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Madagascar -- need some assistance

I'm headed to Madagascar (unexpected trip) for about 5days.
I'm doing research now but could use some help from a person that's been there.

1) Can I just rent a car on my own and drive around? Not sure of the road conditions
2) I've looked into a "Bus" across the country but the website shows only 1 bus (day) available for the 2 months I checked
-- does anyone have transportation suggestions

I'll stop there - I have many questions but I think this is enough to get started.

I'm a very experienced traveler and this place has been on my list for YEARS and I finally have a chance to visit - even for just a few days.

Change of plans --- I see no reason I'd rent a car. Upon more research I don't think it will be worth my "trouble" in getting / using a personal car.
So My question changes to:
* anyone have Day Tour - tour operators they recommend (from Antananarivo).

Posted by
8134 posts

Looking at Thomas Cook old timetables there is one passenger rail service which connects Fianarantsoa to Manakara, operated by Reseau National des Chemins de Fer Malagasy.
Bus services seem to be operated by several companies- Cotisse Transport (the successor to Madabus)-https://www.madacamp.com/Cotisse_Transport
Kofmad- I can only find a facebook page for them- https://www.facebook.com/people/Kofmad-Transport-Based-ETS2/100054499087923/
Kofito- who also only seem to have a facebook page- https://www.facebook.com/people/KOFITO/100063626885653/
Sonatra- only have a facebook page- https://www.facebook.com/people/Sonatra-Sprinter-Tana_Sambava/100064034232328/

Posted by
6811 posts

Caveat: I have not been there yet, but am in the early stages of researching for a trip to Madagascar in Oct/Nov 2024. Based on my research (admittedly preliminary, but perhaps ahead of yours), here's how I would respond to your specific questions:

Can I just rent a car on my own and drive around? Not sure of the road conditions

Wave enough money, and I'm sure you can always find someone who will rent you a car, almost anywhere in the world. I think your question is more about whether or not that's a wise choice. Everything I've read screams that the answer is a firm NO.

Roads are VERY poor, sometimes impassible. Most sources suggest driving on your own is only for the most adventurous (an understatement) for a variety of reasons, including: road conditions ("abysmal" is a term I've seen used a lot), security (risk of robbery), and time (you'll be going v-e-r-y slow in many areas). If you really want (need) to get somewhere by road, you can and probably should hire a driver from a local agency.

I've looked into a "Bus" across the country but the website shows
only 1 bus (day) available for the 2 months I checked
-- does anyone have transportation suggestions

I would be extremely wary of long-distance bus travel in Madagascar, especially with limited time. Bus service is limited, slow, not terribly reliable, and not without its own security risks. It's also not designed for tourists, but does its best to try to meet the needs of locals. Unfortunately, the options for public transportation in the country are quite limited and generally do not work well for tourists. There are a couple of train lines, but like the roads, though still nominally in use, they are legacies of the French colonial times, and have been all but abandoned since the French left in 1960 (no maintenance and in terrible shape).

For context: Madagascar is one of the poorest countries in the world. While it has incredible wildlife, scenery, and great national parks, all the logistics - and lack of functioning infrastructure - make it a difficult place for a casual tourist to drop in for a few days. Tourism is definitely a part of their economy, but most visitors tend to be big-spenders who stay for long visits (typically for weeks, because that's what it takes to get around). There are some touristy places that are easily accessible from the outside world (international flights in and then back out) but getting around within the country can be daunting, and flights are stunningly expensive. Many people fly from point to point (because the infrastructure is so bad). Most are on organized tours (usually quite expensive).

In short, if you have deep pockets and want to spend weeks there, it can be an awesome destination. For a short trip, you are going to be very limited in where you can get to. Expect many tourist services (well-organized tours, for example) to be on the expensive side. If you are traveling independently, it can be very cheap...but it can also be very, very rough, and as dysfunctional as developing places can be.

5 Days seems like a tragically short amount of time to me. I'm looking at 2-3 weeks and with that I'm finding it difficult to string together a basic itinerary with more than 2-3 locations. It's got plenty of challenges - this is a very poor, developing country with bad infrastructure and widespread, deep poverty, even by the standards of many other African nations.

Best guide book is Bradt's "Madagascar". Go get it today and start reading. Hopefully your trip there is not coming up soon and you have plenty of time to try and optimize the days you will have (first thing I'd suggest is: find some way to be there for longer than 5 days, and plan on spending more than you would like). It sure looks like a wonderful place to go, but is not exactly Easy Travel.

Hope some of that helps. Good luck.

Posted by
4657 posts

I would also suggest the Bradt guide for places like this. I am an older solo woman traveler and despite mostly traveling beyond Europe, I would want tours for Madagascar. I haven't been, but several other travel enthusiasts have, so my comments are based on their recommendations. The road infrastructure is bad, and the locals can be suspicious. Some report better experiences than others, but I would want a reputable day tour company with recent reviews. Bradt website also provides info and user updates, so check out the site at least. And then there is TripAdvisor forum for local and more experienced feedback.

Posted by
128 posts

Thank you for the additional information.

Believe me when I say I'm SAD that I only have 5ish day's to spend there. I truly wanted more time. but when this opportunity presented itself I jumped at it.

I will be traveling there this July (yeah - in one months time) I'm rushing my research and narrowing down to simple day trips from Antanarivo -OH I wish I had more time to see more things.

I'm looking into the book mentioned and thank you all again for the help.
I have decided on NOT renting a car -- as said by others: it's just not worth the time/effort/hassel. So I'm focusing my attention on reputable tour company's that can take me somewhere for the day.

Posted by
1609 posts

I had done some research on Madagascar for a planned trip in 2020 which I had to cancel due to the pandemic. With only 5 days, my assumption is that you will need/want to spend the first and last night in the capital TANA - assuming you aren't flying into one of the smaller airports along the coast where the beaches are (e.g. Nosy Be). With the remaining 3 days, you should look into the area around Andasibe which is a some hours from Tana and where you can see some of the lemurs and other wildlife.

As has been pointed out earlier, the roads are supposed to be terrible and likely impassable during the rainy season. There is an episode on the "Worlds most dangerous roads" that could be informative (either on Netflix or Prime).

Would love to hear from you after you return.

Posted by
128 posts

I have a total of 6days boots-on-the-ground.
I know this would be considered a unconventional trip for most --- but like I said, this is such a great opportunity and I'm not going to pass it up.

Regarding the driving --- I've decided to NOT do that.
for fun I'll look up the video you recommend regarding the road conditions.

Anyone have any reputable tour companies their? I'd like to book some day tours and I'm just not sure who is the reputable ones on the web.

Posted by
3575 posts

IMA, I too have not been to Madagascar, but have been to Africa three times. I also would suggest a tour company. Perhaps Nat Geo as they have a good reputation and have been around a long time. I have not used them, but hear good things. However, it might be a challenge to find something to fit in your time frame.