Prague or Salzburg - which city did you prefer and why?
DH and I are cycling along the Danube from Linz to Budapest in July. Our dilemma is whether to fly into Prague and cycle via Cesky Krumlov or fly into Salzburg and cycle via the lakes district. We generally prefer the countryside and small towns over big cities but will be spending a couple of days in our landing city.
Not being a Sound of Music fan, it's an easy choice for me -- Prague. Bigger than Salzburg, much more history, much more to see. Both cities may be tourist-infested but Prague, being larger, spreads the burden across more acres. A day trip to Salzburg was enough for me, three days in Prague were not. You prefer small towns, but I wouldn't call Salzburg one of those. Also I'd expect Prague has better air connections generally because it's bigger. I don't know a thing about the bike logistics of either place, but Cesky Krumlov would be a bonus.
I prefer smaller towns, quiet, history, and beautiful scenery - just to give you an idea of where I am coming from. Between Prague and Salzburg, I prefer Salzburg. Both are beautiful cities with interesting historic sites, and both can be crowded, but Prague felt more crowded to me. I loved wandering through Salzburg's many squares. Prague I only liked early in the morning before the swarms of crowds woke up. Salzburg felt smaller and quieter to me. Prague probably has better night life-I know the area by my hotel was lively and loud! I preferred night in Salzburg seeing the lit fountains and fortress. I am glad I saw Prague once, but once was enough. Salzburg, I can go to again and again and be happy.
I have been to Prague but I haven't been to Salzburg. Still, in July, I would choose Salzburg in hopes of avoiding the sort of tourist crush Prague has in the summer. Might be a little cooler too.
I have been to both a couple of times...for a big city I do like Prague...but it feels just like that to me...a big city. Lots of history, beautiful, and a lot of tourists. My favorite time there was about 10 years ago, walking on the Charles Bridge and watching the sunrise. That was spectacular. I am not a fan of the food, but it's ok. I love Salzburg and to me it feels more like a small town than it really is. I think it is beautiful and the history is far more than The Sound of Music. It is such a walkable city and the surrounding countryside is stunning. I have been there in summer as well as winter (xmas markets) and the crowds are definitely there, but it did not seem so overwhelming. So... given your preferences I would suggest Salzburg.
Prague and Salzburg are not in the same category. Prague is a big city, Salzburg has a feeling of substantially smaller town. Both are stunningly beautiful, medieval (Prague more). In Salzburg you can see the Alps around. I personally would prefer Prague. If you like beer both have very good one. In Prague it is much cheaper. Bicycling to Cesky Krumlov and into Austria is absolutely scenic with many castles on the way. Don't be intimidated by reports about crowds in Prague. They are in every touristy place, Venice is certainly more crowded. Of course I don't like crowds either, but I always tell myself, well, they are here for reason and then make way around them. So called Golden Royal Way I start walking before 8 am and finish before 10 am. After that, forget it. But you can find uncrowded streets even in Old Town. To have a quiet night don't stay in Old Town or Little Quarters. Stay in New Town or residential neighborhood Vinohrady. Parts of the neighborhood are still in walkable distance or one or two stops by tram or Metro and hotels are cheaper there, too. I think that usually it's cheaper and easier to fly to Prague than Salzburg.
Thank you for your insights. I was hoping your opinions would help make the decision clearer but now I want to go to both cities because they are so different!
Flight connections are much the same, but you are correct that flying to Prague is cheaper. I think we will fly into Prague and with the money saved, we can add a train trip in between Cesky Krumlov and Salzburg, enabling us to see both areas - and avoid the steep cycling over the border to Austria :)
They are very different places, but for me, Prague wins hands down. Views from the Charles Bridge at dusk and at night have got be some of the best in Europe. Salzburg is nice, and I'll be there again in July, but for pure WOW factor, Prague wins.
We did both. Prague to Vienna is an easy train ride and then we went to Salzburg, spent the day and a night. The next day, caught the train from Salzburg to Linz and hired a shuttle to Cesky Krumlov (picked up at airport - CK Shuttle). Cesky Krumlov was beautiful! We spent a day and evening there and caught the Mega bus (cheap and direct) back to Prague. Our trip included other stops too but this is addressing your questions.
We just returned from Prague 2 weeks ago after traveling by train from Budapest to Vienna to Prague.
I was surprised to see that the land from Budapest to Vienna and again from Vienna to Prague is heavy agricultural land, and it looks like much of Arkansas--completely flat. It's the Danube river bottoms.
Prague is a major city, and Salzburg is more of a medium size tourist city. I'd suggest starting your trip in Salzburg.
The first 185 miles toward Vienna should be very good riding and scenery. If you get too bored with the last 150 miles of soybeans, you could easily catch a train into Budapest.
You might want to post a message on the Hungary forum asking where to travel by bicycle north of Budapest. James closely monitors the Hungary forum, and he is a prolific traveler and writer. James may can point you toward some great small towns in the countryside to see.
Salzburg and Prague are both great cities but if I had to pick it would be Prague. Prague is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. CK is very nice too.
We managed to fit both cities/areas into our trip and we're glad we did. With its crowds and tacky souvenir shops, Prague has sort of a Niagara Falls feel to it, but it is a very beautiful city and not that difficult to find quiet niches away from the circus. I loved Cesky Krumlov but cycling there from Prague was frustrating. The Czech Republic boasts of over 4000km of bike paths. No doubt it's true but they're not necessarily well-marked nor is it easy to figure out which are suited to long-distance touring and which are technical mountain bike trails. Plus, it's very hilly.
Cycling from Salzburg through the Salzkammergut was enjoyable. The Austrian cycling routes are sign-posted and well-mapped, including surface conditions, elevation and traffic. The rainy weather might have kept some of the crowds away, but aside from the glut of Mozart shops, I didn't find Salzburg to be touristy.
We spent a similar amount of time in both places. For me, it was enought time in Prague/Cesky Krumlov but I want to see more of Salzburg and the lakes district. Hopefully in better weather so I can hike and boat.
