Machu Picchu —big changes (maybe don’t bother going)

Oh what a bummer Tom. I didn't hike any of the trail so I can't comment on that, but I would still take advantage of the lookout view even though they're charging for it. And the rest of MP is still pretty amazing regardless of views so I hope you still have a wonderful awe inspiring trip despite the changes.

That is a total bummer. MP is very high on our want to go list. Since I have read a lot about it, I already knew it was not the same as it used to be. Having to go in a circuit etc. However, we still want to go.

I would still take advantage of the lookout view even though they're charging for it

It's not like a tower of a cathedral where once inside there's a separate line and pay station for the tower access. In this case adding the lookout means entirely leaving the site, then re-entering on another timed ticket. So I would need to guess how long we will be visiting the ruins (2 hours, 4 hours?), then buy a timed ticket months in advance for a later re-entry the same day. Basically previously people had to leave the site and use a second months in advance purchased ticket to re-enter to climb either of the 3 mountains (could not generally visit the ruins and climb a mountain on the same ticket, needed 2 tickets and to leave and re-enter). Now they have added the lookout to this process, so if a person wants to see the ruins, see the lookout, and climb a mountain they would need 3 $40 tickets, carefully timed so that a person is through with each section/ticket without having to rush all the way to the exit to meet the timed entry of their next ticket. Edit: Actually if I recall the mountain tickets are more like $55.

Just 5 years ago a person could enter on one ticket and roam the site and the mountains at will.

Reading further I see that the Inca Bridge is still allowed on the lookout-only ticket, but that is not an authorized substitution with the ticket I have already bought and then I would not be able to tour the ruins, which seems absurd. I wonder if I can push for the itinerary I already bought even though currently the lookout (and Inca Bridge) cannot be combined with a ruins tour ticket. I wish I spoke Spanish and could plead with the internal circulation guard staff.

Like so many places in the world, I am glad I have been there done that. What a shame. For me, it would be preferable if the powers that be simply limited admissions per day rather than restrict you while you are there.

Could we please have some links to this announcement?

I don't know enough about current tourism conditions to assert that it's time to give up on Machu Picchu, but I wouldn't give up on Peru if it happens to interest you. Consider that huge swathe of western Europe including Portugal, Spain, France, and the three Benelux countries, and now imagine that the primary reason tourists ever entered that vast region was to see the Alhambra in Granada. Imagine further that the "conventional wisdom" in Tourist-World were that if you travel into that huge part of Europe, you do so primarily to see the Alhambra, and if for some reason you can't, or won't visit the Alhambra, you don't travel to that area.
That's approximately the situation we have with Peru. In size it could contain all the European countries mentioned above, yet within Tourist-World there has evolved the idea that Peru=Machu Picchu=Peru=Machu Picchu=Peru=..... Now Machu Picchu is a great place to see, but there are many other fascinating ancient, historic, cultural and nature sites throughout Peru that curious, independent travellers will find worth while. Even omitting Machu Picchu, Cusco and the "Sacred Valley" -- the 40 mile area between Cusco and Machu Picchu -- offer several days' worth of interesting places to see.
Keep looking into the Machu Picchu situation; I realize that if it is as described, it may be bad news if you mainly want to check "Machu Picchu" off from a list of "World-Famous Must-Sees," but if you have an interest in Peru, or in South America, or in ancient American sites, you need not give up on Peru yet, or even on the Cusco area.

Here’s a summary of the changes

https://www.zoegoesplaces.com/new-machu-picchu-rules/

The first photo in the link is the famous lookout view. A ticket to access that platform does not allow access to the ruins beyond..

Faedus: Already warned that MP is an expensive mess, we have budgeted 7 other days for Cusco and Ollantaytambo. We are lowering expectations for MP even further. A lot of people would respond by devoting more days/tickets to MP and Aguas Calientes. We are just devoting the 1 day to the MP drill: 6:40 am train with military style line up for passport check before single file boarding, bus tickets to ruins, and train ride back. I almost hate to add it up with cheapest everything, train $100, bus $24, ruins access $40.

Thanks for that interesting link Tom and the further explanation about the ticketing process. Have you booked overnight accommodations in Aguas Calientes? I'm wondering if they might be able to help you with the appeal, or at least help you understand options. Or if you're day tripping it might be worth seeing if there is an outfitter that could help. FWIW, even knowing you won't maybe get to see everything, I still think it's worthy of a visit, with lower expectations as you noted.

I thoroughly enjoyed climbing up Waynapicchu when I went there in 2009. Back then there were limited numbers allowed up twice a day. Everybody had to sign in and out. Looking down onto March Picchu from Waynapicchu was amazing. At MP we stayed Sanctuary Lodge right at the entrance. We were on a National Geographic tour.

Cusco, Ollantaytambo, and Saqsaywamam outside of Cusco were very impressive. You should have a great trip.

Another place in the world too late to ever visit.

I really want to go but that's how I've been feeling a well. Also Iceland.

At MP we stayed at Sanctuary Lodge right at the entrance.

My, this Belmont hotel goes for $1950/night these days (meals included). I can be up for a well-placed splurge now and then, but wouldn’t consider this one.

I did find a free section of an Inca trail accessible by common bus, no fee or permit, and without tourists, which I am looking forward to. It’s not in the guidebooks and no regular tours go there.

https://www.alltrails.com/trail/peru/cusco/camino-inca-chinchero-urquillos

We loved MP and I would not advise skipping it just because you can't go to the very top of the hill to take the famous photo.
It is amazing and you can still enjoy the view going through the city.

I guess I'm lucky in that MP is one place I have had no real desire to visit. But it is sad that places like this are becoming so regulated. Was there a reason for the change, Tom? Just wondered if it's a desire to control crowds, or to make more money? Or both?

Was there a reason for the change

When the 2 most popular parts of MP are split into separate admissions, and the number of tickets is increased by 1100/day, and the result is getting a large number foreigners to pay twice, I don’t think there can be any other explanation except money.

There’s discussion on TripAdvisor on how if there are going to be more people, how will they be accommodated? The ways to AC (the only access to MP) are either the trains, already running the short approx 25 mile train jaunt at capacity, predawn till midnight, or walk via trails (Inca, Salcantay) or up the train tracks from downstream (via 5-6 hour multi buses ride around the mountains). Problem solved if the intention is to get the same number of visitors just to pay more.

I’m going to have to put Angkor Wat and the Galapagos on the fast track. Maybe already too late.

Best way to do the Galapagos is on a cruise, we did a wonderful one with Celebrity cruises.

Tom, check out the packages (train from Cusco, tour of the site, return train to Cusco....meal/drinks to, guide, meal/drinks fro.. on the Belmond's Hiram Bingham (named after person who discovered Machu Picchu). Not inexpensive, but truly extraordinary experience. You could check with the train booking office to see "how much" of the Machu Picchu you will be guided thru. While the experience is expensive, the ease and comfort of the experience will be forever remembered, and you can likely find a more affordable nice place to stay in Cusco, if you want to offset the higher-end cost of the train experience.

We experienced the Hiram Bingham as part of a group tour, and it was wonderful, as was our tour of Machu Picchu with incredible guides.

You are only going to do it once, so if resources allow, enjoy and avoid the hassles.

Likely you could get a refund for your already-purchased ticket for MP (since you may not otherwise experience what you were led to believe you were purchasing, unless there was fine print that mentioned their ability to pivot on the offering).

Likely you could get a refund for your already-purchased ticket for MP

People are emailing Peru and are reporting that no, there are no refunds for tickets to sites that are no longer being honored, specifically the inca bridge + the city ruins tour on one ticket, which is what I have a ticket for. I will have to pick one or the other. BTW there has been no notification to purchasers that there are any changes to what they purchased, that the tickets purchased won't be fully honored.

The Belmond train is $950 each way, the hotel is $1950/night for the cheapest room. There are a lot of ways to spend much money here. I think a better approach is to minimize time/expense to MP, accept that the experience is now diminished by its popularity, and concentrate on other cultural sites less expensive and touristed, potentially a better balance which will be more meaningful and memorable to me. Just a personal characteristic but I hardly ever enjoy spending a lot of money, and I do think slogging it out on the streets and public buses like the natives is the better travel experience.

Editing to add that there are other magnificent ruins, like Choquequirao, but require backpacking over days, carry tents with you and no toilets.

Things have changed and will continue to do so as more and more people travel. I did MP way back in 2005 - did it the backpacker way - took the backpacker train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas C arriving at 9:30 at night and then having to find a place to stay. Entry at that time was only about $25 to the entire site. Got the first but up so as to catch the surnrise before the folks from Cusco got in which was around 10 AM. These folks then left at 2 PM leaving the entire site almost empty (only about 20 folks left).

There was no fee to climb HuyanaPichu - I took my daughter up there and then dropped down the backside to visit the Temple of the moon. And then followed a trail round the side of the mtn to get back to the main climbing trail. Only regret was they wouldn't let me take my son up who was around 7 or 8.

Travel is always going to be about making tough choices based on time, money, distance, etc. While I feel good that I got to see MP and places like Syria, I regret not making it to Libya or Yemen or Barcelona before they got crowded or restricted. However, will still look to go see the iconic sites and not pass up on them just because of the restrictions. MP is still an awesome place and the construction is amazing.

Tom, randomly choosing Sept 19, I found $513 USD for the all-inclusive roundtrip. Not inexpensive by any means, but potentially hassle free and might offer some hotel savings (outside of the Belmond package) by not having to pay the higher cost to stay closer to the site.

But, I can understand if you like the closer-to-the-local ways of traveling. There are advantages to both approaches. Only YOU know what is right for you, and this is sure not your first "travel rodeo." You have the experience to know what is right for you, and you have done your research.. Our travel approach has evolved a lot over the years, as we have aged, to make things a bit more seamless and comfortable..

I made the suggestion, thinking POSSIBLY the train might offer the all-inclusive experience you are looking for once you arrive at Machu Picchu (we had choices on the extent and physical difficulty of tours..we chose the more difficult, extensive route.).

Your posting and the suggestions you have received will help others evaluate their plans.

And, of course, outside of the changes with pre-booked tickets, there is always the risk of a heavy rainfall or other natural event that could cause disappointment with pre-booked tickets. The day we were there, there was a light sprinkle of rain and significant fogging. I was sooooo disappointed "we've come this far and blah blah blah..........." But, when we got up to the part where one overlooks the Inca village (or whatever they call it), the rain had stopped, the clouds parted, the fog lifted, and it turned into the most beautiful sunny day.

Do beware that if there is any moisture, the wooden platforms/steps that help to connect the path of the old stone ones can get really, really slippery, even when one is wearing study hiking shoes with excellent traction. My husband slipped down about 8 stairs (he was ok), and then a young guide (with a group other than ours). slipped into me with the back of my ankle keeping her from sliding down further than the 4-5 stairs she had already gone down. I have what some could consider really long legs, but even for me going down some of the old stone steps was more of a "controlled drop" vs. a step down.

It's an interesting place, and you will be happy to have experienced it.

Safe travels, and let us know how it all works out for you.

Maggie: You had mentioned the Bingham train initially, round trip that’s $1026 without shuttle, or MP admission. Anything all inclusive at $500 is pretty much what we bought, the cheapest train and so on, purchasing directly the pieces from the 3 websites it is more like $200, without the guide. So that’s what I did.

Thanks for the slippage advice, it’s always a concern. Also the weather: I recall that you went later in the year, November?

Arnold: there is no backpacker train now, the cheapest ticket is $100 RT. Also with the timed entries MP is continuously packed now from 8 am till closing.

Wow! I’m glad I went in 1993. My entire trip to MP and the Amazon river cruise was 2K and included flights and guides

Diane: And now a lot of the Amazon is cleared and lots of people live there. I did see a lot in the "old days" without timed tickets and high prices, Sagrada Familia, Taj Mahal, Last Supper (I was the only one in the room), etc, and also when it was still possible to climb pyramids at Chichen Itza and Tikal, and Ayer's Rock/Uluru. Just glad I didn't push everything off till retirement, because it won't "always be there."

I did see a lot in the "old days" without timed tickets and high prices, Sagrada Familia, Taj Mahal, Last Supper (I was the only one in the room),

Tom, I still remember my visit to the Last Supper in the mid-90's, and I was also the only one in the room. I also spent 4 nights in the Cinque Terre that same year and there were only 3 other tourists in town while I was there. I didn't even have anything booked—I got off the train, walked down to Vernazza, and started asking around for a single room. A little old lady grabbed my hand, dragged me up to her apartment to meet her husband and they rented me a room. They spoke no English and me no Italian, but the husband spoke some French, and mine was barely passable so we figured everything out that way. :-)

Tom,

When we went to the Galapagos a number of years ago, the ships were restricted as to where they could dock in the islands. The Galápagos Islands were tightly regulated and protected even then. I suppose they may still be? We did a Nat Geo small ship cruise. It was pricey but the experience may be better than going with hordes of people on a large ship if those are even permitted in the islands any more.

Our Celebrity Galapagos cruise had less than 50 passengers. I think it was 47 and there were more crew and staff on the boat than passengers. It was super.

Galapagos: I did pick out a small ship for the Galapagos, that included several islands over 8 nights, but the trip needs to wait till I have a free February (when the waters are calmest), maybe 2026. Yes the national park is still restricted to visitors but the non-park parts of the islands are ballooning in population, something like 35,000 now live there. And lots of people now take speedboat tours for day trips hitting areas in the park then returning back to town.

Will reconsider the boat choice again in 2025, depends upon what is available.