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Recommendations for visiting Baja, west coast of Mexico?

We have a week in mid-February during which, if we can get air tickets, might like to visit Mexico. Do you know anything about Baja (perhaps Loreto, or somewhere near Leguna Ojo de Liebre, or Bahia Magdalena and Puerto San Carlos, or San Jose del Cabo, or La Paz...)? We are interested in places that are less resort-like, are on a smaller scale, yet are interesting, even quaint, safe. Whale watching and kayaking would be great. If not the Baja, what about places near Manzanillo or even Puerto Vallarte? We'd love to hear about your favorite places to visit, to stay, to eat...

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If you want to see whales then you need to go to San Ignacio Lagoon near Guerrero Negro. This is where the Gray whales go to calve in the winter. There are many companies that will take you out into the lagoon - really do your research to find out which ones follow the rules and are run by people who are actually biologists and know what they're doing. It is unique in the world!
Another one of my favorite places to go is on the east coast of the Baja peninsula right on the Sea of Cortez. It's called Bahia de Los Angeles and it is a tiny place but, if you want to see wildlife and go kayaking, this is the place for you. It's a town of about 500 people that is right on the water with a nice bay and a view of the outer islands in the distance. There are several small hotels in town. This place is one of the undiscovered ecological hotbeds of the world! The desert is absolutely stunning and the ocean is teeming with life! Whales, dolphins, birds, turtles...I've never seen so much sea life in one place. The feeding frenzies are like nothing I've ever seen in my life. The water is bio-luminescent at night and the offshore islands are also very interesting because of their remoteness and interesting species. The town is very much off the beaten track but it is a friendly little place - there is even a tiny airport if you don't want to make the drive.
There are ancient cave paintings in the rocks and cliffs in the area and there are also Spanish missions out in the desert and in some of the towns like the one in San Ignacio - arriving in this town is like something from a movie. You're driving through the desert and suddenly the ground drops away in front of you and you are looking into a valley covered in palm trees at the bottom and the church is sticking out of the middle. It's a gorgeous colonial town.
My favorite Spanish mission in Baja is San Borja, not too far from Bahia de Los Angeles - it is not easy to get to - you'll have to hire a 4-wheel drive. ENTIRELY WORTH IT. You are completely alone in the middle of the desert with this beautiful building. Last time I was there, a caretaker and his family were still there keeping an eye on the place. A very unique experience!