We spent 12 days on Malta and Gozo in September-October 2023. Fascinating place. For a history buff, it's like you've died and gone to heaven. But it also gets plenty of low-end "package" tourism, with lots of UK folks flocking for some fun-in-the-sun, sittting in expat pubs watching football. And LOTS of huge cruise ships. Despite that, I loved the place and found it amazing. I came to think of it as "British Sicily" or "Beyond Italy", a bit chaotic and crazy (showing the influence of neighboring North Africa) but rewarding if you are willing to look past some of the evident rot and insanity.
I think Malta is very easy to do on your own. The only "tour"-like activities we did were 1) the hypogeum (yes, book tickets many months in advance, since they only let in a small number of people each day), and 2) to see Comino (the little, third island, and a textbook example of how over-tourism can absolutely destroy a beautiful place) - I knew Comino would be a complete cluster (and it was). To beat the crowds, we hired a private motorboat to pick us up on Gozo early morning (like 7 am) and go wherever we wanted, so we got there and had some time to enjoy the place before the circus arrived. Without the people, the place was lovely for a few hours.
We rented a car. A car is worse than useless in the city, but to get out and get around to the far corners of the islands and be efficient with your time, I think a car is advisable. Yes, the bus system is OK, but you will burn many hours going that way, with a car, you will see so much more (you will make better use of your time). But yes, driving in Malta is not for the faint of heart, it's pretty much the wild west at times.
For accoms, we found the pickings were slim. In Valletta proper, we found just a handful of places that looked good, which were expensive. Many (most?) tourists stay in St Julian's (which to me had all the charm of a a bus station in Las Vegas), Sliema is also popular (and similarly repulsive to us). We found a pretty cool BnB in the "Three Cities" which we loved (note: There aren't "three" of them, more like 4 or 5 depending on how you count; each seems to have at least two completely different names which are used interchangeably, so it invites confusion; and they're not actually separate cities, just old neighborhoods with highly vertical real estate) - don't expect it to make any sense. We liked staying there.
Gozo is beautiful, try to spend some time there too (we split our stay, about 8-9 days on Malta proper, about 3-4 days on Gozo).
It's not everyone's cup of tea, but I thought it was quite cool and interesting. Glad we went. The Bradt Guide is awesome.
A few photos here if you are curious. Hope that helps.