The pedestrianized core historic market area of Sarajevo is called Baščaršija. Mixed in among the trinket and carpet shops and pastry shops are diverse places of worship and artisan workshops and both 'Turkish' and 'Austrian' -influenced stalls that still serve local residents with produce, spices, meat & dairy goods, etc.
Also mixed in with the various smashburger and kebab stands are some gem dining opportunities and shisha bars. I had a great meal at Dveri Restaurant, and only realized on my way out when I saw the front door covered in award stickers that it has been on the top of a lot of lists for many years.
Tables and decor are made from bric-a-brac curated with a tongue placed firmly in cheek. Menu is what we here on the best coast call upscale versions of homecooked comfort dishes, just BiH as home instead of California.
My favorite discovery of this trip, kajmak cheese, makes a great appetizer here along with their special bread, a savory take on a pan of 4 cinnamon rolls that pull apart like monkey bread.
I had a main of veal rolled and stuffed with some more melty cheese and prosciutto and then battered and schnitzeled and then topped with another sauce -- like a steak diane with a gilded lily. Roasted peppers and an odd but delicious potato accompaniment.
Dveri is yet another great example of the RS dictum that you can find special spots in the midst of tourist traps if you put in a little effort.
The waiter I chatted with had excellent English, which he picked up from living for a couple of years in Malaysia.
Reserve ahead, Cash only (BAM preferred but Euros ok) English menu available.