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Morocco …. Can we travel independently safely ?

We would like to rent a car and drive our itinerary including Marrakesh, Atlas Mountains to Tamadot, Ait Ben Haddou, Merzouga, then drive or train to Fez and Chefchaouan. Also not sure which direction to begin. We love having the freedom to stop and take our time and always rent a car as we prefer independent travel. Only thing holding me back is, is this safe ? We don’t drive at night. I wanted to consult with RS consultants but they are not available presently. any thoughts on safety and or if you’ve done this trip and any highlights, do not miss, favorite experiences ? I appreciate any assistance. Planning for September for about 10 days, two adults
Thank you
Caroline

Posted by
5262 posts

Two adults? Male and female or both female? If both female I would advise caution about such a trip. I haven't undertaken such a trip but having witnessed the attitudes towards women in Morocco, particularly Westerners, and heard many scare stories I wouldn't recommend it.

Posted by
4517 posts

I had dozens of bad experiences traveling solo so recommend approaching this trip with caution. It's not a typical country and culture. Stay together even in daylight. If 2 woman I wouldn't recommend it. FWIW I would never go back.

Jordan gets good marks for independent travel and has top quality sites, probably higher quality than Morocco, but haven't visited.

Posted by
7663 posts

Morocco is probably the safest country in N. Africa to travel on your own. That really isn't saying much.

I would advise against two women traveling alone in Morocco., especially by car.

I have been to Morocco twice and enjoyed the country, but would recommend taking a tour or if independent travel, don't rent a car. Take local day tours.

Posted by
6788 posts

I've been to Morocco several times. First as a solo (male) backpacker. Second and third as a couple.

First time, when alone, I did get hassled a lot by the touts. Nothing at all threatening, it just became tiresome warding off all the offers for a "guide" or just "to practice English". I got, well, lets just say pretty brusque, pre-emptively screaming F##K! OFF! at any young male who approached me. That was after a week of politely declining all offers and then just ignoring/pretending I didn't understand. The most aggressive touts I've experienced. No safety concerns at all (although it's easy for your imagination to run wild needlessly).

Second and third trips were much better. In part, because I was not alone all the time, but I'd also attribute it to laws passed (and actively enforced) against hassling tourists too aggressively. On the subsequent trips, I did go out alone for short errands, and while I did attract more touty attention walking alone versus as a couple, it was nowhere near what I had experienced previously. Maybe it was the lack of a large, visible backback, maybe it was because I was older, maybe because I was giving off a clear, confident "don't bother trying me" vibe. But I think the government's (relative) crackdown made a big difference.

For example, on my last trip there (about 7 years ago), my spouse and I were on foot, approaching the new rail station in Marrakesh (which was spectacular, immaculate, all gleaming polished stones and put even most European railway stations to shame)...from a block away, as I warned my spouse we might encounter some tout annoyances there, I noticed how uncrowded the place looked outside. In fact, the only men I saw outside the station who were clearly "hanging out" (standing around, looking not at all like travelers), were about a half-dozen serious-looking men aged 20s-30s, all had sharp-looking dress suits, shiny black shoes, and very dark Ray-bans. As soon as we crossed the street and stepped onto the grounds of the station, a much-less neat-looking man appeared and started moving straight towards us, but he was quickly intercepted by a couple of the Ray-ban guys, who turned out to be security staff of some sort. Two had headed off the tout, and were giving him a lecture (apparently about leaving tourists alone) as we walked by. It seemed a bit heavy-handed, but I wasn't about to complain.

I've rented a car in Marrakech, drove it over the High Atlas Mountains (got a chance to stop, get out, have a snowball fight - in Africa), drove to some (not all) of the places you mention. Drove back and returned the car in Marrakech. Other than driving in Marrakech itself (be super-careful, it's fairly chaotic...just get the car and drive out), I found the driving easy and straightforward. Do watch out for pedestrians walking on the road (going over the mountains, we saw many men selling geodes on the road). Otherwise, it's not difficult.

The train between Marrakech and Fes was good (a legacy of the French). They were building a high speed line for that route, maybe they've finished it by now. If not, plan for a long day on the train, but it's perfectly comfortable, clean, safe, as good as (in some cases better than) many lesser train systems around Europe.

One tip: You do NOT need any sort of "guide" to enter the medinas, even the huge, maze-like medinas in Marrakech and Fes. I like to take a tiny compass along, I found it helped keep me oriented. Entering the medinas is like stepping back in time to the middle ages. They are maze-like and yes, it's easy to get disoriented in there, but don't worry, it's not scary, it's just a very old neighborhood where people live, work and shop. Everyone will try to scare you and tell you that you won't survive after setting foot in there, but that's nonsense. Wander and you'll eventually find yourself back at the point you entered -- just pay attention to your surroundings (and your wallet).

Posted by
104 posts

We are a middle aged husband and wife who are well traveled. i’m so appreciative of your comments !!

Posted by
4517 posts

David: Glad things have gotten better, 30 years ago Morocco was indescribably awful.

Jordan still looks like a better choice for caliber of sites, and do you really want to visit a country where they stopped treating visitors like garbage only because the police started to demand better behavior?

Posted by
103 posts

As a woman, I traveled solo through Morocco and it was wonderful, but I would not rent a car. I traveled by bus occasionally, but mostly by train. It is much safer that way. You don’t want to get pulled over by the police or just harassed, because it is clear you are tourists.

In the major cities, I have hired guides, for walking tours. You can also hire guides to take you on camping adventures in the Sahara. Also guides can keep you away from any problem areas.

Posted by
1507 posts

In 2018 when we were in our early 70s we spent one month of independent travel in Morocco. We didn't rent a car but used all kinds of public transportation, train, bus, taxi, and plane within the country. We mainly stayed in riads in the Medinas. We did have an overnight guided tour to a desert camp because we didn't want to rent a car and hired taxis for some day trips. I will say that the trip I planned was better suited to someone 20 years younger but we didn't have any issues as far as safety. We enjoyed Morocco. It is a beautiful country with a variety of scenery, historical and architectural sights,and delicious food.

I can't tell you if your plan is safe but can only add our experience to that of the other responses. Good luck in your planning.

Posted by
10189 posts

We spent a few weeks there around the same time as Tom. We stayed with a French friend who was in a city in the Atlas mountains and used his old Peugeot to travel to the main cities Another of our friends in the group had spent part of her childhood in Marrakech. We were invited for meals and tea in private homes, welcomed at a Berber festival, my husband with the men, while I danced with the women--although I resembled a sickly aspirin tablet compared to their glowing olive and henna skin. We traveled extensively. Despite the hospitality, we also encountered enough conniving and hostility that the touts left less of an impression. Certainly the memory of colonialism, being French speakers, the political situation there at the time all contributed. We had other bad experiences. I have no desire to return, ever.

Posted by
811 posts

it's a relatively safe country, ppl are very warm, speak some French can be hepful when you're on the road. I took a group tour to the places you listed, not expensive, and it's pretty relaxiing. Small van with a few other travelers and the driver is very experienced. We passed through mulitple checkpoints, be sure to have your papers ready. Mt. Atlas was a little bit challenging on our way back, it rained and snowed heavily. They don't clean roads like we do here, so if you're caught in the traffic you're stuck, just be prepared.

Posted by
21 posts

Hi Carol,

Irrespective whether you both are females or a female & male (whichever permutation) I feel its not at all safe to travel to Morroco on a self drive.As per my sensibility its a bad idea.Sorry for being a bummer, but safety first.Hot Air Balloon Flight over Marrakech with Traditional Breakfast is definitely not to miss.Also, you can travel from Marrakech to the Ouzoud Waterfalls to see mountain landscapes.

Posted by
25 posts

My trip to Morocco was about 25 years ago so it may no longer be relevant. I found it difficult traveling as a woman. I was traveling with a Moroccan man which made everything easier but anytime I ventured somewhere alone I was harassed. We were also pulled over for ostensibly driving through a red light although we literally coasted through the tail end of a green light that turned yellow so if you are going to drive I would be VERY careful. That being said, I found Morocco to be a beautiful country and I am currently planning a return trip for May of 2023.

Posted by
6 posts

We travelled by rented car from Agadir to dakhla in West Sahara and than via old Road paris-Dakar to marakesh. Amazing. Especially West Sahara part. Naturę is amazing. No tourists.great people.