We are here now and the two-day lakes plan is exactly what we did. The crowds were practically non-existent on the upper lakes trail in the afternoon and the second day on the lower lakes, while more crowded, was totally doable. My only recommendation would be to ask the staff about busses if you plan to take one to stop 3 and walk the upper lakes. (Downhill walk is much easier.). The bus stop destinations are not marked very well. Reserve your ticket online. Much easier, and yes, they stick to it for crowd control purposes. You get an hour window after you scheduled entry time. Ours was at 2 and we were there then, but we had to wait nearly 30 minutes for a bus. We finally finished around 5:15 and hiked back uphill from the boat dock to Hotel Jerez, which is very comfortable, BTW. But if you’re planning to stay here, book well in advance. Not as expensive as you are led to believe in the book either. I’d avoid the dinner buffet, though. It was truly bad and noisy with all the groups. We’re staying an extra night here just to relax halfway through our month-long trip, and it’s been worth it.