trouble with too many steps.
I had one of the best meals of my life in Seahouses at the Black Swan Inn. It's a bit fancier than one of the chippies, but the food was incredible.
interesting, Mardee
I've just looked at the menu. Sounds wonderful
What did we see?
30 Gannets (largest British sea bird, 6 foot wingspan) all flying just above the waves in a line formation, very impressive. They were over open water maybe 100 yards from the boat
Many Shag standing proud at the tops of the rocks
Thousands of Kittiwakes which were nesting on the tiniest of tiny rough bits on the cliff faces, with a few bits of vegetation that they use as the nests. The boat brought within touching distances of the cliffs and very close to the birds. Very loud, saw thee balls of feathers which were the chicks and both parents on most nests. Impossible to count how many Kittiwakes we saw.
Many Guillemots and Razorbills standing higher up the cliffs. They have Jumplings. These are the nearly ready for prime time chicks who need to make the transition from the nest. Mom stays at the nest with the kiddo while Dad flies down to the water below them. Mom gives the kid a prod and a push and the chick leaps off the cliff and lands in the water. Dad retrieves the Jumpling and takes 3 weeks teaching it how to swim, fish and dive deep. Sounds like a great summer camp, eh? Then they all fly off to the ocean, and 5 years later they return, fully grown and ready to breed. We were told that they return to a place as close as 20cm from where they were hatched.
After 90 minutes floating very near the cliffs of several of the outer islands we went to the bigger island of Inner Farne where we landed and had an hour on shore. Puffins, puffins, puffins, although because we were right at the end of the season a couple of weeks ago on July 10, many were already "rafting", large groups floating together off the islands, which is an indication that they are ready to leave. Saw many diving for food, some returning to their burrows, many standing next to the burrows, not many chicks which tend to stay hidden in the burrow until ready for prime time. A week earlier we would have seen many more.
Getting to the puffins was difficult because of the even larger colony of Arctic Terns. These birds nest on the ground, making their own nests but often using the nesting boxes on the ground EVERYwhere by the National Trust. They are extremely loud and very protective of any approach to the nest.
MORE
to include
Good Ship Serenity
Boat tour inches from thousands of birds
Gannet skein
kindness of rangers
holes in heads
well yesterday at Inner Farne, Northumberland in far northeast England, before we could get to the Puffins the Arctic Terns, who commute 18,000 miles a year, and who were nesting next to the boardwalk and even in some cases on the boardwalk gave an exceptionally loud and fierce greeting to walkers. I was divebombed and pecked at least 11 times.
The puffins were starting to raft which our guide told us meant they would be gone within 2 weeks. Saw just a few Puflets (fluffy balls of feathers with a huge appetite) but plenty of protective and very good fishers parents.
we, yesterday, were much later in the season.
back soon
Part II coming
MORE
to include
Good Ship Serenity
Boat tour inches from thousands of birds
Gannet skein
kindness of rangers
holes in heads
well yesterday at Inner Farne, Northumberland in far northeast England, before we could get to the Puffins the Arctic Terns, who commute 18,000 miles a year, and who were nesting next to the boardwalk and even in some cases on the boardwalk gave an exceptionally loud and fierce greeting to walkers. I was divebombed and pecked at least 11 times.
The puffins were starting to raft which our guide told us meant they would be gone within 2 weeks. Saw just a few Puflets (fluffy balls of feathers with a huge appetite) but plenty of protective and very good fishers parents.
we, yesterday, were much later in the season.
back soon
Nigel, it sounds wonderful! I'm so glad you are getting to see so many birds!
Hi Nigel,
Thanks for your report on your Puffin trips! A Farne Islands trip is one of the big draws for us in Northumberland next Spring. Which operator did you use? Like your wife, I don't do well with lots of steps or big steps unless I can hang onto something (rail, person etc.).
thanks for the support - world's slowest report but its coming - stand by
coming today
Nigel, this sounds wonderful. I’m looking forward to the rest of your report. How rough was the water? I struggle with seasickness.
And you know we are waiting for more of your wonderful Puffin excursion! So glad you got to go!
Throughly enjoying the report Nigel. Looking forward to more of it.
Really enjoyed this trip report (and hope to read the rest soon!). We're just back from a visit to the Bempton Cliffs and I can confirm the puffins have indeed now left- we just missed them (tho grateful we got to see them in the Farne Islands last month). In case anyone else is hoping to see puffins in the UK I think you will have to wait until next year! And if you're interested in seeing the Bempton Cliffs I do recommend a boat ride with the Yorkshire Belle. Plenty of other birds still to see this time of year, including baby gannets.
That sounds like quite a boat trip to get so close! I am glad it worked for Mrs. Nigel as well! I am waiting eagerly on the rest of the report. :)