Please sign in to post.

A Week of London Christmas

London in winter is pitch dark by 4PM, all the better to show off the Christmas lights, which are spectacular. We are four friends who sing together and time December trips to fit our concert schedule. This year we sang our last concert the afternoon of December 14, drove straight to the airport, ate dinner in Delta’s Crown Room at ATL, and were winging our way to LHR at 10:30 PM.

Found a new hotel to try, the Sanctuary House, connected to the Fuller’s Pub with the same name, and it was perfect for us. https://www.sanctuaryhousehotel.co.uk We were about a block from Westminster Abbey and down the street from the St. James tube station. Rooms are pretty, with friendly touches like fluffy robes, a mini-frig, a Nespresso, and shortbread and sparkling water replenished every day. Breakfast in the pub is included, and the menu covers about anything you could want. It’s not a budget property, but was good value for central London. Being so close to the center and having four people to split the fare made taking taxis an easy option. (There was a Premier Inn next door, if you want to take advantage of this location at a lower price point.)

We were in our rooms by 2 PM, collapsed for an hour, then boarded an open top, vintage London bus at 4:45 for a Christmas lights tour, an easy way to see some of the best lights in a short amount of time, and the cold air got us wide awake for that night’s concert. The bus stop was a block off Trafalgar Square, a short walk to St.Martin-in-the-Fields, where we had a quick dinner in the Crypt before our concert - Ex Cathedra: Christmas Music by Candlelight. My London trips are planned around music and theatre, and this was an amazing way to start. St. Martin is a fine venue - great acoustics and top quality performers. Ticket prices are very reasonable, but the space is not large, and tickets sell out. My favorite place to hear music. https://www.stmartin-in-the-fields.org

Tuesday morning we were at the Natural History Museum when it opened, to see the Wildlife Photographer of the Year exhibition. Popped upstairs to see the life-size animated T-Rex in his Christmas sweater before heading to the National Gallery, my favorite museum, with the best museum shops. We covered some of both - focused stops to see some of the best art, and plenty of time in the shops, working through our Christmas lists. Totally forgot we had Sky Garden reservations for the view at 1:45, but the cloud cover was so low I don’t think we would have seen much.

Afternoon tea at Fortnum’s Bar at the Royal Exchange was festive. This is a great way to get the Fortnum’s food experience with a price that won’t choke you on the scones. And there’s a Fortnum & Mason shop where you get a small discount afterward. https://afternoontea.co.uk/uk/london/the-city/the-fortnums-bar-restaurant-at-the-royal-exchange

From the Royal Exchange it’s only a few minutes walk to Leadenhall Market, beautiful, and packed with the after work drinks crowd. We finished our day at the Sondheim Theatre with front row Dress Circle seats for Les Mis. Among the four of us, we’ve probably seen this play 25 times, and it’s still a favorite.

Wednesday was nice enough for a morning walk in St. James Park to see the birds and the palace before our afternoon tickets to the Harry Potter tour at Warner Bros. Studio. I’ve done this twice before with grandsons and took the tube/train/bus to get there. This time we hired a driver, both ways, saving a lot of time, and costing not too much. I booked tour tickets in September, and the earliest available weekday slots were at 2PM, so plan ahead! I think booking your own tickets and hiring a driver is probably much less expensive than going with a Viator arranged tour from London, and you’ll be free to stay as long as you like. Late dinner that night was at Ave Mario in Covent Garden - Neapolitan food in a party atmosphere!

Posted by
1035 posts

Thursday was a slow start on a mucky weather day, but I did get my favorite Christmas sandwich from Pret before we joined our LondonWalks Christmas Tree tour led by enthusiastic Claire. We wound through some of the prettiest streets in Mayfair, going inside Claridges and passing Annabel’s Narnia-themed facade, crossed through Soho to Covent Garden, ending inside the Royal Ballet and Opera. In two organized hours we saw much more than we would ever have found on our own. Even jumping puddles, this was a fun one.

The highlight of our night was Operation Mincemeat at the tiny Fortune Theatre. Based on a true WW2 spy story, this rapid-paced musical (think Hamilton) with five actors covering multiple changing roles, was loads of fun…and will probably take at least one more seeing to catch all the lines. Highly recommend,

Friday the sun finally came out, and we picked that day to spend mostly inside at Westminster Abbey - a wonderful Verger’s Tour, the view from the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries in the rafters, tea and scones in the cafe, Christmas trees in Poet’s Corner, and the lucky timing to hear part of the rehearsal for that night’s long sold out Christmas concert.

For a complete change of venue we took a taxi to Selfridges, where we didn’t last long, in either the crowds at the windows, or the scrum in the Christmas shop. The bus ride down Oxford and Regent streets was much better, and best were our visits to Waterstones (great selections of puzzles and clever small gifts) and Fortnum & Mason (teas, crocks of Stilton, a sack of scones, clotted cream, jam, and other (expensive) treasures! Excellent fish and chips and pies in our Sanctuary House Pub tonight.

I know how crowded downtown London is on holiday Saturdays, so we had a plan to be elsewhere. Also wanted to see a Christmas Panto, and a friend who lived in London for a few years recommended we go to Richmond. At the Richmond Theatre we saw Cinderella, starring Helen George (Call the Midwife) as the Fairy Godmother. My friends had no idea what they were about to experience, but they loved it! There were elaborate sets and costumes, men playing the stepsisters, lots of audience interaction (booing the villains), and plenty of laugh out loud moments. Getting to Richmond was a straight shot from London on the District line, and the town itself is charming. Of course we went to the Ted Lasso shop.

Uber-ed across the Thames for our dinner reservations at The Dove, a historic pub with fine food and a view of the river in Hammersmith. https://www.dovehammersmith.co.uk Another Uber got us to the Hammersmith tube station where we took the District line again, this time all the way to the Tower Hill stop for the Ceremony of the Keys at the Tower of London. It was a beautiful night to see Tower Bridge and the Tower of London all lit up, and the 30 minutes with our Beefeater guide was worth the production of getting the tickets.

On Sunday morning we were back at Westminster Abbey for the fourth Sunday Advent service, then lucky to catch a waiting taxi to our Sunday Roast Lunch reservations at Hawksmoor Seven Dials. Add on their Caesar salad; it’s special! And I think their lemon tart with creme fraiche is even better than the sticky toffee pudding. Walked to Covent Garden to experience the snow blizzard at the big Christmas tree at the top of the hour, then home to our hotel to regroup for tonight.

Posted by
1035 posts

This is our last night in London, and we’re going to the Carols at the Royal Albert Hall. A London family tradition, this is one difficult ticket to get! I think Londoners may buy in the spring as soon as they’re released. I got four good seats in July, in shouting distance, but no two together. There were some no-shows near us, and we could all sit together for the second half. (We probably could have moved together earlier, but didn’t want to risk being pitched from seats we seat-jacked.)

With fifteen performances over six days, featuring the Royal Phil, the Royal Choral Society, the British Imperial Military Band, and the National Youth Choir, this is a spectacle!! Fifty-five hundred people show up to join in the sing-along carols. There is elaborate lighting and it snows! The orchestra starts out in concert attire with the women in festive holiday gowns, then returns after intermission in costumes - flannel pajamas, huge Christmas trees, lighted angel wings, reindeer suits, each section wearing matching attire. The audience is festive in Christmas sweaters and all manner of headpieces. It is so over-the-top it’s hard to imagine. It’s a participatory event and great fun. If there’s any chance you will be in London next December during the six magic days, grab a ticket!

Monday we had an afternoon flight, but we managed to pack up in time to go to the Monday antiques market at Covent Garden on our last sunny day. Still channeling Harry Potter, we watched H P and the Sorcerer’s Stone on our Delta flight home. Landing in ATL at 8:30PM on December 22, isn’t ideal when the presents aren’t wrapped and the Christmas dinner groceries are still at the store, but we had a grand time while it lasted, and I don’t think we could have fit in one more thing! Wishing you Happy Travels in 2026!

Posted by
1693 posts

So fun! Some great ideas such as riding the bus to see the Xmas Lights. Happy New Year!

Posted by
1265 posts

I loved this report. I especially like hearing about the performances and how you organized your days.

Edited to add: Helen George! Yay.

Posted by
3001 posts

This is a really fun trip report! Thanks for writing it.

Posted by
8555 posts

Ruth, thank you for sharing your report. We had 9 nights in London, returning a-week-and-a-half ago, and also attended many varied performances, including one at St. Martin-in-the-Fields. What a fabulous venue, and a working church, at that! We hadn’t pre-ordered seat cushions, and the gent next to us in the pew said that he’d learned the hard way, after many performances, that cushions were essential for a 3-hour Handel’s Messiah, and worth the price. My husband went up front to try to get us cushions, and although there seemed to be a huge number of cushions stacked up behind the attendant, he was told they were all sold out, pre-reserved by people when they booked their tickets. Oh well, 3 hours later, our backsides were OK, without having cushions.

We’d looked at getting Albert Hall Carols tickets back in June, and were surprised that there weren’t two seats left together anywhere, just single seats, so we passed on getting any. I learned this past week that tickets for 2026 went on sale December 26 - so, basically, one year out. Anyone interested should get theirs ASAP - 6 months out is woefully too late!

One other “carols” opportunity of note, that we highly recommend for anyone in London around Christmastime, is at All Souls Langham Place Church. It’s at the north end of Regent Street, where it becomes Portland Place, adjacent to the BBC headquarters (and also the Algerian embassy), and across the street from the very posh Langham Hotel (where we didn’t stay… a bit too rich for our budget), on the border of the Marylebone and Fitzrovia neighborhoods. They’re absolutely free, and were scheduled several times on several days/nights while we were there. I was feeling under the weather the night we’d planned to go, and while we’d planned to get there an hour early, to ensure getting in, my husband was doting on me a bit before he finally headed to All Soul’s, and got there only about a half hour beforehand - around 5PM for a 5:30 service. He said that just as he got in the queue that went down Riding House Street and then curved onto Great Portland Street, an attendant who was counting people in line came by, and said that there were 300 people in front of him. The church held 750, so she said everyone at that point would be getting in without a problem, and the line started moving forward a couple of minutes after that. Without two of us, he would up getting a seat in the front row. There were some songs just performed by the choir, but most were sung by all in attendance (lyrics displayed on a screen), and anyone who didn’t get inside was welcome to see the event on a big screen outside, in the cold, but in a very festive atmosphere. There were a couple of bible readings peppered amongst the singing (Scott said about a 20-voice chorus and a 20-piece orchestra, plus a very engaged choral conductor). Afterwards, they passed out lots of individual mince pies, and Scott brought one back for me - delicious. All Souls has an almost impossibly pointy spire, and was lit up for Christmas, like the rest of London. Their Website has a video, which was more elaborate than the 1-hour event that he attended and I missed - this time. (https://carolservice.com/)

Posted by
1493 posts

Ruth, thanks for sharing your trip report. You definitely made good use of your time. I'm bookmarking for a future holiday trip.

Posted by
10969 posts

What a lovely trip report, Ruth! I love London and I've been there four times, but never around the holidays. So this just makes me want to push for that even more. It sounds like it was a wonderful trip!

Posted by
1039 posts

Yes, thank you for the wonderful Trip Report! Sounds like you had a lovely time. And thank you for the tip on your hotel. It looks very pretty.

Posted by
889 posts

Oh my gosh, Ruth. You had amazing days in London with so much planned and seen! I’m impressed and you wrote it up beautifully. It was great fun to read. Thanks for sharing it all.

Also thanks to Cyn for sharing your holiday experience and tips.

Posted by
9992 posts

Great trip! Stellar report.

London at Christmas is exhausting and exhilarating! Glad you got to experience it.

Does your favorite Pret sandwich include cranberry relish?

Posted by
1035 posts

@Claudia
That would be a YES on the cranberry relish!