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England on our own, assistance please - 30 days by train, bus & e-bike

Greetings. Back again for England trip planning. Now looking at 2027, rather than ’26. Done some guidebook study, looking at this forum, some TRs, the National Trust website, a little RS and more. Been to London before … Oxford too. Looking to what we’ve not seen in London, as well as England's countryside and smaller cities.

We want to include London sights, history, stately homes, country gardens, smaller towns and countryside – and some leisure cycling. 30 days. Whether to travel England only or travel open jaw and include Edinburgh is an open question.

Current thoughts:

  • London, 6 nights, including a day trip or two from that base. Current thoughts: Tower of London, Greenwich, National Gallery, Churchill War Rooms, Tate Britain, Parks (Hyde, St. James, Regence). Perhaps see a play? Further out: Richmond, Kew Gardens, Hampton Court. Day trip to Bletchley Park. Do you have other, less travelled suggestions for London? (Prior visits took in British Museum, Sir John Soane House, Wallace Collection, Tate Modern, V & A Museum, Westminster Abbey, St. Paul’s, The Old Bailey & Hampstead Heath/Kenwood House.)
  • Kent/Sussex. 2 night base in Canterbury? Other sights: Rye, Hastings/Battle Abbey, Leed’s Castle? How is public transportation through this southeast area?
  • Off toward Thames Valley, via Portsmouth? Or Salisbury (and Stonehenge) including a night? Stay in Salisbury? Or Oxford? (Oxford is not absolutely necessary, as we spent a full day some years back and visited the Pitt Museum, Christ Church College and the Ashmolean, though it may be a well situated one or two-night stand). Spend a bit of time at Blenheim Castle. QUERY: How long for this stretch … 2 or 3 nights? Do we transit through London from Sussex? Or circumnavigate London and travel from Sussex to Salisbury or Oxford by some other route?
  • Then to Cotswolds for a 5-night leisure cycle. Now we are up to 15 or 16 nights.
  • Bath 2 nights? Or pass it by? Nearby is Stourhead House & Gardens ... how is that?
  • Stratford/Warwick. 2 or 3 nights? See a play, perhaps.
  • Cambridge East Anglia. 3 nights. 1 day in Cambridge and other time to which of the following: Colchester? Ely Cathedral? Norwich? Sandringham? Burleigh House & Stamford on the way to York, potentially.
  • York – 3 nights? Or just 2? Do we see anything in Yorkshire beyond the City of York (this is now up to 24 to 27 nights; 2 fewer if we skip Bath). Moors, Dales, coast, or castles would necessitate 3 nights.
  • Lake District. 5-night cycle tour. Wordsworth House & Garden and Beatrix Potter
  • Now up to 29 to 32 nights.
  • Still need to get to a departure city for 1 or 3 nights; London or Edinburgh.

This is 30 to 35 nights – potentially 5 more than my beloved will tolerate. Where I ask about 2 or 3 nights, what is realistic for comfortable and meaningful travel?

The two self-guided e-bike journeys (looking at Mac’s Adventures and Saddle Skedaddle) are essential. Otherwise “she-who-must-be-obeyed’s” endurance/tolerance drops to 17 days.

And so ... What should we keep and what should we shorten or scuttle? Or what else should we do or what should we do differently? I had earlier thought of Cornwall, but I now think our 30 day limit does not make that possible.

Also, are there any portions of this journey where we would really be best served to have a car? Perhaps Kent/Sussex and on to Salisbury or Oxford? Or potentially East Anglia?

BTW, the sequence of travel will change with departure city, London vs. Edinburgh. The former involves a circular route; the latter involves more or less a south to north journey after London, unless East Anglia/Cambridge is best visited before Kent/Sussex.

Thanks for your guidance and suggestions.

Posted by
11345 posts

In principal the 'best' departure point from the Lake District is Manchester. However I have looked at this time and time again for SEA (living in the Lake District) and I just can't make it work.
Time and time again I come back to Heathrow or Edinburgh, which is frustrating. The issue is one of connections in the UK for a non stop to SEA- the times and needing to allow buffer time between train and plane at MAN means the hurdle is too big. LHR simply works out smoother, but EDI is as close by train as is MAN.
I'm a BA person to SEA as they are consistently the best value by some margin from the UK (even better than Icelandair) - the equation may be different on a US carrier. The dear wish was to be able to use Alaskan but they have priced themselves too high.

Leeds Castle is best on a Saturday when the direct bus 510 runs from Maidstone, but on a weekday Nu-Venture 13 and 14 run from Maidstone to a close by stop on Penfold Hill- admittedly the timetable is on the thin side.
From Canterbury Rye and Hastings are easy- train changing at Ashford, Battle you could do the same route changing again at Hastings, or the other part of the circle- Canterbury West to Tonbridge/Tonbridge to Battle. On the way don't forget Tonbridge Castle- https://www.tonbridgecastle.org/
Bus is also fairly easy, if it takes longer- change at Maidstone and Tunbridge Wells.

To Portsmouth the non London route is train changing at Tonbridge and Guildford. To Salisbury then probably the slow train to Waterloo East, then downstairs to Waterloo is the easiest, although you could take the Portsmouth route as far as Guildford, change for Woking then the Salisbury train, but that feels fiddly and time consuming.

For me from Salisbury to Oxford the route is Salisbury to Basingstoke/Basingstoke to Oxford, likewise from Portsmouth- 2 trains change at Basingstoke.

Bolting on East Anglia between Oxford and York feels a bit clunky. That would fit better between London and Canterbury IMO.
To cover Norwich, Sandringham (train to Kings Lynn then bus), Norwich and Stamford I think Ely is a better place to stay, or even Kings Lynn- use the fast bus route Kings Lynn to Norwich, and (in the other direction) Peterborough Railway Station. (for trains to York and Stamford).

From York another easy day or half day trip is Selby for Selby Abbey (train or a choice of two bus routes). It is one of Yorkshire's missed places- unlike the better known Abbeys one not in ruins, with a lot of history (some American, I'll drop in as a teaser).

The one fly in the ointment is Stourhead, as that is tough to reach by public transport. Potentially that is even a day trip from London (1 hour 45 Paddington to Castle Cary) if you can organise transport the last 15 miles from Castle Cary.

If you are short of days Bath is the obvious one to cut out, as going from Oxford to Warwick then York flows a lot better, then adding Bath in the middle.

Posted by
766 posts

Stuart. Thanks so much for this.

To avoid the “clunky” part as you put it, how about the following sequence …

  • London
  • Cambridge/East Anglia
  • York
  • Lake Dist.
  • Stratford
  • Cotswolds
  • Salisbury
  • Sussex Kent
  • London, fly away

If that, Blenheim from Cotswolds? Or better as day trip from London in the first week?

The other lights that you shed on Tonbridge Castle, Ely or King’s Lynn as a base, and Selby Abbey are appreciated. I’ll look into those

I’ll also look at Stourhead from London … or maybe that is just too much to tack on?

Another confusion factor to sort - later - is that air fares look better between Edinburgh and Seattle, at the cost of having to fly through Vancouver BC or a variety of US gateway cities.

Most important, as you’re an Englishman familiar with travels in your own country, how does this itinerary seem to you in general? 14 months to departure, so this is very early. And plan as I may, I always aim to leave a little free play for the unexpected busker or side trip or festival.

Posted by
11345 posts

To me that is a good methodical circle.

And don't forget there is the direct and fairly frequent bus #1 and #2 from Stratford on Avon to Moreton-in-Marsh. I'm never sure whether to suggest Warwick in place of Stratford on Avon. It's that bit easier to get to (and that bit less touristy), but if you want to see a play at Stratford then the last bus back to Warwick (on what is a good service) is at around 2230 which is probably a bit tight.

So it's an option.

Blenheim is often done from London via Oxford as a day trip, but don't forget it can be done from M-i-M by using Hanborough Station instead and walking in on the estate carriage drive (as well as via Oxford). That makes it easy to pop in to see Winston Churchill's grave at Bladon- just up the road from Hanborough Station. At weekends there is also a seasonal bus from Hanborough Station to Blenheim (or has been historically).

I'm wondering how overloaded London is- your core activities are 3, maybe 4 days. Add on Hampton Court, Greenwich and Bletchley Park (all of which are days in their own right) and you are maxed out in my opinion. So doing Blenheim or Stourhead from London means maxing sacrificing something else.

What I'm wondering is renting a car for the day at Salisbury- it's 45 minutes drive each way to Stourhead (or train to Warminster, then the 11 mile taxi ride) then drive the car to wherever in Sussex and off rent it there. Possibly keep it for the Leeds Castle day as well to make it a bit easier. Enterprise are probably the best bet for that.