I'd normally have posted a substantial TR with fotos of our fall 2022 Montreal/Mt. Tremblant voyage by now, but family matters have taken priority. It was our first time back in 42 years--I used to work there. Just some scattered thoughts here, ones which hopefully may assist travelers in La Belle Province:
Interested in spas? Check out the Scandinavian one on Nun's isle, a great way to spend a relaxed day. Or, if you enjoy shiatsu massage, check out the wonderful 'ashiatsu' service by Suzanna Chan on Park (aka Parc) Avenue in Mile End. Ashiatsu involves the practitioner using their own foot pressure while suspended above and balanced using wooden poles. We've had hundreds of massages across the globe and both agreed: this was the best ever. sue@suzannechan.com
S'il vous plait tell her that 'les deux maudit anglais de Toronto Ellen and Gregg, sent you.
My wife is from Montreal. She insisted that we visit the rural Mt Tremblant area in the Laurentians. *Understand, by 'Mt. Tremblant' I DO NOT mean the main touristy 'village', a Disneyfied, pseudo-European ski village.
Instead I mean the excellent countryside nearby. We chose to base at a rental which was part of a most unique 'resort' in La Conception. That resort was called Bel Air and features a variety of uncheap lodgings ranging from domes, to pods to lovely futuristic houses, one of which we rented next to their Clubhouse. We did so to leaf peep out in the middle of nature, plus ride ebikes by the lovely local lakes towards that aforementioned tourist village (see 'P'Tit Train du Nord'). Bel Air has a well-regarded sushi restaurant onsite.
Also, we had underestimated just how wonderful the actual National park called 'Mt. Tremblant' was. It was our first time there and we were impressed.
In Montreal, one could:
-shop for tea at 'Un Amour des Thes', Richard Wallace's sympa maison de the on rue Bertrand in Outremont.
-enjoy peerless croissants at Figaro cafe.
-have breakfast at Beautys, a genuine diner as seen in an old Bourdain episode.
-dine in a special atmosphere at Cardinal Tea Room.
-flaneuse and shop along 'The Main', the arty strip of Boulevard St. Laurent in the Plateau area e.g. ethnic women's clothing at Palma, Guillaume Bakery, high-quality street art, Italian cafe Novanta. (funky Duluth Ave and quiet Sq. St. Louis are both just off St. Laurent too).
-visit both markets: Atwater ('Le Paradis du Fromage', 'Terrines & Pates' and 'Premiere Moison' bakery) and also Jean Talon ('Creperie du Marche', 'Delices de Mer' fried cod, 'Binette & Filles' flowers, 'Epices de Cru' spices) see also Joe la Croute just outside the market for excellent bread.
-eat at the 8th floor terrace restaurant at the William Gray hotel, an outside experience with superb views out across the Vieux Port district---best wine of the entire trip.
-bien sur you must walk through immense Parc du Mont Royal. There will be crowds. And limited parking.
-a rarity that most tourists miss: the ultra-modern new campus buildings of the University of Montreal @the old Outremont Yards neighbourhood.
In Montreal's Mile End, we rented an apartment from 'Parc Lofts' next to the Rialto theatre and near Tamey Lau's iconic Flower Shop (her motif is the hanging Victorian-top birdcage collection that she also sells, mais oui quite the sight).
Les Ptits Enfants de Felice Italian cafe and Cheskies Hassidic Bakery are also right across the road. That apartment had an outdoor hot tub and great views 'to the mountain'. We would recommend it. Those with mobility issues might find the stairs challenging, but it was very good value.
Recommended viewing: The Kings of Coke; The Apprenticeship of Duddy Kravitz. Suggested Listening: Leonard Cohen, Gino Vanelli, April Wine, Celine Dion and Arcade Fire. The latter's original rehearsal hall was close to our loft.
I am done. the end