Peru solo trip

We love Peru and have been there three times. Our last time, we did a tour including Cusco, the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu.

We booked a wonderful PRIVATE tour with Peruagency.com
https://peruagency.com

It was very inexpensive and it was just my wife and I with our guide/driver. Our guides throughout the tour were university educated and great.

Personally, I would not want to do Peru on my own. We learned from the locals that entering some places in Lima are very unsafe. Also, on a tour you make the most of your time, since transport, admissions, hotels and most meals are included.

I'd stay overnight Aguas Calientes for your Machu Picchu time, otherwise you'll have a very, very long day. Also if it's poor weather, you'd potentially have a second shot at going to MP in the morning (I went twice - in late afternoon and the morning). It is probably beneficial to arrange the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu time with a tour agency, if only to make the process of getting the MP tickets easier (it is not all that easy). If you do this, then you don't need to sequence your airline ticket purchase.

Ollantaytambo area has a lot of interesting sites - your itinerary doesn't allow any time to see them. I'd take a day off Lima and allocate it there, especially as you'll need time to adjust to altitude (it's no joke). Lima is a huge, sprawling city, so I'd suggest booking day tours there, if only so that you efficiently get to the places you want to go. Traffic is sheer and utter madness. I personally would not take an overnight bus because I prefer sleeping in a bed, perhaps others will weigh in on the safety of that choice.

It takes at least an hour to get from Lima airport to central city, sometimes more, so make sure your hotel is aware of your late arrival. Likely your return flight will leave in the wee hours of the morning, so your last day (listed as Saturday) may actually be a full day available for sightseeing. I paid for an extra night in a hotel so I could leave my luggage and relax before heading to the airport.

Hopefully you speak some Spanish, as a DIY trip will require some (or a lot of Google translate). I speak a little and found Peruvians spoke very quickly. I also would suggest you find a company that can organize transport for you (one suggestion by prior poster) that would be less stressful and safe.

"I'd stay overnight Aguas Calientes for your Machu Picchu time, otherwise you'll have a very, very long day. Also if it's poor weather, you'd potentially have a second shot at going to MP in the morning (I went twice - in late afternoon and the morning). It is probably beneficial to arrange the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu time with a tour agency, if only to make the process of getting the MP tickets easier (it is not all that easy). If you do this, then you don't need to sequence your airline ticket purchase."

I suppose I could rearrange my itinerary adn spend a night in Aguas Calientes. What difference would it make if there was some fog or clouds at the historic site of Machu Picchu? You go for the site, not for an expansive mountain view. There is the official Peruvian site, you can buy tickets for Machu Picchu on. That is the only place to buy tickets. Even if you reserve a tour, the tour opertor still has to buy you a ticket on the official site. I tried the site but tickets for 2025 have not been released yet but I don't see why buying from the site should be so difficult.

"Ollantaytambo area has a lot of interesting sites - your itinerary doesn't allow any time to see them."

But notice what I put for the two days after my visit to Macchu Picchu.

"I'd take a day off Lima and allocate it there, especially as you'll need time to adjust to altitude (it's no joke). Lima is a huge, sprawling city, so I'd suggest booking day tours there, if only so that you efficiently get to the places you want to go."

Are you sure museums in Lima are that difficult to get to?

"I personally would not take an overnight bus because I prefer sleeping in a bed, perhaps others will weigh in on the safety of that choice."

I understand so far that night buses in Peru are common. Why waste a day on a bus if I could travel at night?

"Likely your return flight will leave in the wee hours of the morning, so your last day (listed as Saturday) may actually be a full day available for sightseeing. I paid for an extra night in a hotel so I could leave my luggage and relax before heading to the airport."

I am leaving and arriving from Detroit. So far the flights I saw for my return flight would leave before 9am and arrive rather late in the evening or early the next day, not "in the wee hours of the morning". Your flights were rather different if you left and arrived from Oregon.

"Hopefully you speak some Spanish"

Aprendí algo de español, pero probablemente mantendré la boca cerrada la mayor parte del tiempo.

Simply sharing opinions Mike, you do you. My point about Ollantaytambo was about visiting the ruins in that city proper, not the other sacred valley sites you listed.

Mike, CL is correct. You should spend a night in Aguas Calientes for the two reasons they suggest. It's often foggy/rainy, and when it is, you can't see as much. Poor weather does matter at Machu Picchu.

You mention a number of museums in Lima, but not the Larco Museum, which is really outstanding.

And I'm sure you didn't intend it this way, but your response to CL comes across as argumentative and defensive. You came here to ask for advice. You'd do well to just see what people say and then, as CL says, you do you. It's not necessary to rebut every point.

I can't really comment on your itinerary, as we went as part of a tour that included Lima, Cusco, Macchu Picchu and the Sacred Valley - so did not use public transportation, and hotels were already set. We did spend a few extra days in Lima on our own, but we stayed in Miraflores district and were able to walk to most of the places we wanted to go. Our tour in Lima included a trip to the Larco Museum, a walk through Barranco, and through the center city and colonial area. On our own we went to Huaca Pucllana and the Amano, and walked through Kennedy Park, as well as along the coast, which is beautiful.

I support the comments that staying in Aguas Calientes might be more efficient for seeing Macchu Picchu - which is is about the site itself - true - but also absolutely about the views - you won't get the full impact of the location without them. Cloudy mornings can burn off by mid-morning or afternoon, but I would really allow an afternoon and a morning at least. Hard rain will make the experience pretty miserable, and possibly difficult to get around. Not sure you can hike to the Sun Gate, that path was closed when we were there unless you were approaching from the Inca Trail - but that would be worthwhile. We did hike up to the Inca Bridge, which was great.

Depending on how you handle high-altitude, you may want to build in more downtime that you normally might.

In Cusco, you might add a tour of Tipon, which is a terraced and irrigated agricultural seed station

Mike, the two sentences below sort of beg for some comment:

"What difference would it make if there was some fog or clouds at the historic site of Machu Picchu? You go for the site, not for an expansive mountain view. "

Seeing Machu Picchu for the first time can be breathtaking.....the beauty is also in the vastness of it all, and realizing "how" it was constructed. As you go thru the site, you will be looking down and around and out. You really will enjoy it much more if you visit it on a nice, clear day. You'll see llamas grazing and then up close. It really is an amazing, unique site.

The comment that morning fog can burn off is absolutely true....maybe not 100% for every single day. But, it was raining lightly as we got off the train, then as we arrived at Machu Picchu, it was foggy (as in low-hanging-cloud type fog).....we pressed on, and when we hiked to our "almost high point," the clouds parted, and we were able to get some fabulous views photos......thank goodness!!! We were part of a multi-country, multi-continent tour, so we had "just that one day" for Machu Picchu.

If there is a lot of moisture when you visit, beware that the wood platforms and wood stairs that supplement the stone steps (in some places) can be very very slick. My husband slid down several stairs, and then a young guide from another group slid down maybe 8 stairs and was stopped only by the lower back of my leg. Luckily no one was hurt. Wear study shoes that have some "grip" to them, and do be very deliberate with every step (on moist days). For the more challenging hike (which we did) sometimes it is more of a "controlled drop of your feet/legs" vs. a step down, as the (stair) steps can be very steep in places, which is amazing since the Incas were rather short.

We did not travel there with National Geographic, but we have been on a few of their expeditions, and likely a group tour with them might be enjoyable for you. They always have fabulous guides and experts.

I agree with fellow posters who advise not to try to do it all solo. Best to have experienced planners and guides.

Enjoy your trip.

I agree with the comments to give yourself two days for Machu Picchu. The scenery is as spectacular as the site, maybe more so. I also would give yourself time to see the sites in Ollantaytambo. I didn’t like Lima much at all, though I did love the Larco museum. The walk along the cliffs over the ocean is nice too. We stayed in Miraflores and felt comfortable walking around.

I chose to do a group tour because getting to MP and the ticket procedures is so complicated. I’d at least want someone to take care of that piece.

Hope you have a great trip. I loved Peru!

I did Peru on my own for about a week. That was 10 years ago but I think some observations are still valid. I went to Sacred Valley, Macchu Picchu but not the other places. Lima just the airport. Most people who go to Arequipa do an overnight to Colca Canyon. Consider that. Lima is worth visiting, but I think you have too much time there. A day trip to Macchu Picchu from Ollantaytambo is fine, although I was there before the tickets got so bureaucratic. You don’t need to stay there overnight. I stayed at the Albergue Ollantaytambo, a great hotel right at the train station, and they arranged my Macchu Picchu ticket. You mention a taxi trip in Sacred Valley, and then one to Pisac. Same thing. There isn’t much in Sacred Valley other than Pisac and Olllantayambo. Don’t try to do Sacred Valley attractions and Cuzco ones the same day. If you’re concerned about best market day in Pisac, don’t be. Frankly, I’m not a big market guy, and you’ll find plenty of shopping on any day in Pisac or anywhere else. I found plenty of local travel agencies in Cuzco that had tours going to various local ruins that I could sign on to at short notice and they were good, so don’t worry, you’ll have a good trip. Agree that Ollantaytambo itself has good ruins and is worth at least a few well rested hours.

Would this itinerary be better? How much time does Cusco need? How much time does Arequipa need just for the town assuming I won't make time for Colca cañón?

Saturday: flights from Detroit to Lima. Sleep in Lima. 1st night.
Sunday: various museums. Sleep in Lima. 2nd night
Monday: various museums or sights. Sleep in Lima. 3nd night
Tuesday: Plane to Cusco, transportation to Ollantaytambo, train to Aguas Calientes. Sleep in Aguas Calientes. 4th night.
Wednesday: Bus to Machu Picchu ruins. Bus back to Aguas caleintes, train to Ollantaytambo. Sleep in Ollantaytambo. 5th night
Thursday: ruins in Ollantaytambo. Transportation to Cusco. Sleep in Cusco. 6th night
Friday: various museums. Sleep in Cusco. 7th night
Saturday: Taxi tour or guided tour of sites outside Cusco. Sleep in Cusco. 8th night
Sunday: Taxi tour or guided tour of ruins inside or next to Cusco. 9th night.
Monday: Plane to Arequipa. Various museums. Sleep in Arequipa. 10th night
Tuesday: various museums. 11th night on the bus to Nazca.
Wednesday: flight over the nazca lines. Other tour if extra time? 12th night on the bus to Lima.
Thursday: various outdoor sites or museums. Sleep in Lima again. 13th night
Friday. Various sites or museums. Sleep in Lima again. 14th night.
Saturday: flights back to Detroit arriving late evening or early Sunday.

A bit too much night busing and time in Lima for my taste, but you know your own travel style best and it seems workable. I think that is sufficient time for Cusco and its day trips. Your first Tuesday plan relies on a couple of travel connections working smoothly in a country where they don’t, always. You’ll likely want your train reserved in advance, so what happens if the plane is late? I know there are pros and cons to making Macchu Picchu a day trip from Olla (on Wednesday), but I would consider that to build in a bit more wiggle room with this tight schedule, plus, you could stay 2 nights in Olla and avoid one of your hotel moves, and you could just take a day bag to M-P and back rather than all your luggage.

Thanks for your input. The reason I thought of the second itinerary is because I thought I had been persuaded that I needed to spend a night in Aguas Calientes. But I don't want to risk missing my train or risk buying train tickets at the last minute after i arrive. Now I am thinking I will stick with my previous idea of doing the Machu Picchu ruins as a day trip from Ollantaytambo. You can enter the site as late as 2pm. I would rather show up at the entrance early and sit and wait somewhere than to risk arriving too late after my chosen time and missing the site. I am thinking I will go with my previous itinerary at the top. ...

I accept that I might not fit in every museum or site that looks like it could be appealing. I am trying to avoid wasting too much time sitting and waiting. I don't want to risk missing my buses, trains, planes, and advance tickets. I want to do a self-planned trip but I am open to day or part day guided tours. I am trying to minimize my consumption sumption of restaurant food. In Pisac mainly I want the ruins, and the market only if I don't have food with me and/or so my driver can have a break if I do a taxi tour. My rule in travel has been, I buy no souvineers, or just one t-shirt, and a mug to eat out of if necessary.

You should do some research on food - and water - in Peru. Lots of warnings about consuming fresh food from markets and street food stands, because it is washed with the local water, which is generally tolerated by Peruvians, but not anyone else. Make sure your fruit and veg are peeled (you will see peeled tomatoes even on restaurant salads), your food is cooked, get your water bottled or from filtered water dispensers at your hotel. We ate packaged foods, or at restaurants, and of course on the tour ate at specific places. And bring your immodium, just in case ;) Not saying you have to eat at restaurants, just be aware of what and where you are eating.

Ditto what the above poster advises re: food/water.

Also, not that you would eat one (but many tourists do give it a try) , but just to be aware, guinea pigs ( called cuy, in case you see on a menu ) are a common (and enjoyed) food in Peru. Everyone on our tour was rather surprised to learn that.

I was afraid restaurant food is too unhealthy. I didn't eat any restaurant food in Germany in 2024 and or in Spain. In Mexico I had street food at least 7 times and non-high-class food at restaurants with table service, twice. If I eat restaurant food at least once in Peru I will try the guinea pig.

In Spain in March 2022, I got off the plane before 9am on a Sunday, got to my first hotel at about 6pm, got a horrifying disease that affected my digestive tract, which lasted from about noon on the first Tuesday until sometime early the next day and then I was 75-90% better for the rest of that day and then I was fine for the rest of my trip. I suppose I could have gotten too dehydrated and needed a hospital or worse. I went to a pharmacy 2 times, the first time i got Loperamide Hydrochloride. The second time I got some kind of probiotic power that came in a little box with individual servings in rod-shaped packets that I emptied into my mouth and consumed with bottled water. I did not get sick in any way in Mexico in August-Sept 2023.

Do be very careful of the food snd drink you eat. I’m extremely careful and got very ill in Peru. Hubby was worse.
We used Inca Tours for day trips.

I think your most recent itinerary looks feasible, and anyway I've long given up tweaking itineraries by moving one day from this place to that one, or from that one to another one; that never seems to get anywhere. So I'll just add a few comments, based on ten trips to Peru (most recently a month ago) across the last 20 years.

First, the three full days you’re devoting to Lima — your first Saturday and Sunday, and your final Friday, plus maybe part of your final Thursday -- are an absolute minimum for this great city, and in fact totally inadequate; but there’s nothing to be done about it: if you stay in Lima long enough to see all that it offers, you won’t make it to anywhere else in Peru on your two-week trip! So for a two week trip to Peru, even I would agree, reluctantly, to just two or three full days in Lima, but only because you have so much more to see in Peru.

(But those who would claim that one or two days in Lima are always enough no matter what -- and they are out there -- are, I think, victims of a "self-fulling-prophecy" situation: they themselves spend only a day or two in Lima, if they spend any time at all, and so they never acquaint themselves with all the city has to offer -- so of course they then return to forums like this and tell people that Lima is "worth" only a day or two. Don't make that mistake yourself!)

A few other points, mainly about Lima:

On my recent trip, the National Museum of Anthropology etc. was closed, but keep track of it on the internet, for sooner or later it’s bound to re-open.

Note also that unless things have changed since I was there about a decade or more ago, a trip to Pachacamac, though well worth it, may take the better part of a day. And by the way, I would avoid formalized site names like “Santuario Arqueologico de Pachacamac”; everybody in Lima just calls it “Pachacamac.” (Call it “Santuario Arqueologico de Pachacamac” in Lima, and people will just think you’re trying to be clever or something.)

Also, if you’re interested in Lima’s ancient sites, Huaca Pucllana and Pachacamac are great choices, but maybe also put some thought into a third: Mateo Salado, on the north edge of Pueblo Libre at Plaza de la Bandera (and about a 20-minute walk north of the National Museum of Anthropology etc.). It’s at least as large a site as Huaca Pucllana; and though not as nicely restored, it’s in sufficiently good shape, I think, to be worth visiting. (And if you do visit, you’ll be one of us select tourists who have!)

More generally, I'm assuming that the hour-spans you place in parentheses are the opening hours for the various sites you mention. (That is, I don't think you're really planning to stay in the Qoricancha from 8:30 to 5:30, but if that's what you meant, you may want to rethink that.)

Finally, unless there is no risk involved in postponing your plane-ticket purchase until after Machu Picchu tickets become available, I would recommend buying those plane tickets beforehand . I can picture ten thousand tourist mouths flying open in disbelief at this, but you can have a fantastic trip to Peru even if you don't see Machu Picchu. (I myself made five very rewarding trips to Peru before seeing Machu Picchu for the first time, on my sixth.) Yes, Machu Picchu is a great place to see, and definitely see it if you can get a ticket; but Peru has so many other great destinations to see as well. In my opinion, saying that Peru isn't worth visiting if you can't make it to Machu Picchu, is rather like saying that western Europe isn't worth visiting if you can't make it to the Versailles Palace -- and you can imagine what Mr. Steves would say about that! (And in fact, Peru could contain all of coastal continental Europe from Portugal up through the Netherlands, plus Switzerland.)

Thanks for your input. I am going with my original itinerary unless I find a reason to change it when I am making reservations; with one night in Lima at the beginning, 4 nights in Lima at the end, Machu Picchu as a day trip from Ollantaytambo. The original way I fit in Nazca involves spending a night in a hotel in Nazca, avoiding going too long without showering on the way to and from Nazca. In case tickets to Machu Picchu sell out on the date I have in my itinerary, if I can get a ticket on another day within my time in Peru I would re-do my itinerary around seeing it another day. In case I can't get a ticket to the site on any day, I am unsure whether it would still make sense to go to Cusco or to skip Cusco and add in Trujillo and ruins in northern Peru. A few sites in Northern Peru listed in my guidebooks are Kuélap, Chavín de Huántar, Chan Chan, and some stuff close to Trujillo.

Times I gave are just opening hours from google maps. I won´t stay at a place the whole time it is open. I got site names from google maps but I will remember that people typically drop the "Sitio Arqueológico" or otherwise abbreviate place names.

Mike: Though the trips have been spread out over the years, I have seen all of the northern-Peru sites you mentioned, and they would all make excellent alternative choices if you are not able to get Machu Picchu tickets (though I'm sure you'll get them if you act when they become available). And in addition to those, there are also the several archaeological sites and museums in Lambayeque Department (i.e., "state"), where your base city would probably be Chiclayo.

Anyway, I'm sure you'll make it to Machu Picchu, but if you do end up going to northern Peru, I would seriously suggest looking into the Kuelap-Chachapoyas area. I was there in 2019, and at least in my opinion, it's absolutely superb.

Another thing: is it safer or better to take flights that arrive at Lima at 8 to 10pm or 5am-9am? Or does it matter?

(If you are not tired of me yet), when you went to Cusco, how much time did you spend in just the town of Cusco (not including the ruins next to Cusco, nearby towns like Ollantaytambo, "sacred valley" ruins, or Machu Picchu)?