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Christmas in London

Starting this post encouraging others to share intel about London for Christmas.

1.) It might be early November but the windows at Fortum and Mason are already decorated.

2.) Whomever is traveling to London within the next few weeks should check dates for:
Ice skating rinks openings
Charity Santa Runs
When Regent and Oxford streets lights turn on
When the Trafalgar Square Christmas tree is to be delivered.
Find out if Wallace and Gromit will make an appearance on the exterior walls of the Battersea Power Station conversion again
Book Kew Gardens Christmas trail tickets
Hyde Park’s Winter Wonderland dates and hours.
Check to see if the igloos will reappear on the Thames River path

If there over Christmas be aware no public transport and unless staying in an apartment or hotel that serves daily meals be sure to prebook Christmas dinner ( which is served mid day ).

Realize the shopping areas will be crowded and hectic. In my head I’ve often thought ā€œ cattle prod.ā€ Joking.

On my first Christmas in London in the 70’s recall enjoying the stillness. Was fascinated that a metropolitan city could be so quiet. On a second sojourn ( Bill’s only trip and the one he talked about till the day he passed )occurred when we were strolling in Hyde Park. I was wearing cloth antlers ( my sense of humor ). We were walking from the Round Pond near Kensington Palace back towards the Serpentine. An immaculately dressed elderly couple ( camel hair coats ) walked by us. The woman uttered ā€œ bloody brilliant!ā€

I was so proud!

PLEASE share intel, memories, stories of your Christmas holidays in London, England.

EDIT 1: still have and use the biscuit tin ( Elizabeth Tower/Big Ben) to store pennies. Bought it in a street souvenir shop.
EDIT 2: Allan the name of the igloos that float are called Skuna boats.Otherwise there are ( or were igloos) called Coopa Club igloos by Tower Bridge.

Posted by
869 posts

What wonderful memories, especially of your walk in Hyde Park with Bill. Thanks for sharing that, it brought a smile to my face. Sounds like you’re feeling the pull to return at Christmas again. I hope you can make that happen.

Posted by
3858 posts

I’m headed there next week. Here’s what I have for opening dates of Christmas markets:

Christmas in Trafalgar Square: November 9

Southbank Centre Christmas Market: Nov. 3

Christmas By the River at London Bridge City: Nov. 11 (between london bridge and tower bridge)

Greenwich: Nov. 19

Leicester Square: Nov. 5

Carnaby St. SOHO: ā€œAll is Brightā€ lights Nov. 6

Marylebone Village: Nov. 12

Old Spitalfields: Nov. 12

Kingston: Nov. 13

Leadenhall: Nov. 16

Covent Garden: Nov. 12

Hyde Park Winter Wonderland: Nov. 14

Camden Market: Dec. 6

Mayfair: Nov. 27

Kings Cross: Nov. 29

Borough Market: Dec. 1

Greenwich: Xmas lights turned on Nov. 19th (parade 4pm)

Canterbury: Nov. 12th 10 am

Cambridge: Nov. 13th

Oxford: Nov. 22

Bath: Nov. 27

Edited to add: Buckingham Palace Royal Mews Christmas pop-up shop: Nov 14

Windsor Castle: Nov. 27 (Thanks Allan)

Chelsea’s Duke of York Square: Nov. 13 (Thanks Allan)

Posted by
9941 posts

Mustlovedogs….

That’s why my London love remains…. Another return trip. When? Who knows but I’m not done exploring London and environs.

Cheers

Posted by
362 posts

Thank you for starting such a wonderful thread, Claudia! I hope you make it back soon!

Posted by
6 posts

I was in London in mid November 2024 for a week. I was delighted to see the holiday lights in Piccadilly Circus, Fortnum and Mason's holiday windows, Christmas decorations in Covent Garden.

Posted by
460 posts

Christmas in London is incredible! The lights! The bling! The slatherings of decoration and color!

The board members here have excellent recommendations. You can pretty much take them to the bank.

I am only here to add that it is WILDLY busy over the holidays, and if you want any space to breathe or see what’s around you, GET TO THE DESTINATION EARLY.

I’d pick one big tourist destination per day, and hit it first thing in the morning, when it opens. This will apply to Harrod’s, Fortnum and Mason, Borough Market, etc. I’d then have lunch, and go somewhere more open air for my second destination of the day. That way you won’t be quite as harried and cramped.

That said - enjoy! It’s amazing here for Christmas!

Posted by
36001 posts

Later in the afternoon or early evening I'd go on a West End bus (TfL public buses) lights and windows hunt. Sit upstairs and as far to the front as you can get - people will get off and you can move up A bus or a combo the length of Oxford Street, then back and down Regent Street, walk through the Burlington Arcade (be polite to the Beedle), walk around St James's including Pall Mall and St James's Street and the alleys around there for really refined stuff, then back on a bus the length of Piccadilly and along Knightsbridge to Sloane Street. Take in the ethereal lights and decos in Sloane Street, all the way down to Sloane Square (where you can get the tube) or continue west a few streets on Kings Road perhaps as far as Worlds End.

At £1.75 for all the bus you can eat in an hour, maybe 2 or 3 hours - cheap and extremely enjoyable.

Posted by
869 posts

My goodness, this thread is giving me a serious case of wanting to make this our next trip after we go next September! I know I couldn’t make it in the month of December, but maybe November 2027!! So many fun ideas!

Posted by
8099 posts

Headed there in early December for my wife’s annual birthday trip. I will need to check on those igloos and I want to see the new Banksy by the Courts of Justice. Oxford and either Canterbury or Brighton are on the day trips list for this year. We also want to Hampstead Heath to see Kenwood House since it was in the Notting Hill movie. While in that area we’ll stop into two supposedly haunted pubs.

Of course, the weather will determine what we see and do.

Posted by
5463 posts

We leave in 13 days. Carrie already posted a lot of the openings but I didn't see Windsor Castle, it's date is Nov 27th. I don't have a date but I also read a blog to go to Duke of York Square Market in Chelsea. I don't have more Intel than that. We have our tickets for Kew Gardens for 5:15 one of the days. Can anyone advise if anything to do in the day time in Richmond?

Posted by
10640 posts

Can anyone advise if anything to do in the day time in Richmond?

Allan, I went for a walk along the Thames. Thames Walk is really lovely and takes you past a number of beautiful sights, including Ham House, which is worth a visit. Here's a link to more info. https://thamespath.co.uk/

Posted by
20 posts

This is a great thread! I am considering planning an impromptu trip to London for the Christmas festivities with my husband and five year old daughter. It would be our first time to London and first time abroad since our daughter was born.
Given the crowds and festivities, would it be too overwhelming to navigate with our five year old?

We would be looking to be there for the middle to end of the first week of December

Posted by
1125 posts

@Claudia: Thank you for starting this post. I have been to London at Christmas time for the past two years and I am returning again this December, this time with my niece. Your insights have helped me build a great trip.

@Carrie: love the Google Maps, thank you for sharing.

Here are a few other recommendations that were not mentioned in other posts

  • Holiday Musical Performance. Have already been to an advent concert at Westminster Abbey and will be going to a candlelight carol performance at St. Martins this year.
  • Watch Pantomime. I love this tradition and have made the Pantomime at the London Palladium an annual holiday event.
  • High Tea. One of my favorite was a few years ago taking the Brigit's Bakery Grinchmas tour with my friend. She has mobility issues, so this was a perfect way to see the Christmas lights while enjoying a delicious tea. I confess, I took this primarily for the efficiency of combining two events: tea and lights. I was pleasantly surprised on how delicious the food was and while a bit corny, the Grinchmas theme was super fun.
  • Food Tour in the East End.. I love this tour so much that I am taking it again on this trip with my niece. I love spending time at Spitalfields Market (one of the better markets for unique Christmas gifts), eating at Brick Lane, and then spending time Christmas shopping.
  • Borough Market is always fun, but it is especially lovely in the Christmas season and is one of my favorite places for Christmas shopping.
  • Gingerbread City is sponsored by the Museum of Architecture and brings together some of the best architects in the London to create a city entirely of Gingerbread, sugar, and chocolate. If you get a chance to watch the documentary film, it is so funny to see talented professionals struggle with creating their vision in an unfamiliar and entirely edible medium. If you have children, this is a fun place to visit and you can also do a class to make your own creation.
  • Buckingham Palace Tours. Did this a few years ago and it was a wonderful experience to see the inside of the palace during the holidays. It is a small tour (think less than 30 people). The guides are wonderful, we happened to be there a few nights before the employees Christmas party and got to hear stories about the parties in the past and what they were looking forward to that year. The only thing is that Buckingham Palace is sparsely decorated, a contrast for example to Windsor Palace.
Posted by
1921 posts

Hi Christine. I take my daughter most years to see the lights and we usually try to see a show as well. I’d recommend staying somewhere very central with a 5 year old so that you can walk most places. Trying to get on to a Tube or bus in central London can be challenging when it’s super busy. Get up early and get out before the crowds really build. And I guess weekdays would be quieter but we always have to go at the weekend.

Have a look at what shows are on that she’d enjoy. The Snowman is on every year and very Christmassy.

Posted by
460 posts

Allan - we love the market at Duke of York Square, and go most Saturdays. It’s a nice group of stalls next to the playing field outside of the Saatchi Gallery - which is lovely for a quick visit!

The market stalls include produce from the country, baked goods, prepared foods, biltong, pies, cheeses, fudge, etc., and a Maldon oyster stall with a screaming deal: £10 for 6 oysters (they generally start at about £3.50 each anywhere else, and go up from there). So fun to grab a seat and slurp down oysters with a glass of champagne while people watching!

The next bus stop down is at Sloane Square, so it’s just a few minute stroll. If you like shopping, the King’s Road there is loaded with cute boutiques. Right on Sloane Square is the beautiful old Peter Jones (now John Lewis) with (at Christmas) their iconic curtain of fairy lights covering the facade.

I hadn’t heard about the white roses this year. Wow! And thanks!

Posted by
675 posts

For anyone visiting London, in my opinion "Paddington, the Musical" is a must.

Posted by
36001 posts

I was worried when I read Peter Jones (now John Lewis) above. I've always known that it is John Lewis under the skin but also have enjoyed that it is, very Sloane Square, Peter Jones. I would be sad for it to be rebranded.

I've just looked at the JL website and it is still showing as Peter Jones and Partners, sort of a half way house.

I'm also glad, having not been back to Duke of York since Partridges closed their fab shop there, to see that the Saturday market is still going. I thought it would have closed. Yay!

Posted by
460 posts

And while Partidges did close the Duke of York Square location, the place is almost exactly the same inside - now just called the Chelsea Grocer. :-)

Book your flight and go! Impromptu trip last December and it was fabulous, the lights, events, the people! Yes, it was crowded in some areas but people were kind. Book a few restaurants, a theater event, and a museum you haven’t been to in the past. Great advice to plan one thing a day and then enjoy whatever moves you as the day unfolds. Nothing better than strolling the streets in the early evening enjoying the vibe that is decidedly London at Christmas.

Posted by
208 posts

Claudia-
Thanks for the post! I really appreciate your recommendations. It's been bookmarked to use for my trip this Christmas. The excitement is building.

Posted by
9941 posts

Very pleased that other Forum members found value in the post.

Unfortunate we here in the US are dealing with Air Traffic Controllers on strike. As a Teamster I support them.

As a lover of London at Christmas time I’m hopeful the strike will be resolved SOON. As in before Turkey Day.

EDIT 1: Allan as far as Richmond in the day time, there’s a busy High Street. You should consider having tea, coffee, a meal or a pint.

Lots of spots to do that. If you chose to meander about Richmond Park hoping to see the deer then check to see if Petersham nurseries is serving?

If you prefer a quiet pint then walk to the Mitre
( could train to N Sheen and walk from there) to meet the best pub dog, Rudi and Chris the pub owner. https://www.themitretw9.co.uk/

Give Chris my regards and Rudi a belly rub.

Do you have grandchildren? If yes then stop
at the Aligator’s Mouth down a walkway from the
the St Mary Magdalene church. Could get a pint and a good lunch at The Angel and The Crown pub that’s nearby.

Lots of other worthwhile shops and cafes to explore.

Personally I’d train to North Sheen then amble down Manor Road to Sheen Road and turn left. Cross the street. Walk past the Courtlands and be on the lookout for the signed Kings Ride Gate. Follow the path past the cemetary and on into Richmond Park. I usually amble to the Petersham Gate but there are others.

Simply saying Richmond offers a lot.

Posted by
16276 posts

Memories? My aunt worked for a US company in London in the 80's and had a flat on Brompton Square. If you leaned around a bit you could see Harrod's lights when you were on the toilet, lol. ANYway, she invited my ex-husband and me to stay while she was back in the states with her family for Christmas. The vivid memories of that first time were that we landed in a snowstorm at Gatwick on 19 December 1981 on Laker Air from Tampa and were told we were the last plane landing due to weather conditions. It was the day of the Pen-lee Lifeboat Disaster which happened in hurricane force winds off the Cornish coast.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Penlee_lifeboat_disaster

London was blanketed in snow which was a treat for us since we were from Florida. We did manage to fly back home on Laker before they went belly-up the next month.

Either that year or a subsequent year we were in the White Tower at Tower of London on Christmas Eve and the guards had had a little too much Christmas cheer for lunch. There were barely any visitors and they were bored so they followed us around and wanted to talk about every flipping piece of armor in every cabinet, lol. Since they were tipsy they were making horrendous jokes about Henry VIII's armor, etc.

The fuses in the apartment tripped and my ex-husband had to go down to the Midnight Shop at the end of the square and ask them what to do. They were so kind and helpful!

Not that year, but another year we went to have Christmas dinner at an Indian Restaurant on Brompton Road and when we walked in they were playing the BeeGees. After a short while they changed it over to traditional Indian music but we told them they could certainly turn it back to the BeeGees until other customers came in, lol! They laughed, switched and we all sang along!

Except for the ex-husband, I have such fond memories of London at Christmas! Beautiful decorations, cheery people and back in the day, no crowds. THAT has changed, lol!!

Posted by
5463 posts

Looks like Duke of York Square has more than the White Roses. This is what I'd read.

https://dukeofyorksquare.com/whats-on/news/the-12-days-of-christmas

I'm sad about that the Gingerbread City, tickets aren't available until after we leave. We also may do a day trip to Salisbury. We're travelling with my 82 year old mother-in-law and my brother-in-law and his wife. The latter two have never travelled outside of Canada and the US before and were investigating a day trip bus tour that included Stonehenge and Bath. They say the tours are ridiculously expensive and may not do it. I've suggested that if Stonehenge is important that we could go to Salisbury for the day. spend the day. I have my eyes on the Cathedral Tower tour which we missed in 2022 because it was cancelled after QEII passed away. The website says it's a great tour to take on a late November afternoon to see the Christmas lights in Salisbury from above.

We've been on vacation with them before but usually Disney Trips on extended family vacations when all of our kids were young, and then two years ago to Spring Training in Florida. I really have no idea if a European vacation will be their thing or not, but it's been fun planning with them and cautiously advising them about doing too much, such as daytrips to Paris. We didn't tell them not to do it, just suggested it might be a lot. Newbies! ;).

Posted by
363 posts

@Lin C
I'm here now (well, Oxford this week; London next week) and I hadn't heard of "Paddington, the Musical" until I got here. Very disappointed all the shows until the 17th are (not surprisingly) sold out. Maybe on my next visit!

Posted by
9941 posts

I’m adding a memory from nearly 50 years ago.

My friend and I attended a 4pm mass at St Paul’s Follwing the service we walked out to discover snow was falling….I remember grinning from ear to ear. Wonderful Christmas season memory from my London travels.

Posted by
766 posts

Was it dark already?

I'm picturing snowflakes coming down swirling through streetlights.

Posted by
883 posts

Around xmas time it gets dark here about 3.50pm (and the sun doesn't rise till about 8am).

Posted by
36001 posts

even now in early November it is sunset at 16:28 in London and completely dark 5 or 10 minutes later. For all intents and purposes it is actually dark not far off 4.

Coming out after a 4 o'clock mass or Evensong at St Pauls would have been completely dark.

Posted by
766 posts

Does seem like one of those magical moments. Thanks for the image.

Posted by
9941 posts

Carrie, great list.

If you have Nov 8 open do try to see the Lord Mayors Parade. This year the Lord Mayor is a woman.

https://lordmayorsshow.london/. Great history.

I usually tube to Moorgate or Cannon Street and walk over to view the participants as they prepare to march. Caps and ribbons adjusted. Bands warming up, horses hooves being polished, horses being brushed and saddled, etc. Lots of pagentry.

There’s a Cafe Nero by Mansion House that has large windows that I’ve stopped in for some coffee.

Last visit, 2023, got my take away coffee at Rosslyn Coffee.

EDIT: yes Robert it was dark by then. Exactly what you describe is what was occurring. Thus my grinning given I’d never experienced a White Christmas growing up in California.

Posted by
3858 posts
Posted by
766 posts

"...what you describe is what was occurring."

My mental picture is pretty great, the real one must have been wonderful. Thanks for this thread. I've saved for (hopefully) future travel.

Posted by
655 posts

Such a great thread, Claudia. Thanks! We leave for London on the 21st...so just over two weeks away!!!

Thanks for the Richmond question, Allan...I believe we discovered you are there the day before us. (We will be there the 26th; staying in Kew 1 night).

So many wonderful things to do!

Posted by
11255 posts

Thank you for starting this thread. Tomorrow we fly from Lisbon to Manchester to spend a few days in Liverpool. We arrive in London on November 10 and finally go home on November 17, ending an 11 week trip. I tacked Liverpool and England on to our already long trip for a few reasons, but one of them was to experience some holiday cheer with hopefully warmer temperatures than I had on a December Christmas Market trip a couple of years ago. I bought our Christmas at Kew tickets shortly after they went on sale. I’m disappointed to hear that Windsor Castle won’t be decorated early enough for us.

Posted by
20 posts

Thank you for the encouragement Marianne and Helen!
Flights are booked! We will start in strasbourg then head to London for four days.

Thank you again to those on the thread for all the good insight and tips! If there are any more for first time visitors with a 5 year old, I’ll take them all!

Posted by
515 posts

I was in the west end this morning, and went to Liberty's. It has one of the best Christmas shops I've seen, up on the 4th floor. Could be good for presents, or mementos.

Also the windows in Selfridges looked good - would love to see how they look at night.

Posted by
363 posts

Thank you for the information about the Lady Mayor's Show! Planning to attend tomorrow :-)

Posted by
2000 posts

If you go to Fortnum and Mason then swing by Old Bond St and New Bond St. Many of the designers such as Prada, Stella, Gucci etc. have shops here and their windows were very pretty and festive when I was there a couple of years ago.

Posted by
363 posts

Wow, the Lady Mayor's Show (the 3rd female mayor (of 600+) and the first to want to be styled "Lady Mayor", but all the signs still said "Lord Mayor") was fantastic! Got to see her, and the gold carriage, up close. And so many guilds, groups, military marching or on floats. Great fun. Thanks for the suggestion.

Posted by
36001 posts

Laura, thanks so much for posting about the Lady Mayor's Show!!

I'd completely forgotten about it. BBC usually does an end-to-end broadcast of the Show. Thank goodness for streaming, I'm now watching it on BBC iPlayer first thing Sunday morning. Couldn't be there, forgot to watch or tape, so now I get to watch anyway. Lovin' that modern tech...

Posted by
363 posts

@Nigel yes, hooray for streaming! I’ll have to find that also. Would’ve been fun to meet up again, but it was something of a zoo :-)
And I had to rush off to Bermondsey to ring :-)
And get this — one of the people I rang with that afternoon had rung at St Mary-le-Bow for the Lady Mayor ( we heard the bells) — among other things, Grandsire Cinques!

edit: I must’ve misheard him — Bow has only 8 bells! 😬
edit2: I looked up the wrong London "Bow" church on Dove's Guide. Yes, it has 12 bells!
Sorry about the confusion!

Posted by
36001 posts

lovely for you to have heard him ring! I really like the sound of St Mary le Bow. I hadn't twigged that they have 8. Thanks for telling me. Grandsire Major?

Posted by
363 posts

Nigel, I've never heard Grandsire rung on even numbers of bells, but I'm told it can be done :-)

Weird, I could swear he said they rang 'cinques' ... I'll ask him if I see him again.
EDIT: Aha – there are TWO "Bow" churches in the London area. I got mixed up. Of course Mary-le-Bow has 12 bells and is on the route. Yes, they did ring Grandsire Cinques.
Here is a nice write-up about the 12 bells at Mary-le-Bow, including war damage, & possible involvement by Mr Selfridge.
Sorry about the confusion!

I DO see four performances (at least) for the Lady Mayor's Show in central London, including spliced maximus by the College Youths at Cornhill.

I'm so glad I was able to go. The crowds were manageable near the Royal Courts of Justice, where a guard told us she was going in for a bite to eat (?) and some paperwork. She was inside so long, people started drifting away, so I was able to get up close and see the golden carriage.

Edit (Tuesday): I rang with someone today who said they got a photo of the Lady Mayor in her carriage from above (from the bell tower). They were keeping watch to begin ringing the bells right as the carriage passed by the church.

Posted by
363 posts

Just adding a recommendation to check out the Lord/Lady Mayor's Show website. I've been poking around it and, in addition to a lot of interesting information, there are some hilarious bits – great British humor. For example, on this page about the history of the show: "The Lord Mayor’s Show was originally held every year on the day of the Feast of St Simon and St Jude, which as everyone knows is 28 October." šŸ˜‚

Posted by
363 posts

On a whim today I walked across Tower Bridge and, seeing there was no line to go inside, did so, for the first time. Loved walking across the upper part, and learning about the history and engineering involved. What is relevant here is that they have just opened quite a cute Christmas shop in the south tower as you exit from the upper walkways (and before you exit out to the engine house and regular gift shop). I did pretty much all my Christmas shopping today – cute bookmarks, cards, candle holders, and ornaments.

To get to this gift shop you have to have bought admission (Ā£16 for adults), unlike for their general gift shop.

Posted by
3858 posts

Be sure to walk by Annabel’s. I was there today. Pretty impressive. And the windows at Selfridges remind me of the ones at old Marshall Field’s on State Street in Chicago.

St James Park is looking gorgeous with all the Fall colors. The pelicans are still there of course.

Head to Bond Street in the early am to avoid the crowds. Most of the store lights are on.

Fortnum & Mason window displays were smaller than I expected. Nice though.

If you’re in Belgravia be sure to walk by Peggy Porschen’s and Sloane Square.

And don’t forget Covent Garden and Neal’s Yard.

Look up, look down, look all around. Christmas is everywhere.

Posted by
5463 posts

We arrived in London earlier today, on our way in a few minutes to find food and some Christmas lights.

Posted by
655 posts

Allan, thanks for posting. I was just wondering if you'd tell us when you arrived. Looking forward to hearing how it goes. We'll arrive Sat evening.

I think Andrea and Jim head/arrive home today?

Posted by
5463 posts

Jetlag caught up to some of us, we've put the christmas lights off until tomorrow. My wife and I are here with my mother-in-law and my brother-in-law and his wife. We ate at a neighbourhood pub near our apartment in Fulham and came back. Time for bed soon.

Posted by
655 posts

We arrive to Heathrow about 5:50 pm Saturday. I originally thought we'd walk around a bit before bed, but I've been wondering if we'll have any energy for anything other than finding our room once we arrive in London.

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5463 posts

We landed at Heathrow at 12:45 and went through Immigration quickly. We had pre-booked a driver for £105 and arrived at our apartment at 2:40, so you may not have a lot of time for exploring that evening.

Posted by
3858 posts

If you have time for just one department store Christmas shop, I thought Liberty had the best selection of ornaments by far. Selfridges was OK. Harrods was a big disappointment.

Off to Christmas at Kew soon.

Posted by
5463 posts

I can't speak for actually shopping for decorations at Selfridges but it's a must-see for the decorating; inside and out.

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3858 posts

Christmas at Kew is spectacular!!! Not to be missed.

A little tip: When you enter with your timed group, take your time, use the toilets. Let everyone get ahead of you. Then it’s almost like you have the place to yourself.

Many stops along the way for food and toilet breaks.

Posted by
4072 posts

When Carrie wrote this, it reminded me that Selfridges was originally a department store started by an American who had worked at Marshall Field's:

And the windows at Selfridges remind me of the ones at old Marshall Field’s on State Street in Chicago.

Selfridge's was founded by an American, Harry Gordon Selfridge, who was a partner in the Marshall Field's Chicago store.
While at Marshall Field's, Selfridge was the first to promote Christmas sales with the phrase "Only _____ Shopping Days Until Christmas", a catchphrase that was quickly picked up by retailers in other markets.
He was said to have been a genius at advertising, marketing, and self-promotion.
While he ran Marshall Field's, he personally made sure the window decorations at Christmastime drew huge crowds, who couldn't wait to get into the store and buy.

In 1904, Harry opened his own department store called Harry G. Selfridge and Co. in Chicago. However, after only two months he sold the store at a profit, making him a millionaire.
While on a vacation in London with his wife, he became interested in opening a department store there, which he did in 1909.

He made sure Selfridges had the best of everything, including the best window decorations in London, especially at Christmastime.

An excellent article here about him: https://www.chicagotribune.com/2013/03/28/mr-selfridge-the-man-who-invented-retail-therapy/

Several years ago, PBS ran a 10-episode series, ā€œMr. Selfridge,ā€ the British period drama starring Jeremy Piven that was originally an ITV special.
I highly recommend this series. Well-worth watching.

Just a little trivia about the origins of Selfridge's and its connection to Marshall Field’s and the tradition of wowing customers with dazzling Christmas window displays.

Posted by
5463 posts

While he ran Marshall Field's, he personally made sure the window
decorations at Christmastime drew huge crowds, who couldn't wait to
get into the store and buy.

Thanks for the history lesson, that's the kind of stuff I love to learn while on a trip. It was so crowded at the store tonight that I was wondering if it was an anticipated tradition that the store feels obligated to continue, or if the money poured into it pays off.

Posted by
900 posts

Allan, Selfridge’s was owned by the Canadian family, the Westons, for 20+ years until 2021. They also own Holt Renfrew here in Canada.

Posted by
766 posts

Strange coincidence: Frank L. Baum, the writer of the Wizard of Oz books, worked in Chicago and wrote a book about the importance of Window Displays for Department stores.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/L._Frank_Baum

[snip]
Beginning in 1897, he founded and edited a magazine called The Show Window,[23] later known as the Merchants Record and Show Window, which focused on store window displays, retail strategies and visual merchandising. The major department stores of the time created elaborate Christmas time fantasies, using clockwork mechanisms that made people and animals appear to move. The former Show Window magazine is still currently in operation, now known as VMSD magazine[23] (visual merchandising + store design), based in Cincinnati.[24]

In 1900, Baum published a book about window displays in which he stressed the importance of mannequins in drawing customers.[25] He also had to work as a traveling salesman.[26]

Posted by
208 posts

Carrie- thanks for your Christmas at Kew tips! I’ll be there December 27.

Posted by
164 posts

Going slightly off topic there are some interesting facts about Selfridges here.
https://londonist.com/2016/01/secrets-of-selfridges

I worked there when I first came to London and got to see behind the scenes. The basements really were like another world. As mentioned in point 6 of the attached article they were used during the war for all sorts of ā€˜top secret’ activities.

If you do visit a Santa’s grotto, please be nice to the elves:-) I was one at Selfridges for a few weeks. It was just after the grotto opened, at some ridiculously early date in the Autumn. It was just me, 100s of animatronic rabbits and Christmas carols on a loop. Sanity was eroded very quickly!

Posted by
9941 posts

Allan, where have you been so far? Enjoying your stay? If still there:

ā€œLearn the secrets of MI5

This week is your last chance to view MI5: Official Secrets, a free exhibition at the National Archives in Kew which is the result of an unprecedented partnership between the Security Service and the venue.
For the first time, MI5's history goes on public display through original case files, photographs and papers, alongside the real equipment used by spies and spy-catchers. The exhibition has been very popular in recent weeks — and will be even more so in this final week — so a virtual queuing system is in force. Expect to wait before entering the exhibition.ā€œ

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Another secret of Selfridges is that the store was presented with a trophy German gun in 1920. Such guns were unpopular across the country and many were quickly "lost". They were a good idea which rapidly soured.
This one may possibly have survived until WW2 as it was part of the store's war memorial to the 105 members of staff lost in WW1, but was then probably melted down to assist with the WW2 war effort.
That war memorial and a WW2 memorial (to a further 35 staff members lost) have both been destroyed (as far as is known) and replaced with a joint WW1 and WW2 memorial just inside the Orchard Street entrance.

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5463 posts

Allan, where have you been so far? Enjoying your stay?

Claudia, that MI5 exhibit looks awesome. We're at Kew Gardens next week and it would have been great to fit in both on the same day. I'm going to throw it around everyone else and see if there any interest for this weekend.

Enjoying our stay so far, we arrived Monday. Did a tour of Westminter Abbey on Tuesday and the highlight was the Queen's Galleries. Highly Recommend. Wandered up and down Bond, Regent, Oxford, etc. streets in the evening for the lights.

Today we were at the National Portrait Gallery and the British Library. We were planning on going to the Tower of London tomorrow but found out today that part of the White Tower is closed and reopens Friday so we're looking for a new day for that. A few minutes ago I bought tickets for Moulin Rouge, also trying to find time to see Mousetrap. Windsor Castle Friday. Nothing else set in stone yet.

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363 posts

My husband went to the MI5 exhibit (that might have been in August) and said it was excellent.

yes, see it before it closes, if possible!

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3858 posts

I’m not sure which Westminster tour Allan did, but I highly recommend splurging for the Abbey Unlocked tour if you can get tickets. I did the tour this morning. What a treat to be in the abbey before it opens to the public. Max of 12 on the tour. Also, you can take pics up in the Queen’s Galleries, which the public cannot do. Great views up there looking down.

Also, in addition to all the Christmas lights, be sure to get some pics of the lights along the Thames. Some great vantage points for seeing the eye, Elizabeth tower and the parliament building. Down by Westminster pier you can be a nice shot of the pink London eye and the colorful buildings next to it. Then go across the bridge stopping to take pics of the street lights along the bridge with parliament in the background. Then, once across the bridge, you want to see both sides down by the water. The right side you can get parliament, tower, and the bridge, which is green underneath. Then walk across the street to the eye side. You can get parliament, tower, and green bridge from that angle too. Then walk past the eye and turn back and you can get the pink eye on the left with parliament in the background.

That’s enough typing for me. I need to finish my pret sandwich and get back out there.

Sounds like I might run into Allan at Windsor castle tomorrow. The Canadian versus the American. Who will be first in line? -:)

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8521 posts

We’ve been in London for 4 days, and are heading later this morning for Italy, but then will be back for several more days in December. A few notes:

It’s been absolutely bone-chilling here. Rained one morning, but otherwise it’s been 75% humidity and windy, mostly cloudy, and so even mid-40s temperatures feel Arctic. Coming from ski country, where it gets cold and some resorts are open with manmade snow (although no real snow accumulation is happening yet), London’s much colder than Colorado. I’ve got tons of ski long underwear tops and bottoms at home, but didn’t bring any, and got a cheap-ish set at a Uniqlo store this afternoon. My kind-of warmish clothes (half the trip is southern Italy, after all), including thermal vest and raincoat, weren’t working adequately. Bring warmer clothes than you might otherwise expect!

We booked LOTS of performances, including music concerts, plays, and Pantos, months ago. Seats for November and December were rapidly selling out for many things back in June. Things might be hard to get at this point for Christmastime 2025.

Having said that, we discovered the Royal College of Music, a short (but very cold) walk from the Victoria & Albert, Science, and Natural History museums. For Ā£5 apiece, we attended a stunning concert by soon-to-be-professional musicians Wednesday night. It’s the best deal in London! Small venue, great seats and acoustics, and you can’t beat the price!

Well, the London Symphony Orchestra has some free Friday lunchtime concerts at the former St. Luke’s church, which is now a concert venue. And we attended a phenomenal Viola/Violin/Cello concert yesterday … for Ā£14 pp (senior rate). Be careful of extremely slippery leaves in the entrance yard, and hidden branches amongst those leaves. The grounds crew need to address those.

Sunset is essentially 4:00 PM right now, and it’s actually dark by about 4:20. Plan accordingly.

The Uniqlo store yesterday, and the Harrod’s Food Hall a couple days earlier, were very busy. I imagine they will be insanely crowded as Christmas approaches. Plan that accordingly, too!

Haven’t been there yet, but apparently Fleet Street holiday lights were tuned on this week, with a first-time dozen decorated Snoopys (each atop his doghouse) included in the decorations.

Also a first time, and I was there, Leister Square now has an ice rink, ringing the Shakespeare statue. In late morning, nobody was skating, but the ice looked great (freshly Zamboni’d, and did I mention it was cold outside?), and a crowd was wandering through the kind-of cheesy Christmas market stalls and huts surrounding the rink. Think lots ofmulled wine vendors and cheap knock-off souvenirs.

Nigel mentioned light-viewing from a bus (ideally in the front seats, on-top). I hadn’t seen this thread until now, but he’s right, and we’ve already ridden the Number 14 Bus from Piccadilly Circus to/from the Victoria & Albert Museum, passing Fortnum & Mason, The Ritz, Harrod’s, and countless other displays on buildings and streets. Warmer than being on foot, and traffic slowdowns just give you a better opportunity to view the lights!

Then, the Number 88 bus was the way to see Regent Street angel lights ahead and overhead.

A recent e-mail from The Londonist suggested that the Number 139 bus was the best one for maximum views in London, but not every street would be viewable, including Regent Street. I’m planning on a ride on the 139 when we return next month, while clad in that new long underwear.

Hyde Park has a ā€œWinter Wonderland,ā€ which sounds like an amusement park in the cold, but while passing the southern exit just past 10:00 PM two nights ago, there were literally a million people (yep, I counted while the bus was stopped at the red light). I learned that it shuts down at 10:00, and it clearly attracts a lot of folks, cold or not.

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363 posts

That's cool that Snoopy is in the Fleet Street lights! I'll have to tell my family (big Snoopy fans).

We discovered in 2016 that looking at the Christmas lights from the front seats, upstairs, on a bus is the way to go! Warm, eye-level, and you won't get trampled by the crowds or step into traffic while oohing and ahhing :-)

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1921 posts

It has been really cold this week in a way that it rarely is in Southern England. At the weekend it returns to more usual temperatures of around 8-10C. I only got my gloves out for the first time this week.

I’m going to have to take my daughter to see Snoopy!

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883 posts

The weather here has been a lot colder than normal this week- we got some type of arctic blast. It should be back to normal (more like 10C) next week.

If anyone is interested in going to the Royal College of Music, you can also check out their small but fascinating museum- which includes the world's oldest known guitar: https://www.rcm.ac.uk/museum/

It is indeed very dark here and only getting darker for the next month- one of the reasons I don't love this time of year. Tho seeing Snoopy sounds nice!

Winter Wonderland is hugely popular and so busy that they actually shut some of the nearby tube stations to manage the crowds. I personally think it is just ok and not really worth fighting thru masses of people to experience.

Glad to hear you are enjoying your trip!

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5463 posts

@Carrie, you probably won. We arrived in Windsor at 10:00 and went up to the castle at 11:00.

We did a self tour of Westminster. In hindsight the early arrival would have been nice if for nothing else than to be allowed to take photos.

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3858 posts

The met office app is good to check before and during a trip to the UK. I have found it to be fairly accurate over several recent trips. It predicted the cooler than normal temps this week. I was prepared with my long underwear and rain pants.

I appreciated the early sunset time for this trip. I didn’t have to stay up until 10pm to see the lights.

Sorry I missed you Allan. I was first in at 9:45. What a gorgeous day with blue skies. I got a great pic of an Amazon truck in front of the castle. Perhaps delivering another tea set. :-)

The highlight of my day though was those goofy pelicans at St. James park. I just love them!!

Flying back home tomorrow.

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5463 posts

I got a great pic of an Amazon truck in front of the castle.

We saw one too, and had a laugh. Reminded me of the time I saw a Rolls-Royce in a Walmart parking lot in Palm Springs.

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9941 posts

Allan, one time on the 101 Freeway heading North saw a Silver Cloud Rolls. Personalized plates read Luther. Immediately knew who the driver was. Pulled along side the car and glanced over. Sure enough it was Jerry Van Dyke from the TV series Coach.

Often the Rose Parade Grand Marshall rides in RR convertible.

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3858 posts

Apparently, my photos of all the lights and decorations were so enticing that now my sister and mom (who has never traveled outside of the US) are onboard for a London Nov 2026 trip. I guess I will be forced to return to show them the sights. :-)

The suggestion above of a bus ride to see some of the lights will be a great option for my mom, who will be 80 next year.

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2933 posts

Apparently, my photos of all the lights and decorations were so enticing that now my sister and mom (who has never traveled outside of the US) are onboard for a London Nov 2026 trip.

I so hope you get to take them both!

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655 posts

We arrived in London on Sat night. Our first 4 nights are in Sloane Square. Yesterday we walked about 7 miles, almost all outdoors. We did ride the bus back to our hotel. We had a double layer of woolens on but we hadn't taken our windbreakers. Because we were really moving, we survived, but we are used to dry cold, so we were chillier than comfortable. Today we bundled up and I ended up de-layering and re-layering several times (2 layers of wool, travel shirt, and raincoat). However, after a quick bite in the hotel room, we headed back out past Sloane Square for a late stroll (8:45-9:30ish) The Arctic air really kicked in for the last 20 minutes back. It was brutal. We will be heavily bundled for Kew Gardens on Wednesday night. (Bath/Wells for 4 nights after that before returning to London) Tomorrow night we will see Nicola Walker in the Unbelievers.