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Yucutan Area: Tulum, Valladolid, Isla Mujeras

We are travelling to Mexico for the first time next month. Our general itinerary is set and accommodations booked for the areas mentioned in the title.

We are mainly interested in ruins, beach, snorkelling, and a little bit of culture. We aren't doing the all-inclusive, party scene.

We plan to visit Tulum and Chichen Itza, as well as swim in some cenotes. Valladolid is listed as a "Pueblo Magico," so, hopefully, it will have Mexican charm. Isla Mujeros is mostly for beach and relaxation.

Looking for suggestions on sights we haven't thought of, places to eat, or any other tips you can think of. Note: we will not have a car.

Posted by
7552 posts

There is a recent thread here... https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/beyond-europe/tulum-mexico-at-christmas-riviera-maya

We have done the same, multiple times, but not in the last 4 years, and things seem to change fast down there. My advice is to search for expat blogs for the coast, they have a lot of good information. I hesitate to recommend anyplace specific, but based on past experience....

Snorkeling: In many places the reef is too far off shore for snorkeling from the beach. That leaves you with a tour, or going to the limited places where you can. Akumel does have a bay where you can snorkel on your own, or pay to do a tour that includes turtles. There is also a lagoon where you can pay a small fee (Yal Ku) and/or rent equipment, that has very good snorkeling. Xel-Ha is a big commercial waterpark type thing further up the coast, pricy, all inclusive, but we actually enjoyed it, and the snorkeling was pretty good. Other than that, the town of Puerto Morales has local fishing coops that run tours cheap, well worth it. Not been to Isla Mujeras, so can't comment on what's there.

Tulum has the best beaches, especially if you go north on the beach/hotel road, just south of the ruins. We have been many times to what is now Pocna Hotel and Beach Club, whether we were staying there or not, excellent beach, beach chairs, drinks....it has been up and down over the years, but that whole stretch of beach is nice.

If you happen to be in Playa del Carmen, our go to places to eat were Babes Noodle Bar (Thai/Asian/Mex fusion [Don't ask]) though they have moved, so? and Cuevo de Chango, a good local place.

Posted by
7049 posts

Vallodolid is delightful, colonial, and even has a cenote right in town. You can take a bus there from downtown Cancun (the bus system is called ADO and you can buy a ticket at the station). The bus system in the Yucatan is great, and the buses are quite luxurious (I mostly took first class buses).

Casa de los Venados has a spectacular private collection of folk art, not to be missed: http://www.casadelosvenados.com
Casa Queztal Boutique Hotel is also really lovely: https://www.booking.com/Share-KeGdnO

If you can also make it to Izamal, that would be a plus. It's also a Pueblo Magico and everything in this small village is painted yellow, very photogentic.

Posted by
4518 posts

Comments:

We stayed in Valladolid, it’s OK tight to the square, beyond that is a large amount of sprawl. 2 nights and one day is plenty of time. Cenote Xcanche near the Ek Balam ruins is pretty fabulous, so some day trips with car makes a good longer stay.

Isla Mujares has a good north beach. It’s all developed. I recall 30 years ago there was a scam with taxis to the airport from the dock, we got around it by taking a taxi to a hotel then immediately switching to another taxi to get to the airport.

I think staying at Chichen Itza is the way to go when visiting, then just walk in the back way right at opening. Villas Archaeological is reasonably priced. By 9:30 it gets oppressively busy till closing. It’s the Tower of Pisa of Mexico.

If you have a car, Uxmal is arguably the best Yucatán ruin and the ruins of the nearby Ruta Puuc are really good also. Merida is hands down the best urban area for site seeing in the Yucatán, colonial charm with museums, but it and the Puuc ruins are all a haul from Cancun. There are no good beaches or snorkeling on this end of the peninsula. Note that cruise ships from the US Gulf coast stop in Progreso, 2 hours from Uxmal so 200 tank top and bikini clad people show up about 11 am.

Posted by
1651 posts

Thanks for the suggestions and tips I've received so far. Taking note!

Posted by
6788 posts

Some good advice above so far.

I've been going to the Yucatán for decades. Parts of it have changed dramatically (on my first visit, Playa del Carmen was a small fishing village with mostly unpaved sand streets, just a few small funky hotels, mostly European hippies on the beach, cheap lobster, and just one telephone...). Other parts haven't changed so much, but you need to make some effort to reach those places, and they're all some distance from the over-developed coast around Cancun. I still love the Yucatán, but lament how extreme over-tourism has left its mark.

I've always believed that the best plans for visiting the Yucatán all involved flying in to CUN, renting a car, putting Cancun in the rear view mirror, and driving until I was far away from it (or hopping over to Cozumel - as a scuba diver, it is a Mecca). I can not imagine visiting the region and not having a car (especially given your stated interests). The biggest and/or most famous archeological sites all suffer from extreme tourism, and just like like all the other places that are being loved-to-death around the world, the key to enjoying them is to be there when the crowds are not: very early, and very late (so your best best is to sleep at the ruins). Only mad dogs, Englishmen, and mass-tourist participants go out in the midday sun and suffer the worst crowding. But if you get up with the howler monkeys, do the ruins in the relatively cool morning hours, you can enjoy a siesta, perhaps an icy cerveza and a refreshing dip in the pool back at your hotel during the extremely hot and busy mid-day hours, then snatch another few hours at the ruins as the shadows get long and most tourists have long since headed back to their Cancun hotels or cruise ships. Do this at the big/famous/highly-marketed-package-tour ruins (Chichen Itza, Tulum, to some extent Uxmal, too). By all means, the Villas Archaeologica hotels at Chichen Itza (there's one at Uxmal, too) are the perfect base for getting your morning and afternoon ruins access (these were actually built to house working archeologists at the ruins; they're perfectly comfy and reasonable).

Drive down the "Ruta Puuc" for a string of some smaller but still impressive ruins that you just might have all to yourself. If you want the best ruins that you and most others have never heard of (shhhhh...) head south to Calakmul for a real jungle adventure. You will have huge pyramids deep in the jungle all to yourself with only the sounds of the jungle around you (well, in my experience you may have to share the ruins with the occasional wandering wild turkey, herds of deer, howler monkeys in the trees, and the ghosts of the Mayans who built it, but seeing many other tourists in the huge overgrown old city is rare). It's as big as Chichen Itza but still only partly excavated -- and unlike Chichen Itza, Calakmul is pretty empty.

It can be hard to find the beach of your dreams these days (assuming your dreams don't include a lot of development). Back in the day, one could drive their VW "Combi" onto any stretch of unclaimed sand and set up camp beneath the palmtrees (been there, loved that), but undeveloped beachfront is hard to find these days unless you are pretty dedicated (try the far south, near the Belize border (it's still somewhat "wild" although also perhaps a bit sketchy, down near Xcalak, if you are adventurous).

Even with all it's changes and challenges, the Yucatán is still a worthwhile destination filled with amazing things to see and do. You will have a blast.

¡Vaya con dios!

Posted by
1651 posts

Wonderful information. Thanks.

We will not be renting a car. I would not enjoy myself if we rented a car. Maybe if we go back sometime, and I'm feeling more comfortable and knowledgeable about the area, I'll consider it. I do know that it will be touristy, but I'm trying to avoid the worst of it, such as hotels blaring music on the beach, as I understand some of the beach clubs do.

Based on the responses, I am trying to change our last night in Vallodolid to a night at Chichen Itza, though.

Posted by
7049 posts

How long is this trip? A prior post was correct, Merida is a true jewel and the largest city in the Yucatan. I don't know if you have time to go there too. If you do, you'll be in for a real treat (but you really need at least 3 more full extra days becasue there are so many things to see there, much more than anywhere else due to city's size). I've been to the Yucatan 5 times and never with a car, but you have to be OK with buses....even local "collectivos" will get you to some out-of-way places very inexpensively. I made it to Uxmal with a day tour although could have taken a bus from Cancun or Vallodolid instead.

Posted by
7552 posts

Without a car, you really need to nail down bus schedules. While an excellent bus system, there can be a limited number of buses a day, and you might need to go point a to b to c, rather than a to c. ADO is the state bus system, I believe there are schedules online, but tickets are only at the station.

Taxis are available (lots of them) in Tulum and other towns, you can also find lots of other private tour companies for a trip to a cenote or other attractions.

Posted by
1651 posts

The trip is two weeks long. Initially, I had thought of staying in Merida, but ended up changing my mind, because of the wish to see ruins, cenotes, and have beach/snorkelling time. If we had another few days, I definitely would have added Merida, but I don't think we'll change our overall itinerary at this point. Because our trip is fairly last minute and during busy season, it was already somewhat challenging to book places. I'll definitely put Merida back on my list for future reference, though.

I appreciate all the suggestions, and if we'd had more planning time, I would have asked for itinerary ideas first, and I probably should have done so, anyway. However, once we decided on Mexico, and my husband looked at his calendar, we realized we had a very narrow window of time that was not very far away, datewise, so I was anxious to make our bookings quickly, as some of the places I was interested in were already booked up.

So, at this point, I don't think I want to make any major changes, but I'm taking note of all the information I'm getting and am happy to know about it for future reference, even if I can't follow all the advice this trip. Mexico is a common destination for people from my area, and it's fairly easy to get to, so, if we like it, we might return.

We plan to use shuttles and/or the ADO bus to get around, and the occasional taxi. Our apartment host on Isla Mujeres has already given us the name of a reliable taxi driver for the Cancun area and has offered to arrange booking a golf cart for us while we're on the island. In the Tulum area, we are staying at a hotel on the beach north of Tulum in the Tankah area. There is supposed to be a cenote or two nearby, and the snorkelling is reputed to be decent (although perhaps not the turtle-rich snorkelling of Akamal). We aren't expert snorkelers by any means, but we snorkelled a few times in the Galapagos and enjoyed it. We are quite happy to paddle around in the bay near our hotel and see what we can see. Isla Mujeres is supposed to have some decent snorkelling spots, too.

I do like to avoid crowds, and I very much appreciate the tips on doing so. Even though we might not be able to follow all the suggestions, we will definitely try to get to the ruins we visit as early as possible to avoid the worst of it. We don't mind getting up early if it means having a better experience, so I appreciate the information. And I like the idea of going early and then heading back to the hotel for a rest in the early afternoon. Sounds like a great plan!

Any restaurant or dining tips? Breakfast is included in most of our stays, but we'll be looking for lunch and dinner ideas.

Posted by
4518 posts

Rental car: The turnpike that runs from Cancun to Merida is deserted because it is not cheap, so getting around is breathtakingly easy to do.

Posted by
7049 posts

Restaurant idea for Vallodolid: https://www.yerbabuenadelsisal.com/menu-english.html
Very easy going, local place very close to the convent San Bernardino. You can get there by a lovely, colorful street called Calz. De Los Frailes, which has a lot of nice shops and small cafes.

If you change your mind about Merida, PM me and I can offer plenty of recommendations since I just got back from there last month. Although, Vallodolid is like a mini-version of Merida....much smaller and also charming.

Posted by
1651 posts

Thank you.

If we return and go to Merida, I will definitely ask for recommendations.

Posted by
1651 posts

Well, I decided to cancel my stay in Valladolid and change it to Merida, instead, and one night right at Chichen Itza.

Posted by
4518 posts

Not sure about your sequence of events, but if staying at the Villas Arqueologica without a car you will have to get from the Valladolid bus station to there, about a 15 minute drive. The vast majority of visitors to Chichen Itza take a tour or drive themselves. There will be some sort of bus or collectivo from the main entrance to Valladolid but it won't serve this (east) end of the ruins, except maybe by flagging something down at the intersection with the highway but I doubt you want to walk there and wait in the sun. I am sure the hotel can call a taxi for you.

In general don't count on taxis being available from ruins.

Posted by
1651 posts

Thanks. We are staying at the Mayaland Bungalows. I believe (hope) we will be able to walk from there. Supposedly, it's closer than the Villas Arqueologicas and allows access to the back entrance to Chichen Itza.

We are planning to book a tour of Vallanolid from Merida the day we check in at Chichen Itza, and have asked to be dropped off at our hotel at Chichen Itza on the way back. (Private tour.)

Posted by
596 posts

Our apartment host on Isla Mujeres has already given us the name of a reliable taxi driver for the Cancun area and has offered to arrange booking a golf cart for us while we're on the island.

We came out of a beach club on Isla Mujeres to find our golf cart was missing. They all tend to look alike, so we had left some conch shells and a towel on it to help identify it. It was a little concerning, but club staff called the rental company and they brought us another one!

Have a great time! When we were working, we took a yearly winter vacation to that area. We loved our time on the Yucatan Peninsula.

Posted by
2074 posts

Paamul is 12 miles south of Playa Del Carmen and just north of Tulum. There is a beach restaurant there and good for lunch. The reef there is not far off the beach. I’ve been able to swim out and back without a problem. Buy an inexpensive tube ( I’d last time) if you aren’t comfortable in the water.
Just south of Tulum is a neat ruin called Muyil. It’s worth a visit and easy to reach by car. Just follow the road south out of tulum. You can drive to Coba from Tulum too. It’s not a long ride. I’ve done it many times.
Coba was closed last year, so check first. I’ve also driven to Chi Chen Itza from Coba too.

Posted by
4518 posts

Mayaland Bungalows

Yes, it’s one of the 4 hotels near the back (east) entrance. It’s probably possible to walk into the ruins before opening (without paying) from Mayaland, but I didn’t try it.

Posted by
1651 posts

Thanks for the golf cart tip. Good idea.

Diane, good suggestions. I'm comfortable in the water, but my DH is less so. We will not have a car, but maybe we could take a taxi.

Good to know that the info about the back entrance is correct. I'm happy to pay, but I like the idea of a less-busy entrance that we can walk to.

Posted by
1651 posts

So, Tom_MN, I decided to investigate further and have learned that the back entrance has been closed since Covid started and has not reopened. So, hmm. The hotel apparently has a shuttle to the main entrance, but this is still disappointing news.

Posted by
1651 posts

Oh, I'd definitely "sneak" out, then. But sneaking in? I'd be afraid I'd sneak my way into jail.

Posted by
81 posts

If you can get a taxi or bus to Akumal early in the morning (before 10, or earlier), snorkeling with the sea turtles was probably the highlight of our trip. I had never snorkeled with turtles before and it was incredible. We got scooped up by a guide at the entrance, and did the swimming tour circuit from the beach, though they have other more costly options, too. You can get a guide in the dive shop, but it seemed like they were all comparative. They had snorkel equipment there, but we brought our own. Akumal Beach was busy, but we did enjoy hanging there a couple hours each day we stayed in Akumal. (I’m the one who posted the thread about visiting at Christmas).
We canceled the booked tour to Rio Secreto, realizing advanced tickets weren’t necessary, that left us with more flexibility (we ended up doing a different cave tour).
We never made it to any ruins besides Tulum and Coba. We had a car, so typically tried to find restaurants with parking. We enjoyed Honorios taqueria in Tulum town for cheap taqueria style. and we loved the chicken tacos at a place called Mateos (closer to the beach road). A little Expat owned spot called “Leif’s” was a favorite for papaya or açaí breakfast bowls and delicious cold teas and blended coffee.
The ruins at Tulum got really busy around 11AM. It also got uncomfortably warm for me, despite being close to the ocean. There was little to no shade at the ruins.
Coba was much more enjoyable as it’s mostly forested, much cooler and shadier. Besides the issue of crowds, I’m not sure I’d be able to enjoy Chichén Itza after 9:30 or 10 AM due to the heat.
Bring cash for all the ruins sites, and really for anything you want to do, make sure you have plenty of cash. Tulum ruins said exact cash only, no change. Unsure if they’d really turn you away if you wanted change,, but we lucked out with the exact amount on us. We used the ATM at the Super Aki grocery store in Tulum.
In Tulum, we had a hotel with a nice bit of quiet beach. We we never explored the north beach road, where it splits with the main town road. We drove down the beach road further south past our hotel (Maya Tulum) and it was just full of cars the whole way down.
My husband sustained a pretty bad foot wound our first night in Tulum — a very small piece of metal rebar from a crumbled concrete post went right between his toes. So things like cenotes, trying to get footing on slippery rocks, were no longer options. We did one dry cave tour, Aktun Chen, and we toured a monkey sanctuary owned by a Mayan family… called Punta Laguna — not far from Coba ruins. Otherwise our five days were easily spent chilling on the beach whenever we felt like it!
I’m curious to hear your reviews. It was my first trip to Mexico. With a car, we got to see a lot of things, despite our slow pace. There’s a squatters village right in the center of Tulum town. Do some reading about the squatters (and hotel evictions) in the area. We noticed the guard towers on the highway and started our research from there. We found out about evictions when a friend told me about a little spot she used to stay… which was evicted by force by rioting locals.
It was surprising and worrying to us to see people wait on the highway for colectivos, especially at night. Not something I would feel safe doing, personally, though I know many workers in the area have few options. I was shocked to see a couple tourists braving it one night (we mostly avoided driving at night).
We’re heading back to Mexico in April, checking out some towns on the west coast this time, near Sayulita (Sayulita itself seemed too crowded). We’ve never eaten such delicious food on any trip. I need a second stomach for our next trip. Enjoy.

¡Bueno suerte!

Posted by
1651 posts

Thanks, karina. We just arrived home from our trip this afternoon (report soon), but your tips will definitely come in handy for anyone else who finds this thread while planning a similar trip. Sorry to hear about your dh's foot. I can see how that would have put a crimp on some activities.

Posted by
1 posts

Hi BB - I'm anxious to hear the report of your trip. My husband and I are planning on spending a week in Tulum in April and have been scouring this thread for info. It's our first trip to Mexico and I can't seem to settle on a hotel choice. I'm also wondering if you wished you had a car. I hope you had a magical time!

Posted by
1651 posts

Until I get a chance to do my trip report, I'll give you a bit of info. We stayed for 5 nights at Casa Altamar near Tankah Pueblo. https://casaaltamar.com We loved it. The views were amazing and the food excellent. A continental breakfast was included, with other options possible for a fee. However, the continental breakfast was plentiful and good, with several types of fruit, toast, and banana bread. You can purchase lunch and drinks on the beach, and the restaurant is open for dinner. They serve complimentary cold water on the beach, too. The beach is quiet and uncrowded, even though there is a beach club that is open to the public (for a fee). The beachfront section specifically belonging to the hotel is small (but more than adequate for the number of guests--loungers were always available), but the beach itself continues in both directions for a long way. There is a dock that extends out past the rocks, with steps down into the water and hammocks under a palapa at the end. There is also a pool beside the hotel, right behind the beach.

For 4 days, we didn't miss having a car, but be aware that taxis into Tulum are expensive (400 pesos one way), and tours will usually charge a bit extra for pickup there We paid 100 pesos extra for our Sian Ka'an tour with Community Tours. (Recommend! https://siankaantours.org ) That was far less than a taxi, though.

Note: We used this company for a shuttle from the airport to our hotel: https://www.cancunairporttransportations.com It cost less than the shuttle the hotel would have arranged for us, and it was okay, although meeting up with them at the airport was a bit of a zoo. The one the hotel books might be a little more luxe, and they might meet you with a sign with your name on it, whereas this one required us to find the agent in an area with lots and lots of travellers and agents for other shuttles, etc., milling about, but it all worked out. (Cost was $116 US, including two bottles of water.)

We took a taxi to Tulum to visit the ruins, but other than those two activities, we pretty much stayed at the hotel. If we were there longer, we'd probably have wanted to do additional excursions, so you would need to factor that in to whether you'd want to stay at Casa Altamar and whether you'd want to rent a car if you did. There is not a lot to do other than the beach and pool. Our first day, we spent a wonderful day at the beach and did some snorkelling. (Snorkelling is okay around there, but not spectacular. It was a good place for us to get used to snorkelling again, though, as we don't get to do it very often.) We planned to spend our last day at the beach, too, but our last couple of days were very windy and sargasso piled up at the beach. That would be true of any of the hotels right along that coast, mind you, but some might be closer to alternative activities. What we did that day was walk to the very close by Casa Cenote, and we snorkelled there and saw the resident crocodile, Panchito. Then we spent the afternoon at the pool.

So, for us, for four days, Casa Altamar was perfect and we were happy not to have a car. (The way people drive there stressed me out, and I was happy to have people who were more used to it driving us.) We loved that the beach was quiet and uncrowded. Some of the places I'd looked into closer to Tulum, in the hotel zone on the beach, had reviews that mentioned loud music blasting all day. We wanted a quieter experience, and we got that at Casa Altamar. (They play music, but not loudly, and their restaurant and bar closes at 10 pm.)

Hope that helps!

Oh, also, note that there are no televisions, if that matters to you. Also, it's not uncommon for the Internet to be spotty and for there to be brief power outages. Based on the reviews I read, this is true of other hotels on the coast near Tulum, too.