Mexico solo trip approximately may 2023

Unless you have dietary restrictions, it would be a shame to miss restaurant food in Mexico City. It is cheap by US standards and there are plenty of casual eateries that would cater well to a solo traveler. 4 years ago, I spend a week exploring Mexico City on my own while my partner was working during the day, and that's what I did.

Can't comment on the produce-washing issue; I am personally not prone to stomach upsets and ate street food, prepared fruit, etc. without any issues, and brushed my teeth with tap water.

As for trip length, who cares what your father says if you have the money and the time off!

Edited and continued:

For getting around, Uber works great and is reportedly safer than cabs. Uber all the way to Teotihuacan only cost something like $25 from Zócalo, and trips in the city usually cost around $5.
The subway is also convenient.

Besides the places you list (haven't visited all of them), I really enjoyed the Casa Museo Diego Rivera and the Anahuacalli museum. Strolling in the Roma and Condesa districts was also very pleasant. And the Palacio de Bellas Artes is a definite "yes", not a "maybe".

Safety did not feel problematic in the daytime, but walking around in the nighttime in quiet areas did not feel like the best idea.

Much of Mexico is simply not safe to visit, but my Son and friends visited Mexico City a couple of years ago and they said the tourist areas are safe. Just be sure not to wander into the non-tourist areas.

I go to Mexico City maybe once a year. The airport is miserable, after that, it a great trip.

I eat in restaurants, but not the casual ones, because 4 and 5 star restaurants in Mexico City are world class and cost no more than casual here.

Eating produce always comes with rusk, but so far I have had no issues.

What can make Mexico city more enjoyable is to hire a guide. The one I have used is more of a local representative than a tourist guide. She knows all the interesting spots and can get you around safely and comfortably.

Stay in the right location and more than half you can walk to.

There's a brand of disinfectant soak sold in most supermarkets that you can use to treat fresh fruits and vegetables if you're self-catering. We did it for a while on our first trip to San Miguel de Allende several years ago until we realized that it was just as cheap (and a lot easier) to dine out for lunch or dinner in any good restaurant where they'll already have done that for their menu items. We've traveled throughout central Mexico several times at length and never had any dietary issues , but have always stuck to bottled water (even for brushing our teeth) and established cafes and restaurants. I wouldn't try to get too adventurous on that score.
Your itinerary looks fine, though I'd add some time in Chapultepec Park one day just to enjoy the ambience of Mexican families out and about enjoying their day. It's a beautiful park - really quite nice - and there's some American history there to explore as well. Might be worth hiring a local guide to provide some insight into the events that took place there. It would fit in nicely after your Sunday exploration of the Antropologia, though I'd expect to spend more time there than you're probably thinking - it's fabulous - truly one of the finest museums of its kind in the world. We stopped in for what we thought was going to be a quick visit and wound up lingering for hours because we couldn't tear ourselves away.
We never felt any concerns about safety in Mexico City.
Time and interest permitting I'd add time in the beautiful town of San Miguel de Allende, with side trips to some of the other old Colonial silver towns in the area - they're all gorgeous ... and quite safe for visitors.
Finally, you might schedule a day trip to the Monarch Butterfly Sanctuary in the nearby state of Michoacan - it too is beautiful, and if you're there on a sunny day when the Monarchs take wing it can be the experience of a lifetime.

I think your timing sounds great. On a trip in 2019 we spent 6 nights in Mexico City and 2 nights in Puebla, which we also loved. We did most of the things on your list in Mexico City. We could have spent more time in both. I agree with Balso that it's a good idea to have time to walk around the neighborhoods; Condesa, Roma, and also Coyoacan (which you can do in combination with Frida Kahlo museum). Also be sure to spend plenty of time in the park when you visit the anthropology museum. That museum is vast--we went twice and only saw about 70% of it. Be sure to reserve Frida Kahlo tickets in advance--we didn't and were unable to get in due to the huge crowds.

My husband and I, in our late 60s at the time, felt safe in both Mexico City and Puebla. We took the public bus to Teotihuacan, but you can also go with groups that meet at some of the hotels if you will feel more comfortable that way. We also used the subway several times. Like James E, we found the airport to be the worst part of the trip, but everything else was great. We stayed in an airbnb in the Condesa neighborhood that provided large water cooler-sized bottles of purified water for drinking and cooking. We drank bottled water when out.

Edited to add: I completely agree with Balso that: Palacio de Bellas Artes is a definite "yes", not a "maybe".

I go to Mexico every year and only eat at reputable restaurants. I never eat raw produce or fruit unless prepared by a restaurant. One place we stayed had the fruit and vegetable wash for us to use. We use bottled water to drink and brush out teeth. In thirty years of yearly trips, I got sick twice. The first time was on my first trip and the last one was a couple of years ago. I agree with others, eat in restaurants on this trip. I’d also fly to destinations if possible and limit bus travel unless there are no flights.
A guide might be of benefit or a day tour to some sites outside of Mexico City.
I also think you should stay as long as you like. It’s none of your dad’s business where you go and how long you stay.
Have a great trip!

A couple of other thoughts: Flying into Mexico City can indeed be an ordeal - getting thru the arrival process and out of the airport can be a royal pain. We did it once, much to our regret, and thereafter made it a point to fly into one of the smaller airports (in our case Guanajuato near SMA). I see that Oaxaca also has an international airport - might be better to fly into either Guanajuato or Oaxaca and then make your way to Mexico City from there for your departure. Will save you a lot of aggravation if you do it that way. Flying out of MEX isn't the problem - arriving there is the problem.
The long distance buses in Mexico are excellent and are an economical way to get from point to point while seeing a little more of the country. Think business class seats on an airline - really quite nice.

Do keep in mind that the most "reputable" restraints wash their salad produce with tap water. Oh, and if you are worried about this; no ice. Do bring something to plug the works if necessary and do eat the cooked [at least] street food. All tasty.

And even if you "feel" safe, do remember you are in one of the most dangerous countries in the world. Just be smart and a guide or student guide is prudent at times.

Mike,

Lots of good advice above already. I want to add one more bit...

I've read many of your posts so I know you have some "family dynamics" issues you may be dealing with. A first-time trip to Mexico for someone with limited international travel experience is a big step, so kudos to you for being up for the adventure. Even more kudos to you for choosing Mexico City as a destination (a big, complicated, and yes sometimes "challenging" city), rather than the mega-resorts that most Americans visit. There's nothing wrong with a beautiful beach or a luxurious resort, and I love plenty of the places in Mexico that have become super-popular. But the typical Mexican "beach resort" familiar to so many visitors often really isolates you from the warm people, the rich culture and history, and the rest of this fascinating country. So good for you.

You can expect to hear a lot of very scary stories about how dangerous Mexico is, how you are risking your life by going there, you must be crazy or stupid to go, etc. etc. You'll hear this (a lot) from sincere family members, friends, strangers, and others who may be well-meaning, but who have little or no actual experience getting around the country (I've been all over Mexico and I still hear that from friends and strangers alike). It's true that bad things happen in Mexico sometimes. Our media/social media and consciousness are filled with those stories. But bad things happen in Detroit, Seattle, Paris, and Orlando, too. But nobody is going to tell you you're risking your life by going to Disney World.

You have some common sense, you have some travel smarts, you have some experience out in the world. As long as you utilize those, and you don't go looking for trouble (especially if out late), you will be just fine, and perfectly safe, traveling in Mexico, despite all the warnings you will hear. It's a big, beautiful, sometimes chaotic but always fascinating, surprisingly diverse country filled with a lot more than most foreigners expect.

I think you will be delighted by what you find in Mexico City and any other places you might add. Yes, be careful, use your head, but don't let the dire warnings freak you out or dissuade you from going. It's going to be amazing.
Vaya con dios!

Thanks for your input.

The maximum number of days I would ask off of work is ten; ten days off work is enough time for a 13-night trip, factoring in the weekends and the fact that my work is closed on weekends. Although I could acquiesce to a shorter trip. If my trip includes Memorial day, that would be one less day I would need to ask for off.

I am trying to get the right balance of not excessively hot or humid versus late enough sun-set time.

Maybe I should try street food once or twice. Too much restaurant food can be unhealthy. The vast majority of restaurant food is made with oil or added fat, salt, and/or sugar and I am more addicted to the action of putting food in my mouth and chewing instead of caring about the taste. Except that I can't stand hot-spiciness (chile peppers, radish, peppercorn, garlic, onion). Its not like I am medically allergic to anything. If I eat something spicy I just discretely spit it out into a napkin and privately battle the irritation in my mouth and skip eating the rest of it. I didn't eat restaurant food once in 8 days in Florida and 13 days in Spain.

I am an American-English speaker. I taught myself some Spanish phrases before my trip to Spain. I had a phonology class in college. Maybe I am better than most people at pronouncing foreign words. Maybe sometimes I sound like a native speaker when I pronounce words like a native speaker, while of course simultaneously not knowing the language. My plan is to keep my mouth shut most of the time, occasionally saying some Spanish words and phrases.

I traveled solo to Quebec, England, Greece, Italy, Spain, and Northern Belgium and the Netherlands. I want to believe going to Mexico City and possibly outside Mexico City, solo, will work ok. I was wondering whether Mexico a harder or more dangerous country to travel in solo? I guess it is unlikely that anybody will bother me inside my hotel or inside the museums. Hopefully the outdoor ruins won't be noticeably more dangerous than in Italy or Greece.

Am I putting myself in danger if I take a longish distance bus outside of Mexico City, like to Pueblo if I add it, or Teotihuacan?

Is Oaxaca de Juarez too far out of the way and should i just limit my trip to places in the Mexico city area? My excuse to go to Oaxaca de Juarez is to take a day trip from there to Monte Alban.

You have selected an excellent destination for your next international trip! I love Mexico, especially the pre Columbian art and culture. I have traveled to Mexico City twice, in 2015 and 2020, with a combination of solo and group travel. I have also visited Oaxaca and the Yucatan. I am a middle aged woman, and I have found Mexico to be safe and welcoming. Mexican people are friendly and very polite, and I think they will appreciate any Spanish that you can speak.

While I loved Oaxaca and Ciudad de Juarez, I think that the extra flights might be a hassle and take too much time from your vacation. You can save Oaxaca for a separate trip so that you can explore Monte Alban and Mitla in more detail. Anyhow, a lot of the Monte Alban artifacts are now at the Museum of Anthropology. I reiterate other comments about that museum: it is world class and merits a significant portion of your time. I like that you are devoting a full day to it. I went there twice during my first visit to Mexico City, once on my own and another time with friends, and each time I was floored by the magnificence of the collection.

Personally I was unimpressed with Museo Soumaya. The building is lovely, the price is right (admission is free--Señor Slim is fabulously wealthy, so that makes sense), but the collections are mediocre. The location is also a bit out of the way. I took an Uber there and back because there was not much else to see around there.

You could plan an entire trip to Mexico City around the murals--there are so many beautiful and moving pieces that capture the passion and history of the country. Near Templo Mayor (whose fine museum is a "must"), for example, San Ildefonso has some wonderful political murals. Rivera's murals in the National Palace are amazing. When I visited in 2015, you needed to give your passport to be held until you finished touring the building; I think that practice is continuing as the location is an active government building.

If you want to see a place outside Mexico City, I agree with another commenter that Puebla is a good choice. I spent a couple nights there, and I really enjoyed the town. It would be a very long day trip from Mexico City, so I think you could spend one night there to see enough to interest you. (Cuisine is a major source of appeal of Puebla, but it sounds like you do not care for restaurant food, so you can save time by skipping the delicious poblano specialties like mole.) The bus between Mexico City and Puebla is safe and convenient. Puebla's historic center is charming and a manageable size. It gives you a nice sense of what a colonial city was/is like. Museo Amparo was great.

You might know this already from your research: private first class buses in Mexico are an economical and efficient means of mid- or long-distance travel, and I would prefer them to flights as long as the bus trip is, say, less than 4 hours. Buses/motor coaches have comfortable seats and are fast. Just remember to bring: 1) earplugs/headphones because they screen movies at a very high volume, and 2) something warm to wear because the A/C is set to Arctic Chill levels!

Here are YouTube links from two travelers, who call themselves "Country Collectors". Adam and Heidi take a walking tour into several Mexico City neighborhoods - starting with Centro Historico.
Mike - you may recognize Heidi's accent - she is from Michigan,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pO5CLI7Sm-k&t=331s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TIBWTVB6Ryo&t=750s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NsYgjog7d74&t=284s

When I wrote Oaxaca de Juárez, I meant Oaxaca City near Monte Albán, not Ciudad de Juárez by the United States border.

Thanks for the clarification. I meant Oaxaca City as well--definitely not Ciudad de Juarez, which is too dangerous to be a tourist spot!

Lots of good advice above, Mike, especially from David. I've been to Mexico City on my own and had a great time. I wouldn't hesitate to travel solo in the areas you and other posters have mentioned. I think your itinerary makes sense, although you might find it easier to fly into Oaxaca first, an easier airport. By the same token, Oaxaca might be an easier "introduction to Mexico" city because it's smaller and more compact. I believe there are direct flights there from Houston and Dallas.

Re your specific questions: Outside of restaurants, avoid fruits and vegetables that you don't peel yourself. So intact oranges and bananas would be OK, apples and grapes not. Avoid iced drinks, unless in restaurants or cafes that specify it's made with "agua purificada." Bottled water, soft drinks, beer and wine and stronger stuff would be fine. Bring some Pepto Bismol tablets, and immodium if you can get it, just in case.

I saw Teotihuacan on a van tour that unfortunately included several "shopping opportunities" that ate into the available time, but something like that may still be the best choice. I don't know what the public buses would be like to get there. The metro is safe in Mexico City, especially on the routes the serve the areas you're considering. Pickpockets are an issue, as you know from your other travels. As for Monte Alban, there's a very good bus from the Hotel Riviera del Angel, near the city center, running regularly. You could also take a taxi for a higher fare. But Mexico is very inexpensive, and taxis are a good way to get places. Get a taxi from an established stand (sitio), there are many of them, or ask your hotel to call one.

I hope you have a great trip. It goes without saying that you should take as much time as your job allows.

Alternative supposed approximate day-by day itinerary:

4 nights in Oaxaca City
Saturday: Flights to Oaxaca City
Sunday: Museo de las Culturas Oaxaca; if open, Museo Rufino Tamayo; if time, Museo Casa de Juárez, Centro Fotográfico Alvarez Bravo; Museo Belber Jiménez; Museo del Palacio; if time briefly possibly the churches Santo Domingo de Guzmán, Templo de San Felipe Neri, and/or others.
Monday: Day trip to Monte Albán
Tuesday: Whatever of Sunday's sights not seen yet, walk past various monuments, and so on. OR: day trip to Mitla (ruins 24 miles southeast of Oxaca city)
Wednesday: Plane to Mexico city

Nine nights in Mexico City
Thursday: Museo Nacional de antropología. Possibly walk Avenida Paseo de la Reforma north-east, passing El Ángel de la Independencia, and/or possibly one of the markets.
Friday: Museo Soumaya (Carlos Slim's art museum); or possibly a guided tour if available; if time Palacio Bellas Artes.
Saturday: Museo Firda Khalo. Possibly Mercado de Coyoacán or Antojitos Mexicanos Market Juanita. Back to Centro Historico. If time, if not seen yet, Palacio de Bellas Artes, Alameda Central park, various monuments.
Sunday: Zócalo, Templo Mayor, museo del Templo Mayor, Palacio Nacional (Diego Rivera murals), various monuments
Monday: Day trip to Teotihuacán
Tuesday: Tlatelolco (Zona arqueológica, Plaza), if time, if not seen yet: above musems, museo Franz Mayer, Monumento a la Revolución
Wednesday: Day trip to Tula.
Thursday: Museo Nacional De Arte, possibly Museo Nacional De San Carlos
Friday: Another museum, day trip, Museo Nacional de Antropología again, and/or more self-guided touring.
Saturday: Flights back to Detroit

How much of a shame would it be to skip Puebla and Cholula?

I am thinking of buying "Mexico City: An Opinionated Guide for the Curious Traveler", by Jim Johnston.

https://www.amazon.com/Mexico-CIty-Opinionated-Curious-Traveler/dp/1511448334/ref=sr_1_6?crid=7P2ZZC3HNKLX&keywords=mexico+city+walking+tour&qid=1662487592&sprefix=mexico+city+walking%2Caps%2C149&sr=8-6

I already have the Rough Guide to Mexico.

It looks like there is a choice of electronic format or paperback. The electronic version is cheaper. Should I assume the paperback version is my safest choice? Because I have a Samsung tablet but in terms of assault or robbery or worse, would it be safe to look at my Samsung device in public in Mexico city?

Sorry I haven't weighed in until now, but I actually haven't been to that many places in Mexico yet. I have spent a few days in Mexico City, and Oaxaca is at the top of my Mexico bucket list. So I can't really give you a lot of advice about the itinerary you are working on.

The one thing I'll say about Mexico City is this: it is so fascinating and beautiful that I had a hard time convincing myself to enter many museums. I just wanted to wander the streets and take it all in. So be sure to allow yourself plenty of time to do that. I definitely want to get back there when I'm a little less overwhelmed by it all so I can explore some of the indoor attractions.

You are going to have a great trip!

I would have suggested Mexico City and Puebla, or Oaxaca and Puebla, but it sounds like Monte Alban is a priority. It's not a bad priority. The bus to get there isn't too difficult to figure out, although a minimum of Spanish will help. It's a fantastic site even for us gringos. If you're interested in seeing one of the villages outside the City, check on En Via tours. They are a non-profit that helps indigenous women fund their businesses and provide business advice/planning so they can create self-sustaining self-employment. They also have a Spanish to find this so I assume they survived covid, but haven't checked. And if you like trees, consider a trip to El Tule just outside the city. Google this. I'm not especially in to vegetation but it was an interesting add-on to my visit outside the City.

Mexico City is fabulous and looks like you've mostly allowed enough time to see things and have a cushion to allow for time to get around. You may be able to see a lot more than you're planning. I think someone mentioned San Ildefonso near el Centro, but if you like murals, this is a great place to see them. You could also get a driver/guide to take you to UNAM (the university) to see some other art sites, but this would for sure require a driver and guide. (I went with a local who went to UNAM). If you want to mix up the museums with some architecture, check out the Casa de Luis Barragan. He was a local architect and the house, that you get a guided tour to see, is really interesting. It's typical of colonial architecture that it looks like nothing from the street but as soon as you go inside..... You could also combine Coyoacan and the Frida Kahlo home with the nearby (by bus) neighborhood of San Angel where she and Diego lived. The Museo Estudio de Diego Rivera is open as a museum. And if you like the muralists, San Angel is also home to Museo Carrillo Gil, which has smaller paintings by Orozco and Siqiueros. I found it really interesting. The Metrobus goes down to San Angel and then there are buses over to Coyoacon (or vice versa). And if you have lots of extra time, you could check a day tour of Xochimilco. This is where boats are rented to go out on formerly Aztec canals. You sit on the boat and hang out while other boats come by to sell tacos, beers, musicians. It's great for a half-day, but I wouldn't do this on your own unless you're feeling super adventurous. There is a square near El Centro where mariachis play at night. I was told to not go there alone even during the day. Not sure how it is now but if someone suggests it, maybe skip unless you go with a day tour.

Functional Spanish will help on all the buses but if you know some, I found people to be quite helpful. For reference, I'm a single woman with bad conversational spanish and have been to Mexico City and other parts of Mexico by myself. Given the places you're going, you'll probably be fine. If you plan on being near "home" at dark or taking cabs, then no problem. You can always ask restaurants or your hotel to call a cab for you rather than hailing one on the street. Street tacos are a must to try- but watch the salsa. Not that it's too spicy but it may have included some water or fresh veges that you don't want. Cooked food is ok. You can always eat salads when you go home. Sounds like a great trip!

I have the Jim Johnston book - my copy dates from 2006. I have found it helpful and newer editions may be more valuable. There are some recommendations worthy of consideration including several walking tours in the city - not unlike those in RS guidebooks.

Looks like you're adding some time in Oaxaca, including Mitla -- a good idea. A trip to Mitla will take you past El Tule, not far from Oaxaca along the same road, and the driver will undoubtedly point it out.

I've had guidebooks on my Kindle but much prefer a real book, because it's easier to flip through pages to find a particular entry. I can bookmark pages with paper clips, underline or highlight particular items, etc. I know you can do these things with a tablet or e-reader but I've found a physical book easier to use on the go. If a whole guidebook is too heavy or bulky, you can cut out pages (as RS recommends with his books) or, better still, photocopy them from books checked out of a library. For instance, Oaxaca will be a small part of any Mexico guidebook, and there might be a smaller guidebook for Mexico City.

Spanish undoubtedly helps, but people are friendly and English is widely spoken, at least the basics, among people who interact with foreign travelers. Your past travels in Spain should help you with this.

Well as long as we are offering book suggestions, I have one too:

The People's Guide to Mexico, by Carl Franz.

The best travel guidebook I've ever had the pleasure of reading and re-reading (no shade or disrespect intended to the good folks working on Rick's books).

This is a different kind of book, not a traditional guidebook listing places to stay, sights to see, restaurants to eat at, itineraries to follow. It's more about how to approach this very colorful, complicated, sometimes chaotic place called Mexico, and the people you will meet there. It's dated -- the book is from the 1970s -- but most of the information is still worthwhile and useful to a first-time visitor. Highly entertaining, too. Don't get this book thinking it'll help you plan your itinerary (it won't). But it will help you function in Mexico as a visitor every day.

I applied its wisdom in countless situations throughout adventures in Mexico and it served me well: when I was refused at the ticket window and told the ferry was sold out for weeks (it wasn't) and that I'd have to drive 1500 miles out of my way to get where I wanted to go (I didn't); when I was stopped on the road and searched by what looked to me like 14 year olds with machine guns (it was an army checkpoint) who demanded I give them money or valuable things I had in my car (I didn't, and I left with them laughing, smiling and calling me a friend); how to deal with cops (good ones and bad ones); how to bargain in markets; what to do and more importantly, what not to do and how to do it when you have to. A great book for anyone with a love of travel and a sense of adventure, and an inclination to head south of the border.

Trivial Sidenote: This wonderful book shares a little DNA with Rick Steves and his excellent series of guidebooks (from the distant past).

In case anyone is reading this for tips on a trip to MX sooner than Mike L, I just read a story this morning about masking in DF. It’s apparently still the norm to wear them inside everywhere, and even outside when you’re near people. Hopefully they won’t be needed by the time you go, Mike, but it’s a different attitude about them now. Maybe set a couple aside for the trip, just in case.

Thanks for your input.

Does anybody know whether it would be safe to look at an electronic guidebook for guided tours, in public in Mexico City? Should I limit myself to paper maps or should I try google maps on my phone like I did in Spain? Do you find it better to look at paper maps, google maps o your phone, hand-drawn map showing only the few streets you plan to go on, in advance, or list of handwritten directions?

Which of these sounds true?:

Locals don't look at paper maps. Sometimes locals look at their phones. Looking at a paper map = high chance of getting assaulted or worse.

Looking at a phone or tablet = danger of getting assaulted or robed or worse. Looking at a paper map should be is fine.

Am I giving myself too much time in Mexico city?

Monte Albán looks more significant than Cholula. Cholula has a pyramid that is supposed to be the biggest pyramid in existence, in volume, but not it just looks like a big grass-covered hill, with a church on top. It doesn't look spectacular enough to justify seeing. Or am I wrong?

I like the laminated Streetwise maps, sold on this site for European cities and available at bookstores or on Amazon for others. They have one for Mexico City. For Oaxaca I'd suggest a tourist map available from hotels. I don't have much experience with Google Maps but what I have is positive.

As for maps and safety, I'm not sure how to respond. You're going to look like a gringo tourist no matter what kind of map you use, or whether you use a map at all. Cell phones are widespread in Mexico, just looking at one won't make you "vulnerable." Normal pickpocket precautions include keeping major money and cards in a money belt or neck wallet, and keeping a phone deep in a secure pocket when not in active use. Markets and transit are the high-risk places. The tips this website provides re pickpocketing and personal safety work in Mexico as they do in Europe.

I'm not familiar with Cholula but Monte Alban is definitely worth seeing if you go to Oaxaca. It includes an observatory where the ancient Zapotecs kept track of the stars and planets. Mitla is also great. If you like evocative old ruins (I do), you might try Yagul and/or Dainzu, on the way to Mitla, or Cuilapan to the south of Oaxaca (not ancient but colonial period).

Cholula is interesting and can be combined with seeing some of the more interesting churches or other sites in the area, but Monte Alban is the more spectacular site for sure.

In your judgment, would it be possible, reasonable, and/or safe to see Mitla and Hierve el Agua the same day?

It looks like from Mitla to Hierve el Agua is under 11 miles but a 48 minute drive. From the middle of Oaxaca city to Hierve el Agua is under 38 miles and a 1 hour and 31 minute drive.

If you were me (solo man traveler, doesn't drink alcohol so a side trip to a mescal distillery wouldn't be of interest, likes the idea of doing things on my own but keeps imagining my horrified mother yelling at me about how dangerous my plans are), would you sign up for an organized day trip, rent a car, or try taking the bus and/or colectivo or taxis?

My budget is low but not disgustingly low. I would consider renting a car if it would be my safest option depending on cost. I don't like to spend more than necessary.

If I travel from Oaxaca city to Mitla first, on the bus, intending to go from there to Hierve el Agua, will I have to put up with arriving in Mitla without knowing whether I will be able to get a ride to and/or from Hierve el Agua?

Don't rent a car; it is safer to organize a tour with a local.

I've taken several Oaxaca-based day tours with Nicholas Garcia, a local guide who knows a great deal and speaks very good English. I can't find a website for him but you could try email at nichoaxgarcia@yahoo.com.mx. I would not rent a car in Mexico, traffic can be chaotic and parking difficult in cities.

I haven't been to Hierve el Agua, I thought it was farther down the road from Mitla than Mike describes. If it takes 48 minutes to go 11 miles you know the road is rough, another reason not to do it yourself.

I used to take the collectivos from the Abastos Market in Oaxaca to various outlying villages. They were a fun, very inexpensive way to get places. I still use them to come in from the airport but don't know what they're like otherwise these days. Maybe I'll find out more when I'm down there again in February.