Prague - Vienna - Budapest

"I understand German is spoken in all three countries"

Not really. Budapest and Prague have not been part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire for a long time. After WWII, there was a time when Hungarians and Czechs had to learn Russian, but again, that was finished a quarter-century ago. Now, the second language in each of these places is definitely English. I encountered a few people in other parts of Hungary (not Budapest) who spoke German but not English, but for the most part, they either spoke English, or Hungarian only. And in Prague and Vienna, almost everyone who has contact with tourist will speak some English. There are English menus at most of the central restaurants in all three cities. However, if you go outside the tourist zones, a menu translator can be very helpful.

While it's certainly polite and helpful to know how to say "please," "thank you," "where's the toilet?" and a few other phrases in each language, don't worry if you can't learn more than this - especially in "triplicate." You will manage just fine with only English. In fact, I found all three, and Prague in particular, to be more "English friendly" than, say, Spain.

If you haven't already, be sure to look at Rick Steves Eastern Europe, as he will have lots of tips that are simpatico with your stated travel goals.

Sharon

I did that combo plus some this past september.

any of the languages i try to learn are so-so. but i probably had the least issues in Austria. My German is limited so i can get through the greetings and such and ask if they speak english, but thats about my limits. Again, no issues in Austria. In Budapest and Prague my attempts were a little less successful. But after a few tries i was able to ask and get my point across. Everyone was really tolerant of my butcher job and they tried their best at english.

as far as where to stay, i will let others give you their choice since i fly solo and am willing to put up with less luxury.

As far as tours and such, i didnt take any other than in Vienna for the Spanish Riding School and in Budapest, the "Hospital in the Rock" since both required guided tours.

One thing in Budapest is that they have paved most if not all of Budapest using these approximately 3 inch cube pavers. Sometimes you will find a pot hole somewhere in the sidewalk, so be aware of where you step. They look pretty, but i think they are a nightmare to maintain.

Sedlec Ossuary in Kutna Hora is an easy ride or walk from the train station. Also the walk into town isn't that bad either if you care to.

happy trails.

Thank you so much Harold. Your answer definitely takes some of the pressure off the language learning challenge. I am assuming that learning these languages is going to be on a par with learning Turkish, which was fun, but again, I only needed one language for my trip to Turkey - and Italy, and Spain, and France...

I do use Rick's books for the "foundation" in my travel planning. He does all of the work so I can plan all of the fun.

Thanks again,

Sharon

Thank you Ray.

It seems I will survive the languages barrier. I think I will just learn about 15 basic words/phrases in each language - mainly for my own comfort level. And I so enjoy the learning experience.

The more I read about each city/area, I think I will probably add a day to each place - still realize I will only be able to scratch the surface.

I like to stay central, in a small hotel or B & B that has someone available on premise all night, and where English is spoken. Again, for my comfort level... All goes back to a less than stellar experience in Lake Titicaca...

Thanks again

Sharon

I've done all three and actually spend about five weeks in Budapest each year. In Magar I can say hello, good morning, good day, good evening, thank you, excuse me, yes, no and "i don't speak Hungarian" as well as the address where I stay in Budapest. The advantage of all of this is it pleases the people that I try. Just that, nothing more; as the majority of Hungarians you come into contact with will speak English far better than you will ever learn the most basic Magar. So don't worry about it at all.

As for your schedule I'm pretty biased, but there is a reason I created an excuse to return to Budapest each year.

0 Depart
1 Arrive Prague
2 Prague
3 Prague
4 Prague
5 Prague to Cesky Krumlov (Bean Shuttle)
6 Cesky Krumlov
7 Cesky Krumlov to Vienna (Bean Shuttle)
8 Vienna
9 Vienna
10 Vienna
11 Vienna and Melk
12 Vienna to Gyor (Pannonhalma Archabbey) (Train)
13 Gyor to Budapest (Train)
14 Budapest
15 Budapest
16 Budapest to Eger (train)
17 Eger to Budapest (train)
18 Budapest
19 Budapest to Szentendre by train, return on the boat (half day outing)
20 Budapest
21 Budapest Home

This schedule has pretty inexpensive transfer costs and pretty short transfers of about 2 hours on average so you spend more time doing the good stuff. Of the three Budapest is the least expensive; Prague appeals most to the younger set and Vienna most to the Museum admirers. If you have more time add time to one city or another after you do a lot of research on each. Check on special events in each city, theater productions, fairs, etc. I can help with Hungary if you are interested..

Each of these towns is pretty easy to self guide. I think Budapest is the most laid back so i think it makes a great end of trip destination. Budapest has an excellent transportation system and the Yellow Trams are the equivalent of Hop on Hop off busses at a fraction of the cost. In Budapest you can rent a perfectly situated apartment for $60 to $75 a night; that's the route I would go.

There is more on Budapest in the RS Hungary Forum. Prague and Vienna are great too. I just haven't spent as much time in Prague or Vienna so I stick to what I know the most about (and enjoy the most).

Gosh, thank you James for taking the time to write out this itinerary. And thank you for your personal experience re the language. I agree with people being pleased that an effort is made to speak their language. I found this to be most true in Turkey and Mexico.

The itinerary you created looks great except that I would have to think differently re traveling. You have suggested 3 one nighters and at my age (excuse?), I prefer to stay in fewer places and take day trips. Packing and unpacking and schlepping isn't my forte anymore, however, Gyor and Eger do sound very enticing.

Food for thought - and research...

Thanks again,

Sharon

Hi Sharon. First of all, don't worry about language. I managed in English and some creative sign language in the supermarket.

Budapest has very interesting museums, so don't short-change it. I stayed at the Mercure Museum Hotel and liked it very much. The room was small (not a problem solo), the breakfast was excellent, the staff were great and they had a spa (included in the price) but I was too busy to use it. It was on the edge of the Jewish Quarter, near a supermarket (great cheap wine) and close to buses and trams and not that far to walk to the center (maybe 20 minutes). I was there in May and there seemed to be lots of people out and about until after midnight, so I was never uneasy walking alone.

As James (the expert on the area) suggests an overnight in Eger during your stay in Budapest, how about leaving your luggage in Budapest and just taking a small overnight bag? Yes, you'll have to pack and change rooms, but you won't have to shlep a suitcase. Maybe you could also check your suitcase in Gyor at the train station for an overnight stay there.

As others have said above, English is widely spoken in all three of these cities, so you will have no problems with communication. If you tried to speak German in Prague or Budapest, I think people would be very confused (and possibly offended).

I can comment best on Vienna. First, late April is my favorite time of year here. Lilacs are blooming as are the fruit trees. Weather will be cool, but pleasant. Aside from the usual sights, I would strongly encourage you to visit the St. Marx Cemetery (Friedhof) at this time, as it is a lilac-lovers paradise. The graves are also hauntingly beautiful from the Biedermeier period; this is also where Mozart is buried. A walk along the Hauptallee at the Prater to see the flowering chesnuts is also worth doing. Don't miss the wisteria tunnel at Schonbrunn either.

A day trip out to the Wachau/Melk/Krems area is a must, especially in spring. The apricot trees (and apple and cherry) will be in blossom. If you are up for a flat 1.5 hour walk along the river, through orchards, let me know and I can provide you the details. For this trip, definitely go on a nice day, take the train to Melk, but move on quickly to enjoy the villages of Spitz, Weissenkirchen and Duernstein, further down river. Take the boat to one of these villages and explore. You can also rent bikes here. When you are done, get on the WL1 bus back to the Krems train station (about 15 minutes) and take the train back to Vienna.

You might also enjoy a walk through the vineyards on the outskirts of Vienna. The 38A bus to Kahlenberg drops you off at a high point above Vienna for a great view. You can then have a nice wander through the vineyards capped off by dinner at a heurigen.

Despite real effort, I could never master more than a few basic pleasantries in Czech, but we had no problems communicating anywhere. A big recommendation in Prague for Dům u velké boty (House at the Big Boot) B&B. The friendliest, nicest family and staff you could ask for. Our room was huge...really. En suite bathroom, cooked to order breakfast. In the embassy district...talk about feeling safe... Ten minute walk to Castle, Charles Bridge. The Main square in Mala Strana is even closer, banks, restuarants, transportation all there. We took a train to Kutna Hora; we were done with the bone chapel in about 10 minutes though we tried very hard to stretch it out. The chapel is an easy walk from the train station; from the chapel the town is accessible by a shuttle ride...the walk is otherwise long and ugly. Don't make our mistake..cough up the couple of $ and ride to town. The town itself was nice enough but won't be calling us back. Like you we love to walk and wander, and few places are as suitable as beautiful Prague. We spent one beautiful spring day amid the lilacs on Petrin Hill...a nice respite from our usual hectic shchlep and sightsee pattern. In Prague, try a roasted pork knuckle for dinner somewhere...huge portion, very tasty. Knedlicky on the side..or on top or underneath...they will be somewhere on just about any dish yo get.You may consider Cesky K en route to Vienna rather than as a daytrip returning to Prague. We spent two nights in Cesky K and stayed at the Hotel Konvice...nice, convenient, very large breakfast buffet. We trained from Prague to CK. Our next destination was Salzburg and we took the ckshuttle from CK to Linz where we boarded a train. You could train from Linz to Vienna or CKshuttle straight from Cesky to Vienna. The shuttle can be arranged through your hotel or the TI. This company came to the hotel door on time, Insisted on carrying our bags to his waiting van in the square, and provided a pleasant connection in a spotless, late model Van. The young driver was personable and friendly. Enjoy your trip. I rank Prague right up with Paris as far as most beautiful cities I have visited.

Thank you Emily. I have seen some of your informative posts and appreciate those and your reply to me. When I was reading about the languages, I thought that I read that German could be understood in each country and so was lamenting I didn't know German. I certainly would not want to offend anyone - thank you for telling me that. One of the reasons I like to learn at least a bit of the language of the country I am in is that I think it shows respect - it is such an important part of the whole adventure for me.

Lilacs - what a gift!!! I grew up in Eastern Oregon and in the spring the whole town would smell of lilacs. Also we had the cherry blossoms - am delighted to hear about the apricot and cherry blossoms. St. Marx Cemetery - and a visit to Mozart's gravesite are very high on my list.

The Wachau/Melk/Krems day is definitely on my list - and I am absolutely up for a 1 1/2 hour walk. Would appreciate any information you can provide. I usually walk about 8 hours a day - one thing leads to another and, all of a sudden it has been a full day of exploration and discovery.

Thanks again,

Sharon

I found a few German phrases helpful in 1996 when staying in private homes in these countries. It did not much come up when staying in hotels in the same region in 2012. I remember one woman in a Benesov hotel asking if I understood German, because she was more used to receiving German visitors, but her English was actually fine. Even with people who seem to speak English, do make an effort to speak clearly and simply. I recall a Prague hotel receptionist whose answer to everything seemed to be "no," but I'm not sure she always understood the questions. See also http://www.ricksteves.com/travel-tips/sightseeing/language-barrier.

I do not live in a city with a subway system and I'm all thumbs when I go to San Francisco and New York. However, I found the subways in Prague and Berlin to be the most user friendly I've seen, and I don't even speak the language.
Cesky Krumlov: probably the most enchanting village I've seen in Europe after 15 trips. Cameras are mandatory!
Budapest: #1 on my "places to return" list. Spent way too little time there and simply didn't realize I'd fall in love with this gem of a city.
I don't remember having trouble communicating in Prague or Budapest. The only time I had difficulty communicating in Europe was in Spain. I don't speak Spanish and they seldom speak English, even in the major cities.

Sharon, I do understand the issue of the one night stays. Cesky Krumlov can be an overnight out of Prague. Just take an overnight bag. You can also do it as a day trip, but its so much better as an overnight. Gyor and Pannonhalma can be visited as a day trip out of Budapest and Eger can be an overnight out of Budapest; just take an overnight bag and leave the rest with the hotel desk or keep your apartment in Budapest. When you get to planning Budapest let me know and we can work out a nice trip.

Thank you Laura and Kat,

I appreciate all of the support from travelers re the language. I have six months before I leave so from what everyone has said, I should be fine learning the very basics.

I plan to spend two days and one night in Cesky Krumlov on the way to Vienna. The Bean Shuttle that James recommended makes that stop very accessible.

Will be arriving in Prague April 29, the day before the Witches Night which I think will be a lot of fun. Trip is starting to come together - am now researching lodging. Am going to check out "the house at the big boot" in Prague that Denny recommended. Their website is under construction at the moment. Will check with James re staying in Budapest. Any and all recommendations welcome - I like B & B's or small hotels, centrally located - all local, no chains. I prefer staff available on site and don't stay in apartments when traveling alone.

Thanks again,

Sharon

Thanks James.

I have locked in arrival and departure - am just starting to work on the next set of "bones", which is lodging. Also, I am going to spend the night in CK - the Bean Shuttle seems a wonderful mode of transportation. Thank you.

I will 5 or 6 days in Budapest - am considering day trips to Gyor and Szentendre. I will look into the overnight in Eger - that research will start once I have reserved rooms.

Do you have recommendations on lodging in Budapest - B & B, small hotel, centrally located. Earlier you mentioned staying in an apartment. When traveling alone, I prefer to have more people contact than an apartment provides, unless the apartment has a lobby desk that is staffed.

Thank you for your offer to help plan - I do appreciate it.

Sharon

I generally don't recommend hotels because I just haven't stayed in enough to be an authority. This one always gets great reviews from people I have met that have stayed in it and I love the location: ; http://www.wombats-hostels.com/budapest/

The zone you want to stay in is like this: On Google Maps find an intersection On Andrassy ut called the Oktogon. Now draw a line from the Oktogon down the center of Andrassy and on to the river. Stay one block above to three blocks below that line.

Once you know the zone you can put Hostel in the search bar and see the places in the zone.

Thank you James. This will really help in my lodging research. Will be back in touch with day trip/overnight questions once I research all of the information you have given me. I am already beginning to feel right at home!

Sharon

No problem. When you find accommodations that you think sound good, send me the name and or address and if I know anything about the neighborhood I will let you know.

Here are the details for one of my favorite walks in the Wachau when the apricot trees are blooming:

• Take the train from Vienna to Krems (http://www.oebb.at/en/index.jsp for schedules)
• From Krems, take the WL2 bus (it actually looks more like a large van); the bus is timed with the train's arrival
• Get off the WL2 bus at Rossatz Kirche (http://www.donau.com/fileadmin/user_upload/Bilder_und_PDFs/Informieren_und_service/Anreise/Fahrplan-WL2.pdf for the schedule)
• Follow the red and blue path on the second/bottom map on the link so that you walk over towards Rossatzbach; admire Duernstein across the river and then walk back towards St. Lorenz (stay on the paths, not the road). This is the link for the walking trails - http://www.marillenmeile.at/index.php?id=9
• Take the small ferry across the river from St. Lorenz to Weissenkirchen.
• Have a lovely lunch in Weissenkirchen.
• Take the WL1 bus back to the Krems train station.

Thank you Emily. I will definitely do that. I have noted your other recommendations also.

I have made arrangements to stay at the Pension Suzanne so now can start putting together a general itinerary for my visit to Vienna - the fun research!

Thanks again,

Sharon

@ Sharon...On using German now in Budapest and Prague, that depends. When I first got to Prague 40 years ago, ie, in the cold war days, I used German everywhere, at the hostel, train station, border check, for the mandatory currency exchange, food stores, restaurants, city tour, etc. No problem at all. It was expected.

Fast forward to now, English has basically replaced German as the second language in Prague. . In Budapest my visits are much more recent, 2010 and this year. English will do fine. You'll see that at the train station Keleti pu. Chances are that if you address young Hungarians, their English is good enough but if it isn't, then use German. Those older Hungarians may very well speak German better than their English. I used both in Budapest. Those eating establishments with German menus I used German

@Fred is absolutely correct, but for fun:

Languages in Hungary could be a life time study. I may be a little off here, but this is what I have gathered over the years.

After the Magyar conquest I am guessing some early form of Magyar was spoken. The ottoman invasion didn’t seem to leave much of a lasting impression but after the Austrian conquest nobility and all those who were well to do spoke German; and a great many were in fact ethnically German. Many spoke no Magyar at all. German was also the language heritage and in use in the Saxon communities in what is now Transylvania.

When the nationalist movement started in the 1800’s Magyar began replacing the German and by the time of the Austro-Hungarian Empire Magyar was once again well accepted in all classes; but German was still common due I guess to proximity.

Then came independent Hungary after WWI. My impression is that by this time German was becoming much less used; especially so given that Hungary lost Transylvania.

Soviet occupation came with a requirement that Russian be learned. Most of those who went through school between 1948 and fall of the Soviet Union will be somewhat literate in Russian.

These days almost everyone you meet under the age of 40 will speak some English; if not totally bilingual.

So……….
Magyar: everywhere,
English: most under 40 and service industry folks,
Russian: most older folks,
German: a lot of folks as you might expect in any European country.
Yiddish and or Hebrew: Maybe a few thousand in Budapest. I hear one or the other from time to time when visiting.

@ Sharon....which ever language you choose to use as a back-up language, English or German, in Prague and Budapest you'll not encounter any problems. Obviously, you can expect the staff at Keleti pu ticket office to speak English since the instructions posted along the walls are all in English...plain to see. . Maybe the personnel there also do speak German, I didn't ask, since every other tourist spoke English at the counter. If those English instruction signs had not been there, I would have asked if they spoke German.

Forty years ago arriving at the Prague train station from Nürnberg, I saw a multi-lingual sign directing you to the exchange counter written in native Czech, Russian, and German...no English obviously. Well, it's safe to bet that if such a sign is still there...highy unlikely...Russian would be dropped off and replaced by English.

Instead of Hungary, you might want to consider a trip to Magyarország.

I hope you have a wonderful time. You might have noticed that I sort of like the place. Make sure you post your impressions (good and bad) when you return. Always helps.

Thank you James and Fred. I appreciate your wit and wisdom.

I just received Rick's books for Prague, Vienna and Budapest - will start devouring them after the holidays and incorporating tips from this site. I have my flight and lodging reservations locked in - with some suggestions from this site. Thank you. For me, I think they are excellent choices.

Prague Dum U Velke Boty (thank you Dennis)
Cesky Kumlov Pension Nostalgie
Vienna Pension Suzanne (thank you Emily)
Budapest Kapital Inn

Hi,

You're welcome. In the early years of this century a good friend of mine (an EU citizen) taught English for Berlitz in Budapest. He told me oftentimes during the year and a half or so living in Budapest he had to ask strangers in the streets ie, for directions, information, etc in English. With older Hungarians, (past 40), they invariably asked my anglophone friend if he spoke German in German because these Hungarians felt their English was not up to it or had no English language background. Unfortunately, my friend had to them he didn't.

Bottom line....you'll see numerous shops and restaurants in Budapest with "welcome" signs in German and English along with their menus.

@Sharon; since I don't stay in hotels any longer I have to rely on reports for what is good and not so good. Please write and tell me your impressions of the Kapital inn. A little far out but what looks to be a lovely neighborhood and just a couple of minutes from the M1 metro which will take you to 75% of what is interesting, The River is at one end and the Park and Bath House at the other and you can make connections by Tram to just about every place else Research the M1 metro as it has an interesting history and its a cute fun metro line that play Mario Brothers music when the doors close. Get a travel card to make the trip more efficient.

Since you are staying at very near Vörösmarty utca you will also be pretty close to one of my favorite restaurants. This is a place rarely visited by tourists, sort of an upscale venue that caters to well to do Hungarians http://www.haxen.hu/. You will be very near a really lovely part of Andrassy ut. Remember that there is a Vorosmarty ter (square) stop on the M1 and a Vorosmarty utca (street) stop on the M1. One is where your accommodations are the other is the center of the tourist district and the end stop of the M1 line.

And now I stop because I have been told that I am too long winded I don't really agree, but its hard to argue with people who are set in their ways. Speaking of arguing do you realize how many people don't really understand the true definition of Arguing? Its an important tool that ..................................... I know, I should shut up. But let me ask you. Do you think its rude to as a person to shut up or is it a reflections of .........................................