Going in September

If I'm reading your plan correctly, you are traveling from Zagreb to Plitvice; back to Zagreb, and then to Rovinj? That involves some backtracking which will waste time. Most travelers advise that you arrive at Plitvice first thing in the morning to avoid the hordes of tourists and buses, so with a one day tour, be prepared for wall to wall people on those trails. We did not visit Rovinj due to the logistics of our trip, so I can not speak to that city.

Split was my least favorite place in all of Croatia. IMO it is highly overrated, and insanely crowded. If you feel that you must see it, then the very most time I would spend there would be 2 nights. I would suggest that you consider taking the ferry from Split to Korcula, and spend a few nights there. If that island does not interest you, then take a look at Hvar. From those islands you can ferry to Dubrovnik. We did not use the bus system in Croatia; had a rental car for a very small portion of the trip, and we also hired a private guide. It's a beautiful country, that you will enjoy!

It’s a full itinerary, but manageable without a rental car. Buses work well for most of it, and for parts where public transport gets tricky or time-consuming, private transfers are a good option.

After Rovinj, you’ve got 3 open nights, good places to consider are Zadar or Šibenik. Both are interesting coastal towns, well-connected, and less hectic than Split or Dubrovnik. Either makes a good stop before heading south.

In Split, 3 nights gives you time to explore and also do a day trip inland or along the coast. For transfers (e.g., Zadar/Šibenik/Split, or Split to Dubrovnik) and day trips out of Split, I recommend Ivan Ćosić (Mc-Travel Croatia). He’s a private driver based in Split and can help streamline things. Very reliable and responsive, you can find him on Facebook.

It can feel like a lot to plan, but having a driver lined up for the longer stretches or less direct routes makes it much easier.

I would recomend to stay in Rovinj who has one of the most beautifull sunsets
https://vm.tiktok.com/ZNdBVYpwn/

If you have time visit the rivers in Lika
https://vm.tiktok.com/ZNdB4ExcN/

or hidden lagoons around Pula
https://vm.tiktok.com/ZNdBVBWtg/

Why are you so resistant to rent a car? You will truly miss so much. The roads are fantastic in Croatia and driving is very safe. I would really recommend that if you go to Istria/Rovinj, that you have a car. Otherwise, what is the point? I suggest that you consider staying those extra three nights in Istria and really get to the know the place. So much to see.

At least you are willing to do Plitvice without spending the night. Good for you. It’s September and it will probably work out okay.

Emily says rent a car and Emily is a trusted source here. But Emily forgets that not all of us are comfortable driving on holiday; me included. Then there is the issue of either doing a round trip or paying a drop off fee that can be higher than the cost of the rental. But Emily might know a workaround or a company. Again, she is the best source.

I am a spoiled old fart. I only take holidays that I can afford to take to my standard of getting the most enjoyment possible out of the trip. I have done something similar to your plans twice and a shorter trip once. For your trip I would probably take the bus to Rovinj then use a transfer to Plitvice then a transfer to Split. It’s a long day, but worth it maybe. I love transfers so I can look out the window, yell stop and see things along the way and just plain not have to worry about anything, and no back tracking. Then a bus or a transfer to Dubrovnik.

How long in each stop? Well, the cities you mention are good bases to see a lot other than the city. So how many days is as much about what is around the city as the city itself. Otherwise I say 2 or 3 nights in Split and 2 or 3 in Dubrovnik. The best stuff in Croatia for me at least was the sorts of things where I needed expert advice and assistance to do well. Things like vineyards and olive orchards private boat trips. I generally look at Viator for each destination to get a list of the things to see and do then I contact a guide service and see if they can combine a few into something more enjoyable than a large group tour for a cost do. The 2 or 3 nights can turn into 5 or 6 that way.

I know a good tour agency in the region and I know a very good guide in Dubrovnik if either would help you.

Thanks so much for your reply.
My husband and I are 67 and 70 and really don’t want the responsibility of driving a car, parking etc… We also know taking a bus will allow us to enjoy the scenery. But know we don’t want to spend to much time traveling on the roads.
Can you share the tour guide company or a private drivers name and information?
Have a good day.

I sent you a PM with a few names.

Always happy to help. I wish I could help more with Croatia buy its a complicated place and to be helpful it takes good current and knowledgeable input and my few trips and few weeks in Croatia don't qualify. But the names I sent you are very, very good.

I trust Emily with northern Croata. I know she has a lot of experience.

Rovinj is the outlier, so if still considering bus travel I would consider eliminating it, as Zagreb-Plitvice-Split-Dubrovnik is really a snap by bus. This is a very standard itinerary and not complicated to do independently.
For the loose nights, add 1-2 for Plitvice, then pick an island between Split and Dubrovnik (catamaran travel is also a snap).

I,too, would love the information on how to set up transfers from Rovinj to Plitvice and then to Split. We are going the end of September and right now I have a rental car but I would like to consider the other option. Thank you!

Jsss72, https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/croatia/great-travel-agent-for-montenegro-and-croatia

I agree with others that driving is a better way to see Croatia but understand why you wouldn't want to drive. I would skip Rovinj by bus. The best part of going to Istria is driving on your own and stopping at tiny towns. Maybe you could take a bus Zagreb--Zadar for a night or two, then to Split. Or go direct Zagreb to Split if not interested in Zadar. I didn't care much for Split but you'll want to see the palace. Then use the ferry system to spend time at one of the islands, based on your interests.

Rovinj is the siren of Croatia, and many a travel itinerary have fallen before it. It’s a square peg for a round hole unless you’re exploring up that way. Hvar and Korcula are equivalent destinations and directly in your path towards Dubrovnik. Replacing Rovinj with one of these is a no-brainer imo.

It’s a long ride to Plitvice, and seems crazy to di this as a day trip and then a long bus ride the next day. When you cut Rovijn you’re back on a straight line to Split, and this allows you to spend the night before taking a bus to Split the next day. Crowds or no, having the overnight stay gives you the breathing room to explore Plitvice at a more relaxed pace. You want this. When I went in late June and entered the park at opening, I was literally the only person on the trail. You cannot beat that.

People are very split on Split. I enjoyed it a lot more than most. Still, two nights here is about right. The palace itself is a pretty lightweight sight, but experiencing just how thoroughly incorporated it is in the city was a highlight.

Lastly, it’s an overwhelming region to plan. You will invariably have to leave something out (like Rovijn.) I can only assure you that it’s hard to make very wrong choices here. Make a tight plan and roll ahead. Good luck!

OP, I am back with the hottest of hot takes. I’m in Rovijn now, and I have to say it’s not quite what I expected. My direct comparison is Korcula, and while I’ve subscribed to the idea that many of these coast towns a rough equivalents I am reminded they are not the same.

First, that three hour bus ride. It’s about my max for a bus ride. Since you’re looking at two nights here, 6 long hours of bus time in and out is nothing to sneeze at.

What took me off guard is how resort-y it is here. There’s thousands of people in the nearby resort hotels. They all come to town in the evening and absolutely pack the streets and especially the restaurants. And this isn’t quite high season yet. September is likely about the same.

I think most of us American travelers, or at least the RS academy travelers, are looking for more rustic or romantic settings. I found that in Korcula. Even when Korcula had luxury yachts lined up in the harbor and every restaurant was visibly busy, I always managed to find a happy quiet spot to appreciate. Rovinj is less a “back-door” and more of a noisy patio.

Rovinj is just part of the ant-trail now in the world of overtouristed travel.

awrzesinski, Croatia IS the ant trail now. With a population of less than 4 million saw almost 30 million international tourist arrivals last year. Thats more than a 50% increase over pre-pandemic. And it would be fair to assume that more than half of that number came in a 3-month period. Geographically and as compared to the local population that’s several times denser than a place like Austria.

But Croatia is very beautiful and historically very interesting, and if you accept it as it is, it can be a good destination.

Here are a few links to Croatia by my favorite travel writer.

Momentary lapses of reason dubrovnik to split by bus
https://europebetweeneastandwest.wordpress.com/2021/08/24/momentary-lapses-of-reason-dubrovnik-to-split-by-bus-travels-on-the-croatian-coastline-7/

You Must Remember This: Dubrovnik & The Architecture of Survival:
https://europebetweeneastandwest.wordpress.com/2014/10/12/you-must-remember-this-dubrovnik-the-architecture-of-survival/

Thanks for all the advice and recommendations. It's a wonderful forum.
I have adjusted our trip to Croatia after a lot of reading, You tube videos and research and of course RS book.
Here's a rough draft of our itinerary, with no car. We don't want the responsibility of parking and navigating through the country on our own.
Booking.com was great for booking all of our accommodations. Three hotels and two apartments.
I know how far we are from bus station to all of our destinations. We will also use Uber or Bolt.

arrive in Zagreb - two nights here, we arrive in the evening, then a day tour of Zagreb the next day, day 3 bus to Zadar ( about 4 hours)
Zadar- day 3, three nights here, with a bus tour to Plitvice Lakes National Park (on Tripadvisor app) , sightseeing in old town and guided evening tour here in town, then a bus to Sibnenik ( about hour and half bus ride)
Sibnenik- day 6, three nights here with a tour includes vistas, history, olive oil and wine (on App Get Your Guide), exploring old town
Split- day 9, three nights here, island hopping from here, explore old town with possible guide , we also have recommendations from our hotel (leave on Krilo or the other ferry to Dubrovnik) about 4 and half to 5 hours)
Dubrovnik- day 12, three nights here, will probably get a tour guide that was recommended on this forum and probably get a Dubrovnik pass that includes a lot of the attractions.
Day 15- fly home

The only thing I would do differently is to spend a night in Plitvice en route to Zadar. Get there in the afternoon, wake up, see the park, take bus to Zadar. You don't need to do a bus tour especially since the park is most crowded when bus tours are there.

I agree with Ivan about spending a night at Plitvice. We got there just after it opened and had a lovely time. We were shocked when we left in the early afternoon. We looked down at the pathway and it was just a long line of people all the way. It looked like a very different experience. I would take a night off Sibenik or Zadar.