We spent about 5 days in Sarajevo in September 2026 and it is a magnificent and unforgettable place to visit. We stayed at Hotel Old Town, where the staff were amazing (not only did they help with restaurant choices and reservations, but my husband asked for ice our first day, and they said they didn't have an ice machine, then literally went out to a café and brought a glass of ice to our room!) It was right in the middle of everything but surprisingly quiet. Rick recommends the Siege Tour with Funky Tours and I would really say to book that before you do anything else; driving around the city with someone who lived through the war, seeing places rooted in their memories, learning more about the history of the place, and talking about life and conflict and political polarization was absolutely amazing. We also took a general walking tour that was a bit superficial but helped us decide where to come back to. The city is full of beauty in so many ways.
The tram worked well for us getting out to the National Museum (there's basically only one line) and I had a lovely lunch on the rooftop of the Crvena jabuka gastro market across the street (sort of like Whole Foods, just buy some lunch, carry your basket up to the roof and join all the locals.) We also enjoyed the Olympic Museum and a great coffee at Kawa nearly adjacent to it down the hill. Oh, and can't forget to mention Tito's Iron Fist Socialist Laundry! Great conversation with the expat American who runs the place, and he delivered to our hotel for only a little extra.
I would really encourage anybody who is interested to consider traveling to Sarajevo (and Mostar which we also did.) Cameron's videos and essays helped me prepare, as did Rick's book of course.