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Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island

My husband and I just celebrated our 50th wedding anniversary and this is our trip. We are planning a trip to Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island for July 2018. We fly into Halifax on July 7 PM and fly out on July 17 around early afternoon. So that gives us 9 full days to see both islands. My husband and I are in our early 70's and the other couple traveling with us are in their 60's. So we won't do much hiking. We will probably rent through AirBnB or HomeAway. We also want to make the best use of our funds.

Number 1 that we want to do is whale watching. So where is the best place to do that from? I have seen places near Bay of Fundy and also on Cape Breton advertised. What are your suggestions as to the best place to try this?

Number 2 is that we want seafood....lobster in particular. My husband will eat lobster every day if he can. So where can we get the best lobster? Local spots appeal to us. On another post it mentioned a lobster carnival in July but that post was from 2016. Is that a yearly thing? When is it this year?
Number 3 is my love for Anne of Green Gables so we will plan at least 2 days on PEI.

Number 4 We love the beach and the ocean. The ocean is the most relaxing sound and place to me. So where would you suggest we go?
Number 5 - We would love some local entertainment. We went to Ireland in 2016 and loved the music. Where is the best place to get some local culture and lively music? One post mentioned a Gaelic college. Where is that?

Thank you in advance for your help. I am so excited to make this trip.

Posted by
1937 posts

I can't answer most of your questions, but I can recommend that you spend a couple of nights in Baddeck, NS, and attend a Ceilidh. Check out http://www.baddeckgathering.com/.

Also, allow a full day to drive the Cabot Trail on Cape Breton Island. It is one of the most scenic drives I've ever done. Baddeck is a good base to start and end the drive. You could also spend multiple days to explore it more fully, but it seems you have a lot of other things to see and do.

Posted by
4657 posts

I used to live in Halifax but it has been a while since visitkng that area of country. I find PEI needs more than 2 nights, but you onky jsve so much time. On last visit we did a highland dance show. We were staying in Charlottetown somit was a bit of a drive back at night, but an enjoyable show. There are also some wonderful highland games in various areas of Nova Scotia all through the summer.
Personally, I would consider 2 alternative sources for up to date info.....a certain destination specific trip advising forum, and the province's websites. You can downloadmor request paper copies of their guides. They have methods to search for activities by dates and narrow down the type of activity.
Lunenberg NS is a UNESCO heritage site. There are areas of it erest for the Acadian expulsion that sent the french to areas as far south as New Orleans. Fort Louisburg offers something for those with an j terest of early French Canada. Baddeck is a lovely area.
PEI used to offer Lobster Suppers. Long family style tables complete with gingham tablecloths and plastic bibs. With an apartment, you can buy lobster at the lobster pounds and cook them yourselves.
'Best' is all relative and personal. With such few days and all these provinces has to offer, I wouldn't spend a lot of time out of my way looking for someone elses definition of 'best'. Enjoy every fish or clam shack you come by. Chart a route, then see what whale watching options come by. July has whales in Newfoundland and Boston, so I would think points east eould be more exciting than Bay of Fundy for diverse whale types, but it isn't where I go for whales.

Posted by
4657 posts

I had to go to work. Beach....Cavendish Beach in PEI is warmer than NS beaches. vast reddish sand. Some NS beaches are just stone and the water is cold.
In my younger days, the Maritime bed and breakfasts were inexpensive and the hosts were characters. One Thanksgiving we drove the Cabot Trail in Cape Breton and had a b&b booked. We spent the evening at a friends house, but came back to find they had been having a kitchen party teaching guests how to play spoons. Another time there was a major rain and power outage in PEI. our tent was soaked (as every other camper) and the Island sent out messages to all people who had or used to do B&B. A pig farm opened up their B&B facilities to us and then opened up the living room floor to others. Thankfully the wind was blowing away from the house, but the quiet snuffling of pigs was actually very relaxing and conducive to slumber.
So, this is to say that the people of the Maritimes are characters you shouldn't miss. With such few days, you may prefer bed and breakfasts rather than apartments, as to maximize your time, you may be on the road more often than considered. Sure, in Halifax you can do an apartment if in one place a few days, but the other regions mean a lot more driving than you may consider, and so the back and forth of day trips - just to have a home base - may be more tiring than intended. So, do consider a mix of accommodations.

Posted by
3941 posts

You can really hit the highlights of Halifax in one really full day. If you want a slower pace, 2 days would be good - Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, the gorgeous Public Library on Spring Garden Road (just to go in and look around for a half hour). The Public Gardens (also Spring Garden Rd). Citadel Hill. Def walk the waterfront. The Seaport Farmer's Market. All these places are within walking distance of each other if you have a good central downtown spot.

Also, Halifax is good to base for day trips to the South Shore - Lunenburg (where my mother in law is from) is lovely. Mahone Bay. Chester. Peggy's Cove. All can be done in one day.

I'd prob do the whale watching somewhere in Cape Breton. I'd give CB 2 nights at least - especially if you want to do whale watching. You could head for the Annapolis Valley for a day, but perhaps it's a bit out of the way for what you want to do - (IMO) too far as a day trip from Halifax. BUT - you have Annapolis Royal, Grand Pre, the pretty uni town of Wolfville, the Lookoff (scenic overlook of the Valley) make a nice day. Brier Island/Digby is the place to go whale watching - they usually recommend early morning for best chance, so you should be in the area.

I can't help too much with lobster - don't eat it. We always frequent the same beach on the Northumberland Strait and it isn't anything special (Brule beach).

I will give one hint - if you are going to PEI - I'd head there after Cape Breton. You can drive to Pictou and take the ferry over. (Check the schedules). Getting ON the island is free. You pay when you leave, and it is cheaper to take the Confederation Bridge. If you wanted to visit the Annapolis Valley, you could do a loop...Halifax/day trip to South Shore...Drive to Cape Breton...ferry to PEI...come back over the bridge and spend a night in the Valley if desired.

Posted by
3575 posts

Love Nova Scotia! In regards to the whale watching, which we did when we were there. There are WW signs all over and so not just one place to do it from. I can’t remember the name of the town we did it from, but we did see whales. However, they are right whales, not the humpbacks I was used to seeing on Maui. IMHO they are not as interesting to watch as they don’t do the acrobatics the Humpbacks do.

Posted by
32363 posts

Linda,

That area is beautiful and you may wish you had booked more time there. A few thoughts.....

  1. If you're going to be in the Digby area, one Whale Watching trip you can consider is this one - http://www.ppww.ca/ . The crew is very professional and the boat is larger with lots of seating.
  2. If you're going to be in the Shediac area, you could take a few hours to enjoy a "Lobster cruise" - http://lobstertales.ca/Index_en.html . The cruise travels a short distance from shore and the crew explains everything you need to know about Lobsters. After that you'll be served a Lobster lunch (those that don't eat Lobster can get chicken or vegetarian options).
  3. Although a fictional story, the Anne of Green Gables site is worth a visit (IMO). You might want to watch the movie before you go there - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=czJi_FpLBYY .
  4. One of the most beautiful beaches I saw in that area was Cavendish Beach - http://cavendishbeachpei.com/ .
  5. There's a Gaelic College in St. Ann's in the Cape Breton region. Is this the one you're thinking of - http://gaeliccollege.edu/ .

If you have the time, the Alexander Graham Bell Museum in Baddeck is also very interesting - https://www.pc.gc.ca/en/lhn-nhs/ns/grahambell .

If you're going to be driving over the Confederation Bridge, as I recall there's only a toll in one direction (currently $47 for a car).

If you're interested, there are a couple of historic ships that can be toured in Halifax. They're moored near the Maritime Museum. One is the HMCS Sackville, which is a WW-II vintage Flower Class Corvette. I believe the other one is the CSS Acadia. If you visit the Maritime Museum, be sure to have a look at the exhibits covering the 1917 explosion (you might want to take one of the guided tours to get the full story on the explosion).

Lunenburg is another beautiful and historic place in that area - https://www.novascotia.com/explore/top-25/lunenburg .

Posted by
238 posts

Hi
My first recommendation is to book your accommodations asap.

Both provinces are beautiful areas. I'll assume you are starting in Halifax. others have mentioned the historic sites in Halifax. In addition to those there is Pt. Pleasant Park on the Halifax Harbour, The Public Gardens on Spring Garden Road.
Fish - wonderful area for fish.Some excellent seafood restaurants in Halifax include: McKelvies, Salty's, and my all time favourite the Five Fisherman. the 5 Fisherman has casual dining on an outdoor patio and more elegant dining inside. I would opt for inside.

Entertainment Halifax with live music: The Old Triangle Prince Street Halifax, and the Split Crow on Granville St near the Historic Properties.

PEI: There are great beaches at Cavendish and Rustico in addition to the one Nicole mentioned.
There are lots of B&Bs in Charlottetown, try the BB Canada website. Charlottetown has several good seafood restaurants in particular I can recommend the Claddagh Oyster House.

Lobster Suppers on PEI: probably the most well known and delicious is the New Glasgow Lobster Suppers in Rustico reachable from Charlottetown.
Live entertainment Charlottetown: there is and Old Triangle in Ctown as well.

Cape Breton Island
Whale watching: can't help you there.
Sights: the Cabot Trail, the reconstructed Fortress Louisbourg, Miners Museum, Bell Museum.
Baddeck is a beautiful small resort town and would serve as a good base.
Lobester: Baddeck Lobster Suppers.
The Big Spruce Brewery just off the Trans Canada outside Baddeck, besides having great Craft Beer has entertainment Friday afternoons and perhaps other times.

On your way into Baddeck driving from Halifax in a small place near Whycocogmagh called Charlene's Bayside is small diner the serves the best seafood chowder you will ever experience. She uses 8 different types of seafood and is renowned.

When you cross into Cape Breton there is a tourist information centre and you can ask about venues for live entertainment, usually small gatherings called Ceilidhs.

Enjoy your visit

Posted by
3941 posts

Just want to clarify re: the beach we go to (Brule)...it’s in Nova Scotia, up near Tatamagouche.

Posted by
5837 posts

Number 2 is that we want seafood....lobster in particular.

New Glasgow Lobster Suppers
604 Route 258, New Glasgow, PEI
https://peilobstersuppers.com/

Number 1 that we want to do is whale watching.
Right coast options:
https://www.fodors.com/news/top-5-whale-watching-spots-in-new-england-and-atlantic-canada-11518

Bay of Fundy, New Brunswick & Nova Scotia June–October; August is peak
season.

Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia May–mid-October; August is the best
month for snorkeling with whales.

Left coast options:
https://visittheoregoncoast.com/whale-watching/

Gray whales migrate South from their feeding grounds in the Bering and
Chukchi seas around Alaska from mid-December through January. They are
heading to their breeding grounds in Baja California, Mexico, where
warm-water lagoons become nurseries for expectant mothers. Then from
late March to June the whales migrate North back to Alaska.

http://mauiwhalewatching.com/

...North Pacific Humpback Whales in their natural environment. Year,
after year, these magical mammals grace Hawaiian waters and shorelines
for their annual Winter migration through the North Pacific Ocean
(roughly November-May).

Posted by
4 posts

Thanks everyone that is posting. I really appreciate all the information. My 97 year old mother died yesterday so I might not get to check this all out till next week. But I am reading and learning.

Posted by
323 posts

We have to agree with Lane be sure and take in a Ceilidh in Beddeck and we must vote for the bay of Fundy. It is spectacular. We were camping when we went and we were on a whale watching trip when the planes flew into the twin towers. The Canadians were wonderful, they few American flags all over. We wound up staying until October, but that was our plan all along.

Posted by
221 posts

Lots of good suggestions above, but I’ll add my two cents worth. If you’re interested in ocean, beaches and music, I suggest you head up the west/northwest side of Cape Breton Island, along route 19, which is named the “Ceilidh Trail” as it is the heartland of Cape Breton fiddling. Some of Canada’s best known fiddlers, the late Buddy MacMaster, Natalie MacMaster and Ashley MacIsaac all have roots in this area. The tourist info centre at Judique can give you a list of who’s playing where, and the Red Shoe Pub in Mabou (redshoepub.com) has live music every night in the summer. Baddeck is also a pretty town to visit, but it’s not really on the open sea, and the Ceilidh experience there is in a town hall rather than a pub. There are nice sandy beaches up the west side also, in particular around Inverness. There’s also a single malt distillery (but don’t call it “scotch”) just outside Mabou- the Glenora Distillery- which is worth a tour/tasting if you’re into that sort of thing. You can drive the Cabot Trail from Mabou (or from Baddeck) in a day, but it’s quite a long day of driving to do the round trip.

In Halifax, the harbour is a great and lively area for strolling around in, and there are plenty of bars and restaurants with live music in the evening. Also, the citadel is an interesting place to tour.
For lobsters, PEI is your best bet. If you have an apartment rental, then pick up your lobsters at a lobster pound, and take them home to eat. They’ll even cook them for you at most pounds.
Enjoy!

Posted by
32363 posts

Linda,

I would also like to add my sincere condolences on your loss.

Posted by
4 posts

We leave in the morning. We are driving to Atlanta and meeting another couple we will be traveling with. Saturday we fly to Halifax. So our journey is about to begin. We are soooooo excited to get to do this now. I will definitely come back after we get home and fill you in on the things we enjoyed.
Thank all of you for your suggestions and help in planning our trip.