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Peru Trip Report

I have seen some interest in Peru lately on this site and wanted to share our ten day trip report. My husband and I moved to Lima with our dog in June (we are international teachers), and December-February is our summer break. My sister flew out to Lima and we traveled together for about 10 days. Most of our trip planning was done online and from advice of co-workers who have been in Lima longer than us. For context, we’re all in our 40s/ early 50s. This was our first "big" trip in Peru, going to multiple destinations.

After Lima- Tambopata Rainforest
After a few days in Lima, we flew to Puerto Maldonado, which is in the Amazon near the Bolivian and Brazilian borders. We chose this location because it is the rainy season in the Amazon (and much of Peru) now and travel to the resort is by river, not by land. My sister also felt this offered us the most opportunities to see wildlife. We stayed at the Hacienda Concepcion Lodge for 4 nights. It’s a beautiful facility and the food was very good. Everything was all-inclusive, including the excursions. We had the same guide for the 4 days we were there and he did a fantastic job; we were in a group of 10 total for most of it. After taking the boat to the resort and checking in, we had some downtime. Late afternoon, we took a guided walk through the rainforest for about 2 hours. We saw several species of monkeys (red howler and spider monkeys), bats sleeping in a hollowed out tree, and lots of smaller critters. After dinner, we went on a nighttime boat ride on the river and spotted several Caiman, which are related to alligators but smaller.

The next day, we did a morning canoe on a small tributary and saw more monkeys and caiman. After lunch, a different rainforest walk. Day three was our favorite, although we had terrible weather- in the morning we got up very early (5am breakfast) and took a boat then hike (about 3 kilometers) to Lake Sandoval. We were on a canoe for about 2 hours and after some careful searching, were lucky enough to spot three Giant River Otters, which are endangered but often spotted at the lake. They were freaking adorable. We then walked 3 kilometers back to the boat and had downtime and lunch. After lunch, we took a boat to Inkaterra’s other property, Inktaterra Reserva (very fancy and expensive) for the canopy walk. Even though it was pouring the whole time, it was really cool to get up high on the canopy towers and then take the 6 bridges to see the forest from the tree tops. This was easily our favorite day and best excursions.

The next day, we had two excursions- one making chocolate and another rainforest hike. We really liked the resort and thought the excursions were all very good, although we got very heavy rain for a lot of the time until the day we left, which was sunny. If we were to do it again, three nights would have been perfect.

From Puerto Maldonado- fly to Cusco
After 4 nights in the Amazon, we flew to Cusco (about a one hour flight). The Puerto Maldonado airport is super tiny, two gates. We were pleasantly surprised to find a very good pizza restaurant in the airport, better than some of the pizza I’ve had in Lima. Once we landed in Cusco, we had hired a driver to pick us up and take us immediately to Ollantaytambo. The reason for this is Cusco is at 12,000 feet and it’s better to start in lower elevations in the Sacred Valley and acclimate. We were very glad we did this. We had hired a driver through Taxidatum which I actually found on Reddit- this worked out very well and was quite reasonable (120 soles for the 90-120 minute drive). They also accept USD which surprised me. We stayed in Ollantaytambo for three nights, which I think was the right amount. Two also would have been OK but we definitely were feeling the altitude (about 9,000 feet) and moving slower.

Continued....

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Part 2:
Ollantaytambo is small but has a variety of restaurants and hotels. It is one of the best preserved Incan towns in Peru, and also where you take the train to Aguas Calientes/ Machu Picchu. Friends had recommended we stay in Urubamba, because it’s more centrally located to the whole Sacred Valley and is bigger/ more restaurants and hotels, but it didn’t seem to have much character driving through. We were happy with our choice. In Ollantaytambo, we climbed up to the Ollantaytambo Incan Temple (right above town), which took a few hours to explore. We also did a hike on the opposite side of town to the Pinkuylluna Incan Ruins- the old granaries that you can see high above town. Although it’s a steep hike, it’s short, and doable if you don’t have mobility or balance issues. We were so glad we did this- it was very interesting up close, and the path takes you to lots of different ruins on the mountain. There are amazing views into Ollantaytambo and the temple on the opposite mountain. In Ollantaytambo, we ate at: Amanto (very good food, we ate here twice, would consider this nuevo-Andean but they also had some basics like burgers), Chullpi (this was just OK), and Chuncho (which was excellent and probably our second-best meal during the trip).

From Cusco to Aguas Calientes
The day before we were supposed to take the train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes, two trains collided, killing the driver and injuring multiple people. So, we began making back-up plans in case we would not be able to make it to Machu Picchu. We kept going onto Reddit to get updates, as well as the Facebook page for PeruRail (which wasn’t very helpful). Luckily, we found out from our hotel that night that the trains would be running by the next day. The next morning, we arrived a little early for our 10:30 train (you are supposed to be at least 30 minutes early) and ended up waiting a few hours. We left around 12:30-1pm, knowing that we would miss our 3pm Machu Picchu timeslot (the last one of the day), but had read that the Ministry of Culture was honoring tickets if you were late. From Aguas Calientes, we checked into our hotel (El Mapi- we liked it) then made a mad rush for the bus. To get to MP from AC, you can take a 25 minute bus ride or hike (it’s a steep path up). The bus costs about $12 each way, and you can buy online a week in advance or at the ticket window in town. Once we arrived to MP, we found a guide outside. Our “circuit” for that afternoon was 3B, which takes you through the ruins at the base of the mountain and was a good introduction. Machu Picchu is everything you would expect and just an amazing place in person. We had decent weather that afternoon- it was cloudy, but not raining. Because this was during the rainy season, we booked two MP tickets- one that afternoon, and the other the next morning, knowing the weather was fickle. We had about 2 hours at the site before the kicked everyone out at 6pm, which is a little later than usual (I think). The next morning, we got up at 4am, had breakfast (our hotel opened breakfast at 4am) and made the 5:30am bus for our 6am ticket, this time 2B. Circuit two takes you a little higher than circuit three. The MP website has good explanations on the website, but we felt this circuit gave us better views and we had absolutely stunning weather. The great thing about the 6am ticket is that it feels pretty empty, since only people with 6am tickets will be there compared with later in the day. We took four hours this time to do the circuit (we took lots of pics, enjoyed the views in the sun, and stalked some alpacas). After our visit, we had lunch in Aguas Calientes, train back to Ollantaytambo, then had a driver (Taxidatum again) pick us up at the station to drive us to Cusco.

Continued.....

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Part 3:
Cusco
This was my first trip to Cusco and it is easily my favorite city in Peru so far. We stayed at Tariq Boutique Hotel in San Blas, which I highly recommend. San Blas is about a 10 minute walk (uphill) from the Plaza de Armas, and has a very artsy feel with adorable traffic-free streets, lots and lots of stairs, and cute restaurants and shops. We very much enjoyed staying there. Our first day, after breakfast we decided to go to Pisac to see the ruins. We walked to the Colectivos about 15 minutes from our hotel. Colectivos are mini-buses that run a specific route when full (every 10 minutes or so, usually) for only a few soles. We paid 5 soles each (about $1.50) for the 45 minute drive. The drive to Pisac is gorgeous- green hillsides all around you that reminded me a little bit of Scotland. In Pisac town, we hired an Uber to take us to the top of the ruins- otherwise, it’s a 3-4 hour hike. We thought the Pisac ruins were good to explore, and they had some amazing Inca terraces, but we enjoyed both of the ruins in Ollantaytambo more. After a few hours of exploring (also on top of a steep hill), we walked down, caught an overpriced taxi to town, then took the Colectivo back to Cusco.

The next morning, we got up early-ish and trekked up to Sacsayhuaman (it’s pronounced similar to “Sexy Woman”). It’s about a 25 minute hike uphill from San Blas, and we got caught in a nasty rainstorm, so it took quite a bit longer than that. Sacsayhuaman is the temple fortress at the top of the hill, and you get amazing city views. It only takes an hour or two to see properly but is not to be missed. You can also take a taxi there, FYI. That night, we had dinner at Cicciolina, which is a mediterranean/Nikkei/Peruvian fusion place and the best meal I’ve had in Peru so far. Keep in mind that I’ve lived here 6 months! We shared everything, and the scallops starter and the gnocchi were the best things I’ve eaten in a long time. The gnocchi were the lightest I’ve ever had, even in Italy. I want to go back to Cusco just to eat there again. Our last day, we toured the Qorikancha Site Museum (worth 30 minutes and included in the tourist ticket), then toured Qorikancha, which is an Incan Temple that the Spanish partly destroyed and built a church on top of. This was 20 soles and incredibly interesting. After this, we had dinner, grabbed our bags from the hotel, and flew back to Lima.

Stray Thoughts and Lessons Learned
*We all agreed, if we were to do this trip again, we’d do the Amazon last. We had decided to do it first because we were there over Christmas and the resort was all-inclusive, but all of our clothes got soaked and musty for the rest of the trip.
*We would have added a night in Cusco (at least three full nights instead of two) and taken a night off the Amazon (three nights instead of four).
*Taxidatum is a great way to get around safely and comfortably.
*English isn’t widely spoken in Peru, outside of hotels. If you don’t speak a little Spanish, make sure you have google translate on your phone. I probably wouldn’t use a colectivo if I didn’t know any Spanish (which I do).
*Peru is a beautiful country and there is so much to see. We barely scraped the surface of the Sacred Valley and we were there for a week. It’s not necessarily as “easy” as traveling in Europe, but there is good tourist infrastructure.

Posted by
3736 posts

Fun report, thanks for sharing! I also enjoyed going to Machu Picchu on two different days and routes - so much to see. And you reminded me that on my trip to Ecuador and Peru I learned that if the weather is iffy and the locals start running, you'd better get under cover quick! I live in a very rainy place but we don't get rain like that.

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5949 posts

Thanks for writing this up. I have a couple of friends who have done some of this recently. I probably never will but love reading about your experiences.

Posted by
6257 posts

This was so interesting for me to read, after just visiting many of the places you wrote about in July, 2025. I took a tour, but you make it sound very simple to book everything on your own. Clearly, you put a lot of research into it.

I liked the simplicity of a guided tour, but you miss out on things like spending 4 hours at Machu Picchu. And stalking an Alpaca!

Your wildlife viewing in the Amazon sounds amazing. I loved Cuzco as well and could easily spend more time there. Staying up in San Blas would be fun!

I hope you're enjoying Lima! Thanks for sharing your adventures. It was fun to revisit each place through your trip report!

Posted by
3896 posts

Thank you for sharing! Peru is very high on our travel list! We hope to get there soon!
What was the name of your hotel in Olayantambo?

Posted by
11367 posts

Coffee Girl, thanks so much for this great trip report explanation point. I really enjoyed reading it and you gave some great tips in here. I'm not sure if I will ever make it to Peru but if I do this will be the first place I come back to and look. It sounds like such a wonderful place.

Posted by
234 posts

Thanks for the kind comments, everyone. I wanted to put our details out there now while they were fresh in my mind :)

@CL- I'm actually from Portland, and my sister lives in Seattle now, so you'd think we'd be used to the rain. However, because of the humidity, things never really dried out.

@Tammy- We stayed at the Hotel Tierra Inka. The staff were all very kind and breakfast was pretty good. It was about a 10 minute (uphill) walk from the main area, in a more local area. Ollantaytambo is quite small. It was simple, but we liked it and would stay there again. Ollantaytambo seems to be more of a town that people pass through quickly to get to Machu Picchu, which is a shame.

Posted by
64 posts

Thanks for this report! It put a smile on my face because I first branched out from Europe to South America visiting friends who are international school teachers. I'm working on planning my trip, mainly to Cusco but flying through Lima. The flying time from where I live is going to eat up more time than I'd like, so I won't have a ton of time in Lima. Wondering if you have any Lima food recs for someone who can't eat seafood? Cicciolino seems to have a good variety of dishes, maybe someplace like that?

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234 posts

Hi Bradament- yes, happy to give some Lima restaurant suggestions! As a tourist, Cusco is a more interesting travel destination, but Lima is worth a few days if you have time.

Here are a few restaurant recs that are less seafood focused:
-Tanta is a very good local chain (go to Larcomar for an ocean view) that is popular with locals. They have my favorite version of Lomo Saltado so far.
-Isolina is really, really good homestyle Peruvian. You go here for meat, and they have an amazing Aji de Gallina. Portions are huge and it's a good sharing place.
-Panchita is well known for their Peruvian meat dishes and I've heard great things, but have t tried it yet.
-Porcus is a small restaurant in my neighborhood. You won't find it in any guidebooks but they have great meat dishes and criollo sandwiches.

I'll add more ideas if I think of them.

Posted by
2014 posts

Great report. Thanks for sharing. It brought back some memories for me. :)