Seeking advice on Southwest US road trip plan

We did a somewhat similar 19-day (18-night) road trip in July 2024, starting and ending in Denver. Our order was (with your stops in bold-face): Colorado Springs 2 nights, Silt CO - interim stop 1 night, Moab 1 night, Bryce Canyon 1 night, Grand Canyon North Rim 2 nights, Sedona AZ 2 nights, Tucson AZ 1 night, Eagar NM - interim stop 1 night, Santa Fe 4 nights - during the drive from Eagar to Santa Fe we had lunch and then spent 90 minutes in Albuquerque Old Town, Taos 1 night - we took the high road between Santa Fe and Taos - it was worthwhile, Buena Vista CO - interim stop 1 night but surprisingly pleasant, Boulder CO 1 night.
A few comments:

• Santa Fe: our longest stay at 4 nights, and worth every day. Highlights: (1) during first morning we did the 2 hour+ walking tour by Ana Pacheco. There were only 4 people on the tour, and it was a good introduction to Santa Fe. (2) The Native American craft stalls located on the North side of Santa Fe Plaza: designated area for rotating Native American artists and craftspeople to sell items their families have produced. (3) Browsing the Canyon Road galleries. (4) Browsing the store KESHi for Native American carved Fetishes, etc. (4) Visiting the Georgia O'Keefe Museum. NOTE: best to purchase the timed-entry tickets in advance online. One night we had margheritas on the roof of La Fonda Hotel; best to arrive early as there was a crowd to view the sunset.
• Taos: 1 night was plenty. Taos Pueblo and the High Bridge were highlights. Unexpectedly great dining at The Love Apple - worth the hassle of following the process for making a reservation.
• Moab: 1 night was sufficient. We visited Arches twice: once in the afternoon during our timed-entry period, and again at just past 6am the following morning (before the commencement of timed-entries at 7am). After our afternoon visit to Arches, in the evening we drove the pretty drive to Dead Horse Point State Park to view the sunset: highly recommended; NOTE: entry ticket must be purchased online.
• Bryce Canyon: 1 night worked well. Our favorite among the parks we visited. We stayed in the Guest Studio in the park at Bryce Canyon Lodge - with a 3 minute walk to the rim. The Lodge dining room dinner was mediocre, but it is almost the only game in town.
• North Canyon North Rim: 2 nights worked well. We stayed in one of the in-park cabins, thus avoiding the long drive from external lodging. The cabins are rather rustic, but have excellent plumbing with bathroom. We had a Rimside Cabin, but it was not worth the extra cost as the view was completely blocked by a forest. Note: Reservations are highly recommended for the Grand Canyon Lodge Dining Room - we saw plenty of people turned away; the food and service were much better than at the Bryce Canyon Lodge Dining Room. Sunset is an especially good time to be in the dining room. One morning we did a mule ride halfway down the canyon. My partner was extremely nervous, but really enjoyed it; I let the folks that paired customers with mules know of her nervousness and they chose a very appropriate mule for her.
• If convenient, consider driving through Wupatki National Monument and visiting the Native American stone ruins.

From Flagstaff, take a detour from I-40 to Holbrook, then Rte 180 south to access the south entrance to Petrified Forest NP, drive through the park (28 mi) to return to I-40 toward Albuquerque. Another very interesting (and scenic) stop is El Morro NM. Inscription Rock is fascinating if you're into history. Another possible detour is Petroglyphic NM in Albuquerque.

I haven't taken the route you describe from Taos to Durango so I don't know if this is just a scenic drive or if you plan to stop for sights along the way. Durango is fun, kind of kitschy, but still very good to wander. One of the most scenic drives is the San Juan Skyway north from Durango to Ouray and back. Though you can cut it shorter by going only as far as Silverton, I loved Ouray. Another option is to take the tourist train to Silverston and back.

If you haven't been to Mesa Verde NP, I highly recommend it on your way to Moab. Allow at least 1/2 day and take a guided tour that walks you through some of the pueblos. You have 2 full days in Arches for sunset hikes. Do you really want 3? Are you planning to spend 23rd am in Moab or most of the day in Monument Valley. I was on the reservation only for sunset, maybe I missed a lot.

Frankly, after all the scenic drives you have, the Valley of Fire may be a disappointment. On the other hand, one of my favorite scenic drives is from Bryce to the east entrance of Zion in the morning with the sun at your back. (USj-89 to Mt Carmel Junction, then UT-9 through Springdale. Red Rock Canyon just outside Las Vegas has pretty hikes.

I am very familiar with a lot of this area having driven around much of central and northern New Mexico into Colorado. So these would be my personal recommendations. I go not just for the scenery but for the cultures and archaeology of this incredible area. Also, if you have not yet done so, get a copy of the AAA Indian Country map which is devoted to the Four Corners area.

En route to Albuquerque try and take an overnight stop at Canyon de Chelly. The drive along the canyon rims at twilight is amazing. Recommended hotel, the Holiday Inn Canyon de Chelly, right by the entrance to the National Park and Canyon. Or the historic Thunderbird Lodge a bit further into the Park.

I think you will probably want to take a slight detour south off the Interstate at Grants for views across El Malpais the lava fields. There are some trails that will take you out on the lava for a short distance. Chania’s suggestions of stops at Petrified Forest and El Morro are good too.

Unless you make a detour you will miss one of the most important archaeological sites in North America, Chaco Canyon which is full of incredible ruins. The roads into the Canyon remain unpaved so it can be interesting driving in, but well worth it if you can make the time to go.

I’d probably leave Albuquerque in the morning, aside from Old Town it’s not a particularly attractive town for me. Two potential stops on the Tuquoise Trail are Madrid, an old mining town that became something of a hippy hangout and now full of artists, gallery’s etc. a good lunch stop. The other is Cerillos, near the old Cerollos turquoise mines. Last time I was there was still pretty much a ghost town, just a few signs of people living there.

I’d give yourself at least. 2 full days in Santa Fe, too much to see and do there. I liked staying at the Inn of the Governors, nice comfortable rooms a couple of blocks from the Plaza and easy to reach coming from the south.

You could do Bandolier en route to Taos. Stops on the High Road would be Chimayo and Ranchos de Taos for two interesting churches. A drive through the country northwest of Espanola is akin to driving through a Georgia O’Keeffe painting, the light, the colours the scenery are stunning.

You will cross the Rio Grande Bridge en route to Chama and Durango. It’s a long drive from Taos to Durango and you definitely need to take some rest stops. I remember stopping at somewhat funky cafe in Tres Piedras for an ice tea, otherwise you blink you miss it! Try and make your stop in Chama coincide with the steam train schedule. No recommendations for Durango as I stayed with friends there

From Durango I’d be headed up to Mesa Verde for stunning views and cliff dwellings. It’s been years since I was in Moab and the Monument Valley area. Maybe time for another trip south? You’ve got me thinking about needing to go to the Southwest again!

I've spent a lot of time in that area, and have family out there, and you've got some good suggestions already. Let me just add a couple more specific ones.

In Sante Fe - take the time to go to Meow Wolf and the Indian Arts and Culture Museum (good cafe too). I've been eating at Los Potrillos for over 30 years when in town.

In Albuquerque - take the time to visit the Museum of Natural History, Petroglyph National Monument, and Indian Pueblo Cultural Center. If you are at all interested in cars the Unser racing museum is good.

In Arches try to be at Delicate Arch at either sunset, or sunrise. The light is fantastic. Please take lots of water. Twice what you think you need. It can easily get over 100 in May and freezing at night.

Hi Brad -
We've also spent quite a lot of time in some of the areas you intend to cover; we were just back to Santa Fe and Moab this past spring. Some comments off the top of my head....

Albuquerque: like Lesley, we're not fans of that one or Old Town although Petroglyph National Monument is interesting, and the view from Sandia Crest is great; we did a couple of short hikes up there too. Still, you might consider driving directly to Santa Fe from Flagstaff.

Santa Fe: our favorite small US city; wish you could give it more time. The Museum of International Folk Art is up on Museum Hill - so I wouldn't do it on the 15th - and I'd recommend the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture and the Wheelwright up there too. I'd definitely prioritize the galleries along Canyon Road over those in Taos, and Cristo Rey - the largest adobe church in the US, with an enormous, very old reredos - is near the east end of that road (https://www.santafe.org/listing/cristo-rey-church/330/).

Hiking: Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument, abt, 40 miles SW of Santa Fe, has recently reopened and requires a reservation unless using an America the Beautiful pass. Additional Cochiti Pueblo Tribal Access Pass required. Fun and very scenic hiking around these rare, cone-shaped formations (been there, done that.)
https://www.blm.gov/programs/national-conservation-lands/new-mexico/kasha-katuwe-tent-rocks-national-monument

There are some nice hikes at Bandelier; you'll be there during the high season period where you'll need to take the mandatory shuttle into/out of the park from the White Rock Visitor Center unless you arrive before 9:00 AM. (https://www.nps.gov/band/planyourvisit/shuttle.htm). For sure do at least the Main/Pueblo Loop Trail plus Alcove House and Falls Trail if possible, and the view from Frey Trail is nice too. Also HIGHLY recommended is the separate Tsankawi Unit with its cavates and trail worn by the Ancestors into the soft white tuff. Great views too. This unit is well worth scrapping some other things for, IMHO (https://www.nps.gov/band/planyourvisit/tsankawi.htm) Short story long, you could devote the lion's share of a day at this National Monument.

I'll second the vote for Chaco Culture National Historic Park: remote but fascinating park of great-house ruins. You can visit 5 of them via the (paved) Loop Road, and I'll recommend Pueblo Alto Trail too for a couple other ruins and terrific views.

High Road to Taos: absolutely make stops for photogenic adobe Sagrado Corazón de Jesus church and cemetery in Nambe, Santuario de Chimayo in Chimayao, San Jose de Gracia church in Las Trampas (exterior only), and San Francisco de Asis Church in Rancho de Taos.

It's too bad that you only have one full day for Moab; Arches will be overrun and likely hot so get there as early as possible. 2 nice hikes that probably won't be as busy as others are Tower Arch, and Devil's Garden (entire route). Our favorite hike outside of the parks is Fisher Towers; very scenic, and the drive to the trailhead, along 128, is pretty great too.
https://www.visitutah.com/things-to-do/hiking/moab-hiking/fisher-towers

Close to Canyonlands National Park (Moab) is Dead Horse Point State Park: we preferred it to Page's Horseshoe Bend. https://stateparks.utah.gov

G.C. North Rim: your dates have you there on the edge Memorial Day weekend so you need to make your lodge reservations ASAP; it's a long way from much of anywhere. If you can't get into the lodge, try North Kaibab Lodge or the Inn at Jacob Lake.

Bryce: I don't think you need 3 nights for this one, Consider moving 1 of them to Santa Fe or other location? The classic hike: Queen's Garden + Navaho Loop. Highly recommend. :O)

I wanted to thank each of you who shared such good advice. I have changed to include Mesa Verde... a few other spots...and saved great new places for a potential future trip. - Brad

https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Durango,+CO/Black+Canyon+of+the+Gunnison+National+Park,+Colorado/Moab,+UT/@38.2489257,-110.0528642,274862m/data=!3m2!1e3!4b1!4m20!4m19!1m5!1m1!1s0x873c02a6bd85fc23:0xdc2b8882a3a67e5a!2m2!1d-107.8800667!2d37.27528!1m5!1m1!1s0x873f5efc49376af1:0x3f31d692b3ad8bbc!2m2!1d-107.7415961!2d38.5753936!1m5!1m1!1s0x8747e1e59ab82d8d:0xb32b17af1d5c42d!2m2!1d-109.5498395!2d38.5733155!3e0?entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI0MTIxMS4wIKXMDSoASAFQAw%3D%3D

A suggestion for the Durango to Moab segment to include a stop at Black Canyon of the Gunnison NP.

As an add on to what Chani said about Petrified Forest. It also has the Painted Desert. After you go through the Petrified Forest side you just continue on through the Painted Desert to re-join I-40 ( That constitutes the 28 miles)

Happy travels

Brad Bailey,
What Chani said about the Painted Desert and Petrified Forest. They are easily combined in one day and definitely worthwhile!
In Santa Fe, the Georgia OKeefe museum was a big disappointment for us. The museums on Museum Hill were great (Museum of International Folk Art and the Museum of Indian Arts and Culture, especially). The Bradbury Science Museum in Los Alamos was also a highlight for our NM trip. (We combined it with a visit to Bandolier Natl. Monument...good day trip from Santa Fe). One thing in Albuquerque we enjoyed was the Balloon Museum of Alburquerque.
Canyon de Chelly and Chaco Canyon are supreme examples of Native American ancient southwest cultures, Chaco especially. Glad to hear you are going to Mesa Verde!