Utah?

Hi Jenny -
My husband and I have hiked all of the "Mighty 5" several times and, hands down, you'd be hard pressed to find a more breathtaking collection of visual experiences within a single state. That's not even including some of the wonderful state and local parks/hikes, such as Goblin Valley, Coral Pink Sand Dunes, Kodachrome Basin, Dead Horse Point, Calf Creek Falls, Fisher Towers....

The trouble is that the Big 5 are far enough apart that you can't do them all from a single base, nor can you do them well in just 4-5 days. The sort of time you need to spend on each may also depend on your interests.

Moab does make a great base for Arches and the Island in the Sky unit of Canyonlands, although we've hiked in the Needles unit, about 75 miles south, from there as well. Locally there is Dead Horse Point State Park, Fisher Towers (my favorite local hike), Corona Arch, Hidden Valley Trail and others begging for time in the boots. We can easily spend a week there, flying in and out of Grand Junction and renting a car (you do need to have a car). Anyway, yes you could manage those two N.P.s plus a little more from Moab with just 5 days.

Alternately, Zion and Bryce are close enough together to do both in 5 days: fly in and out of Las Vegas and rent a car. I don't recommend using either one as a base for the other as you want to be present at sunrises and sunsets, and driving between isn't recommended in the dark. So, fly into Vegas, drive to Bryce, spend two nights, then drive to Zion and spend another two before heading back to Vegas. Kodachrome Basin is spittin' distance from Bryce, or with another LONG day you could drive HWY 12 to Torrey and back for a look/short hikes at Capitol Reef. That drive is LOADED with scenery, and C.R. is an undervalued park with some terrific hikes.

Obviously I've concentrated on hiking...and that may not be your cuppa tea? You also do not want to go in summer - too hot and too darn busy - or winter, when Bryce can be inaccessible and snow/ice can complicate hiking/driving.

So what can you tell us about yourself that might help us suggest the right trip for you?

As Kathy said, there are several places to base yourself.

If it were me, I'd probably stay in Moab and visit Arches and Canyonlands. I love Moab - it's is a charming town, with many unique shops, cafes and restaurants. It's a fun place to base yourself and is very close to Arches and not too terribly far from Canyonlands. Also, it's nice to be able to head to Arches in the evening when the crowds are gone and you don't need to book a time to get in. I was there for 3 nights in early June last year and had a wonderful time. It was crowded then, but not terribly so.

Kathy and Mardee have lots of good advice. Zion/Bryce and Arches/Canyonlands are so far apart that you'd need two bases. The drive between them, through Capitol Reef and the Boulder Mountain Highway, is VERY scenic. But trying to do it all would give you so little time outside your car that I wouldn't try to do that. Pick one pair or the other. Moab is very convenient to Arches and Canyonlands. Springdale is at the mouth of Zion Canyon, Ruby's Inn is at the north entrance to Bryce. All are crowded, commercialized, typical national park gateway towns. Bryce and Zion have lodges where you can get closer to nature, but very expensive and they fill up way ahead. I'm assuming you don't plan to camp, but if you do I think you'll need to reserve ahead.

I'll put in a plug for Capitol Reef, the least-visited park, and the nearby town of Torrey. We keep going back there. It's a smaller park with good hikes, good indigenous wall paintings, a beautiful orchard in spring, not too crowded. And the Boulder Mountain Highway, US 12 south of Torrey, is one of North America's greatest scenic drives.

...it's nice to be able to head to Arches in the evening when the
crowds are gone and you don't need to book a time to get in.

Bryce and Zion have lodges where you can get closer to nature, but
very expensive and they fill up way ahead. I'm assuming you don't plan
to camp, but if you do I think you'll need to reserve ahead.

Mardee and Dick have brought up a couple of very important details! You need to have a strategy to visiting Arches during the busiest seasons (April through Oct.) when you need advance, timed-entry reservations to get in during peak hours (7 AM - 4 PM in 2023) That's easy enough to get around if you can get up and into the park before 7:00 (never been a problem for us), or do your visiting later in the day. Bring a cooler, beverage and lunch as there's no food available in the park. Same for all units of Canyonlands.

Zion: if you want to climb Angel's Landing, need to enter the lottery for a permit.

For stays in Springdale, Bryce or Moab, you want to make reservations WELL in advance, especially if you want to land accommodations that best suit your budget. Same for camping.

Know as well that you can't drive Zion Canyon in your own vehicle during most of the year: you'll be taking free shuttles from Springdale to the Visitor Center (or walking to the VC from town) and shuttles from there into scenic points/trailheads around the canyon. Bryce has a free shuttle system too although it's not mandatory to use.

Dick, I'll agree 100%: Capitol Reef is a terrific park. I'm sometimes afraid to tell people about it 'cause unless things have changed in the past 5 years or so, it hasn't become completely overrun yet! Fave accommodation in tiny Torrey: Chuck Wagon Hotel. Book EARLY. Fave potty stop along Hwy 12: Kiva Coffeehouse near Escalante. Fave adventure day from Torrey: Loop the Fold. The dirt sections of road MUST be dry, however so check with the park visitor center before setting out. Best hike along the way? Strike Valley.

https://www.nps.gov/care/planyourvisit/waterpocketdistrict.htm
https://www.earthtrekkers.com/how-to-loop-the-fold-capitol-reef/

Well even if the OP doesn’t come back, you can help me! We are also planning on the mighty 5 in Utah at the end of May, 2024. This is what I have so far. Would love suggestions for easy to moderate hikes with the best views. Nothing strenuous.
Fly in Vegas ( flights already booked,
we arrive at 6am), rent car, drive to Zion
O/N Zion lodge ( already have reservations for 2 nights)
Day 2-Hike
O/N Zion lodge
Day 3-drive to Bryce
O/N Bryce Canyon lodge ( already booked)
Day 4-hike early am, then drive to Torrey late afternoon
O/N in Torrey
Day 5-hike Capital Reef
O/N Torrey
Day 6-drive to Moab
O/N
Day 7-hike Arches
O/N Moab
Day 8-hike Canyonlands
O/N Moab
Day 9-drive to Park city to visit friends
O/N Park City
Then ending with a few days in SLC before we fly home from there

Tammy! Hi Tammy!
Omgosh, you're going to have such a great trip!
Yep, I have some great hikes to give you but I don't want to step on Jenny's toes here 'cause we still don't know if she's a hiker or not. What to do what to do.... ????

Kathy, you can PM me!

Yep, I have some great hikes to give you but I don't want to step on Jenny's toes here 'cause we still don't know if she's a hiker or not. What to do what to do.... ????

I think Jenny would be happy to hear it even if she doesn't use it. :) Most people who ask about Utah and national parks plan on doing some hiking, I would think. I'd be interested in hearing it, too, Kathy!!!

LOL, OK, i'll bite. As you can tell, I'm a little passionate (ya THINK?) about this topic so hope you're not sorry.

Tammy, it looks like you have set aside all of day 6 to drive from Torrey to Moab, yes?
Off of 24, north of Hanksville (I've actually spent 3 nights in Hanksville) is Goblin Valley State Park. As I wrote for another website, it is..."a barren, alien landscape of eerie hoodoos and melting pinnacles around a field of enormous, misshapen mushrooms and grotesque creature forms. The rising sun cast long, dark fingers onto scorched red earth; dead silence unbroken by the song of even a single bird. It is hideous, spectral, lifeless, bizarrely whimsical and altogether fascinating."

Take a wander (level and easy once you'd climbed down into the valley) if there hasn't been any recent rains to create a mudfield.

https://stateparks.utah.gov/parks/goblin-valley/discover/

Very nearby (off cnty 1013) is one dandy slot canyon hike: Little Wild Horse. We did the loop of LWH and Bell Canyon but you can do LWH as an out-and-back: it's the more scenic anyway, IMHO. We did have to wade a few pools- there had been some recent rain - but nothing very deep or scary, and I didn't think just the LWH part was overly strenuous. You are an experienced hiker so I don't need to beat you over the head about staying out of slots with ANY rain predicted for the region, eh?

https://www.utah.com/destinations/regions/the-holey-land/little-wild-horse-canyon/
https://www.earthtrekkers.com/little-wild-horse-canyon-bell-canyon-loop/

Duke's Slickrock Grill in Hanksville plates up a doggone good breakfast; same with lunches and dinners. Stan's Burger Shak, in the local gas/convenience store, makes killer shakes and malts + good sammies.

More to come! :O)

From Torrey to Moab....
However you end up on 70 heading east - whether you choose 24 or skip my last posted hikes and head north on 72 - it's well worth it not to get off on 191 into Moab but drive a bit past to 128. Much of that road parallels the Colorado River, and there is some really nice scenery out that way. My very favorite outside-the-parks hike is out there too: Fisher Towers.

You do need to be able to climb a bit (not hard or scary!) and this is a terrific morning hike (haven't done it late in the afternoon). No fee. Pack breakfast and enjoy it with the view at the end of the trail: we're bringing OJ and a split of bubbly next time for mimosas on a rock. 😋 The towers themselves draw lots of rock climbers. Pick a sunny day for best color!

https://www.visitutah.com/things-to-do/Hiking/Moab-Hiking/Fisher-Towers

Lots of photos in this link:
https://www.alltrails.com/trail/us/utah/fisher-towers-trail

If you take 191 into town, you can always drive out here on another day.
To be continued....

Hi, all -
Thank you for the tips! I’m thinking about going over kids’ spring break (April) to avoid summer heat.

I don’t mind hiking, but kids get whiny if I make them do too much of it. But feel free to post info for others as well!
I was initially planning on flying to Las Vegas. Not sure if we’ll fly home from there, or elsewhere. I do like having my own car, last summer we drove from Wisconsin to Yellowstone/Tetons in June and to Arizona in August. But obviously it’s a long drive and it’s cheap enough to fly to Las Vegas.
I enjoy camping, but we’d have to tent camp and kids will be whiny. I don’t mind hotels, cabins, air bnb, etc. so if you have a place you’d recommend, I’m all ears.

I don’t mind hiking, but kids get whiny if I make them do too much of
it. But feel free to post info for others as well!

I enjoy camping, but we’d have to tent camp and kids will be whiny

Jenny, here's the deal... If you want to visit the parks, exploring on foot (hiking) is really part of the program unless you or your kids have bonafide mobility issues that keep you behind a windshield. I'll be really honest about this but as you've mentioned more than once now that your kids are "whiny" if made to spend "too much" time on their feet, the Utah parks are not the trip for you. Same if they whine about having to tent camp versus stay in more expensive lodges or hotels, if that's what your budget can manage.

My husband and I are strictly day-hikers, and stay in hotels or rental apartments because we can afford to. Different deal. You might want to train your young folks to enjoy the Great Outdoors closer to home before worrying about how they'll deal with a hiking trip in a tent further from home? If they don't 'take' to it, then the US parks might not be your kind of family trip.

Trying again, Jenny. My previous reply may have sounded a bit harsh and I certainly did NOT mean it that way. I'm just concerned that your family have a great trip versus one that's stressful if the kids aren't enjoying it; you sounded as if you were concerned about that as well. Moms need R&R time too! Make sense? :O)

Another thing you're up against is trying to it during Spring Break: a busy time for the parks but I get it; with kids, you're pretty much restricted to summer vacation or spring/holiday breaks.

You don't HAVE to hike for miles and miles every day but footwork is the main activity at all of them. BTW, how old are your kids? You hadn't mentioned them in your first post so I wasn't aware that it was a family trip. Have you ever done a National (or state) park trip before?

We’ve done loads of national parks, I’m not worried about that. Most recently last summer Yellowstone/Tetons and then much of Arizona. Maybe “whiny” wasn’t the right word, but they aren’t huge hikers. Would do some, but they aren’t going to want to be at it all day.

My daughter is 15, niece (who most often joins us) is 13.

I know it will be busy on their spring break, but our other option is the summer heat, and that won’t be any less crowded!
We just returned a week ago from Rome/Florence/Venice and survived the heat, crowds, walking everywhere!

Kathy, thank you for those tips! However, I’m certainly NOT an expert hiker!
I had heard of Goblin and Wild Horse and had them in our itinerary if we have time.

Would love the names of specific hikes in the parks that are scenic, easy to moderate.

Also, I am wondering about food options in the park or do most people take a cooler? We are also bringing our two kids (17 & 20) on this trip and don’t want to spend a fortune on eating 3 meals out a day.

Happy Tuesday, Tammy. :O)
Food in the parks: there is NO food at Arches or the Island in the Sky unit of Canyonlands (which is the unit closest to Moab so the one you're likely doing). Other than maybe heading into Moab from Arches for supper and then back to the park for evening, you don't want to leave either one just to eat. Besides, you're not going to get a better view than lunch (or breakfast or dinner) from your pack or cooler. We usually only eat out once every day (evening dinner) and make do with instant-oatmeal/granola brekkies and Protein Bars/gorp/fruit/etc. lunches from our day packs. Sometimes a sammie. It depends how close we are to the car when we get hungry! Always, always pack along beverages, and don't forget to hydrate!! This is a very arid region.

Arches picnic areas:
https://www.nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/eatingsleeping.htm

Trails: we've done all of them listed on the park's hiking section, from easy/short to longer/more strenuous, over 3 different trips. We loved the longer hikes but with just a day, I'd opt for any of the shorter ones; none of them are difficult. Skip Balanced Rock 'cuz you can see it from the car. Of the longer hikes, Delicate Arch is the classic, and it's fun to be up there for sunset! If not up to hauling yourself up the slickroack, do Lower Delicate Arch Viewpoint for a backside look at Utah's iconic natural feature.

https://www.nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/maps.htm

Canyonlands IITS picnic areas (locate them on this map):
https://www.nps.gov/cany/planyourvisit/upload/IslandRoadsandTrails2022_forweb.pdf
They've also listed and rate various hikes below the map: scroll down. We've done all of the easy and moderates: Aztec Butte is a bit of climb so maybe skip that one?

If you do Island in the Sky, Dead Horse Point State park is right along the way so it's easy to combine the two. It has a very nice visitor center/gift shop, and offers some easy mesa-top rambles with stupendous views. Also has a picnic area. No food.
https://stateparks.utah.gov/parks/dead-horse/
https://www.discovermoab.com/dead-horse-point-state-park/
https://www.discovermoab.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/dead-horse-point-state-park-brochure.pdf

A fun bit of trivia: Thelma and Louise were filmed sending their car off an edge of Dead Horse and not the Grand Canyon. 😱

Breakfast: We have treated ourselves to a bang-up breakfast at the Jailhouse Cafe, and the Moab Diner (been a staple for years) has yummy options for a more economical price.

Gotta give this one a plug 'cause it's been our go-to on looooong hike days when we're filthy (and maybe a little stinky) but too shot and too hungry to clean up first. We're never the only ones at Milts in that sort of shape: if you didn't get sort of grubby knocking about this part of the country, you didn't have enuf fun. A local mainstay since 1954, it's easy on the budget and has a patio.

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g60724-d403397-Reviews-Milt_s_Stop_Eat-Moab_Utah.html
https://miltsstopandeat.com

More T/C.

Apologies for not getting back to you with stuff on Zion, Bryce and Capitol Reef hiking; been a little busy lately!

Zion: We were mostly rained out on our last trip. An approaching heavy storm closed the more strenuous trails we'd had on agenda, and ended up closing the park for a time + washing out some roads when it hit. Over a couple of trips we've covered all of the easy and moderate hikes plus The Narrows. If the water level/flow rate is low - as it was when we did it - the Narrows is great fun and not what I'd call difficult as long as you have the right footwear and a pole to help keep you upright on the stony, slippery river bottom. Going upstream, against current, is slower than heading back to the trailhead at the end of Riverside Walk. The park will close this "trail" if rain is in the forecast or it's otherwise not safe. As well, check with the rangers on water depth and skip this one if parts are chest high or deeper. If you do it, rent your equipment at Zion Adventure Company in Springdale the day before, and get into the river early in the day to avoid the worst of the crowds who think this is just a wade in the water.

https://www.nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/zion-canyon-trail-descriptions.htm
https://www.zionadventures.com/the-zion-narrows.html

There is food at the lodge's restaurant - Red Rock Grill - plus their cafeteria-type cafe with no indoor seating. The grill - have only done once for breakfast and wouldn't do again as it took FOREVER to be served - can be VERY busy but the cafe is OK if you don't want to pack along your lunches. The cafe's patio + lawn in the front of the lodge are both scenic places for chowing down. With a car you can head into Springdale for dinner, if desired. We've enjoyed Zion Pizza and Noodle, and Bit and Spur.

https://www.nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/eatingsleeping.htm

You will be using a free park shuttle to access Zion Canyon/s trailheads, although overnight guests at the lodge will be walking distance from some of them. https://www.nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/zion-canyon-shuttle-system.htm

Park brochure:
https://www.nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/upload/ZionUnigrid.pdf

Bryce: the rim trail is scenic and very easy as are the walks from parking areas out to numerous overlooks. Bristlecone Loop is easy as well but not as scenic as the Rim, IMHO. The classic Bryce hike is Queen's Garden+ Navaho Trail combination loop. We've done it from either end, and it'll be a bit of a puff going uphill back to the rim at either end but just take your time. It's a fun wander about the hoodoos at the bottom of the canyon. :O)

https://www.nps.gov/tripideas/easy-hikes-in-bryce-canyon.htm
https://www.nps.gov/tripideas/moderate-hikes-in-bryce-canyon.htm
https://www.nps.gov/brca/planyourvisit/qgnavajocombo.htm

This park hasn't ever enacted a timed-entry reservation mandate but has become busy enough that they've posted today that, "The park is currently full, and we are temporarily delaying vehicle entry into the park. We will update this alert when the restriction is lifted. Shuttle in Bryce Canyon City or utilize Shared-use Path to enter park."

Park Brochure:
https://www.nps.gov/brca/planyourvisit/upload/Bryce_Canyon_Visitor_Guide_508.pdf

We haven't eaten anywhere at the park so I'm sadly no help in that department. :O(

One more post TC about Capitol Reef.....

Consider some time in Salt Lake City.
We did the Tabernacle Choir while there this summer and it was wonderful.
Also, recommend visiting the Mormon Trail village outside of the city.

Capitol Reef:
As I'd mentioned earlier, that drive on 12 from Bryce to Torrey is KILLER: very, VERY scenic. You'll want to pull over here and there to take in the views. This is also a drive you do not want to make in the dark as there's free-range livestock here and there, and some of the ranging cattle are black and would be difficult to see at night.

https://www.visitutah.com/Articles/The-All-American-Road-Scenic-Byway-12

If there is time, the hike to Lower Calf Creek Falls is fun.
Stop for a potty, coffee and maybe a sammie or bakery treat: Kiva Koffeehouse near Escalante:
https://www.kivakoffeehouse.com

Aside from jellies, jams and yummy fruit pies sold at Gifford House in the Fruita section of Capitol Reef - made from the orchards early pioneers planted in the 1880s - there is no food at the park so bring your own and picnic or eat in Torrey. For suppertime we like an outdoor table at Rimrock Patio: fun, very casual, inexpensive spot for watching the cliffs blaze bright red and orange towards late afternoon/evening. Not to be confused with the finer-dining Rimrock Restaurant.
http://therimrock.net/casual-dining-restaurant/
http://therimrock.net/patio-menu/

Hikes: we've done all the easy and moderates listed on the website:
https://www.nps.gov/care/planyourvisit/trailguide.htm

Tammy, as you're going to Arches, you can skip Hickman Bridge. Capitol Gorge is a fun, easy 2-mile RT out-and-back through a slot canyon; avoid if there is rain in the forecast. This was once the "road" the Fremont people (you will see some petroglyphs they left behind over 1000 years ago) and early Mormon settlers used to access hunting grounds and rich farmland along the river. Grand Wash is also fun and easy but also to be avoided if it might rain.

I'll give Cohab Canyon special mention as it's probably my favorite: a dandy with lots of visual drama! It does involve a bit of a climb at the beginning but is well worth the puff up. I would take this trail as far as the junction with Frying Pan trail - the section beyond that isn't visually as impactful, IMHO - and do some of Frying Pan too: a scenic ramble over slickrock.. Then backtrack the way you came.

Fremont River Trail also involves a bit of a climb but pays off in an expansive, 360-degree panorama. The trail cuts through the old orchards before ascending up the cliffside. Lastly, Sunset Point/Panorama Point is short and sweet and where to end the day (along with a lot of other shutterbugs!)

Hope this helps. :O)