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18 days - fly from the US to Manchester; then York/Hedrain Wall/Lake District & Scotland

Hi everyone, this is my second post following the first, to cover only the above -> top half of England & Scotland

Both my wife and I are traveling. We love hiking, culture/history, museums, castles, OK with big cities ...

Day 1 & 2 - fly into Machester, recuperate, may see Liverpool
Day 3 - either travel to Lake District (how many days do I need?) or York (plan 2 full days)
Then like to head to Edinburgh (plan to spend 2 days)
And spend probably the remaining 12-14 days in Scotland (tentative: Inverness, Stirling, Isle of Skye, Fort Williams, Glen Coe, Oban, Portree, etc)

I have two options to pick up the car:
(a) From Manchester (Day 2) and cover the entire journey self-drive -> best way but I kind of waste the car usage in York & Edinburgh the cities plus potential parking issues? But convenient to visit Hadrian Wall & Lake District
(b) Pick up the car from Edinburgh after covering Machester/York and train to Edinburgh. Drive to Hadrian Wall and Lake Districts before covering Scotland -> but may not be optimum?

Shall I go for A or B? Thank you

Posted by
585 posts

Why not rent in York? There are two Enterprise locations in the city (one at the railway station) and a Europcar location. You could then spend time at Hadrians Wall, Lake District and elsewhere in the far north of England and the Lowlands and then head up to Edinburgh. Easy to drop the car at Edinburgh airport and pick up another for the rest of the trip.

Posted by
1359 posts

If you luck the car up in York
The obvious route is up Wensleydale ,plenty scenic enough
Worth diverting to Ribblehead ,maybe food at the Old Hill Inn then backtracking a mile or so to pick up the minor road that leads to Dentdale ,all top class scenery

Posted by
17564 posts

I have an alternate suggestion if you really want to do some hiking in the Lake District, and visit Hadrians Wall. This is based on what we did a few years back.

We used the HF Holidays country house on Derwentwater (near Keswick) and booked the 3 night/4 day guided walking holiday, which included two days of guided hikes—your choice of 3 hikes each day, from easy to more serious. They provide transport to the trailhead and back.

https://www.hfholidays.co.uk/holidays-and-tours/guided-walking-derwentwater-3?format=pdf&vid=

The lodge is in a beautiful position right on the lake. The rooms and food are excellent, and we truly enjoyed the camaraderie of the other guests ( mostly Brits). You just need to get to Penrith by train from Manchester, and book the taxi from there to the country house. Directions are in their trip notes.

From there we went to Hadrian’s Wall, based at Haltwhistle which we reached by train from Penrith ( one change at Carlisle, if I remember correctly). We had 2 days of hiking along the wall and visiting the Housesteads Roman fort, all by hiking and the local AD 122 bus. Our Band B in Haltwhistle was lovely and the owners—he an Englishman and she a Scot—were delightful and loved to talk. (I may have that reversed, but they were definitely a “mixed couple”.

https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/housesteads-roman-fort-hadrians-wall/

Then we continued east by train to Newcastle and York. But you would probably want to head to Edinburgh at this point. Rent a car when you are ready to leave Edinburgh and tour Scotland. ( We did our hiking in Scotland on a separate trip, and did not rent a car, but it sounds like a car would work best for you in Scotland.).

Just a suggestion on alternate ways of accomplishing your goals.

Posted by
1344 posts

Hi ts -

My twopennorth would be to take the train from Manchester to Penrith, then bus, or if feeling flush, taxi to Keswick for the Lake District. How long in the Lakes? I’ve been hiking up there for almost sixty years and still have plenty left to go at, so you won’t ‘do’ it all in a couple of days. But the great thing about Keswick is there is a ton of hiking straight out of the door and as I’ve mentioned before in other threads one thing you won’t want in Keswick is a car as parking is either non existent or eye wateringly expensive.

Alternatively, take the Transpennine rail service to York direct from Manchester. Again the one thing you won’t need in York is a car and if I persuaded you parking was a nightmare in Keswick, well York will see that and raise it!

That said I think I would try and pick up a car in York for the Scottish leg of your journey. The only way to get round Scotland easily and comprehensively is by car. And it means you can take in Hadrians Wall on the way to or from Edinburgh and not involve backtracking. (My thinking on this is that you return the car back in York and rail back to Manchester - some of the Transpennine trains actually terminate in the airport and I would recommend staying overnight in one of the airport hotels if you have an am or early pm flight departure). Hadrians Wall is best seen in the rugged central ‘Whin Sill’ section as it snakes over the landscape near Once Brewed and the Roman remains of Housesteads (on the wall) and Vindolanda (set back a bit from the wall) are comparatively nearby as is Sycamore Gap of ‘Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves’ fame!

I’m not sure that there’s a heck of a lot in Inverness to detain you. Culloden and Clava Cairns are nearby I guess but the town itself is OK, but nothing remarkable (apologies to the inhabitants of Inverness - I say the same about my own city!). I get the castle and Wallace monument in Stirling though. There’s not a heck of a lot in Glencoe either except a wealth of steep and tough hiking which in good weather would occupy you for days on end. Accommodation in Glencoe is limited, but you may find places in Ballachulish, Onich or definitely in and around Fort William (An Gearasdan locally - means ‘The Garrison’ in Gaelic and is what you’ll see on some road signs together with the anglicised ‘Fort William’).

Skye is very much worth the effort in my view, especially for hikes into and amongst the Black Cuillin, but be warned, this is the preserve of the hardiest of hikers and thrill seekers. If that’s you, you’ll love it but care is advised! The abrasive gabbro rock is very sticky but sharp and will slice lumps off your boot soles (and you definitely need boots in there - do some ‘You Tube research’ - I recommend the channel ‘Scotland’s Mountains/Steaming Boots’ - to see if it’s the sort of terrain that floats your boat).

If you decide there isn’t enough time to visit Skye then the whole west coast of Scotland up into Torridon, Sutherland and Assynt is scenically stunning, although habitation is fairly sparse. In general it’s hard to go wrong in Scotland as far as the scenery goes.

Hope that might have helped in some small way.

Ian

Posted by
1359 posts

Will add that leaving Lancashire and heading to Yorkshire is always a good move

Posted by
30 posts

Thanks, Ian

As I will spend time in Scottish Highlands and presumably would be able to visit plenty of lakes .. would I miss much if I were to skip the Lake District?

Posted by
7943 posts

I don't think we know the month of your trip, and the return home airport. Any drop-off fees for the car?

I asked about month of the year because of crowding in vacation areas. Not just the Edinburgh festival, but when we drove from Manchester to York, i.e. west to east, years ago, we found the going very slow, and traffic often slowed by holiday caravans (some pulled by horses, if I remember correctly-could that be right???)

If you love hiking, I would think you'd want to visit the Lake District. But maybe not in August, when everyone else is there. And if you are renting a giant car, the narrow roads in the Lake District are hard to navigate for Americans used to 11' wide regulated lanes. It also rains a lot in the L.D., but not the summer we were there!

(I haven't driven (on the left side) in England in a very long time.)

Posted by
470 posts

If it was June the horse drawn caravans were probably Gypsies or Travellers going to or from the Appleby Horse Fair
I remember driving down the M6 Motorway and there were illuminated signs warning of horse drawn vehicles on the A66!

Posted by
1344 posts

Hi ts -

You’ll see no lakes in Scotland because they are mostly lochs or lochans, while in the Lakes paradoxically there’s only one lake, Bassenthwaite, with all the others being meres or waters!

Your point is well made though, you’ll see plenty of expanses of water, shall we say, in Scotland. In fact in ‘flow country’ in the far northwest the land and water are more or less divided 50/50!

The nature of the Lakes is different to the Highlands. The Lakes are more pastoral and the hand of man is more evident in terms of farming and/or industry. The Highlands are wilder, more remote and rugged and the hills a notch up from the Lakes.

Time is always your enemy in regard to visiting them both I guess, so maybe the Lakes are best saved for another visit. I assume, like many of us, you travel hopefully and a return visit isn’t entirely out of the question. So much to see, so much to do!

Ian

Posted by
1869 posts

Are you also flying home from Manchester? It is difficult to help you plan the most efficient route without that information.

Posted by
8913 posts

I wanted to chime in about an excellent guide we had at Hadrian's Wall, Peter Carney. Here is the link to his website.
https://www.hadrianswall-walk.com/

My sister and I hired him for the day and he took us to the best sections of the wall to walk and explained to us what we were seeing. He also guided us through Vindolanda which was also excellent. We enjoyed our next few days of walking so much more because of what we learned on that day. He provides transport when he is guiding. The other days we took the local bus AD122 which hits most of the major sites.
https://hadrianswallcountry.co.uk/travel/bus

We took the train to Haltwhistle and stayed at Ashcroft Guest House which I can highly recommend. AD 122 bus stops a block away.
https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Hotel_Review-g616269-d583742-Reviews-Ashcroft_Guest_House-Haltwhistle_Northumberland_England.html

Posted by
2604 posts

Another vote for walking Hadrian’s Wall around Haltwhistle. And a BIG THUMBS UP for Ashcroft Guest House

Posted by
30 posts

Thank you everyone, I am the post originator

We will be flying in and out from Manchester.

May 19 to Jun 4. Thinking of the best city to pick up the rental car; would like to cover York, Edinburgh, Hadrian Wall and the Scottish Highland. Consider skipping the Lake District.

Thanks everyone for your valuable comments

Posted by
8331 posts

If you skip the Lake District, then you would likely be in the Liverpool/Manchester area. Probably best to take the train to York and pickup your rental after your time in York. On your way to Scotland, you could visit Hadrian's Wall (we saw it and the museum near Haltwhistle). Also, Durham is worth a day on your way to Scotland.

Posted by
1869 posts

We will be (COVID willing) taking our tenth trip to the UK in May. I would suggest picking up the rental car at Manchester airport. If you arrive before noon, you might consider detouring slightly (about 40 miles) to the peaks district for your first night instead of staying in Manchester. Haddon Hall would be an interesting first stop - it is near Bakewell and was the location for filming much of the Princess Bride.

Day two, head to Fountains Abbey, then up to Once-Brewed where you can take a short walk on Hadrian's Wall and also visit Vindolanda or Housesteads. After this plot a route using these markers: Luss, Glencoe, Broadford, Shieldaig, Stirling, Kelpies, Edinburgh. airport. This will take you past Loch Lomond, beautiful Glencoe, onto Skye, up past Loch Torridon, and through part of the Cairngorms back down to Edinburgh. Return the car at Edinburgh airport - any "drop-off at a different location fees" will be offset by the savings on city parking. Visit Edinburgh, take the train to York, then the train back to Manchester airport. The total driving distance is about 800 miles - not much spread over two weeks.

If you would like more specifics, send me a PM.

Posted by
4088 posts

I hope I'm not too late to advocate a multi-city airline itinerary. You can fly from Denver to Manchester, probably with one stop, and then home from either of the two big Scottish cities, also with a connection. Using a multi-city search function -- they are plentiful -- the price looks like a couple of hundred dollars more, but you save the cost of ground transport back to your arrival city. More important, you save a day of your vacation. It doesn't matter much which direction you do it, either into Manchester or into (for instance) Edinburgh.