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Drive around England and Scotland

My husband & I are looking to drive around England and Scotland next year. We are both seniors & love Rick Steve tours. The highlight of the trip will be attending the Military tattoo next August. We want to go to John O’Groats & Orkney Islands, Isle of Skye, Lake District, York, Cornwall & finally London. We are trying to do this in less than 3 weeks. Has anyone done this before and how much were they able to cover. We have been watching Anglotopia for their LeJog trip (Land’s End to John. O’Groats)...very helpful. I would love any suggestions all you travelers may have, we have been to England 3x but mostly to London and we did Rick Steve’s Scotland tour which was amazing. Thank you.

Also, if you hav any hotels, BnB & Castle suggestions would also be quite welcomed. Also restaurant although that is not a major issue. Thanks again

Posted by
6113 posts

Less than 3 weeks isn’t much time to cover so much ground. Cornwall is the geographical outlier, which you may want to consider dropping. Can you fly open jaw into London and out of Edinburgh or vice versa? If you have been to London several times, could you miss it this trip and focus on the north?

There isn’t anything at John o’Groats. Orkney can be done as a day trip or you may wish to spend several days there.

Skye deserves 3 full days there as a minimum. Skye to the Lake District is a 5+ hour drive, so you may wish to break this up with a few days near Glencoe. You aren’t going to see much of the Lake District in less than 3 full days there. As you will have a car, consider staying in the Eskdale area, which is wilder and less touristy than Keswick or Windermere.

You can easily spend 2 full days in York itself plus day trips to the North York Moors, the Yorkshire Dales, Whitby and Ripon.

Posted by
149 posts

Unless the point is to drive the whole time, I would consider dropping Cornwall, at least, since it’s the furthest away. I know above they mentioned there is nothing much at John o’groats but the same is for lands end. If going there is the whole point of Cornwall, it’s a trip wasted. And I agree with dropping London since you have been. All of those places in less than 3 weeks is far too much.

Posted by
3122 posts

I agree with the other comments about omitting Cornwall, since your other areas of interest are in Scotland and the north of England.

Can you fly open jaw US-London-Edinburgh-US or the reverse? That would save backtracking.

Posted by
25 posts

thank you so much for your suggestions. We discussed it further this morning and made some changes. So let me list them. We will fly into Heathrow, drive to York... (we like the idea of dropping Cornwall and John O’Groats(+Orkney Islands). So we may add a day to York. Then on to Edinburgh for the Tattoo 3days, then to Inverness, the to Skye (we might add a day here, too.) on to Fort William to ride the Jacobite train & then to Lake District (thanks for the suggestion where to stay but we want to be lower so we can make it Brighton for 3 days, then back to London. We thought if we take the”M” highways to Brighton we could make In about 7-8 hrs. Nothing in between to see. We have things to do in London so I can’t drop it. If we drop John O’Groats that will give us 2 days to add to either York, Skye or Brighton. A total of 16 days.

Posted by
25 posts

Cynthia. Thanks for all that itenerary..we are dropping Cornwall altogether. We’ve been to Mull, Loch Ness and Aberfeldy. So those are out. We are going to Edinburg after York for the Tattoo, get that out of the way because we will have tickets and can’t delay, then after that we can relax and have some fun. We saw the Jacobite train and decided that was a must because we are train buffs and such beautiful scenery.

Posted by
2393 posts

If you are going from London to York - you might as well go by train. Same for York > Edinburgh - assuming you are not seeing anything in between. Pre-book a specific train around 11 weeks ahead will get you the cheapest fares.

Brighton is a waste of time. A very difficult drive on very busy motorways if coming from the north.

Posted by
713 posts

If you are going from London to York - you might as well go by train.
Same for York > Edinburgh - assuming you are not seeing anything in
between.

I agree. You can relax and enjoy the train journey(s). You can also stop and explore places between those cities if you wish. Such as Durham between York and Edinburgh. In Durham, there's easy access by a circulator bus or taxi between the railway station and the centre of town and the Cathedral. Parking a car in York is anything but easy. I've visited the TripAdvisor discussion board for York, and it seemed that there were almost as many questions from Brits about where to park in York, as from visitors about visiting York in general. York is an old and eminently walkable city - at least, the part that's of interest to visitors. I wouldn't want to be bogged down with a car there. And I'm not shy about hopping in my car for road trips here at home. Just saying.

At the very least I wouldn't rent the car until ready to leave York. There are places in that area you might want to explore by car on your way up to Edinburgh. I haven't looked into the parking/driving situation in Edinburgh but based on my visits to both places, I'd think it would probably not be as difficult as York.

Pre-book a specific train around 11 weeks ahead will get you the
cheapest fares.

This is tricky. Those specific train tickets are good value BUT they can't be changed or refunded if you miss your train. The risks of buying them to be used shortly after your plane lands are obvious. It might make sense to book a hotel room in London for the night of your arrival, convenient to King's Cross railway station, have a relaxing rest, then travel to York by train the next day.

Brighton is a waste of time. A very difficult drive on very busy
motorways if coming from the north.

I don't disagree. I like Brighton; I have friends there whom I visit when I'm in the UK. I always take the train down from London (easy peasy) and am so happy they do any driving required to get us around town.

I'd save the car for areas outside London/York I'd also never get off a transatlantic flight and hop into a rental car at Heathrow. Perhaps you are used to driving on the left side of the road in a right-hand drive car, but even so it seems risky to try that when just off a long flight several time zones from home.

Posted by
25 posts

James thanks. We actually were thinking if we based in Brighton we could drive over to Dover & Canterbury to the East and maybe Portsmouth Dawlish to the west in a 3 day period. Maybe we could stay in a smaller town just above Brighton. Any suggestions would be welcomed.

Suz... thank you. I like your suggestion of relaxing a little in London before hitting the road but logistically might be difficult to get a car. We want to visit some castles on the way to York (is: Hardwick Castle) and on the way to Edinburgh Fountains Abbey & Alnwick. Our last trip we did very well sleeping on the plane to London’s time and had no jet lag. And we’ve driven on the other side of the road before. So many things to think about.

If we decide to drop off Brighton area we could add those days to other places in the north.

Everyone's Suggestions are so helpful and much appreciated.

Posted by
133 posts

We just returned from Edinburgh on Sat. So, a couple of fresh suggestions.

We got off a cruise ship in Southampton and drove direct to York in about 5 hours (on a Sunday). York is well worth a couple of days. The free walking tour is really excellent, and really free: run by volunteers. York Minster tour is a must and if you can catch evensong that too, is well worth it. Castle Howard is about 30 minutes north and quite interesting - not a castle but rather a "Manor House". We drove from there to Haltwistle to see Hadrian's wall sights. Worth a day if you haven't done it. We stayed 2 nights at Ashcroft B&B. Lovely place. Easy drive from there to Edinburgh.

Edinburgh - they were setting up bleachers for the Tattoo in front of the castle while we were there. Do not consider driving in Edinburgh. Streets are a maze and change names at a whim. GPS will get you there but park it ASAP. Royal mile and castle quite crowded in mid June. I cannot imagine what it would be like during the Tattoo.

Enjoy, Robbie

Posted by
5248 posts

We actually were thinking if we based in Brighton we could drive over to Dover & Canterbury to the East and maybe Portsmouth Dawlish to the west in a 3 day period.

Any particular reason for Dawlish? Without any further reference it appears an odd choice to make and sends you further west than you need be when there are places closer to Portsmouth that may have the same allure as Dawlish.

Posted by
713 posts

Sounds like you're fine with the car. There I was advocating for a nice train trip - and then Nigel pops up with news of a train strike, lol!

Happy travels!

Posted by
32683 posts

South Western Trains don't run trains in any of the places discussed here except the mysterious Portsmouth Dawlish. The two places are far from each other and on different train routes. Dawlish is beyond Exeter on the GWR, Portsmouth is much closer. Chalk and cheese too.

And the strike is in the next 5 days and this trip isn't until sometime next year.

Posted by
713 posts

I know this strike isn't relevant to the OP's trip, Nigel. I was trying to be funny.

And, obviously, failing. Sorry.

Just my regular reminder that the Tattoo is merely a tiny part of the craziness that is Edinburgh in August. A whole bunch of festivals are on, including the Fringe - the world’s biggest arts festival (by a long way). Expect expensive hotels in August and also part of the Royal Mile will be crammed with street performers and just loads and loads of people.

It’s an exhilarating time but if you come to Edinburgh for the Tattoo expecting that to be the only thing in town, you will be shocked by the crowds.

Posted by
25 posts

Hi all. I want thank you for your suggestions which have been so helpful to us. We came up with another trip plan, still not set in stone yet but getting there. First, we want to take a car because we really like the idea of driving and stopping whenever we see something that sparks our interest. We are now looking at Heathrow to York ( stops along the way). 2 nights in York. Then on to Edinburgh with stops along the way, castle and Hadrians Wall, etc. And yes we are aware & ready for many festivals going on during the Tattoo. Then 1 night in Inverness because we’ve been there before and want to go through the Cairngorm Natl Park again. Then off to Portree for 3 because of suggestions, thank you very much, Fort William for Jacobite train, Lake District and back to London. We have things to do in London, which seems we always have things to do there.

If you have any suggestions for BnB’s or hotels that would be very welcomed, too. Again, thank you for your help.

Posted by
25 posts

Hey Nigel.. you will like the story as to why Portsmouth to Dawlish (which we are not doing now). My husband watches the camera at the train station every day and he wanted to wave at it. LOL.

Posted by
5248 posts

I would take the train from London to York, explore York for a couple of days and then collect a car for your onward journey. There's plenty to see via car from York to Edinburgh in your time frame and the train from London to York just makes life so much easier.

Posted by
6867 posts

I second everyone who says "train" from London to York...The M1/A1 is an unpleasant drive, the kind you "have to do" rather than "look forward to doing", and I can't think of any good-yet-quick stop or sidetrip along that route. Plus, if coming from overseas, driving right away or the day after a long flight is more difficult and potentially dangerous.

Posted by
6113 posts

It looks like you have dropped the Brighton idea. A day trip from Brighton to Dover and Canterbury would be 6+ hours of driving, which wouldn’t leave much time for sight seeing, so that wasn’t going to work.

As one who drives monthly from near London to near York, my advice is to take the train. I rarely have a journey these days that doesn’t get badly delayed due to accidents or road works. It’s a boring drive as the scenery is much better north of York.

Posted by
25 posts

Thank you for the advice. We are looking at the trains from Heathrow to York. Does anyone know if one can pick up a train at Heathrow to York or would we have to go into London, Paddington or Kings Cross? I am looking that up today. I think you guys are all right about taking train.

Posted by
32683 posts

The only trains from Heathrow go to Paddington station. No use for Scotland as all Paddington's trains go west and southwest.

Piccadilly Tube to Kings Cross/St Pancras tube station and upstairs into Kings Cross Station - LNER to Scotland.

Posted by
1276 posts

Hi -

As Nigel rightly says best way is take the tube straight through to Kings Cross and pick up your York bound train there. Also as indicated by Nigel you may be catching a train whose final destination is Edinburgh, so make sure you check the ‘calling at’ section of the departure boards to ensure you have the right train/platform.

There is a walk from the tube platform to the main line and a final flight of stairs up onto the main line concourse, which could be a bit of a trial with suitcases, but I’m unsure whether this can be by passed. We’ve never worried about that as, as confirmed backpack wearers we just climb the steps.

The trains north are always pretty busy so I would always book ‘Advance’ tickets for a specific train AND reserve seats at time of booking. If you are coming to Kings Cross straight off the plane at Heathrow, I would allow around four hours. A couple to clear Heathrow and and hour journey on the tube. Plus a bit of ‘wriggle room’ just in case. We make this trip with reasonable frequency as we are heading to Leeds, and have not missed a connection yet. We’ve got to Kings Cross a bit earlier than necessary sometimes, but it’s the lesser of the two evils!

Have a great trip!

Ian

Posted by
713 posts

Ian, does your two hours to get out of Heathrow include going through border control (or immigration or whatever they call it, sorry I can't remember at the moment)? I'd like to think that the new egates mean the horrendous long waits there are a thing of the past - but I'd be cautious about that.

I absolutely agree that taking the Tube to Kings Cross and then walking from that Tube Station to the Kings Cross railway station, is the most direct way, and the cheapest, from Heathrow. I've done the Tube between LHR and London (Earl's Court station), with luggage. It works but there can be a lot of walking involved with all your luggage amid crowds of people, even if you manage to avoid flights of stairs. You could get lucky and hit a less crowded time.

One alternative that removes the "hauling luggage around on the Tube system" factor: take either the Heathrow Express [HEX] or the TfL train from Heathrow to Paddington. Same route, but the TfL train makes some stops along the way and is cheaper, although you can book HEX tix online 90 days in advance for £12 [less for a weekend], tickets are good anytime on the stated day. Then go straight from the train at Paddington to the taxi rank and grab a cab to Kings Cross. Costs more but you aren't wrangling luggage up/down any stairs or on long walks from Tube to train at Kings Cross.

Obviously the risk of booking advanced fare train tickets (other than the advance HEX tix) is that they are for a specific departure time and you can't change them. If you miss that train, your advance tickets are worthless and you have to buy new tickets - at the higher walkup fare. IIRC Laura from the RS office, who often posts here, has written that they don't encourage the purchase of advanced train tickets on the day of arrival by air, due to that risk of delay and loss of money.

The safer option in terms of not missing a pre-booked train departure because of flight/airport delays: get a room at a hotel right at St. Pancras/Kings Cross for the night of your arrival, then catch the train to York the next morning.

You seem to be seasoned and enthusiastic travelers, and I hope you have a wonderful trip!

Posted by
1276 posts

Hi Suz -

Yes, I’m allowing two hours to get off the plane, walk the interminable Heathrow corridors to immigration, get through there, pick my bag up off the carousel and walk a bit more to the tube.

Of course, you must take into account that I’m coming home and that might speed the process up a bit for me. I also used to use the now defunct IRIS retina identifying gates (something of a faff to get the photos done, but if you have time to kill, and we did....) which seemed to work really well, similar in style to the new facial recognition ones. But my experience with these new facial recognition gates is they can be a bit hit and miss, not just at Heathrow either, tried them in Newcastle with ‘mixed’ results.

I book ‘advance’ tickets if we arrive am or early pm so I can allow enough time to be sure of getting to Kings Cross in time to meet the specifically booked train, and as a Yorkshireman, well, let’s just say we have a (completely undeserved imho!) reputation for being ‘careful’ with our money! Interestingly though we arrive back at Heathrow from our next foreign jaunt in the early evening and we decided that staying over and booking a hotel for the night was a more sensible option than cutting it too fine to make a train at Kings Cross and to avoid the risk of being stuck in Leeds station having missed our homeward rail connection. So there is some merit in your argument that staying over on the first night and travelling onwards the day after is better than running the risk of jeopardising your booked tickets in case things don’t go swimmingly at Heathrow.

Ian

Posted by
713 posts

Thanks, Ian. That's interesting. I've never faced the "train to York after landing at Heathrow" scenario and I'm not sure just how I would handle it. At least there are some reasonable options to choose from, to suit a variety of timings and personal travel styles.

Posted by
1276 posts

Hi Suz -

My ‘world record’ for getting home is from Gatwick (ostensibly harder to get to/from than Heathrow) and we went from walking off the plane to walking through our front door in a fraction over five hours. So that’s three trains, one tube and a bit of walking (OK maybe some ungainly sprinting as well, which is unsurprisingly hard to do with a large backpack).. But the stars - and everything else - have to really be aligned to do that!

Ian

Posted by
7633 posts

Too much to see in three weeks and geographically far apart goals.

We did a great 4 week drive tour of S. Wales and England (didn't do London at all). It was wonderful. Originally, we wanted to include Scotland, but the more we planned, the more I could see doing it right means no hurrying.

Here is my travelogue of our trip, perhaps it will help.
28 days in Britain and Celebrity Eclipse home
https://www.cruisecritic.com/memberreviews/memberreview.cfm?EntryID=599139

Also, we wanted to do Cornwall, but decided to do it later.

York, Stratford Upon Avon, Southern Wales and the Cotswolds were awesome. The rest of the trip was great.

When picking lodging, we found B&Bs that had free parking and free breakfasts that saved money and time.