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Skipping bali for wilder indonesia - Luwuk banggai and labuan bajo

Making this for everyone who plan for Indonesia trip and all they do is Bali for a week (maybe few days in Lombok) and think thats all Indonesia! it is soooo not..
There are so many destinations worth exploring but sadly not much information in English and most of them catered to local population. You really have to go deep in the social media rabbit hole especially instagram since most of information I found was on insta about these destinations. People use it more than blogs or travel guides/tripadv etc surprisingly.

we just got back and i'm posting because i went looking for trip reports on Luwuk Banggai islands in Sulawesi beforehand and found almost nothing, so maybe this is useful to someone. we got a direct flight into bali and then used bali purely as the hub. the real trip was two guided legs, six days in luwuk banggai in central sulawesi and three in labuan bajo on flores. both booked through a local Indonesia operator, asik travel.
Honestly you can do parts of it without any guides but the hassle to reward ratio is pretty low. I think if I was going as backpacker and ultra low budget - I would have done some parts myself and saved couple hundred bucks haha

the Indonesia itinerary, roughly:

day 1: land in bali (denpasar), overnight near the airport. long flight, so we didn't attempt anything.
day 2: bali to luwuk, connecting through makassar. it's basically a full day in airports. got in around dinnertime. I still don't understand why don't they offer bali to sulawesi direct flights? would solve the major pain point and get droves of tourists. win win for locals and for foreginers!
days 3 to 8: Luwuk banggai tour. the first day was around Luwuk itself, salodik waterfall and the town, then we headed out to the Banggai islands for island hopping. Paisu pok lake was where we flew the drone and was the highlight of the trip, the water was glacier level clear. We also swam in the stingless jellyfish lake, snorkeled a few reefs, and stopped at some bajau stilt villages. saw the Banggai cardinalfish too, which apparently only lives in that area. Swam with a whale shark (yep, apparently it just live around the area and friendly with people!).
day 9: fly luwuk back to bali via makassar, overnight in bali. another long transit day, worth planning for. I really hate the transit flights!
day 10: short flight bali to labuan bajo, then a rest afternoon. sorted gear and had an early night before the boat days.
days 11 to 13: Labuan Bajo tour which was mostly by phinisi boat into komodo national park. padar island at sunrise, the komodo dragons with a ranger on rinca, manta point for snorkeling and pink beach. long days on the water but genuinely worth it. Its the best place for romantic dinner with my partner :)
Flores island waters had the best snorekeling spots!
day 14: labuan bajo back to bali. had some relaxing time in a bali resort which was much needed.
day 15: bali, then home.

Having said all that it was not all amazing. the internal flights and transfers eat up more of your trip than you'd expect so don't run this on a tight schedule. Luwuk banggai is properly remote and there isn't much english once you land, which is where a guide earned its keep, ours spoke good english and knew the area. it's also hot and humid, so the early morning starts end up being a relief more than a chore. Depends on the season you go in I guess.

the Banggai island especially was the place where you barely see other foreign tourists.

Also I would say if you want more comfort and luxury Bali is a better choice and I get why its so famous. Bali has proper infra, budget options, not much english issue and so many food options. But if you really want an adventure worth remembering, you gotta explore the rest of amazing islands :)
I feel if Indonesian govt wants then can easily make Sulawesi and komodo islands very easy to reach but yeah upto them and we can just hope!

Posted by
1346 posts

"I feel if Indonesian govt wants then can easily make Sulawesi and komodo islands very easy to reach but yeah upto them and we can just hope!"

You can fly directly to both from Singapore.

I totally agree with your advice to explore Indonesia beyond Bali. Another good spot (again, direct flight from Singapore) is Yogyakarta.

Posted by
5 posts

Simon -
You are right about Singapore to Labuan (Komodo) flight which is direct.

But there is no direct flight from Singapore to Luwuk Banggai. You would have to first take a flight to Jakarta and then Makkasar and then to Luwuk airport.
Now you can imagine how logistical challenging it will be for someone from Europe or Australia.

Posted by
1346 posts

Sorry you're right, Makkasar. I agree about that coming from Europe.

Posted by
195 posts

Hi Brenda,
Which phinisi boat operator did you use for Komodo if you don't mind me asking?
What did you think about the quality of the boat, cleanliness, safety, etc?
Did you book in advanced or when you got to Labuan Bajo?
This is something i wanted to do in a long time with my daughter.
I agree there are so many amazing islands worth exploring.
We go to Indonesia roughly every other year, want to explore one new place at a time.

Posted by
5 posts

hey Holly!
we booked labuan bajo tour through Asik travel boat operator in Komodo.
Quality of boat - well we had private cabin which was pretty nice and clean with private toilet and a deck. But do not expect too much luxury unless you are willing to shell out lots of dollars. And honestly its not worth going by too big boat as you lose some sense of adventure. Although, I am not sure if there even are large cruise ships like I saw in Halong bay of Vietnam.
Safety there was no issue which I could see but I did see they assume most people are good swimmers (Only time I felt slightly concerned was during swimming with manta tour where waves were crazy. They don't let people jump who are not good swimmers. You can ask to jump along with the guide before you board the small boat which takes you to the manta point). So before booking mention that to the team so they pay more attention to you. Food was great and you can tell your preference in advance if you are Vegan.

I booked in advance because currently its high season and hard to find empty slots. It depends on the month you plan to go. July-Aug-Sep are pretty crazy and you should book in advance. I think in low season you can just go to the city and just book there and then.

Also look into Raja Ampat which is my next planned destination. Its way more costly than Komodo island and more luxurious. But I think would be worth it.

Hope you have a great time with your daughter there :)

Posted by
5 posts

If you never saw Bali before it might be worth staying a week there but after you've seen it once that's often enough for many people... Not my favorite place but I'm glad we saw some of the less crowded areas.