A Little Trip Report for Sofia, Plovdiv and Rila Monastery

I began on my own in Sofia before a Seymour Travel tour of northern Greece, Macedonia and Albania and this really enriched my trip. I flew (carry on backpack, exactly 8 kilos at check in) Lufthansa from Seattle to Munich in a sort of premium economy seat but was fortunate the middle seat was empty. I then had a very close (45 minutes, due to a delay leaving Seattle) Lufthansa connection in Munich and still can't believe I made it. For one, I am very fast! Two, the automated EES machines had red Xs and there wasn't much of a line to see a human agent and lastly, the onward flight ended up being delayed, also, as I arrived at the gate having run with my backpack!
I can highly recommend the ArtHotel in Sofia. It's a beautifully restored historic building in the middle of a quiet residential block in a perfect walking location. I liked being among the dog walkers, families off to school and the several Syrian shops at the corner. The staff spoke English and were always helpful, my room was comfortable and very clean, the breakfast buffet was lovely and the support for local artists was another plus. (I didn't spend time in their chic bar or evening restaurant.)
I was up early the first (and only) full Sofia day and walked all morning to famous sites: the Nevsky Cathedral, state government buildings, the Women's Market and the Jewish Synagogue/Museum.
In the afternoon I had arranged a ticket online to Boyana Church to see the famous frescos. (I used a taxi rather than trying to deal with public transportation options, it's outside the central city.) Despite only allowing each set of 12 guests 10 strictly timed minutes, the guide was very informative and the interior small enough to see these stunning UNESCO treasures closely. Then I strolled Vitosha Boulevard, the pedestrianized shopping street. So many cafes and bars and all were busy. What a vibrant city!
I had connected with Stefan, a RS guide for the Bulgaria tours, from Lubya Travels, and, with a driver, we spent a fascinating day in Plovdiv. We had interesting conversations on the way as far as the EU, current geopolitics and insightful historical information to have context for touring Plovdiv. The Bulgarian Empire was just massive, stretching north to the Carpathian Mountains and almost to Thessaloniki, so really relevant for the upcoming Seymour Travel tour.
The layers of history are literally visible in some of the walls of Plovdiv, as each successive group built right on top of those they conquered using the very same stones. This is also true of mosques and churches. There is history everywhere and a sense of just how ancient these cities are…and what a cultural crossroads…
Early to mid- October the weather and autumn colors were glorious, although that was also good fortune. I am newly retired and what a gift to be able to travel at less crowded times. The next day we stopped at Rila Monastery on the way to Thessaloniki in northern Greece (where the Seymour Travel tour began at the City Hotel). Stefan navigated us to Rila before the first huge tour bus arrived, so he was able to share so much information and so many details of the church and its history.
Bulgaria is a fascinating and beautiful country! If I had longer I would have loved to see some of the places the RS tour travels. If you feel ready for a different travel perspective than Northern Europe and southern Greece- and especially if you have been to Turkey- I encourage you to visit Bulgaria!