4 nights in Newcastle on Tyne area

I would like to suggest hiring Peter Carney as your guide for your Hadrian’s Wall Day. You won’t regret it. This retired history teacher will tailor the day to your interests and you will have a much greater understanding of what you are looking at. Every penny worth it!

https://www.hadrianswall-walk.com/

If you enjoy mysteries, you might want to check out “Vera”. Which often features Newcastle.

While I suspect your Hadrian’s Wall exploration on Day 3 will involve heading west of Newcastle, there are a couple tremendous sites east of downtown, which could even fit in with your Day 4 Coast exploration itinerary.

At Wallsend there is, literally, the eastern end of where the Wall stood. There are some recently uncovered ruins, and a museum, but like so much of where the Wall once stood, most of what you see is modern, but all worthwhile.

Further east, in the coastal suburb of South Shields, sits the Arbeia Roman Fort and Museum. While there was never an actual Hadrian’s Wall that far east, there were undoubtedly Ancient Roman fortifications and military personnel there 2,000 years ago, supporting that barrier. Now there are modern recreations of what structures you’d have seen back then.

Those helped fill in some of the blanks for me in 2016, the year my husband and I walked the length of the Wall across England, west to east. Public transportation will get you from downtown Newcastle out to Wallsend and South Shields.

Although I prefer not moving accommodation any more than is necessary, on this occasion, I would advise you to cover Durham and Hadrian’s Wall from Newcastle and to stay north for the other half of the trip, otherwise you are going to be doing too much backtracking. The coast (and inland) between Newcastle and Berwick is far more interesting than that south of Newcastle.

If the tides permit, I would visit Holy Island - there is a lovely castle there plus a good short loop walk. Local mead is a tradition.

Alnwick Castle has a great water garden, but the castle itself has been ruined by hoardes of Harry Potter fans. The old station bookshop in Alnwick has a good cafe but is busy. Bamburgh or Dunstanburgh Castles are worthwhile. The long sandy beaches are good for walks.

A day in the Durham area to me would be spent at the Beamish Museum. Durham itself is compact and doesn’t take long to see.

My favourite National Trust property in the country is Cragside near Rothbury - you would need half a day to see the house and gardens. From there, drive north and enjoy lunch or coffee and cake (excellent tiffin) at Ingram Cafe in the Breamish Valley. Stunning spot for a walk or drive up the valley before heading over to the coast.

On the coast, Amble, Warkworth, Alnmouth and St Abbs are all pretty villages.

Northumberland is my favourite county and it’s people are very friendly. I wish I lived closer.

As Americans Washington Old Hall in Washington would be of interest. Ancestral home of the Washington family. It is a National Trust property.
The Angel of the North is nearby
Also the Tanfield Railway is nearby, claimed to be the oldest railway in the world. They operate steam trains

Depending what time you leave Edinburgh on Day 1, you could be pushing it to do both Bamburgh and Alnwick on the same day. Both are large and there is a lot to see. The gardens at Alnwick are definitely worth visiting (designed by the Duchess, they are considered as one of the best contemporary gardens in the world). Alnwick itself is also a very attractive town and worth walking around. Don't miss Barter Books on the old station building which is ENORMOUS! If you have time, the ruins of Warkworth Castle are close by . They were the family home before Alnwick Castle was built.

Save Bamburgh for Day 4 when you explore the coast - I'm assuming this will be the Northumberland coast with its ,long sandy beaches. Park at Craster and walk above the beach to the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle. There is no car access, so you have to walk. It is a very easy walk with the ruins dominating the skyline. Check out safe crossing times for the Holy Island of Lindisfarne and see if that is possible.

Durham is a delightful city with its Norman Cathedral and Castle. Both are well worth visiting. There are also some lovely walkas along the river banks too. Not far away is Escombe with its Saxon Church. You could link this in with a visit to Auckland Castle which was onccew the home of the Biushops of Durham

Hadrian's Wall. Wallsend and Arbeia Roman Fort and Museum have been mentioned. Having been to both, I still think travelling west will give best bang for your bucks. There is so much to see along there and you may need to restrict yourselves. Chesters has the best bath house , Housesteads has the most dramatic position on the wall with views both north and south. Don't miss the latrines (toilets) which are the best preswerved of any and really do indicate how important hygiene was! From Housesteads, you can walk west along the wall to the remains of a milecastle and beyond. This is some of the best walking in England. Just south of Housesteads is Vindolanda, which was a large settlement around the fort. This is one of the best examples of an excavated settlement in Britain. The exhibits are displayed in the very good museum. It also has reconstruction of both the stone and turf walls, which really make you realise just how impressive the stone wall was

The same people who own Vindolanda also have the Roman Army Museum at Greenhead and it is worth trying to include that too.

I have not been there, but I'm interested in Antony Gormley's sculpture Angel of the North. Despite its non-traditional appearance, it is apparently well-liked. He has been widely exhibited in the USA as well. You might watch a few episodes of British female detective "Vera" before your trip, if you haven't already.

The Angel of the North still provkes strong opinions. Some love it, others hate it. I must admit I'm in the latter category... It is easily visible from the A1 as you head to or from Durham. It's only a few minutes detour if you want to park up and see it close to.

I so appreciate you all sharing your knowledge! These are very helpful suggestions.
I will keep checking it for more.
Tamara

In terms of places to stay, the most central area is Grainger Street, between the railway station and Grey's Monuments. Lot of hotels around there however is very much the city centre so can get noisy, especially at weekends.

Quayside is the more picturesque area and is what people think of when they think of Newcastle. Lot of hotels in this area, however a bit disconnected from the city centre, kind of its own ecosystem and more pricey to match. Is also closer to the popular Ouseburn area (never been myself but people rave about its bar scene)

Bit of a wildcard is Jesmond. Slightly out from the city centre but is only a short Metro ride away. One of Newcastle's nicer suburbs, typically home to student life. Quieter and leafier than the city centre, but by no means dead on an evening.

Do you intend to get around by public transport?

We revisited this area last month.

A few suggestions: visit Corbridge Roman town's extensive ruins near the wall and maybe lunch in town at the Black Bull pub. You could combine that with an afternoon in Durham to see the cathedral.

Consider including part of the Borders area - Dryburgh Abbey Hotel is very pleasant and we enjoyed nearby St. Abbs, Tantallon Castle ( the castle is currently fenced off but the castle is in a lovely location), and Smailholm Tower.

We visited Alnwick Castle on a previous visit - loved the gardens including the poison garden, but too much of the castle interior was one of those "pay to check out the ancestral portraits and china" sorts of places. Barter Books and the two ruined castles in the area are worthwhile.

Lindisfarne Abbey is interesting, half a day is enough if you skip the castle.

Day down the coast Including Tynemouth market followed by drinks/food down the Fish Quay (North Shields). Recommend the Ships Cat. All easily accessible on the Metro.

Day nearer to town including Victorian Tunnel tour and Baltic gallery. Head to the rooftop bar for a drink with a view. Cross over the millennium bridge then drinks and food down the Ouseburn. Recommend Tanner's Arms (chill pub, good food), The Cluny (good beers, live music) and Brinkburn Brewery (clue's in the name).

In town, you've got The Stand comedy club. Stacks is great for street food and veers, usually live music. You've got the Theatre Royal if you fancy a show. Good live music venues include O2 academy or O2 at City hall (check what's on).

Lovely parks including Heaton Park and Jesmond Dene if you fancy an afternoon stroll. Learn more about the parks here https://wegotrip.com/en/best-things-to-do-in-newcastle-uk/.

For more lovely drinks, you can take a dander up to the Wylam Brewery. You've also got By The River brew which are both excellent for social drinks between 7-close.