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Croatia with a taste of Slovenia: Help with 14 day late April itinerary

My wife and I are flying out of Thunder Bay, Ontario to Zagreb on April 20 for two weeks in Croatia and surroundings. We will be renting a car for the duration and returning back through Zagreb. We tend to be pretty active travelers and love to hike, bike and kayak with a healthy dose of cafe sitting on the side. We are both a bit gimpy for this trip (my newly repaired foot, her soon to be repaired hip) so it may involve more cafe sitting than usual.

Sidebar for Americans living close to the Canadian Border: We live in Duluth, MN and we saved $400 on each ticket by taking the far more scenic drive up the North Shore of Lake Superior vs. the equdistant run down I-35 to Minneapolis.<

In developing a workable itinerary for a trip like this, I know that the first thing that one must do is to backwardly prioritize the things that one is willing to give up. Often the first thing that I am willing to give up is the big juicy chunk that looks worth saving for another trip. I love to sail and intend to come back to the Adriatic for a sailing adventure some time so we have decided to skip any island without a bridge or a causeway. Slovenia also looks well worth its own trip so we are just going for a taste, probably spending the last two days in Ljubljana before heading home from Zagreb. We aren't so much city travelers but as a guy who has spent most of his adult life building stuff, I need to visit a city whose cultural hero is an architect. As we aren't so much city travelers, Split and Zadar probably won't make the cut outside of possible stops in route.

After making a couple of easy eliminations, this exercise always gets more difficult and I find myself switching to prioritizing the must do side of the equation. Even though I am a bit queasy about what the cruise ship economy has done to Dubrovnik, it appears on the top of pretty much everyone's "must do" list and makes it to ours as well. Although the allure of the Dalmatian coast is obvious, Istria has at least as strong a draw for both of us so Rovinj with side trips into the hills is near the top of the list. I stated my reasons above for Ljubljana making the cut and Zagreb gets there by default, being our point of arrival and departure.

This is where it gets really hard. It's not just including other things that are important but allocating time to what is most important. There are some blanks but here is what I am thinking:

Day 1, April 21: Arrive in Zagreb at 2pm, stroll the old town and recover from jet lag.

Day 2: Leave early to visit the Plitvice Lakes on the way to Sibenik. Not enough time for the Plitvice Lakes, you say? We own a cabin on a lake just outside of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area and our house overlooks Lake Superior. Frankly, we are lake snobs. It has to be pretty darn special to get a rise out of us. These lakes do look that special so they rate the detour. Why Sibenek, you ask? Poking around on Google Street View and such, it looks like our Goldilocks and the Three Bears kind of town, not too big, not too small, a good introduction and a reasonable drive.

Day 3: Sibenik again to actually recover from jet lag.

Day 4: Travel either on the expressway or down the coast to Dubrovnik. We'll see how it shakes out but we plan on using the expressway in one direction and the coastal route for the other.

Day 5: More of Dubrovnik

Days 6-8: Unallocated

Days 9-10:Rovinj with side trips

Days 11-12: Ljubljana

Day 13: Back to Zagreb and home the next morning, May 4.

So, what do you think? Help us fill in the unallocated time (Kotor? Mostar? more of the Dalmatian coast? more time in any of our other stops?) and critique the rest. I have cancelable reservations everywhere but I am wondering how badly I really need them at this time of year. I am tempted to cancel all of them except for Zagreb and Ljubljana. Freedom is great but lining everything up on the fly can be pesky and potentially disappointing. Thoughts?

Jim

Posted by
334 posts

For travelers who have the time, which you do, I always recommend Mostar. It is one of the most significant places I've ever been. There are other places that are more beautiful, but there's just something about Mostar and it's confluence of culture and the scars of war that are still very fresh. I've been to battlefields in the US and even live in the same city as the Alamo, but all of it is so far in the past, it has lost its emotion. The emotions are still fresh in Mostar and you can see the work to rebuild and reunite. And Mostar does have it's own beauty in the arid mountains and turquoise river that runs through it. If you do go, watch one of the documentaries about Mostar and/or the Bosnian War to get some perspective on how far the city has come since the dark days of the '90s.

Posted by
28065 posts

I traveled in Croatia last year in late August and again in October. Only for the last stay in Zagreb did I make reservations more than 48 hours in advance. Rovinj is very popular and it was a bit tricky when I decided to add a couple of days to my stay there; I didn't have a car and didn't want to be much more than a mile from the bus station. I ultimately found a geographically-suitable place by stopping at one of the local travel agencies, which had a private room on its books. Unless you hit some sort of special event, I imagine you'd be OK making reservations on the road as I did. I used booking.com. I suspect you may decide you'd like more time in Zagreb than you currently have sketched in, so I hope you'll be able to keep your schedule flexible. Both Ljubljana and Zagreb are good for café-sitting if the weather cooperates. Zagreb had turned chilly and wet by the second week of October 2015.

I recommend stops in Motovun and Groznjan during your sweep through Istria. Porec, like Rovinj, is touristy, but it has a different look.

I had only a few hours to wander around Zadar and wished I had at least one full day, but you could see a lot of the historic district in 3 hours or so if you can spare that much time. The Greeting to the Sun is not something to be seen in the daytime, unfortunately.

Kotor is very atmospheric but was overrun with tourists (monumental cruise ships now dock there) in early October. There's more to Montenegro than Kotor, so I'd recommend leaving the latter for another trip when you have time to visit more of the country, especially since you're going to Dubrovnik. I think Mostar would be a good addition if there is time, but I saw it before Yugoslavia split up.

Posted by
1174 posts

We did 2 weeks from Zagreb to Dubrovnik last May - here was our driving itinerary - we loved it !

This seems more of a round trip - after Dubrovnik, you could drive back to Zagreb.

Zagreb - Ljubljana - Lake Bled - Rovinj - Plitvice - Split - Hvar - Mostar - Kotor - Dubrovnik

We did so much hiking and biking - it truly was an amazing trip.

And don't skip Plitvice - there is NOTHING quite like it anywhere !!