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Your Thoughts on India??

I could use some high-level advice from folks who’ve been to India or at least researched a trip there.

I’m 95% sure I’m taking a tour to India in February 2021 with a a friend. The tour covers Delhi (3 nights—just 2 days), Jaipur (3 nights), Ranthambore National Park (2 nights), Kalakho (1 night), Agra (2 nights) and Varanasi (3 nights). I will add independent travel before and after the tour—maybe 2 weeks before (including some extra days in Delhi) and 1 week after. Post-tour options will be somewhat limited because the weather will be getting very hot by then except up in the mountains

I need to have a vague plan quickly, because I want to arrange flights as soon as possible (probably in March). I know zip about India and cannot simply focus all my energies on it for the next 6 weeks because I have a 2020 trip to Europe that needs attention (flights not even booked yet for probable May departure).

So: Does anyone have some destinations they’d suggest I investigate as a first step? I have resources (some tour brochures, magazine articles, NYTimes articles, TV shows) and will of course take a look at the TripAdvisor forum and buy at least one guidebook, but it would normally take me many months to do the preliminary research for a trip like this. I need to take shortcuts so I can figure out the flights soon. Details and final decisions can come much later.

I see that both Rough and Lonely Planet have full-county guidebooks published in late 2019. There are a bunch of regional guides as well.

Thanks for any input you can offer on potential add-on destinations, guidebooks or other matters.

Posted by
2130 posts

I’ve wanted to go to India for years but keep putting it off. My only thoughts for you is to go with a reputable tour operator.
Check with your primary care provider for required immunizations. Be careful what you eat and drink.
A local medical group sent physicians and nurses there recently and they all got very sick.
I’m sure people travel there and return home without any illness suffered.

I’m going to bookmark this to see what info you get from those who have spent time in India.
I really want to go.
Good luck!

Posted by
27681 posts

Thanks, Diane. The tour is marketed by the Smithsonian. That's several steps ahead of the independent travel I did in Morocco back in the 1980s, from which I returned unscathed. I've already hit the CDC website for preliminary info and will consult both my GP and my gastroenterologist at my next appointments. If they suggest a traveler's clinic, I'll go there as well. I think my GP is from India, which could be very helpful in this situation.

The things you learn on the Internet: It turns out that people with Type O blood (that includes me) are much, much more likely to get significantly ill if they contract cholera. It might be smart in my case to get the cholera vaccine, though it's not necessarily recommended for casual visitors. The CDC does make more stringent recommendations for folks going to India to provide medical services.

Posted by
2130 posts

I figured you probably had the health and tour issues in your back pocket. I’m retired from Disease Control and Prevention and dealt with enough returning travelers and immigrants over the years to question if I wanted to risk a visit.

We had far more issues with imported illness from other countries than India, though.

Posted by
27681 posts

Thank you, Tom. I'm glad to know I don't have to press to squeeze in Bombay. That's a big help right there. The places you've mentioned positively are now targeted for immediate research.

This is what the tour brochure says about Kalakho: "Early today depart for Kalakho and the Dera Village Retreat. Enjoy an afternoon camel safari to meet the local Meena tribespeople in their homes." Then on the next day: "Travel to the village of Abhaneri to see the fortified Chand Boari stepwell (c. 800), whose 3,500 steps descend some 13 stories into the ground." Then the tour heads to Agra.

One of the Jaipur days has this description: "...enjoy a traditional yoga demonstration and chanting. In the nearby village of Sanganer, learn about traditional block printing and handmade paper industries, then experience the colorful sights and sounds of a local market. Enjoy an invitation to be dinner guests in the home of a multi-generational Rajasthan family."

There are three game drives at Ranthambore, but the brochure specifically warns that tiger and leopard sightings are not guaranteed.

I usually travel independently, in penny-pinching mode, and at a more leisurely pace, but this tour appears to offer a lot of experiences it wouldn't be easy, if even possible, for a solo traveler to arrange. I think the trade-offs will be worth it, and at 68 I really shouldn't be delaying trips to challenging destinations like India.

I have chronic gastro issues as it is and will certainly travel with all the appropropriate supplies. I didn't realize giardia was a particular issue in India, but it falls in the "been there/don't want to do it again" category (thanks to the tap water in Leningrad), so I'll add that to my list of topics to be discussed with my doctors.

Here's a link to the tour brochure if anyone is interested: Smithsonian Tour -- Mystical India.

Posted by
27681 posts

Thank you. I'm sharing all this information with my travel mate.

Posted by
1591 posts

Some thoughts.

Booking tickets now for a trip next Feb is way too early. Tickets to India for travel at that time should be fairly reasonable since you will not be traveling around the school holidays/Christmas when a lot of Indians will be going home. I have been going to India about 3 times a year for the past few years for different reasons. Just today i found flights from Chicago to Mumbai and returning from Bangalore for $740 for an upcoming April trip which is fairly cheap. You shouldn't have any issues getting a ticket for <$1,000 from the E coast. A few weeks back when i was checking I was seeing RT tickets on Air China to Delhi for around $580 from NY (this was before the virus issue came up). You have plenty of time to do your research and look to book a ticket in Oct/Nov. I have never paid more than $1100 when not traveling either over the summer holidays or Christmas - and flying out of Denver is normally a lot more expensive that flying from the E Coast where you have so many more options.

I would think Feb in the N of India would still be fairly cool - but do a check on the temps.

Looking at Google Maps - the Chand Baori Step well is fairly close to Jaipur (~2 hrs and <100 KM)

The one medicine I do take is malaria pills. Note that a lot of drugs including generic ones sold in the US are manufactured in India and hence are v cheap (pennies) in India and are easily bought without a prescription just in case you need some. Not sure how bad the mosquitoes will be in the N at that time so plan accordingly.

Posted by
8089 posts

I hope that India has revised its lawful visa process. We have been to Russia and China, but the Indian visa was the worst.

We did four ports in SW India and enjoyed it. India is a fascinating country, but be aware, it is very third world. The drives we were on the Indian highways were even more frightening than the roads in Egypt. We thought we would collide with another vehicle every minute or two. The people are friendly but begging is terrible. Be careful where you eat.

I would never go back unless we took a tour.

Posted by
27681 posts

The current e-visa process doesn't sound onerous: https://indianvisaonline.gov.in/evisa/tvoa.html. Still, with the cost of a tour hanging in the balance, I promise I won't leave that task till the last minute.

Arnold, I'm glad you've found the airfares generally reasonable. Unfortunately, from my origin many of the flight options are dreadfully long. Normally, I might consider a stopover in each direction to make the trip less unpleasant, but with my time limited due to a commitment in mid-January and worsening weather in much of India after the tour, I want to go with the fastest transportation available that doesn't involve risky, too-short connection times. There's one non-stop a day from Washington-Dulles to Delhi, but apparently no non-stops to any of India's other major cities. I suspect Delhi won't be the best airport to use at either end of the trip, but I want to be sure I don't get stuck with one of the nightmare routings for whatever gateway cities I end up needing to use.

The whole situation is complicated by the fact that I don't take commuter-airline flights in the US and am not about to take unnecessary ones in India, either. There's a round-trip flight (Delhi-Varanasi) embedded in the tour, so I'll just have to tolerate that one, no matter what name is on the outside of the planes.

Posted by
27681 posts

Thank for the additional tips. They are much appreciated.

I don't know how I'll react to some of what I'll see in India. Two of my aunts spent a bit of time in India as part of an around-the-world tour when they were about the age I am now. One of them was appalled (I guess by the poverty, crowding and dirt?); the more adventurous one found it fascinating. I'm not finicky and hope I'll be like the second aunt. I hadn't thought about the ravages of leprosy; that could be tough.

Posted by
3494 posts

@acraven-I hope you have a wonderful trip and would love to read about it when you return. It’s not a country for me and I consider myself somewhat adventurous. I would go on a tour, but have too many other places ahead of it.

Posted by
27681 posts

I don't object to long train trips but don't sleep well on trains, so night trains are not my first preference. I may need to go that way, though. I confess I'm a bit nervous about some passengers' habit of actually cooking food on trains. There have been at least two incidents with many people dying when those cooking fires got out of control on moving trains. That could be an issue on any long-distance train, not just night trains.

I'm glad to hear there's lots to see in Delhi since the tour begins there. I'll be happy to have an excuse to spend a good bit of time there, as opposed to zigging and zagging all over the country, changing hotels every 2 nights for my pre-tour time.

Posted by
1591 posts

I'm not sure why you wouldn't consider flying inside India - flights are plentyful and cheap. Most of my internal segments have cost me between $30 and $50. Sometimes a little more. And these are all modern aircraft - generally Airbus 320s or Boeing 737s.

Direct flights from NA to India - as far as I know, UA flies direct daily from Newark to Bombay and Delhi. I believe Delta has recently restarted their flights from JFK. Not sure if AA has any direct flights. Air Canada also flies to Delhi and Bombay from Toronto but some of these maybe seasonal. Air India also flies to lots of cities in the US (Chicago, SFO, etc.) but I haven't heard great things about their service and aircraft. A quick check shows the only direct flight from IAD is on Air India to Delhi and they fly on certain days of the week. Your alternative is to connect somewhere - either in the US or Europe. I either fly via Newark or more often fly Denver to Munich and then onto Bombay - this is quick and easy for me - just 1.5 hours connection - so v efficient. Or you can connect in the Middle East.

Re: flights being long - there is no way around this given that India is exactly half way around the world from Denver. You will have it easier as you are about 4 hours closer. I generally have a 10 hr flight to Munich followed by another 8 hrs to Bombay and this is not counting the time to get to the airport and the connection time. Overall, it normally takes me around 26 hrs to get where I am going, and almost 32 hours on the way back due to the connections.

Posted by
27681 posts

Arnold, I didn't say I wouldn't fly. I said I don't take commuter flights in the US and will avoid them in India. I like planes flown by well-paid, experienced pilots. I haven't researched Indian aviation and don't at this point know whether there are airlines other than Air India I'd be comfortable with.

I suppose I can consider breaking the return journey somewhere for a few days. I'll have extra time then.

Tom, I'm quite sure you aren't allowed to cook on Indian trains. Nonetheless, people do it. There have been horrible tragedies. This one may have been related to cooking, though the article doesn't specify that: https://www.irishtimes.com/news/at-least-38-feared-dead-in-indian-train-fire-1.477265. I know there was at least one earlier incident caused by cooking. It was quite some time ago, probably more than 10 years ago. Last year there was a similar disaster in Pakistan, with cooking implicated; over 70 people died. There are always risks to travel, but one shouldn't have to worry that a passenger in the next compartment is going to set a can of Sterno alight.

Posted by
1591 posts

If you are looking for stopovers, consider some of the airlines that give you a free stay for minimal extra $. I have been considering Qatar Airways - you can stop in Doha for a day or two and I believe they will provide the hotel. Definitely go visit the Museum of Islamic Art if you go this route. Turkish Airlines may also have a similar program.

Check out this recent posting https://frequentmiler.boardingarea.com/the-best-stopover-deals-worldwide/?utm_source=BoardingArea&utm_medium=BoardingArea

Posted by
8089 posts

I lived in Saudi Arabia from 81-85 and at the old Riyadh airport you could see the shell of an airplane off the runway. Was told it was a destroyed by a fire, started by a Pakistani trying to cook something on their way home to Pakistan.

Posted by
1017 posts

India is one of my favorite places to visit, although I do agree with some of the other posters, it is sensory overload. A tour is a good way to explore India. You can travel independently there, but it is a big challenging to navigate and I would recommend that if you do travel independently that you hire reputable guides to help you navigate the cities that you are visiting.

A couple of additional thoughts for you trip:

  • The tourist visa process is really easy. I have entered the country from the US in Bangalore, Dehli, and Mubai using this visa process.
  • Fly, don't take the train if you are going any substantial distances. Trains in India are not for the faint of heart, nor is any public transportation.
  • Try to carry small dominations of rupees in addition to larger bills. It will be easier for you to buy things.
  • The biggest issue when I have take a tour group is the other group members who don't use common sense when the take out their money. You will be accosted on the street by beggars and they will leave you alone if you say no firmly and walk away. If you are with a group of people who show any money, they won't leave you alone. It breaks my heart to see people begging and if it does yours, there are reputable charities that you can give to, but I don't give money on the street.
  • Walking in India is an adventure, especially in the cities. As short stroll can be a hazard between cars, cows, and stray dogs. Keep your eyes open and be extra cautious as you cross the road.

In terms of different places to visit, it looks like your tour takes you to Northern India, so I would consider Southern India for the rest of your trip. I have never been to Kerala, but that is on my agenda for the next time around. There are two other places that I have been to, however, that I enjoyed and would go back.

  • Goa: It is 2 hour 30 minute flight from Dehli. It is a blend of Indian and Portuguese cultures, with beautiful beaches, great food, and a different side of India that you will see in the North. It is not someplace I would spend the full 2 weeks, but if you want a vacation from your vacation, Goa is it.
  • Orange County/Coorg India. I went to an offsite here a couple of years ago at a coffee plantation and you could easily spend a week. You are near jungles, coffee plantations with the ability to do both land (jungle hikes) and water. The resorts here are so relaxing, again another place if you want a vacation from your vacation. In addition, because you are in smaller towns/villages, while the towns are busy, they are not the chaos of what you will see in Dehli, Agra, etc.

Enjoy your travels to India.
Sandy

Posted by
1352 posts

My thought is that if Coronavirus hits India its going to kill thousands.

Posted by
468 posts

I've been to India once. 3/4 years ago. Pretty much the same itinerary you are doing. I absolutely adored India. Would love to go again, but have so many other places I haven't been at all, that I haven't managed to get back yet.

I went with a UK tour group www.justyou.co.uk. Its their holiday called "Spirit of India". And I did their Amritsar add-on. Amritsar was really the icing on the cake - just fabulous, only 5 of us did this add-on and we had 2 guides between us.

At Varanasi we did 2 trips on the river, at twilight and then the following morning at sunrise. It was an incredible experience. Even getting to the river side by mad bike rides through the town was amazing.

Jaipur, which I had thought I would really enjoy, didn't really live up to expectations (for me anyway).

The Taj Mahal, which I had thought would be a bit of a, been there, seen that, experience was really surprising - I think its the only big sight I've seen that has exceeded expectations when I got there - don't know why. Several of my group got emotional just to see it - cant explain, it just does that.

Loved the tiger hunts at Ramthambore. For the early morning trip it gets surprisingly cold, so take lots of layers to add on - really wish I taken more, I was frozen. We were split up into different jeeps. Some were very lucky and saw tigers on all three trips, some none at all. I saw tigers on one of the trips, but unfortunately my photographic skills are so poor that I only managed a back view.

Would love to go again, I have a friend who is doing 2 of the tour companies trips back to back shortly, including their tiger trail trip, I'm so jealous.

Another quick point to mention. Don't do too much rail travel. Its hard work. We had a trip during the main tour for a few hours and it was a great experience. However, we went to our Amritsar add-on (from Delhi) by train (flew back) the journey took 6 hours by rail. We were knackered by then (end of 2 weeks touring), all had Delhi belly to some degree and it really wasn't fun. We'd done a train trip earlier and that last trip really was too much. (And we were in first class.)

Yes there are some challenging sights and sound and smells …..

But India is a wonderful experience. I'm sure you will have a great time.

Katy

Posted by
27681 posts

I appreciate everyone's comments. I've been reading an old, photo-rich guidebook I bought ages ago. Every area sounds fascinating, but I think I'll have to choose no more than two areas for my pre-tour time and one for the shorter post-tour stay, so it's going to be frustrating--sort of like going to Italy for two weeks. India is just so large.

Like all tours, this one rushes through places a lot faster than I would choose to. I'll need to show up in Delhi (the starting point) a few days early, and I think I'll have to make my own visit to Agra to see Fatehpur Sikri, because there doesn't seem to be enough free time during the tour's Agra stop to get out there. I suspect I could spend all my pre-tour time (roughly two weeks, I'm guessing) in Delhi and Rajasthan. I'm not usually that typical a tourist, but there just seems to be so much to see in that area. Maybe this won't be my only trip to India.

Posted by
4 posts

Gulmarg- tourist town for the British during the Raj. Highest golf course in world. Cool in summer at the foothills of the Himalaya. Nicest people.

Posted by
56 posts

India is one of my favourite countries, however I did not like Delhi at all. I regretted spending extra days there. Loved Varanasi and Jaipur. It was one of those places that is so completely overwhelming that it took me weeks after my trip to finally absorb it all. I have been to many other countries and none affected me like India has!
One of the most valuable pieces of advice we were given was this: Normally when we travel and encounter beggars/scam artists/vendors is to say "No thank you" in the native language and keep walking. This did not work for us in India. We were followed and touched relentlessly. "No" did not seem to mean "no". When we met up with our tour group, the guide said that "No" means "maybe". He said when people come up to you, you have to "look through them" and ignore completely. Don't talk, don't engage, pretend you don't even notice them. Worked like a charm. But felt awful doing it. So far we have only needed to use that tactic in India. When we went to Nepal later on it was completely different (no meant no).

Posted by
27681 posts

Thank you; that sounds like a good tip. I've been though something a bit similar in Morocco, where everyone wanted to be our guide, to the point that it as impossible to have a conversation with you travel mate as you walked down the street.