New Orleans, Louisiana

...will be listening to jazz the three nights we are there, so any local and not so touristy places...

Google Preservation Hall and see if it strikes your fancy. No booze, no food, just pure music. Not everybody's cup of tea, but outstanding for the purist. Also google Tuba Skinny to see if they have a schedule available. They are a fantastic band that has been together about 10 or 12 years. They do a lot of busking on Royal Street during the day, and play at some clubs at night. Enjoy!

Take are, parts of the city are unsafe, especially after dark.

I'll recommend the Commodore's Palace for a good meal.

The WWII museum has tours. I recommend that too.

Glad to see Tuba Skinny getting some love! They're incredible.

If you have been to any WW2 museum in Europe, or the Imperial War Museum in London, you might find the WW2 museum in New Orleans to be a huge letdown - that was my reaction.

We were just there and got back yesterday.

For music we really liked Fritzel's. No food there, just drinks and music but really fun. Buffa's was good too, they have food there. Check who's playing to see if it appeals. We bought our tickets online a few hours in advance to be sure to get a seat.

For tours we really liked this cemetery tour
https://cemeterytourneworleans.com/

For a general tour of the French quarter, this one is excellent https://www.friendsofthecabildo.org/

Thanks for the information. We are scrapping official tours and using guide books to get around. That is usually what we do anyway and it works out well. So now looking at sites to see, food and jazz. Feel like can't go wrong with food and jazz no matter where we go. Will concentrate on Frenchmen Street instead of Bourbon Street. Still looking for a really good restaurant on Lake Ponchatrain. There are so many to choose from. Maybe someone has eaten at one and can vouch for it. Thanks again. Linda

It think the restaurant KGC references is meant to be Commanders Palace. It is excellent and our friends in New Orleans routinely name it as the best restaurant in a city of outstanding eateries. I wouldn’t call it casual however. Stay safe.

Hi Linda. Great food (pricey): Muriel’s, Jacques Imo’s, Any Brennan’s (Palace Cafe, Mr. B’s, Brennan’s, Commander’s Palace), Broussards. Moderate: Zea’s Cafe, Copeland’s, Drago’s, Parkway Bakery for po-boys. Best swamp tour: Honey Island Swamp, need a reservation. Walk out on a boardwalk in the swamp: Jean Lafitte Park in Lafitte, free. WW2 Museum, great Aquarium. Food Tour is fun! You might be lucky enough to catch a St. Patrick’s Day/ItalianIrish Parade. Have fun, don’t wander off away from crowds at night. R&O’s next to lake (but no lake view) for moderate meal, good lunches. Check out St. Louis Cathedral, French Market, Royal Street. Laissez les bon temps rouler!

Preservation Hall is always solid for music. There are a lot of other good venues around Frenchman Street, too. One of the finest clarinetists in the city, Doreen Ketchens, often plays (along with her band) in front of the Rouses market on Royal Street during the day. She doesn't play nightclubs. I always try to see if Kermit Ruffins and/or Glen David Andrews are playing somewhere. Both are fantastic musicians and performers.

I eat mostly in moderately priced places. Long time faves include Napoleon House, Gumbo Shop, Praline Connection (in the Marigny), and Tujaques (a little pricey). Also, a muffuletta from Central Grocery is always a must.

One of my favorite off-beat places to visit is the Backstreet Cultural Museum in the Treme. The gentleman who ran it died a few years ago, and so I am not sure what it is like now, but it used to be that they would clue you in on any upcoming second lines or jazz funerals. Information from the Backstreet Museum has led me to some absolutely jaw-droppingly amazing, non-touristy experiences --- like this: https://mariematthews.smugmug.com/Mardi-Gras-Indians/.

I really enjoyed Snug Harbor for live music: https://snugjazz.com

The NOLA art museum has a wonderful sculpture garden, worth checking out: https://noma.org

I will second Agnes’s recommendation for Snug Harbor. It’s a small venue and you are really close to the musicians.

Forgot to mention, but you must try the beignets and coffee at Cafe du Monde. Should not be on anyone's diet, but absolutely marvelous.

One of my favorite off-beat places to visit is the Backstreet Cultural Museum in the Treme.

Oh, that's one of my favorite places in NOLA! I love that museum. The Indian costumes exhibited here are breathtaking – it's hard to believe how many hours of work went into the making of these beautiful pieces. It's worth going just to see these alone. I didn't realize the owner had died - the last time I was there was probably 7-8 years ago, and he gave me a tour of everything. Speaking of Treme, if you have a chance to watch the show "Treme" (streams on HBO but others have it for rent), it was a wonderful series about New Orleans and the people there.

I second the rec for Frenchman St. for music - there are some wonderful musicians there and in other venues in the Marigny, like Snug Harbor, d.b.a., Blue Nile and the Spotted Cat. It's a fun district - it used to be much less touristed than the French Quarter - not sure if that's still true. And yes to trying to hear Kermit Ruffins play! He is amazing!

One of the best meals I ever had was at Bayonna, owned by Chef Susan Spicer, on Dauphine St. I ordered the veal sweetbreads with lemon caper butter. It was the first time I'd ever eaten sweetbreads and this dish blew my mind. I still think of it and the incredible meld of flavors. In fact, I remember that dish more than most others I've had over the years.. That will be the first place I eat when I go back. Also make sure you get a Po Boy - there are lots of places that have good ones. And I will also second the rec for Cafe du Monde beignets - oh the joy of eating one of those!

Definitely take a walk in the Garden District - this is one of my favorite things to do when I go there. You can get in some celebrity house watching if you like. John Goodman has a house in the district and lives there primarily; so does Sandra Bullock although she's not there much. But the houses and gardens are gorgeous and well worth a visit. It's a fun place to walk and get away from the raucousness of the French Quarter. Also don't forget to visit the cemeteries - there is so much history and atmosphere there. My favorites are St Louis Cemetery No. 1 and No. 3 and Lafayette Cemetery No. 1. There are tours that go through them also, but I like walking through them by myself.

Your post just made me realize it has been too long since I've been there. I use to go every 3-4 years but it's been a while. Have a wonderful trip - I think you will love NOLA!

I so appreciate all of the wonderful suggestions for our visit! Can't wait to get there and explore. My friend and I are taking our husbands there for their March birthdays. It hopefully will be a surprise until we arrive at the airport! I will report back when we return.
Thanks again all of you for taking the time to reply to my note. Linda

You will have a great time in New Orleans! My husband and I were raised in South Louisiana We have taken a trolley from Canal Street to the Garden District and to the Cemetery for a tour there, sounds weird to some people, but the cemeteries are different and interesting. Breakfast at Brennans is great! My favorite dish there is the crabmeat omelet! May need reservations. I don't eat jambalaya or gumbo there because I make it at home. I do like to get crayfish étouffée and fried frog legs there because I can't get them easily here in Colorado .The French Market is a good place to wander, get a good po-boy sandwich and shop. The Tabasco Store is fun to visit. I have a Gallon Jug of Tabasco sitting on my kitchen counter that I bought there. I have never let anyone open it! We enjoyed the WWII museum.

Have a Great trip!

So many great suggestions above. One I’d add is the Ogden Museum of Southern Arts.

It is interesting and fun to take the streetcars. You will really see New Orleans that way.

New Orleans is a great city. You are going to have a wonderful time.

I would recommend visiting the St Louis cemetery #1 I think is the name? We did a tour, but I’m sure you’ll be fine with a guide book.
I enjoyed the ferry ride to Old Algiers and drinking/dancing with locals at a little bar there, walking around at dusk there felt safe.
I visited during Jazz Fest (over 10 years ago, so I won’t recommend food as I’m sure things change) but I never got to visit the Garden District and it’s on my list for next time.
I’m also interested in visiting the Treme neighborhood on our next visit. NOLA was on our short list of places to go in April, as my hubby had never been.
Have fun. The people are so kind. It’s a wonderful, lively, lovely place.

The New Orleans African American Museum is wonderful. It’s very near the Backstreet Cultural Museum