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how much is too much?

We are planning a Croatia trip for two 79 yr old women in April. We know that it can still be rainy but we are from Seattle so rain not an issue. We will likely have about 11-13 days in Croatia. We are not beach goers and more interested in history, people and how they live, food, ancient buildings and an interesting shops. A bit of wine never hurts, either.

Our original plan was to fly into Dubrovnik. And work our way up to Split via Mostar and an island or two. We hoped to get up as far a NP Krka from Split. And Sibernik and Trogir using bus or drivers. But after researching more and learning about other areas north of Split, we are re-thinking the itinerary. It is so hard to choose from so many wonderful places. We do not want to be hopping from place to place so would like to have 2- 3 bases and do exploring from those.

Is there any relatively simple way to get to Split or to Dubrovnik from Istria area. Pula has flights but nothing direct and range from 4-8 hrs. We had not planned on renting a car but is that the only way to do it, if we wanted to see Plitvice, Rovinj and Istria area in general?

It seems we either stay to the north and maybe get as far down as Split. Or we start in Dubrovnik and end in Split via Mostar. This is likely our only trip to Croatia. We will still travel but Croatia sounds a bit more challenging at our age and we can save the "easy" places for our 80"s.

As far as driving, I drove in Sardinia and in Puglia about 2 year ago, and did fine there. Anyone know how Croatia would compare in terms of difficulty with traffic in areas other than the larger cities? I do not want to try that or deal with parking. Overall, I would prefer not having a car but open to the idea.

I know that many of you will have great insight into what will give us the best feel for the country and the people. I expect to hear that we need to limit our locations. But which locations would be the best to maximize our experience? And thank you for any suggestions.

Posted by
6186 posts

Our family goes to Croatia every April for nearly 20 years now.

Either you do the north or the south, as you have already determined. You have also correctly determined that if you do the north, you will need a car to see things properly. The roads in Croatia are better than the US, in my opinion. Highways are toll roads and well maintained. You cannot even begin to compare them to the roads in Puglia. Parking is also easy - they have parking machines that generate a ticket for you to put in your windshield in most places. The machines normally switch to English. Driving in the northern part of the Croatia is a no-brainer.

Pula is my least favorite city in Istria. The arena is fantastic, but that is all. Do not stay there and do not plan more than an afternoon.

Personally, I think that the south is "easier" than the north as it has more tourism infrastructure. It would be a piece of cake to take an organized tour of the south and include Mostar. The north is more DIY.

Posted by
27256 posts

Julienk
I’ve made several trips to Croatia, mostly in the south, so I can’t say the north or the south is what you should do. Emily is one on the forum that I have quite a bit of trust in, so give her words some extra consideration. I am absolutely no expert on this.

If you stick to the south and Mostar, then with 11 days you can see the small places and the big tourist hubs. https://maps.app.goo.gl/YsZi5rpNFATFCLkRA

Split for 4 nights. One day will be a day trip out of Split giving you 2.5 days to see Split proper.

The drive to Mostar

  • Omiš: First the dramatic setting is impressive, then with a guide you will find a lot more that is impressive.
  • Kravic Falls: Might be a little cool for the swimming but a good place to stop for lunch and see the falls. Lovely place.

End Mostar: The time driving was about 3:30. The longest stretch was about 90 minutes and with the sightseeing time, maybe a total of 7 hours. A good day. 3 nights in Mostar. It’s a lovely city when it’s not too crowded and I suspect April will be nice in that regard. Three nights will give you 1 day for a day trip out of Mostar and 1.5 days to see the city.

The drive to Dubrovnik

  • Blagaj Tekke: Do more than the outside, do the tour.
  • Počitelj: Again, the drama of the location. The vendors at the base of the town, the ancient mosque and the fortress above. But you will need some planning to reach it all.
  • Terra Madre Winery: There are a number to choose from along the path to Dubrovnik. This one is just my experience. Beautiful setting, well done tasting. But it’s a relatively new winery so it has that feel about it
  • Ston: The town is interesting, but if you do stop it’s for the oyster tour. If you like oysters, that is?

End Dubrovnik: The time of driving was about 3:30. The longest stretch was about 60 minutes and with sightseeing time, maybe a total of 7 hours. A good day again. 4 nights in Dubrovnik. One day will be a day trip out of Dubrovnik giving you 2.5 days to see Split proper.

Then there is what I would do. Which is everything above up until Mostar. I would spend two nights in Mostar then take the train to Sarajevo for two nights. To be so close and to miss Sarajevo would tug at my heart too much. I have been getting there almost every year for a number of years and I don’t get tired yet. Then return to Mostar for 2 more nights and then head on to Dubrovnik. Sorry, but adds 3 nights to your trip. If that were an issue for me I would pull one night out of Mostar and one out of Dubrovnik and make it work.

Here is the overreaching problem with my plan in general. You can’t do this on public transportation. Your options are private transfers or renting a car. Emily says renting, driving, parking is easy in the north; don’t know about the south. And G-d bless her for doing it. I won’t. Just not my temperament for an enjoyable holiday. I prefer to look out the window and not think. I don’t want to drive around looking for parking in places where it’s sort of informal and negotiated and I don’t speak the language (I have observed what my transfers do). I’m crossing borders and that has cost in a rental, I have read too many not so perfect outcomes of renting so I will over insure the car and that has cost, and I would figure 30€ a night to park it. And it’s a one-way trip so the dropoff fee is going to be more than $500 (maybe a lot more this being Croatia). I know that’s mostly my problem (except for the cost).

Posted by
1458 posts

I think the other factor here is that 11-13 days (does that include day of arrival and day of departure)
is not that much time if you consider the time it takes to get from place to place.

Understanding that this may be your one chance to see Croatia and you are naturally trying to cram
in as much as you can, I would still advise that you think about trying to enjoy what you can and not
turn it into a great chase to check items off the list.

I will say that you can get from Dubrovnik to Split via bus (~4 hrs) and that while you can spend forever
in either place, 2-3 nights is probably sufficient for each. Did not get to Sibenik; Trogir is an easy bus
ride from downtown Split but I am not sure it's worth the time if you are also trying to get to an
island or two (I am aware that Trogir is an island, but you know what I meant).

If you wanted to head north, which would sacrifice Mr E's wonderful itinerary, you could rent a car in
Spiit, drive to Plitvice (~3 hours), spend a night there, and then head north. The problem with Rovinj
is how much you have to head west to get there. While the roads are smooth and easy to drive on,
it may take longer than you think to get from one place to another if you're on regular roads, as there
are not as many of them as you might be used to here.

To complicate things, Zagreb is a lovely place to spend a night or two, and it offers probably the best
flight options for heading home. It's also a much straighter shot driving than heading to the west.

I think that if you don't overstuff your plan, and you look at the glass as half-full, it will be wonderful
no matter what you end up doing.

Posted by
7017 posts

If you drove on Sardinia (unless it was so limited as to not be worth mentioning), I assure you, you can drive in Croatia. I would definitely classify Croatia as one of the easier place to travel.
You can take a bus between Split and Istria, but you would likely want to break up the trip, and you just don’t have that kind of time. Make your must list and we can help you remove things from it, but I usually think the answer is north or south and not both,

Posted by
38 posts

Thanks to all of you!!!
You validated what i was thinking about choosing north or south. And gave me great itinerary ideas.
Using our mileage plan it is easier to fly into Dubrovnik and out of Split as we will be flying to UK for few days before heading home.
So i can reverse Mr E ‘s plan and use private and public transportation. The North sounds a bit too challenging .
I appreciate all of your generous advice.