My wife and I and another couple hired Ana Ivica Jakic (+385 91 583 5416) to be our private guide for a tour of Trogir, an old, small island town west of Split. Ana is a native of Trogir and very knowledgeable about the area. Her command of English is good, she is an effective communicator, very nice and friendly, too. The cost of the tour was a very reasonable 100 euros. She recommended several restaurants, and the five of us ate at Don Dino for lunch. Following lunch, we drove into the hills of nearby Kastela to meet Ante and Anita Kuzmanic, the owners and winemakers of Vinarija Kuzmanic, a tiny winery, for a tasting of their wines in the Biblical Garden. It was a delightful experience! The next day Ana took us back up into the hills to Kastel Sikuli, another small winery, for lunch and wine-tasting. The family-run winery has a gorgeous view of the Adriatic coast, and we were treated to the best meal we had in Croatia, indeed one of the best meals that we've ever had! All of the courses were paired with the best wines that we had in Croatia. The cost of the experience was 85 euros per person - not inexpensive - but I would gladly pay the price again.
We also found Trogir to be a gem -- underappreciated and seemingly mostly overlooked by Americans, though not exactly devoid of tourists. It's not a big place, so I'm not sure a guide is really necessary -- we just enjoyed wandering the place, and found what may have been the best Italian food restaurant I've ever had (we greatly enjoyed two dinners there and would have eaten another meal if they had been open for breakfast the day we departed!).
David, do you remember the name of the restaurant?
@Jean, it was "Pizzaria Kristian" at Ul. Blaženog Augustina Kažotića 9, 21220, Trogir. Deep in the old town (roughly right in the middle).
Fresh, home-made pasta, seafood. Reasonable prices, informal, small family-run place with outdoor seating. Gets very busy (understandably) but friendly, attentive service. We spent 2 nights in Trogir, and used it as our base for several towns along the coast west/north of Spilt. We ate dinner there twice and asked if they were open for brunch (alas, they were not). When it was time to leave town after our second night there, I had to drag my moping, sad wife to the car. She got over it (eventually...), but we still talk about the meals there.
Photos on Google: Pizzaria Kristian
Damn, their pasta was really good. "Comfort food."