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A day trip to Podebrady

I took a day trip to Podebrady with a group of six friends last weekend. It was an absolutely amazing day out, and I have been recommending it to all of my visitors ever since. Podebrady has won a place in my heart, and I am genuinely surprised that no one had ever told me about it before now.

Firstly, it is really close to Prague - only 50km, so it's a very leisurely 50 minute train journey. Secondly, as soon as you arrive you immediately know you've stumbled on a gem. The train station is exquisite. It is a 1931 masterpiece of Functionalist design, and it's a pure joy to walk around and explore. Then, immediately as you leave the station, you encounter a beautiful manicured parkland, which forms the background the Podebrady spa colonnades. Podebrady is a spa town, with pavilions offering "the waters" at various points. Each of the fonts tastes slightly different, although beware that the water has a high iron content and may have a sulphuric odour. In other words: if it tastes like blood and smells like eggs, it's got to be good for you!

Having ambled through the parkland (or, having taken in a spa treatment if you'd prefer) you'll come to the town centre of Podebrady. It is a charming market square, with plenty of stores offering icecream. Podebrady Castle dates from the 13th century and is positioned between the River Elbe and the town square. The castle contains a small museum dedicated to the town's most famous son, Geroge of Podebrady, who ruled as King of Bohemia between 1458 and 1471. Podebrady is a functioning town, where local people meet, eat and shop, as opposed to city centre Prague or Cesky Krumlov, where tourism has taken over. Therefore, it's interesting to have a look in the shop windows, just to see what a real Czech town looks like.

However, the main event in Podebrady is the River Elbe, on which the town sits. If you're feeling energetic, you can hire a bicycle or some in-line skates and follow the tow-path all along the river; beside the water and shaded by overhanging trees, there is no better place to be on a sunny afternoon. Or if you'd prefer not to travel under your own steam, a small cruise boat plies a course up and down the river. Either way, make sure to stop at a riverside barbecue, where you can sample from fresh grilled trout (90czk) and a beer for 20czk (literally half the price of a beer in Prague).

Best of all, the chances are that you'll be the only English-speaking tourists in Podebrady; we encountered lots of Czechs and some Germans, but no other English-speakers. You'll get the feeling that you're really travelling and experiencing the local culture.

A day in Podebrady will give you a beautiful slice of a verdant Czech idyll. Go there. It's worth it.

Posted by
2636 posts

I would agree, it is a really lovely little town. I went there by car last year with a Czech friend of mine who was doing the driving but I do reckon it is easier by train. The various places to sample the waters are very interesting ,there are little places in the castle area and that stuff was foul. had a lovely meal down by the river, huge plate of ribs with a salad that would have fed 3 people along with a beer for around 150kc. It is a real pleasant place for a stroll with none of the crowds you get in Places like Karlovy vary. I bought some crystal glasses from a shop there at prices a great deal cheaper than you would pay in Prague , mind you it did help having a native Czech speaker with me to help negotiate a price.
For a different travelling experience I would also highly recommend Podebrady.

Posted by
508 posts

I've just added that little burg to my itinerary! Thanks for sharing.

If other travelers have similar recommendations for a more genuine Czech experience, I'd love to hear about them.

Posted by
2636 posts

I like going to the little town of Beroun. nothing special but it has a great micro brewery set in a junk yard that used to be a sugar mill.
You could cycle there from Prague and get the train back, you would pass the more touristy town of Karlstejn with its famous castle. I often take the train to Karlstejn and walk over the hills to Svaty Jan p. Skalou (St John's under the rock) and then to Beroun for a few well deserved beers in Berounsky Medved. I am taking a small walking group over to Prague in August and will be taking then to Karlstejn and then doing the riverside walk along the Berounka river stopping in Sbrsko for refreshments before finishing the walk in Beroun.Lots of interesting little places around like Melnik only about an hour from Prague ,Malada Boloslave home of the Skoda car ,Tabor (which I think I have suggested to you on another thread), Hrusice the home of Josef Lada (illustrator) who did the drawings for the Svejk books by Jaroslav Hasek ( I actually have a tattoo of Svejk on my left arm) and I like heading out to Prohonice Park in the good weather, not a lot of tourists there but plenty of Czech locals.
Public transport in the Czech Republic is very good and very cheap, often you need a combination of trains and buses but it is very easy in my experience

Posted by
508 posts

Thanks for the Beroun and Melnik suggestions. Since I'm cycling to Cesky Krumlov from Prague, what other small towns south of the capital are there that are similarly appealing - and what makes them so?

Posted by
2636 posts

I have not been to many places in the south of the country though I have spent time in the city of Brno to the south east of the country and really loved that place, so different from Prague.Lots of nice countryside around there too, the Dam area just outside the city is brilliant. Benesov is halfway between Prague and Tabor and an interesting little town but more famous for the nearby Konopiste castle ,well hunting lodge of Archduke Franz Ferdinand. Ceske Budovjovice is another small city /large town to the south and I have only been there to visit the Budvar brewery there, but it is a pleasant town and had some interesting street art.

Posted by
57 posts

My husband and I are headed to Prague late September and all the above sounds great! We are interested in hiking and biking. Are there bikes to rent in the small towns like Podebrady and others? Are there other hikes between towns like the one listed above from Karlstejn to Beroun? Thanks!

Posted by
2636 posts

https://mapy.cz/turisticka?planovani-trasy&x=14.1380467&y=49.9586869&z=14&rc=9gS-YxX2gb9gAi.lze&rs=addr&rs=addr&ri=9675611&ri=8862213&mrp=%7B%22c%22%3A22%2C%22tt%22%3A3%7D&mrp=%7B%22c%22%3A22%2C%22tt%22%3A3%7D&rt=&rt=
this map is pretty good for various walk , just move it around to different areas and you should get some nice walks.
I mention Hrusice in one of my post ,when I went there I took the train to Mirosovice U Prahy and walked the mile or so from there to the village of Hrusice,it is a really nice little place with a great pub. You could walk from there back to Mirosovice U Prahy and then to the village of Velke Popovicky where there is the kozel brewery, buses run form there back to Prague.

Posted by
57 posts

Thank you for the map and the info Unclegus! Does the map have a translation for English? I didn't see it anywhere. Also, how do I know if a town is serviced by bus or train? I've always used the train in Western Europe so this is new for me. Thanks!

Posted by
2636 posts

no translation I am afraid.
http://jizdnirady.idnes.cz/vlakyautobusymhdvse/spojeni/
this website will give you access to all the transport options,hopefully I have set it on English version.
Often buses are quicker than trains but I find I need to combine the two to get to some places.The website will give you various options as well as prices.