Here is a little trip report! Originally I was looking at St. John's In Newfoundland for about a week long trip over the 4th of July. I had started planning in January and with the situation in the Middle East looking ever more worrisome, I by serendipity stumbled on the SPM tourist site.
Which is about the only place you can find information! But it's comprehensive and I used it exclusively for planning. I really wanted to immerse myself in the French language. I'm moderately fluent, but as is typical can understand a lot more than I can grammatically say correctly!
There is a ferry from Fortune so if you do go to Newfoundland you can add on a few days. Or, there's Air St Pierre that flies a turboprop plane twice weekly from either Montreal, Halifax- or Paris! It was incredibly expensive: $1200 USD roundtrip from Montreal for me, solo, plus getting myself to Montreal from the PNW.
I have 2 shiny new stamps in my passport, now that I'm back! "Outre Mer" France. It has a fascinating history. Everyone bought baguettes and croissants every morning! All the stores (not many) and services closed from noon til 2, nothing is open Sunday and I think the restaurants may've been open again at 3:00. They use the euro and the French and EU flags are everywhere. I was expecting something akin to Victoria, BC but no- you are really in France!
I was so fortunate with the weather. I was there a week and the high hovered just under 60 degrees. I am so glad I took my wind and waterproof rain jacket, I wore it most of the time over a lightweight sweater.
I did some beautiful hikes (including through the only boreal forest in France!) after taking the ferry to Miquelon, a much smaller town. I rented a bike and rode out the long peninsula to Langlade. I think it's the most restful vacation I've had!
The doors aren't locked. Everyone said "bonjour" to me, even kids and teenagers :). I took an English language tour to Ile aux Marins with 2 lovely Canadian couples. My zodiak bird (and whale) watching tour was all in French. I loved that.
If you love all things French you might consider St Pierre and Miquelon- I was trying to decide if it is a "Back Door" but given how remote it is from anything, let alone European France I don't think so :)
Posted by
Moncton NB
1534 posts
Thanks for the report. We live in New Brunswick and SPM is definitely on our bucket list.
Posted by
Ontario, Canada
4760 posts
Thanks for the trip report. I am another Canadian who hasn't explored this part of the region before either.
Posted by
OP
West Coast
499 posts
https://en.spm-tourisme.fr/stay/getting-here/
Oh, you absolutely should! I think most of their visitors are from Canada. My day trip tour companions were from Toronto and Vancouver (the latter also quite a distance!).
You'll need euros :)
Posted by
London
1603 posts
Thanks so much for sharing this, I am always fascinated by these unexpected little enclaves, and have long wondered what this place was like. It is also interesting to me how France has always considered these overseas areas French territory. I was once on a plane that had to make an unscheduled stop on Réunion and it was so funny to switch on my phone while in the middle of the Indian Ocean and get a text saying "Welcome to France"!
Posted by
L'Occitanie, France
11955 posts
Thank you so much. Despite having many French friends who have spent years living overseas or who are well travelled, you are the first person I have read who has gone to Saint Pierre et Miquelon. We see its weather reported by Météo France during our evening news here in what’s called Metropolitan France. And my knowledge of it is limited to fish canning factories.
You’ve described a very interesting place, even more so as it’s not in a heatwave, neither the North American, nor the Metropolitan France one.
Posted by
OP
West Coast
499 posts
Merci! I am just so happy to read your responses. The history of the archipelago ( actually 8 islands, but only 3 inhabited) is just fascinating to me.
A history buff and lover of finding connections through travel I first learned about the Basque cod fishermen ( and their drying technique that enabled long sea voyages) and then in Bergen, more cod connection and, just now, on Isle au Marins just off the port of St. Pierre.. The cod drying stone front yards are still in place and it very much reminded me of the Outer Hebrides in Scotland-the isolation, the biting wind and the harsh (beautiful!) landscape. Les pieds rouges from wading out in that frigid water was an apt nickname (vs les pieds verts for those on St. Pierre)!
Le Grand Derangement saw over 10,000 inhabitants of L'Acadie forced by the English to leave- many to Montreal or Louisiana, and most did not return.
There is an absolutely grisly story (made into a movie) about an execution by guillotine in St. Pierre, the only ever performed in North America. To conform to French law the authorities had to find one- they did, in Martinique- and it eventually arrived, albeit in poor repair...alcohol proved more lucrative than cod during Prohibition! The beautifully curated little museum has a room devoted to this chapter of SPM history.
You can feel the presence of the Catholic church everywhere.
Besides all the history the hikes were fantastic. There's some on St. Pierre but Miquilon and Langlade have more.
Flying to France would have been faster and less expensive! I only had 8 days, though and am fortunate to have been to France a number of times. I thought often about the current brutal heat situation as I walked in my sweater and coat along the coast.
I think the weather I experienced was atypical, especially for early July. Summer really arrives later, there. Another thing: the rugosa roses that just blanket the landscape were not quite yet blooming. I can only imagine that scent and sight!
Thank you again for reading my trip report!
Posted by
Northwest Arkansas
1173 posts
We just returned from a trip to Prince Edward Island. While the we visited the town of Souris (pronounced surry) and watched the ferry depart for the Iles de la MadelIne. These islands are part of Quebec rather than one of the nearby Maritime provinces.
Posted by
W. Washington
107 posts
It's wonderful to see a trip report from SPM.
I've been intrigued by it for several years, it's definitely on my bucket list. I hope I can get there someday.
Posted by
Chicagoland
2516 posts
Thanks for sharing your trip report. I've seen bits and pieces about St. Pierre and have been curious about it. What a unique experience you've had.
Posted by
OP
West Coast
499 posts
Merci pour tous vos responses!
There is a Canadian police detective show that inspired the visit for the Toronto couple on my day tour! I believe it's in its third season.
I wonder if and how the increasing numbers of cruise ships will have an impact...cruise passengers, a group of about 75, were on Ile aux Marins at the same time as "my" small group of 5 + guide on the very small local ferry. I don't know how they got them there and back, we did have to wait a bit for the return ferry.
Later, with their lanyards, the tour group was seen wandering en masse around the port area of St. Pierre and they did go in and out of the several shops. It's the same push-pull of any cruise port situation, though...