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Prague - classical music concerts in July

Hello everyone,

My wife and I will be in Prague next week. We're serious classical music aficionados, and we were hoping to attend a concert or two. While we know that buying a ticket to one of the "touristy" concerts is never a problem, we would prefer something more interesting than the standard fare of Smetana's Ma Vlast, Mozart's Eine kleine Nachtmusik, or Straussian waltzes.

One additional consideration: we're not sure if we're going to bring suits and such, so we'd prefer to avoid the most formal venues.

Can anyone point us in the right direction (where we might head once in Prague)? Where we should we head to buy tickets once we're there? We have no problem picking up tickets immediately upon arrival (i.e. in advance).

Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you!

Posted by
873 posts

Touring Prague years ago we were standing in line to buy tickets to see the Jewish cemetery and museum in the Jewish quarter.....someone was handing out leaflets announcing a Gershwin concert of 4 members of the Prague Symphony that was being held in the Jewish synagogue that night....it was very affordable and a wonderful venue to enjoy some beautiful music.

Posted by
3961 posts

George, in addition to Jane's great recommendation we reserved tickets for September at the acclaimed Klementinum, Mirror Chapel. This is more of a "business casual" venue vs. formal. We were excited to secure tickets for our favorite- A. Vivaldi- The Four Seasons. Weather permitting we plan to have a river view dinner before the performance at the highly recommended Hergetova Cihelna Restaurant. It's a short walk over the Charles bridge.
www.pragueclassicalconcerts.com

Posted by
4140 posts

One issue that will be negatively affecting you , is that virtually all mainstream European orchestras are on summer hiatus ,and the musicians are dispersed across the continent , performing in various summer festivals , The real choices don't begin again until September , and even that is a bit on the early side

Posted by
10 posts

Thanks a lot, everyone, for your helpful and prompt feedback! This gives us something to work with. :)

The concert season has also ended here for the summer, so this is unsurprising.

Actually, Janis's idea is very interesting. We'll probably have something business casual for sure. We'll inquire at the hotel or just buy the tickets online. Failing that, we'll check out St. Nicholas Church or the Jewish quarter to see if we can find some Gershwin.

Thanks again, everyone!

Posted by
4601 posts

Adding on to Janis' suggestion, I attended perhaps the same program (or similar) at the Klementinum last fall.

This program is on next week on July 23 (link below), 25, 26, 27, 28.
https://www.pragueticketoffice.com/event/smetana-dvorak-and-vivaldi-in-old-prague-dvorak-symphony-orchestra-prague/2019-07-23-18-00/

The website describes the dress code as casual. You can purchase tickets online for 800 CZK (Rows 1-10 of the venue) or 600 CZK (Rows 11-20.) It's a very small venue, though the rows of seats are flat - not on an incline.

The members of this performing group "are also leading players in the Czech renowned orchestras (Czech Philharmonic Orchestra, Prague Symphony Orchestra, Orchestra of The National Theatre and others)" and were brilliant performers.

Posted by
4140 posts

Important to remember that the performance listed above will be " a chamber cast " i.e. a string quartet , and not a full scale orchestral performance .

Posted by
10 posts

CWsocial,

This could actually be what we're looking for!! Thank you for that.

Quartets are perfectly fine and in fact preferable - it doesn't have to be an entire symphony orchestra (it would probably be undesirable anyway for us, given that we want to travel "light").

Posted by
4140 posts

While there is absolutely nothing to criticize about CWSocial's recommendation , this is precisely the kind of program you were clearly discounting in your OP . Am I missing something , or have you had a change of heart ?

Posted by
10 posts

Steven, sorry for the late reply. You weren't missing anything. We had a brief change of heart, but it actually turned out to be quite disappointing in the end. There really was nothing but the "tourist menu" in Prague, and many of the pieces were also "abridged".

Posted by
4140 posts

Sorry to hear this George , but I'm sure there were enough diversions to make your visit memorable , Prague is a truly lovely city . For the future , I am also loath to pack a suit or dress jacket on my trips , and have found that a dress shirt and tie , and black dress slacks ( travel version - lightweight and machine washable ) work well to keep me presentable in major venues . We are returning at the end of August for the Autumn , and , so far , have tickets in Munich for " Tales of Hoffman " , and " Coppelia " , and " Cabaret " at The Volksoper in Vienna . Keeping an eye out now for what will be on in some of the other ports of call . By the way ,if you arrive or depart from Prague by rail , train announcements are always preceded by the opening measures ( harp ) of Smetana"s " Vyseherad "

Posted by
4517 posts

For the future , I am also loath to pack a suit or dress jacket on my trips , and have found that a dress shirt and tie , and black dress slacks ( travel version - lightweight and machine washable ) work well to keep me presentable in major venues.

Thanks for the clothing advice. Does this apply to both a church venue as well as a fancy place like the Rudolfinum?

I was able to book tickets for the National and Prague symphonies due to links in this thread for late winter (another advantage of just committing to the trip and booking a good price for air tickets as soon as the first discounts show up). It appears that the musical events for the locals by the top Prague companies sell out to subscription holders nearly 8 months in advance.

Aside: considered the opera in Dresden, but the performance that week was an avant-garde production of The Marriage of Figaro, and I've seen enough avant-garde opera productions in the US to pursue them in Europe (where I expect opera to be "done right").

Posted by
4140 posts

This approach has worked well . I travel very lightly and ease of mobility is of paramount importance for my wife and myself . While a jacket would be appropriate , dragging it through a protracted trip for a relatively small number of evenings is unappealing . On the other side of the coin . I think showing up for a performance at The Musikverein in Vienna , or The Palais Garnier in Paris , in jeans and casual attire , is inappropriate and disrespectful of the performers .

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4140 posts

By the way , " Avant Garde " productions ( I do understand to what you are referring ) aren't a one size fits all description . There are certainly some productions that are disappointing , but others that are inspired . Two examples come to mind - The film version of " Tales of Hoffman " ( 1951 ) by Powell and Pressburger ( The Archers ) , and this 2009 production of Strauss and Von Hofmannstahl " Der Rosenkavalier " in Baden - Baden , shifts the time frame from the 18th century world of Maria Theresia to what is essentially fin de siècle Vienna 0f 1900 . This production loses nothing in this reimagination which is truly stunning . If you are interested , it is here - https://youtu.be/WtpqtDt7EeQ This review will shed some light on this - https://capricciomusic.blogspot.com/2013/08/dvd-review-der-rosenkavalier-2009-baden.html

Posted by
10 posts

For those who do want to attend these concerts (I am now in a position to answer my own question!), you can buy tickets on the spot, and they are sold all over central Prague. We liked the Municipal House because it's quite pretty inside (we got balcony seats, which was even nicer). There is also a Via Musica store that sells concert tickets on a quiet street that radiates northeast of the Old Town Square (just to the left of the multi-spire Tyn church). You can buy tickets to concerts there as well. The dress code is very casual. But pay attention to those programs. :)

Posted by
10 posts

Another belated message (apologies if this gets double-posted, there is something wrong with the browser that's preventing my edited message from being posted).

Steven, thanks so much for your message and advice. Prague is so gorgeous (as you know well yourself!) that the disappointing concerts could not put a damper on the whole experience. If you're curious about why we were disappointed, here is a brief synopsis. We attended three concerts: two at churches and one at the Municipal House. The interiors everywhere are stunning, and this is a pleasure in itself. But the programs . . .

Every concert is about 60 minutes in length. That is fine, but they fill and pad it with a hodgepodge of crowd-pleasing pieces that lead to a classic case of over-saturation. Some of the things did not feel appropriate at all. For example, at the Municipal House we were treated to a ballet performance (!) as the orchestra played Eine Kleine Nachtmusik, which was just silly. We are not purists or anything. At a church concert in Venice, the musicians juxtaposed Vivaldi's Four Seasons with Piazzolla's Four Seasons (e.g., Vivaldi's Spring would be followed by Piazzolla's Autumn, etc.), and we thought that it was interesting. But this was just silly.

At the concert at St. Nicholas Church, Ravel's Bolero was performed. This is not really a work intended for a couple of violins and a cello. Ditto Smetana's The Moldau - you need more instruments. Consequently, many of the works were "abridged". Bolero was about 5 minutes in length (usually, it's supposed to be about 15 minutes long), and The Moldau was also reduced to about five minutes. At one of the concerts, they performed all the movements of Eine Kleine Nachtmusik except the second one. You get the idea.

Neither one of us is a trained musician, but I don't think you need to be one to understand that this isn't quite right. I wonder if it was because the audiences just didn't know any better. They clapped between movements, and some of the people had shown up in shorts (in the churches!). I don't mean to sound snobbish, but we'd expected something else. The ticket prices were quite steep too.

This was not a problem with, say, the church concerts in Vienna that we had attended. Those were also about 60 minutes in length, but you heard the works in full. For example, they would perform one of the late string quartets by Mozart and one of the Razumovsky string quartets by Beethoven.

We took the time to go to the Via Musica location in the old square to ask if there were any concerts that offered "complete works" instead of a melee; the answer was no. Must be the time of year.

Posted by
10 posts

Tom,

These are great concerts, but they weren't on when I was in Prague. One of the concerts is in late September, the other is in early 2020. :)

Posted by
4517 posts

George:

Reading more I see that the Church of Saints Simon and Jude has been turned into a music performance venue used by both the Prague Symphony Orchestra and the Prague Chamber Orchestra, so no longer functions as a church.

I just posted my query to make sure that I didn't buy tickets for programs like yours, which I would also find disappointing for those reasons you mentioned. The costs of the best tickets for the main symphonies in Prague is about US$13 for the chamber concerts, and about US$55 for the main halls, which is a good half of the US price for these types of concerts, so not pricey like you experienced.

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10 posts

Tom,

To be clear, at one of the concerts (at the St. Salvator Church), some of the musicians were members of the Prague Symphony Orchestra, if memory serves (that’s what the brochure said anyway). So their technical competence is not in question (as I am not a professional musician, I wouldn’t be able to evaluate it anyway). It was more the butchery/bowdlerization of works that annoyed me. I had the feeling that the programs were put together for a very undiscerning audience. Which they probably were – most of the people there looked like they just wanted to check off another item on the itinerary.

Basically, if you see a 60-minute performance with ten or twelve different works crammed in (and you know that some of them are too long to be crammed into an hourlong performance), well, that’s your telltale sign right there. We knew what we were going into; we just thought, “forget it, we’ll enjoy the acoustics and the beautiful interiors".

The prices were unreasonable, in my opinion. The concert at the Municipal House cost 700 korunas (or maybe even 750) per person. The ones at the St. Nicholas Church in the Old Square set us back 500 korunas per person. By way of comparison, we recently attended a summer concert here in Canada that featured Bohemian classical composers (including Dvorak), and the price was only C$25 per ticket - and it was a proper concert. It tells you all you need to know. :)

It looks like you’re going into this prepared, at a time when you can expect the musical scene in Prague to meet expectations. With us, it was just the folly of doing this in late July. :)

Posted by
4517 posts

Just to follow up a bit on pricing: to see French cellist Gautier Capuçon with the National Symphony in Prague is US$53 with the best seats, but it’s US$147 to see him in Boston with the Philhamonic.

Posted by
10 posts

That's interesting. Looks like Boston is very expensive. It so happens that we saw Capuçon at a concert in Toronto earlier this year (he was performing with Yuja Wang), and the tickets were under C$100 (and certainly well under US$100!) - on the order of C$75, I believe. Of course, an argument can be made that it's more inspiring to listen to him in Prague than in Toronto! :)

Posted by
4140 posts

A comment or two - Not to be pedantic , but it is the Boston Symphony Orchestra ( BSO ) , not Philharmonic . Prices in The States tend to be higher for a number of reasons , but a major influence is the lack of government support for the Arts and Humanities . European countries are far more active in supporting the arts . Also , while European venues , do have more charm , generally speaking , than those in the new world , there are some notable exceptions - Boston Symphony Hall ( 1900 ) has exceptional acoustics , having been modeled on the Musikverein in Vienna , and Carnegie Hall in NYC is among the best , anywhere , both acoustically and the interior architectural design .

Posted by
4517 posts

Because of its very large size the Boston venue may have more ticket price ranges so the top price is not representative. It was the only American appearance of the cellist so that was an easily obtained frame of reference.

I’ve seen a symphony concert in Hong Kong with audible wrong notes. Venue charm and great acoustics are nice but playing the right notes is essential.

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4140 posts

" I’ve seen a symphony concert in Hong Kong with audible wrong notes. Venue charm and great acoustics are nice but playing the right notes is essential. " If you were attending a performance of an avocational group , that would be common . A professional mainstream ensemble makes few such mistakes , but that happens on occasion , even among the best instrumentalists . You would be better served by listening to the performance rather than counting a few " clammed " notes , as those of us who have spent a lifetime as trained musicians would say .

Posted by
4517 posts

Well, it was more like a series of bad notes, misses, and awkward moments. It was the Hong Kong Symphony Orchestra’s 9th season, so a very young group.

They did play a highly spirited version of Butterfly Lovers Concerto which I stumbled upon on CD a couple years later and bought for nostalgic reasons. I’ve never seen this piece recorded by a non-Asian Orchestra.

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4140 posts

A younger ensemble may have certainly been part of the issue , although there are some student orchestras that are frighteningly good , like the Venezuelan " Simon Bolivar Youth Symphony " give this a listen - https://youtu.be/UjNi1dkvTcw That some music doesn't seem to cross regional or national boundaries is fairly common , even in the west . Just one example of many - While most European and American listeners are familiar with " La Mer " , Debussy's famous three movement tone poem depicting the sea , this is another incarnation - " The Sea" ( 1910 ) by the British composer Frank Bridge . I happened on this nearly forty years ago and was entranced . It never really crossed the pond , as much British music did , and I've never seen it programmed here . If you know the Debussy , this will also charm you - https://youtu.be/zHtGXMX4d5o

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4517 posts

Thanks loved the Frank Bridge.

I should have mentioned that not only were all the players in the Hong Kong Symphony under 30, so was the entire audience. It would be interesting for me to go back and listen again. At the time the effects of the Cultural Revolution could still be felt. China wasn’t producing symphony quality musicians.

A quick search and boom, found a Slovak recording of Butterfly Lovers, beloved by Chinese as the first competent western style classical composition by a Chinese composer. It certainly has the Chinese preference for melody over rhythm.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?t=0h0m15s&v=DK3jRo6aTbQ

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4140 posts

That was beautiful , and well written , Thanks for the heads up , Tom