What Hawaiian island should we see next?! Molokai?

I go to Hawaii practically every year but haven’t made it to Molokai yet. Kauai is my favorite so I generally go there. Molokai was on my bucket list but didn’t make it when I was in Maui since there is a ferry from Lahaina (or at least there was one). Or you can fly from HNL. In preparation for the trip I did some research and saw several videos about it, I’m sure you can find some online. Car rentals are expensive, so get ready for that, and accommodations are few, but I don’t think congestion is an issue.

There's no traffic lights on Molokai; so parking congestion is kind of a funny thought. I don't think your experience on any of the other islands will be like Molokai.

We go to the Big Island and Kauai on a regular basis. Have not been to Molokai. From what I’ve heard, it's the place to go for a quiet, laid back experience. It’s not the mega resorts, car traffic experience of some of the other islands and it sounds like even cell service is limited. You might want to do some more Internet research or since your daughter is in Hawaii ask for local advice on what a trip there would be like.

If you can get a flight from Oahu to Moloka’i that flies past the 1,700-foot cliffs go. Make sure you nab a window seat on the left facing the cockpit.
I’ve spent a couple nights on Moloka’i and rented a Fiat 500 and thought I owned the road. Hardly anyone visits Moloka’i, so you share it with locals who live on it. Other than eating bad food and expensive lodging, here is what you have to look forward to.
The best hike is to Kalaupapa National Historical Park where you’ll see a misty backdrop of mountains extending into the sea. Dress for rain because this is a rain forest.
The beaches are empty, so you’ll have it all to yourself. I don’t recommend swimming due to strong currents.

We've been to Hawaii over 20 times, and have visited all of the islands. Agree, that the big island is wonderful. It's been years since we've been to Molokai. Riding the donkeys down to the former Hansen Disease area, down the tallest sea cliffs in the world, was breathtaking. Back then, Dining options are extremely limited. I'm not sure how it is now. We also visited Lanai, which was really nice, but there were only 2 Four Seasons hotels on the island when we went there. I'm not sure if it is open now for tourism since they were remodeling the hotels.
Good luck!

https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Molokai#Q193253
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molokai

I have not been to Molokai, but I do turn to Wikipedia and WikiVoyage for reliable information when I'm researching destinations. (At least it's a start.)
I would recommend buying a guidebook to Hawaii that has thorough coverage of all the islands. That would be Lonely Planet....excellent guidebooks.

Hmmm, Rebecca, that sounds like the advice I've given many. ;) I have done some research on this. The guidebooks we have used for Hawaii are the Revealed set. However, he does not have one that includes Molokai. Lonely Planet's, like the few other travel writers, include a little chapter on Molokai in their Maui books. We've already been to Maui so not in the market for more books especially when the Molokai chapters are very slim. Amazon has one guidebook strictly on Molokai and its been reviewed by two people and given "ones" because it is so out of date. I wasn't familiar with WikiVoyage, so thank you for that suggestion.

@Roberto, I appreciate your thoughts. It is my understanding that, at this time, there is no ferry to Molokai from Laihana. I was super surprised to see that Hawaiian doesn't go there. I've been hearing that there is no ferry to Lanai, either, but I know there were people going to Lanai when we were in Maui. I do think a tour operator does day trips there.

@KD and Margie, Molokai does sound like it would be a nice break from the hustle and bustle of the other islands. When we were in Maui last year they said tourist numbers were down. Which was incredible given we had trouble finding a place to park for Kaanapali Beach and the traffic in Kihei.

@Mary Pat, thank you so much for the hike suggestion!

If you are interested in learning about the history of Kalaupapa, Moloka’i before your trip:

• Kalaupapa, A Collective Memory by Anwei Skinsnes Law
• Moloka’i by Alan Brennert (historical fiction)
• No Footprints in the Sand by Henry Kalalahilimoku Nalaielua (memoir)

Weighing in as a long time Hawaii resident (Kauai).
While Molokai is indeed a uniquely laid-back experience if you just want to chill out for a few days, be aware that Kalaupapa National Historical Park has been closed to visitors for quite some time. The mule ride isn't operating at the moment. As I recall you need a permit from the NPS to hike into the peninsula and they're extremely difficult (or impossible) to get unless you know someone locally who can sponsor your visit.
Might be better (IMHO) to further explore parts of the Big Island you may not have yet been to. We spend a week or so every year on the northern tip of the island - the area between Hawi and Kamuela - and it's become our favorite winter destination. Lots of beautiful scenery up there without the crowds that tend to congregate in and around Kailue, Hilo, and the Volcano.

Hi Jules, I lived on Maui for 3 years and went to Molokai once. We did the mule ride down the sea cliffs into Kalaupapa, which is the former Leper colony. You can also just hike down the sea cliffs. Molokai was one of my favorite experiences when I lived there. However, this was 24 years ago! For me, it was a magical place. Like stepping back into time! What Hawaii must have been like 50 years ago before all the development. I can’t speak about the beaches as I am not a beach person. If you do go and can get into the Leper colony, be sure to watch Father Damien or read the historical fiction book Molokai. It will give you a good background on what happened there.

@Accidental Southerner, thanks for the book recommendations

@Robert, OH NO!!! That is great information, thank you. Yes, it looks like I will have to check out the big island some more. We didn't get my daughter to the botanical gardens on the Hilo side, and she would love it. Our frustration with the big island was that its so big! ;) We liked snorkeling at 2 steps, but its really not close to much else. I'd like to snorkel at Captain Cook, but I think that hike is too much. Would love to go back to Volcano and see Kilauea if it is erupting, it quit the day we arrived a couple years ago! We loved the Hilo side, but wouldn't want to commit for an extended time because we would want to ensure some sun for part of the time. I'll check out "your" area a bit. Last time we were at Waikola, and it was not really our type of place. We also stayed in Hilo for a few days. Loved it there, but, would worry about weather. When we were there it was sunny every day, but we were told that was unusual.

We may want to go back to Kauai again sometime, but only to the area by Hanalei. We didn't get to go into Na Pali, last time. Would love to hike there.

@Tammy, thanks for your comments. We are not beach people other than snorkeling or doing a bit of wading. We never sit on the sand. Would you go to Molokai even if Kalaupapa area is closed to visitors?

Jules, I would go back to Molokai even if Kalaupapa was closed, but thats because I have been there already. It would be a great place to just “chill” and see the undeveloped Hawaii. I would combine it with a visit to one of the other islands.

Actually, 2 Steps is right next to Puuhonua National Park, which is worth a stop, and the little bay there is one of the prettiest little snorkeling spots on the Island
Can park at the NP lot, visit the park itself, and then grab your gear and walk around to the beach ...which is a sandy, relatively shallow (ie easy entry and egress) and calm place to snorkel.

@Robert, yes , that historic park is excellent! It is important to my daughter to learn as much as possible about the history and culture of the state before she finishes her degree.

Isn’t the snorkeling place right next to the historical park, two step? What I meant was I’m not sure that area would make a good base.

@Robert and Tammy, I think I may call the park service for more details about the Molokai historic park.

Since you sound like experienced snorkelers ... one particular outing that my wife still talks about years later is a boat dive with a local company to swim with the manta rays at night. The tour caters to both SCUBA qualified divers and casual snorkelers, and although we did it with tanks we noted that the water was so shallow that the snorkelers on our boat enjoyed the same show that we did. Our tour began a couple of hours before sunset and began with about an hour (in daylight) in one of the little bays on the west side, followed by a short break of maybe an hour to reposition the boat to the location where the rays hang out, and then an hour or so after dark watching the underwater ballet of several big mantas feeding on the plankton attracted by the lights from a nearby hotel.
It really was a once in a lifetime experience for us. Can recommend it highly.

My parents lived there for about 10 years, but Molokai has had its ups and down since Dole Corp. ceased operations years ago. The only current hotel option is Hotel Molokai near Kaunakakai. The other options are condos and you’d have to decide which location suits you best. Maunaloa is the former site of the Dole Corperation and closest to the airport in the middle of the island , Kaluakoi is at the southern end and has the better beaches (Ke Nani Kai is where the old Sheraton Hotel was located) and then there is PuuOHoku, which is an organic concern at Mile Marker 25 going east. At the east end of the island is Halawa Valley which is a hiking area. If your daughter is interested in the history of the island, you may want to stop at One Ali Park and see is an historic fishpond. There is the potential for lots of driving, but very little traffic.

You might want to take a look at The Molokai Dispatch website for information.

We spent an idyllic 5 days on Molokai with tween girls in 2003, staying in the eco-tents operated by the Sheraton hotel but 8 miles away, right on the rocky shore. A nice swimming beach was a half-mile walk away. The highlight was horseback riding, just the 3 of us riding with a paniolo guide (. my husband had no interest in
riding). It was like riding with friends on good, well-trained horses, not a nose-to tail trail ride; with beautiful views of the coastline and across the water.

Moloka’i Ranch is no more, and the hotel and coast side glamping cabins have been abandoned. The whole history of Moloka’i is a sad tale of exploitation of the local population and degradation of the land. The exploiters even carted off beach sand to Honolulu and Santa Monica, CA. It’s no wonder outsiders are resented by the locals.

You can read the sad story in articles such as these:

https://www.smithsonianmag.com/travel/why-molokai-least-developed-hawaiis-islands-180973019/

https://www.sfgate.com/hawaii/article/hawaii-billionaire-owner-molokai-ranch-18152398.php

The ranch has been up for sale since 2017 with no takers, but now a local community group is trying to find a way to purchase the property before another billionaire investor comes in and buys it with another huge development in mind. I hope they can succeed.

https://www.civilbeat.org/2022/08/the-community-is-mobilizing-again-to-buy-molokai-ranch-will-it-work/

If you are still thinking of a visit, make sure that what you read, whether online or in guidebooks, is current. I see a lot of outdated information on websites, such as promoting the mule rides which no longer exist, or hiking in Kalaupapa, which as mentioned above is not possible without a permit, and they are impossible to obtain.

https://www.gohawaii.com/islands/molokai/things-to-do

https://www.nps.gov/kala/planyourvisit/conditions.htm

I appreciate everyone's feedback. It sounds like the NPS and Hawaii might be getting close to an agreement for the park. Our daughter will be in Hawaii at least one more year. I think we have decided to table Molokai for now.

We are going to talk to our daughter when she is home for the holiday. We are considering going back to Kauai and staying in Hanalei or Princeton, so we can hike in Na Pali, or going back to the big island. When we were there the last time, Our daughter wasn't with us when we toured around Hilo. I think she'd enjoy the botanical gardens and the zoo. (She is a birder) Our difficulty with the big island is deciding where to stay since no area is really central. We'll want to go to 2 step again and also it is a little risky to stay on the Hilo side if we are wanting sunny weather. Yes, its always up to chance!