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Serengeti Migration (?)

For anyone of you who have seen the migration at the Mara river crossing un Tanzania, I have some questions, as I am thinking of adding Tanzania to my travel plans. I've been to Kenya and Tanzania once, but very long ago and did not see the migration. I've been fortunate enough to have stayed at many safari camps in the southern African countries but no migration experience.

I would like to go in September, any time of that month. I would go alone, on a trip arranged by a safari planner, not with a tour group.
I would be in the Grumeti first, but the herds would have passed that area by the time of my stay. So if I were to see the Migration, it would be at my next stop, in the Lamai Wedge, which is on private land across the river from the National Park, where I know there will be up to a hundred vehicles jockeying for space. How much does it impact viewing from a less crowded spot if you are staring into masses of vehicles across the Mara River?

However: once I have seen a herd of wildebeest galloping across the plains, and seen one or ten taken down by a croc, what else about the Migration makes it worthwhile to pay the higher price for lodging and endure the crowds? I've seen hunts and kills before but these look particularly gruesome in videos I've seen. And after I've seen one croc snatch a wildebeest, and maybe a few kills by cats, what else about the Migration makes it special, or different than any other great safari?

It's so much more expensive to go during the time, and even paying that high price does not make this a given; for all I know, I will be too late to see any crossings by September.

So should I just plan a less pricey trip perhaps later into September or even early October or in late spring, and forget about trying to see the Migration? I know people say it's life changing and alll that, but I already have many safaris under my belt and wonder just how much more this would offer, considering the negatives.

Also, since it's pretty easy to go directly from the Serengeti to Kigali, I also thought about gorillas....if anyone has done this in Rwanda, I have a few questions about a trip that would like both countries.....questions particularly about the actual trekking and the city of Kigali.

I know I need to plan early so I am thinking about 2028.

A million thanks so anyone who has time and inclination to respond here, and to talk safari!!

Posted by
2277 posts

I was just in Rwanda this past June and saw the gorillas twice. I also trekked to see Chimpanzees, Golden Monkeys, and Colobus Monkeys. I did a small safari in Akagera Park.

I did not combine this with another country (Kenya or Tanzania), so I'm not sure how helpful I can be, but many people do (although I think that those who fly in for just a day to trek gorillas really shortchange Rwanda). Anyway, if you have any questions I can answer, I'm happy to help.

Posted by
658 posts

Hi ekscrunchy, you might be interested in the Wildearth channel and app (Wildearth.tv and I know it’s on cable in the US). They broadcast safaris from South Africa and several parks in Kenya, and you may pick up useful info from the guides as they drive around. At the moment they’re broadcasting from Tsavo, the Masai Mara and Ruma(which looks amazing!). They call themselves “the largest safari vehicle in the world” and it’s a great way of getting your wilderness fix until you’re actually there.

Posted by
10555 posts

We did our safari to see the Great Migration in August 2022 and it was wonderful.
We visited Kenya and Tanzania with Good Earth Tours (excellent tour with private driver/guide).

Not sure if September will work. We did ours in early August and it was perfect.

This link says that July-September is best time, I suggest that if you do it in September, do it in EARLY September.
https://tanzaniatravel.info/the-great-migration-in-tanzania/

Posted by
6559 posts

How much does it impact viewing from a less crowded spot if you are staring into masses of vehicles across the Mara River?

I wish I knew an answer. It’s what would keep me from going to see it. The hordes of vehicles looks awful. But I think the sheer masses of the herds are the draw - At least it would be for me. It’s a impact I would get, kills or no kills.

You are also talking about a private reserve, which probably doesn’t have the same restrictions that the national park does on going off road.

No help - just pondering……

Posted by
1206 posts

My wife and I completed a trip to Africa which included Namibia, Rwanda, the Serengeti along some other parts of Tanzania and a couple of pass throughs in Johanesburg.

How much does it impact viewing from a less crowded spot if you are staring into masses of vehicles across the Mara River?

It all depends on the location and what the Wildebeests want to do. Our first crossing was with a several other guides and it was okay, but we did not see the beginning. The second was in the afternoon and our guide said we had to be patient. The wildebeests lined up at the river, then moved to other points on the river and then back to the original point. Finally one jumped in and the rest followed. The line stretched for over a mile and yes two crocs showed. It is very much more than just a crossing. There were very few vehicles for the second crossing.

It's so much more expensive to go during the time, and even paying that high price does not make this a given; for all I know, I will be too late to see any crossings by September.

We observed this on September 3, 2026. Make sure to have a planner who understands the Wildebeest migration map.

Also, since it's pretty easy to go directly from the Serengeti to Kigali, I also thought about gorillas....if anyone has done this in Rwanda, I have a few questions about a trip that would like both countries.....questions particularly about the actual trekking and the city of Kigali.

We did the gorilla hike and the golden monkey hike in Rwanda. Neither one was what we would call strenuous. As for Kigali other than the Genocide Museum which was very good, it is a large city seems to be pretty safe. From Kigali we flew to Mwanza for passport control into Tanzania then on to the landing strip in the Serengeti.

Let me know if you need more information.

Posted by
10555 posts

When we saw the wildebeests crossing rivers, there were always several other vehicles there, but it did not impair our experience.

We saw several instances of hundreds of wildebeests crossing, from more than one river. I remember at first we saw hundreds of wildebeests stop as a river and not cross, but 40 minutes later it started. The Crocks would always seem to get the first couple of animals crossing.

Posted by
2038 posts

BB: Yes, I will have more questions about Rwanda. I was thinking of 2-3 nights (one gorilla trek and trek to golden monkeys) and then maybe two nights in Kigali at the very end of the trip. I will definitely have more questions if I decide to proceed!

Amanda, thanks so much for this info; I will do my best to try to find these channels on my tv and any live streams I can come across.

Geova: Yes, September is considered the best time for the Lamai Wedge; it says as much in the link you provided (Kotagende, which is national park, is mentioned in your link; this is on the other side of the River from the private reserves). I believe you were on national park lands during your safari tours. I am speaking here of the Mara River crossing, not the Grumeti River, where the migration would be earlier. There are private conservancies in the northern Serengeti that include the use of a private vehicle and guide for each guest (Serian Serengeti and Nyasi Tented Camp). but I would not. necessarily choose a lodge because of that. Sometimes it's fun to be in the vehicle with a few other people but it's hit or miss, as you probably know. Many many hours each day with just me and the guide (not sure if there are trackers in the Serengeti) would probably be superb, but who really knows...

TTT: Yes, I agree with you...although the vehicle hordes are in the national parks, which also (you know this) do not allow night driving, walking safaris, or driving off road. I would arrange (or, I should say that the planner would arrange!!) a trip only to the private conservancies. I was thinking two int he Grumeti and one in the Lamai Wedge.

Ed: That's so great that you took such a diverse safari trip recently!! (I've never been to Namibia). Even better is that your gorilla trek was not horribly difficult. (But I bet you are in much better condition than I am!!). But I understand it's the luck of the draw, depending on where the families have camped out the previous night, and been spotted by the trackers. I would put myself in the "easy" group, and I would hire at least one porter, but even then, I am scared that I would be lagging. I've read so many accounts by now and there are a few people from the "easy" groups that had to walk uphill in mud for three hours. One positive is that the would be at the end of my trip so I would get accustomed at least to some altitude in Serengeti. Can I ask if you noticed anyone using those "African helicopters on your trek--the sedan chairs carried by porters??

As you suggest, I will definitely use a good planner who knows all of these details. For my southern-country trips, I've used the same planner, based in CapeTown and she has been absolutely fabulous times a thousand... (The BlueTrain was delayed for so many hours that we would have missed our afternoon game drive in the Sabi Sands, so she had a private plane pick us up on a strip near the train tracks and fly us right to the strip near Lion Sands..things like that I would never have expected and would never have known were possible.!! And none of this had an added cost. She does also plan East Africa so I think I will reach out to her first.

There are so many complexities, as you know with these trips..not only where to go and when to go but where to stay and which room at which lodge is best, and which guide to request at each camp, the coordination of the tiny planes from camp to camp, storing extra belongings while on safari, and on and on...

ooopd..ran our os space...will continue

Posted by
2038 posts

(continuation...sorry to have rambled on for so long!!). Before I began traveling to Southern Africa I had always planned my own trips and I know there are many people who do just that but I just cannot imagine the amount of time you'd have to spend doing this...and I'm sure I would still get things wrong on many fronts! These people are pros at what they do and I respect that so much. I know that some safari operators (not mine) have even worked at guides at the various camps, so they also have that specialist knowledge....

Thank you again to everyone who answered here......I will probably have more questions as I go further so will keep you all on your toes!!!

ps. These is how I imagine the crossings in the national parks...I think I'd rather skip than encounter this sort of thing; taken in the on the Mara river in the national park, early August:

https://www.instagram.com/reels/DMveu4XIUl0/

https://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-congestion-of-tourist-safari-cars-at-crossing-spots-along-the-mara-109384129.html

https://www.shutterstock.com/image-photo/masai-mara-keynaaugust-20-tourist-vehicles-554789800?dd_referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F

For anyone planning a similar trip and wanting to avoid crowds, this link seems helpful, breaking down the migration until various stages and detailing the crossings and how to avoid crowds like those in the pics, above:

https://www.privatetourscapetown.com/blog/hidden-wildebeest-migration-crossings

Posted by
2277 posts

ekscrunchy, both our gorilla treks were easy. Our Rwanda guide helped to make sure of that. He lives in that area and knew all the people involved with the gorilla trekking, although, of course, they all try to put everyone into groups suitable for their abilities, anyway, as it makes for a better experience for all.

Our first trek was so easy, in fact, that as soon as we crossed into the forest from the potato fields, we were told to leave our walking sticks, as we were about to meet the gorillas. In fact, one of the first gorillas I saw was sitting on the wall and looking out over the fields. She probably watched us approach. Our second trek was a little bit longer but was not difficult, and it was nice, because the gorillas were more in the open. Of course, there's no guarantee. As you say, the gorillas can move. But our Colobus Monkey and Chimpanzee treks were more challenging than either of our gorilla treks.

We were 68 at the time of the treks. I have back problems (and have to have pain injections), and my husband has balance issues. We were anxious about the treks, but we needn't have worried.

We have a friend who, a few years ago, sprained his ankle in Germany on his way to Africa before gorilla trekking. He had to use the "African helicopter" both ways. He did have to crawl through the forest for the last few minutes, because nothing but cameras are allowed to be brought among the gorillas.

Although Rwanda trekking is more expensive, I have heard that the treks in Rwanda tend to be easier, on average, than the ones in Uganda. Also, the terrain tends to be a little more open, so the gorillas can be easier to see. (They don't call Bwindi the "impenetrable forest" for nothing.) Rwanda is also a very clean country with little crime.

I hope that eases your mind somewhat.

Posted by
2038 posts

Yes, it does easy my mind. A lot, and I thank you so much for all of this great information! Very much appreciated!!

I've managed to spend many more hours (!!) reading and am now looking into doing Grumeti/Lamai, and maybe Rwanda, in February, which seems to offer excellent weather and lower crowds than September.

Also possibility of an extension to Maldives, where this appears to be an excellent time if can work around Chinese New Year holidays. However, this is a complicated flight plan; not sure if Maldives requires its own trip, or a trip combined with somewhere outside of east Africa....

I looked into Zanzibar and was very discouraged by what I read about Stone Town and the offshore islands.

I will begin another thread about Maldives...

Posted by
1772 posts

Some random thoughts/comments on your questions:

  • When you say it is easy to get from the Serengeti to Rwanda, did you mean via a series of flights or something else? I did this in the opposite direction overland (Kigali to Mwanza and then onto the Serengeti) in 2017 and it was a true adventure crossing a remote border and even just getting to Mwanza in a day was an undertaking.

  • Kigali was a pretty decent city - quite clean. The genocide museum is heart wrenching and a must see in my opinion. I crossed into Rwanda from Uganda (after visiting Murchison Falls NP, Queen Eliz NP, saw some chimpanzees, etc.) and then took a local bus to Kigali. The Marriott was really nice and had a good lounge. While I love safaris, I haven't been that attracted to the great apes and hence haven't seen either the Gorillas or the Orangatans, etc. My brother went to Akegera last year which he said was decent but with a high entrance fee ($100 per person per day I think).

  • Great Migration - I missed out on this when I was in E Africa. The thing I am curious about is if one sees a lot of the other animals during the great migration or is one mainly going to see just wildebeest, zebras, lions and crocs? I love to see things like Rhinos, hippos, foxes, jackals, oryx, and especially the elusive leopards. My current goal is to go on safaris every year if possible. From my research East Africa and esp the Great Migration seems so much more expensive than going on safaris in southern Africa that it is lower on my bucket list which includes safaris in the Pantanal (for jaguars) and India (tigers), etc. I am eager to hear about your experience from you and others who have seen the great migration.

Q - If you stay in the private reserves around the Mara, do you still have to pay the massive $200 per person, per 12 hour window national park fee?

Posted by
1206 posts

When you say it is easy to get from the Serengeti to Rwanda, did you mean via a series of flights or something else?

Same plane, pilots and passengers; two flights.

The thing I am curious about is if one sees a lot of the other animals during the great migration or is one mainly going to see just wildebeest, zebras, lions and crocs?

Yes there is be more to see. One of the animals that we had never seen before was a Serval Cat.

From my research East Africa and esp the Great Migration seems so much more expensive than going on safaris in southern Africa that it is lower on my bucket list which includes safaris in the Pantanal (for jaguars) and India (tigers), etc.

Probably so because the window for seeing it in the Serengeti is probably late July to December. Our guide said that the lodge, even though it is open, does not book anyone in February and March as that is when they do the upgrades etc.

Posted by
2038 posts

Arnold, about going from Serengeti to Kigali:

Although Grumeti Air no longer flies to Rwanda, Auric Air flies the same routes daily, from the Grumeti Reserve and from the Kotagende/Lamai airstrips. I would hope to go to Grumeti first, so the flight would be Kotagende/Lamai to Kigali.

The drive time from the camps to the airstrip takes from 30 to 60 minutes (from what I am reading, depending on which camp you are departing from) and then another 2.5 hours flight on to Kigali.

https://www.auricair.com/Destinations/Kigali

From Kigali the drive to Volcanoes National Park is estimated at 2-3 hours by car.

Arnold, sounds like you have some incredible trips on your list!!! I, too, had little interest in the apes until I begin reading recently, and realized how well Serengeti combines with Rwanda (I ruled out Bwindi because the forest trek is reportedly much more difficult than the ones in VNP). Kigali sounds interesting, even besides the Genocide Museum....pretty clean and will be ok for me to be solo.

Also, as I think I mentioned, I had such incredibly astonishing experiences on safaris in Botswana, South Africa, Zimbabwe and tiny peek into Zambia, that I had very little desire to return to East Africa, where I had been only once decades ago, on a work trip. But the vast open landscapes of Tanzania does have a lot of appeal since with a few exceptions,, I've been mostly along rivers or mopane woodlands. So I thought that I probably have one or two more safari trips in me, so why not look into the Serengeti area.

Having seen the "Big Five" so many times, I am also very interested in smaller and less well-known critters. I was so fortunate to have seen pangolin and anteater (and porcupine!!) on night drives at the Tswalu Kalahari reserve, and two (!!) honey badgers on a night drive in Sabi Sands, where our amazing guide also spotted several bush baby families. Sabi Sands also offered incredible leopard sightings, as did the Moremi in the Delta. I got one sighting of a serval cat but it was very quick and not very clear......

I don't know if you would have to pay the NP entrance fees if you are on the private reserves, but I can ask this, or any other questions, when I speak to my "regular" safari planner...... What if you are tracking leopard and the animal wanders across the River into the NP..I guess if you had no permit you'd have to abandon the drive..but I know nothing about this so the with a grain of salt...

Maybe I am also making a mistake in looking towards East Africa......maybe it will not offer the same bang that the southern countries do but you can bet I will be more than happy to share my experiences here!!

About the pricing, I think I may abandon the Migration idea---highest prices, possible masses of people at crossing points....February and March are supposedly great t times for Serengeti---lower prices, concentrated water so great sightings, fewer fellow tourists....I think that would suit me better than September, the more I read... It's the season for calving of wildebeests so many baby animals around--so many predators as well. And Feb also appears to be prime trekking time in Rwanda.

Arnold, you mentioned Panantal. Yesterday I read this exciting trip report; before then, the only things I knew bout that region was jaguars and capybara!! You might enjoy, if you have not yet read:

https://www.fodors.com/community/south-america/brazil-trip-report-rio-n-pantanal-olinda-fernando-de-noronha-1732410/

Posted by
2038 posts

Ed: Did you go to all of those countries on the same trip? Oh, boy, t hat's a lot of flying! It must have been quite an adventure!! How long did you spend in Namibia and where did you go? I ask because my sister combined that country with Sabi Sands and has been urging me to go there ever since she returned bout 8 years ago---not to Etosha but to Skeleton Coast and Sossusvlei and a couple of other spots.... Was this an organized tour or did someone plan it for your group?? Thanks!!!!!

Posted by
6559 posts

pangolin and anteater (and porcupine!!) on night drives at the Tswalu Kalahari reserve

Oooh, I am headed to Tswalu in June, something I never thought I would be able to do and this just pumps my excitement up even higher!

Posted by
2277 posts

ekscrunchy, Namibia was our first Africa experience, and it was wonderful. We had an excellent guide--recommended by a longtime poster at Safari Talk who had travelled with him twice. Happy to give a recommendation if requested.

Posted by
1206 posts

Did you go to all of those countries on the same trip?

Yes.

How long did you spend in Namibia and where did you go?

We were in Namibia for 13 days, it was a self drive tour between lodges. All of our guides were provided through the lodges. The basic itinerary was Windhoek to a lodge in the Kalahari to Sossusvlei to Swakopmund to the desert interior vis the Skeleton Coast to Etosha to Windhoek. We spent at least 2 nights at all lodges with the exception of 2 lodges where spent just one night.

Was this an organized tour or did someone plan it for your group?

It was all private for just my wife and I. Some of the game drives were group oriented, but were just the two of us. We used a travel agent with Rhino Africa out of Cape Town to set it all up. We have used her in the past on another safari that we did a few years ago.

Posted by
2038 posts

I'm trying to post here but getting a message that "you are not allowed to post to the forum!!" Leet me see if I can post this..

This sentence posted, but the looong comment about Tswalu will not post, and it is not because it is too long.....hmmmm....