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Long Beach, Washington, 2022

I.

Inside a pizza parlor on a late winter night, a man who is not Roger Waters plays "Wish You Were Here" in a key not familiar to the song. Occasionally he misses a chord, but no one minds. The Veggie Delight here is serviceable and the beer is local and nothing more is needed.

Outside, whirls of drizzle and the small-town desertion of a late Tuesday night present the illusion this tavern has detached itself from place and time as to live alone in a snow globe of Pacific Northwest mist. Here is Willoughby and here is Grover's Corners; here is a sigh of saudade held in place by the Pacific Ocean and the lack of anywhere else to go. Here is Long Beach, Washington, on a misty night in the wane of the plague.

II.

According to Wikipedia, Long Beach was originally named Tinkerville -- "Tinker" being a proper noun and not a verb -- but the reason why Tinkerville became Long Beach in 1922 is not noted. Wikipedia also mentions that between 1889 and 1930, a narrow-gauge railway ran through the town. What happened to the tracks after 1930 is also not noted: Long Beach is just the kind of place where things happen and no one bothers to write them down.

Long Beach wasn't always like this.

Before the Great War, Long Beach was a destination! A grand hotel awaited the folk of means who came to take the sea air. This hotel burned down, then was replaced by another hotel (which also burned down) and then replaced by a third hotel whose fate, unsurprisingly, is not noted by Wikipedia. A reasonable soul could be forgiven for thinking it went up in flames, thus completing the Trifecta of Long Beach Grand Hotel Infernos.

The final hotel's fate shocked the city's leader's into action: they needed a Plan B and they needed it fast. At some un-noted point, they put their brains to work (and I suspect pickled them in a monumental bout of drinking, considering what's coming). Their eureka! moment was an idea perfectly in line with the era that gave us The Three Stooges: the town's boosters would draw the attention of cartoonist Robert L. Ripley by creating the world's largest fry pan (I told you this was coming).

Surprisingly, they actually made the pan; it didn't even burn down. The cost of this singular contribution to the culinary arts is not noted (unsurprisingly), but civic pride and Hail Mary attempts at drawing tourists truly have no set price -- and by that I mean I'm positive someone got shorted in the making of the damned thing.

With their prop in place, it was time to put on a show. Like the mighty peacock whose tail is all a-flutter to attract his mate, the citizens of Long Beach gathered together and cooked about 100 pounds of clams in the giant pan in hopes of attracting the world's most popular cartoonist. Whether this stunt made Robert L. "Believe it or not" is not noted, but I'm sure everyone downwind had no problem testifying to the first clause of Ripley's idiom.

(Incidentally, the pan is still there, a relic of a time when the world's largest anything was worth a 200 mile drive over ruts and chuckholes just to see it in person. I suppose they figured a photograph just wouldn't do it justice. Keeping with the same theme, Long Beach is also home to the World's Largest Chopsticks, which are literally two long pieces of wood painted like chopsticks. I am not making this up, nor could I if I tried.)

(end pt. 1)

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491 posts

When the enormous skillet didn't pan out (ha...), Long Beach finally gave up on its limited aspirations, shrugged its collective shoulders, and began to shuffle on towards the future with minimum-wage enthusiasm. During the Great Depression, townsfolk were depressed; during World War 2; the sum total of those who went to war was greater than the sum total of those who returned. Shuffle, shuffle, shuffle: Elvis, Korea, Cuba, Sputnik.

The eventual primacy of I-5 and Seattle drew the tourists away and left Long Beach as a sad footnote to trying and failing a dozen times before just sighing heavily, grabbing a six-pack of something cheap and settling down for the car-explodey goodness of an American movie. But then, something wonderful happened: Long Beach NEVER became a destination.

Shirty Seattle with its over-hyped Space Needle (it's never even BEEN to space!) became a destination. So did the Hoh Rainforest, as did Blaine ('tho mostly because tourists returning from Canada miss the damned off-ramp to I-5) and look at all the good it did them: Hoh is so crowded in the summer that the owls have to make reservations; Blaine's main industry is directions how to get back on I-5, and Seattle actually made out pretty good, so I still have 2/3rds of a valid point.

Long Beach, on the other hand, decided good enough is good enough. Snobbery and entitlement never took root; twee is 4/5ths of what a bird says. The town's motto hovers somewhere between "Meh" and "Take It or Leave It". During the short Washington summer, a dribble of tourists come to drive on the euphonious long beach. It's not just any long beach either, it's "The World's Longest Beach" (close, but no Ripley) according to the arch above the short road between the main drag and the compacted sand. An honest-to-God Gray Whale skeleton is on display, too, for the amusement and edification of folks who have tired of driving on a very long beach and are seeking amusements anew.

(end pt. 2)

Posted by
491 posts

III.

I walk with my wife down the main street and we hold hands. Occasionally, a passing cloud spits showers at us, enough to break the monotony of the Pacific Northwest's slate-gray lid of stratus. The infinite overcast hides the sun as if the sight of it might invoke nostalgia in we who came from elsewhere and will perhaps make us take our leave.

IV.

The bakery is packed with locals and two Seattle strays. Freshmen girls in cheerleader skirts point out treats inside the cold case, seasoning them with giggly adjectives. They ask for each goody with the purity of a puppy begging for a treat. Their parents sit and gab cheerfully about small matters magnified by their locality and the lack of bigger things to worry about. Spared a Starbucks, they drink whatever coffee is being served that day and don't mind the lack of a stylized green mermaid. I forgo an Americano, 'tho on offer, for a cup of something local and good enough: it's good enough.

The stratus begins its separation from the blue sky and it looks like the sun will win out after all. I will stay put, regardless. Another walk, this time past a kiddy amusement park put up for the winter. The cars of a whirly-ride, painted like strawberries, await the return of purpose. They are out of place, for this is not a place of purpose, it is a place that exists because the Pacific Ocean exists and long beaches of compact sand and Gray Whale skeletons and where pretension never took hold.

When I leave, I expect to find it never existed at all.

V.

On the top floor of a restaurant on the edge of the beach, I look out to the west while I drink the kind of drinks I never drink at home because I'm on vacation and when on vacation, it is time for new drinks. The sun has finally won out and sits a finger-width above the horizon, the more to note its return to absence.

"Are you going to the fireworks show tonight?" our waitress asks as she brings me something flavored with lemon and local gin.

We are not, or at least we weren't, but tonight's show is special: today, the town is 100 years old. I guess they forgot that whole Tinkerville thing, but it was never written down.

That night, my wife and I stood on the boardwalk and watched the fireworks. We held hands while eternal Orion watched over our affection. The fireworks went on and on, making me wonder if Long Beach spent the next century's budget on this one night: a time when Orion will be there and I will not.

Now it is February of 2022, the wane of the plague, and as of this night, streaked with potassium and sulfur, my friend of three decades has been dead for exactly nine weeks. The last time I saw Jeff he was downing the handle of Jack that I said he could have a sip of. Between gulps, his unhinged laughter and deranged screams echoed down the Yuba River canyon. He was crazy, joyful, a maniac and a broken soul. His last words were spoken in a dark room: "I'm scared".

He would have loved these fireworks, as he loved all things burning or exploding. He was made of potassium and sulfur, too.

VII.

On the drive home, I listen to Roger Waters sing "Wish You Were Here". I check my rearview mirror: Long Beach is still there, but Tinkerville is not. Why the name was changed was never noted; it's just the kind of place.

Roger sings:

"How I wish,
How I wish you were here.

We're just two lost souls,
swimming in a fish bowl,
year after year.

Running over the same old ground,
What have we found?
The same old fears:
Wish you were here."

VIII.

In the end, we all are potassium and sulfur, scoring the sky once a century, for reasons left un-noted by Wikipedia.
(fin)

Posted by
9 posts

Mike, that is a beautiful homage to your friend; as well as a lovely bit of writing. You have a really nice way with words.

Next time I’m in Long Beach, I’ll look at it through different eyes. Thanks for this.

Posted by
491 posts

Sue,

Thank you for the compliment and you're more than welcome. Long Beach, and the entire WA west coast from the Astoria Bridge to the bridge to Aberdeen is a totally over-looked treasure. It's too bad tourists don't even know it's there.

-- Mike Beebe

Posted by
2720 posts

Beautiful, Mike. You captured all of it exactly.

Posted by
2640 posts

My husbands grandparents lived in Grayland and my husband would go stay with them every summer while his parents worked. We are not big fans of Long Beach itself, but do love the general area and really enjoy going over there in the fall when the visitors are gone. A few years ago, we were able to find his grandparents house and my husband was happy to see that it is still there and appears to be well kept. We love the area to take the dogs to the beaches there. This past fall was hard as we knew one of our dogs was at the very end, but she loved the ocean so much that we made sure she had one last trip there. Once we got to the beach and she got to play fetch in the ocean, she was so happy. I look forward to returning in the fall, and with a new puppy.

Your post really made me appreciate this area even more, so thank you!

Posted by
272 posts

A great write-up Mike. Could feel the place again.

"It's too bad tourists don't even know it's there."

(puts finger to lips)

A lot of "locals" like it like that.

Posted by
6713 posts

Great to read this, but you might have mentioned Marsh's Free Museum, featuring Jake the Alligator Man. It was probably meant to draw visitors, but it may also repel as many or more.

Posted by
477 posts

Wow, is all I can say and that I'm missing the ocean today.

Posted by
491 posts

CL: Thank you. It's a wonderful place, and its little quirks make it even more so.

Mikliz97: There's a line that has always stuck with me: E.B. White said, "Life is a series of dogs". After my cats died, I swore no more pets. I've said goodbye to too many people I loved in the last three years. And you're more than welcome. Writing about this experience made me miss Long Beach even more.

RobertH: I don't blame them in the least. I was thinking about how we travel to Europe for "authentic" experiences different than the ones that occupy our daily lives, yet sometimes there's experiences in our own backyard just as different and just as authentic. Then we steam-roll them with our love and affection. It's a double-edged sword: money comes wrapped in flesh-envelopes, but they want something in exchange for it.

Dick: I passed there, but didn't go in (because I'm too dumb to know a good thing when I see it). However, I went to the Mermaid Museum at the Westport Winery. Thaaaaaat was an experience. I might write about it later.

Leslie: Thank you. We carry the ocean in our blood, so it's little wonder that we do miss it so.

Thank you all for your kindness and compliments. This was a little heavier than my normal writing style, so I'll counter-balance it with my experiences flying the worst first-class ever; look for it soon!

-- Mike Beebe