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5+ Day Lake Country Itinerary & Where to Base?

Hello! We are a 50s couple planning a trip to the Lake District at the end of May, where we are looking forward to doing quite a bit of hiking along with relaxing and having some good meals. We will have at least 5 days, plus 2 more as we make our way back to London (could stay in the region or go somewhere else enroute). Most likely we will be taking the train from London to ... Kendal (us that the best option?) ... and renting a car for our time in the Lake District to have flexibility.

I'd be so grateful for thoughts on which town to base from -- or whether it's suggested we try a few places for 2 or 3 nights. And any general itinerary suggestions -- what not to miss!

Thanks so much in advance.

Posted by
40 posts

The Lake District has two main train stations- Oxenholme (for Kenal) in the south and Penrith in the north. In the south, Windemere is a very popular base but can also get crowded- there are also less crowded towns around the lake like Bowness, and nearby Coniston Water. In the north, Keswick is beautiful and a great place for a base. You may want to split up the time. If you're feeling up to it, you can hike up England's highest peak, Scafell Pike, which isn't terribly high (about 900m) but is a healthy climb. I've not been up Helvellyn but it's meant to be one of the nicest walks in the Lake District (I believe it was a favourite of Alfred Wainwright, who walked and wrote extensively about the area). You will definitely need a car once you are there. In terms of what not to miss- everywhere you go will be beautiful, especially near the lakes themselves. You can also venture into the Yorkshire Dales, just east of the Lake District, for more beautiful scenery. I recommend Cicerone guides for hiking- they all come with detailed maps and include recommendations on transport and where to eat. You will have a great time!

Posted by
8385 posts

It simply is not true that you need a car to explore the Lake District unless you are going to places well off the normal tourist trail.

At the end of May everywhere will be quite busy, especially if the weather is good, due to it being the late May public holiday.

Bowness is busier than Windermere. We have actually just had the annual figures released of parking tickets issued for infringements in Westmorland and a number of streets in Bowness topped the list, due to the overwhelming demand for spaces. Very high figures, very remunerative for us local tax payers.

Grasmere in particular is more of a village, quite a nice place to stay. Or you could stay over by Ullswater - Pooley Bridge or Glenridding. A lot of good walking over there (especially on the Howtown side of the lake) backed up by the good lake Steamer Service. If you were going towards Ullswater then Penrith is where you would rent a car from.

I suppose you could break it up into 2 or 3 nights Ullswater area then 2 or 3 nights Hawkshead/Coniston area. Another great walking area.

Another nice area to stay in for walking is Buttermere or Loweswater. Not at all off the beaten track, but not that well known for international tourists.

Posted by
84 posts

Thank you both for the very quick and comprehensive replies.

If we can make it work without a car, we would very much like to do that. If that changes the suggestions about where to base or how to break up the trip we would appreciate your thoughts including what areas offer the best in terms of public transportation.

We could conceivably spend all seven days in the lake area across 2 to 3 different locations that could give us access to a mix of hikes.

And I should add suggestions for hikes are also very much appreciated. We are quite avid hikers, so can handle longer and higher elevation trails.

Thanks again. We really appreciate the advice of the Rick Steves network!

Posted by
8385 posts

Grasmere or Ambleside will always work as they have the every 20 minute open top Bowness via Windermere to Grasmere bus, as well as the 555 Lancaster to Keswick service- hourly all year, half hourly on Saturdays and high summer (and being trialled this winter with some extras to be half hourly at times).
From Ambleside you also have the hourly service to Coniston via Hawkshead (now with evening runs) and the hourly (for the first time ever, last Summer) down Langdale to Old Dungeon Ghyll- one of the mecca points of High Fells walking. That has always been two hourly so was quite a change.
Down Ullswater it should be an hourly bus- open tops to Patterdale alternating with the service to Bowness and Windermere over Kirkstone Pass. As I say use that with the steamers and the big surprise of last year- the UB1- a little minibus running from Aira Force to Howtown via Pooley Bridge- an innovative new walkers bus. The last Penrith to Pooley Bridge (not Glenridding) last year was at 8.40pm so connecting with the 5.30pm from Euston. Having said that I would want to be on the 4.30 from Euston for comfort.
So that's 3 workable bases- Ullswater, Coniston and Grasmere/Ambleside.

Buttermere has the basically hourly bus over Honister and Whinlatter. One of many walks from Buttermere is to Inonimate Tarn on Haystacks where Wainwright's ashes are scattered. From Buttermere you also have easy access to the Via Ferrata at Honister Slate Mine, and loads of walks from your front door.

With a car you also have the neighbouring village of Loweswater and the lovely Kirkstile Inn as a base.

In all the ongoing talks about what bus services to restore and fund no-one is even suggesting giving Loweswater a service back. It is basically just the pub and the Church. For the bright lights it's a 4 or 5 mile drive into Cockermouth. But it is as close to undiscovered as the Lake District gets. Buttermere is two hotels, a Church, farm and ice cream parlour- busy as anything by day, quiet as you like by night. Buttermere is over one of three passes (Newlands, Honister or Whinlatter) for evening activities (or 8 miles to Cockermouth) or just drink in the peace of the Lakeland air.

This forum tends not to like changing bases every two or three nights and I'm inclined to agree in this instance. I would choose Grasmere/Ambleside OR Coniston/Hawkshead and you can then walk both areas from either base.
Then a second base at Ullswater or Buttermere/Loweswater. The benefit of Ullswater is that there are a lot of good places to eat in the valley- and that is where a rented car would help you. But ensure you have a nominated driver if you intend to drink when out in the evening. We take DUI seriously here.

Elterwater/Chapel Stile is another idea as a base (maybe a bit better by car than the bus)- again hugely busy by day but quiet by night

Posted by
1370 posts

Hi Kristina -

As ever, can’t fault Stuart’s (isn31c) advice. I can add a little about favourite hikes in the area(s), some strenuous, some less so.

From the Lodore Swiss Hotel (bus from Keswick) climb to Lodore Falls (best viewed immediately after rain) and on reaching the head of the falls head left then right to pick up the ‘Caffel Side’ path to the isolated village/hamlet of Watendlath. Climb right uphill to ultimately descend back into Borrowdale and the village of Rosthwaite where either follow Cumbria Way back or catch the bus in Rosthwaite, both times to return to Keswick.

From Coniston, take the Walna Scar road to EITHER climb to the summit of Brown Pike, follow ridge over Dow Crag summit descending to Goats Hause and climb The Old Man of Coniston, descending via Low Water into Coppermines valley and back to Coniston OR from the Walna Scar road take The Cove path to Goats Water passing along its shore with Dow Crag towering on the far side to climb Goats Hause to reach the Old Man, descend as above or a right turn below Low Water takes you back out to the Walna Scar Road. Alternatively, climb the Old Man via Low Water and follow the ridge round via Swirl How to descend the Prison Band to Levers Water where a right turn along its far shore returns you to Coppermines Valley and thus Coniston.

From Grasmere ascend Helm Crag and ascend up the ridge over Gibson Knott (C2C high level route) to the head of Easdale and return via the C2C lower route back to Grasmere.

Helvellyn is usually climbed from Patterdale/Glenridding via the ‘Hole in the Wall’ (no hole anymore, just two ladder stiles) and across Striding Edge (needs care and will be hellishly busy on a fine day), returning from summit via Swirral Edge and Red Tarn to retrace your outward steps. However the last time I climbed Helvellyn we parked at Dunmail Raise and climbed Raise Beck to cut above Grisedale Tarn and climb to Helvellyn via Dollywaggon Pike and Nethermost Pike, returning on the Wythburn path from the summit almost to the valley bottom, to follow a track, then path back to Dunmail Raise.

Skiddaw, climbed from Keswick via Latrigg and Skiddaw Little Man is a steady if relentless climb and an out and back route, so I much prefer the alternative of taking the bus to Red Mire House (I think I need to double check that) and ascending via Ullock Pike and Carlside to Skiddaw summit and returning to Keswick via Latrigg etc.

Finally an ascent of Catbells is fun, which is why it’s de rigeur in Rick Steves posts! Take the launch (anti clockwise round Derwentwater unless you especially want to see it all) from Keswick to Hawes End and climb the obvious tracks left up Catbells to its summit. You can go further from here over Maiden Moor, High Spy and Dalehead to complete the full circuit of the Newlands Valley, but these days I’m happy enough to climb back down Catbells and follow the footpath to Nichol End Marina and thus to Portinscale and back to Keswick.

Needless to say you need the correct attire and footwear for all these walks and an OS map and compass with a good idea of how to read/use them as well as a guide book. Alfred Wainwright’s ‘Pictorial Guides’ remain the touchstone for most hill walkers, but others are available.

Hope this gives you some food for thought, although I’ve barely sctrached the surface here!

Ian

Posted by
84 posts

Stuart and Ian, THANK YOU! This is all such helpful information and getting us very excited for the trip. Based on the earlier comments we moved our trip to the first half of May (from last) to try to avoid holiday breaks and hopefully have fewer crowds. From what I was reading it didn’t seem like weather would be very different…curious if you both agree? We realize we need to come prepared for both rain or shine regardless.

Posted by
1370 posts

Hi Kristina -

You’re right, I don’t think there will be a massive amount of difference in early as opposed to late May. Myself I’m hitting the trail (Cleveland Way) in mid May, so I’m hoping for decent weather then too. I guess it might be cooler early May and the days are still lengthening, but there will be plenty of daylight well into the evenings.

All that said, the Lake District weather can vary from valley to valley and I’ve been in snow storms in the U.K. as late as early June. The altitude of the peaks, while not huge, means that the weather in the valleys can be much more benign than the tops. So it’s important to be well equipped. A case in point - some years back I set off with Julie to climb Ben Nevis in early September. It was warm, shorts and a t-shirt weather as we set off. At the summit I was wearing every stitch of spare clothing I had and had to beg a spare pair of woollen mittens from Julie. We arrived back at the bottom in shorts and t-shirts again, so don’t get caught out - full body waterproofs, extra layers, hat and gloves….because you never know!

Have a great trip and fingers crossed that the weather is kind for us all!

Ian

Posted by
8385 posts

Yes I'm happy about that. Weather is a total lottery, but on average it doesn't make a significant difference that few weeks. To build slightly on what Ian was saying the number of times I come up or down Dunmail Raise (the A591 just north of Grasmere towards Keswick) and as I cross the old Cumberland/Westmorland border it can literally change seasons or turn rain to shine just like that. It can be uncanny.

And yes I agree it can be totally different weather valley by valley.

Posted by
84 posts

Hello again — turning back to the Lake District part of our itinerary, we have been considering staying in Ullswater but we’re concerned about access to restaurants without having to drive long distances. Stuart, you mentioned in a post above that there are in fact a lot of good places to eat in the Ullswater area if you have a car, which we will. Can you help direct me to where those places are …which towns? Most of what I’m seeing is in the south. We would be looking for mostly casual meals, maybe one or two higher end.

The other hotel we are considering would be in Bowness on Windermere area so closer to more options to get out in the evening we thought.

We also looked at Ambleside, which you also mentioned — and it appealed as being a little less touristy, perhaps — but we somewhat more prefer the other two hotel options so focusing our decision on where to stay now between Ullswater and and the Windermere area location.

At any rate, appreciate recommendations on where we might be able to get out to eat if we do go with the Ullswater option. Thanks, as always.

Posted by
8385 posts

Kristina.

End to end of Ullswater (Pooley Bridge to Patterdale) is only 20 minutes drive- at least in the evening when the day trippers have gone home. Then it's about ten minutes back to the A6 and the motorway at Eamont Bridge from Pooley Bridge.

I would envisage you staying in either Pooley Bridge or Glenridding/Patterdale- but with a car that is not a given.

Starting from Eamont Bridge and working south down valley-
Eamont Bridge- The Beehive Pub,
Tirril- The Queen's Head Pub (Tirril is a lovely quiet village, with a village hall and a very interesting Church across the fields at Barton- The pub has rooms and that could be a good place to stay, away from the crowds),
Pooley Bridge (at the head of Ullswater)- There are three pubs and Granny Dowbekins Cafe (the latter with riverside and bridge views).
Five minutes down the road there is the Brackenrigg pub at Watermillock. That is also another lovely quiet place to stay with amazing lake and valley views. They have a wide range of accommodation, a bar menu, a more formal restaurant and a pizza joint. If you eat in the Restaurant you can book a joint Swim (in their indoor pool) and dine package.
The Royal Hotel, Dockray (turn up the hill at Aira Force towards the A66 Troutbeck (not the other one towards Windermere), half way down the lake, and it's a few minutes drive). Dockray is a little hamlet and could be a nice very quiet place to stay.
At Glenridding (the other main steamer pier village) there are three hotels (between them a whole range of dining options) but up in the village proper and away from where a lot of people get to is the Travellers Rest pub.
Two miles beyond Glenridding is the village of Patterdale with it's eponymous hotel and also a Pub.
Another ten minutes drive up the Kirkstone Pass is the Brotherswater Inn (they also have rooms, but maybe just a bit too far up to stay there).

This isn't a full collection, but shows you the number and range of places there are within what I would call a short drive, all of which can be reached by bus (for others reading this) but some of the more unusual are a deal easier with a car.

For instance if you were staying at Pooley Bridge or Tirril say you could nip down to Askham Hall- a Michelin starred restaurant (just before Lowther Castle). Askham Hall is far beyond my budget and I'm not a Michelin type of person- but it's there.

Posted by
1370 posts

Hi Kristina -

Ambleside, despite appearances, does get madly busy. It’s just up the road from Windermere/Bowness comparatively, at the head of Windermere the lake. As I have discovered to my amazement over the years, for some folk this represents the Lake District in its entirety and they never venture beyond.

I’d be very happy personally to stay in Patterdale or Glenridding at the head of Ullswater, it’s a really good spot with a bit (although not an excess!) of everything and there are more walking routes from there than you can shake a (walking) stick at, so for me, it would be an excellent choice. You can, as Stuart has noted above, catch a bus from Windermere for a scenic drive through the Lakes to reach Patterdale and Glenridding.

Ian