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Ladysmith, Vancouver Island

Just a quick question, I've been asked overnight what there is to do in Ladysmith BC for a day.

The enquirer is going there mainly for her genealogy next week, but asking me what else to do.

It's a 5 day trip split with Victoria, going up from Seattle, so 3 days on island, thus I guess one day in Ladysmith.

I can only find one reference on the entire forum to Ladysmith, which talks about cinnamon buns at the Old Time Bakery. From googling I think that is the Old Town Bakery?

I know my own ferry hopping plans, such as they are, are more focused on Nanaimo and Cumberland BC- due to its mining links with Cumberland, England but thats another 90 miles north.

Posted by
5 posts

Yeah it is Old Town Bakery on 1st Ave. That is famous across the island because of legendary cinnamon buns. And for Transfer Beach Park Ladysmith Museum & Archives and historic 1st Avenue are must to do things so you could get great views with waterfront.

Posted by
1006 posts

Stuart

Will your “enquirer” be renting a car in Victoria?

There is no car ferry from Seattle to Victoria. Google maps shows a 2-1/2 bus journey from Victoria to Ladysmith (vs 65 minutes by car) and nearly one hour between Nanaimo and Ladysmith (vs. 17 minutes by car).

So, with relatively little time - 5 days RT from/to Seattle - it makes a difference. And, with a car, the possibility of going into Nanaimo in the evening is opened up.

FYI, if he/she is traveling from/to Seattle via the Victoria Clipper passenger ferry, it departs Seattle 11 am and arrives Victoria 2 pm. Departs Victoria 5 pm and arrives Seattle about 7:45 pm. Need to get to the ferry terminal at least 35 minutes prior to departure. So, much of departure day can be enjoyed in Victoria. (My very recent, mostly Victoria TR is here.)

If your “enquirer” is planning to travel with a car from Seattle, they need to take the Port Angeles (US) based Blackball Ferry or the BC ferry from Tsawwassen to Swartz Bay.

Posted by
12412 posts

Definetly taking her own car. I would imagine going out on BCF and back on the Coho.
Last year we analysed the timings of the various routes to within an inch of your life. The Coho is too infrequent and there are too many vagaries of the routes to PA. (either ferry or drive round via Tacoma).
So BCF is the obvious choice outbound. Coming back it's less important once off the Coho.

Ladysmith was considered, off a cruise last year on a very rare 14 hour daytime call at Victoria, using a rental car.
I did a genealogical file then, to make best and most efficient use of that part of the day.
But she eventually decided on a gentle touristy day in Victoria. The previous road trip a few months earlier had been mainly the less likely sights of Victoria.

The Clipper just isn't an option, whereas it would be for me.

Posted by
12412 posts

Not a trip report, but a comment that the Ladysmith Museum and Archives turned out to be a great and very helpful place, one of those unexpected treasures.

Managed to find a lot out about the mining locally, trace obituaries (I'd done the legwork there in checking catalogue indexes), and get the cemetery plan to trace the family gravestone. Also, most remarkably in a small local museum, obtained the death certificate. And of course as we know Canadian death certificates are so much more informative than their UK equivalents.

Oh, and find the last known address, which still exists. The original address is much more shaky, but that is what it is.

The story has it's uncanny parts. In the Cumberland Coalfield (England) there is a Wellington Pit (which had the worst disaster in that Coalfield in 1910), Ladysmith also had a Wellington Pit, which also had a bad disaster a few months earlier. We know our man had worked at Wellington Pit, England. There is a very significant possibility he worked at Wellington Pit, Ladysmith.

In England we had young children working in the pits, to my surprise it was exactly the same in Canada.

Never mind Butchart Gardens- in the context of this trip (where the Dunsmuir family are as omnipresent as the Lowther family in the Cumberland, England mining story) Craigdarroch Castle and Hatley Castle (and Gardens) are far more relevant.

No, I've not heard yet about the Cinnamon Buns- the genealogy was the more important thing for an initial report back.

This was an important little cross border trip. Different people have different reasons for their vacations.

Posted by
5 posts

Glad to know about Ladysmith Museum and Archives was a success for her research. To know mining history back then Wellington Pit in England and the one in Ladysmith is a worth visiting place. So do you thing is the most worst or best part of it?

Posted by
12412 posts

To know which is the best and worst part of this is a very difficult question, and in many ways is far, far beyond a travel forum. It is interesting that in consolidating on last week the research has now moved on to Alberni where it turns out part of the family moved to- and has another little museum and archives.

At the moment my emotions are on a rollercoaster ride. We have been researching this family for 43 years, of that I have been working the case on and off for 16 years, so I can not be dispassionate. But in the last week we are now on the cusp of establishing that there are almost certainly living relatives on Vancouver Island, who were totally unknown about. This was all about the past, now it is something else. When that happens it is always an odd situation. There was never the slightest indication that might occur.

Just to be clear this is not my family, the link is purely to where I live in England.

When men moved from England to a new mining life in Canada or WA (USA) it was on promises of a better life made by recruiters.

In this case it has now emerged that the family lost two men in the awful Wellington Pit tragedy in England in 1910 (where 137 men and children were killed). To think of moving to another place thousands of miles away where there is a Wellington pit sends cold shivers down my spine (did they know that before moving?). With this family doubly so, as they had lost members in a different above ground tragedy at Wellington Pit.

Life in pit communities in Cumberland, England was hard, very hard. It is easy to see the lure of the recruiters from the NWIC (in WA) or Dunsmuir's mines on Vancouver Island or the mines at Fernie BC (where important key facts were conveniently omitted). Some men couldn't cope with life in North America and returned home. But most stayed- it was a different life, yes better living conditions than in England. Whether working conditions were that much different It is way harder to say.

Also in this family (a different branch) young children were sent from England to a farm school in Eastern Canada (a complex subject). Having found out yesterday that Vancouver Island had a farm school at Fairbridge (and the Chapel survives) that is now an add on for my friend when she goes to Alberni. What I would find a hard but necessary visit. Yet another complicated part of history.

Personally for over 40 years I have had a BC ferry hopping trip up my sleeve, from Vancouver working slowly up the island then the Inside Passage. I doubt it will ever happen now but the events of the last week or two have kind of been a learning curve for me, and deeply altered how I would do that trip, that it isn't just the well known places to visit.

Rick talks about Europe through the back door, and this hard to explain concept of travelling like a local. That applies in other places too.

I have a very strange feeling right now. I should have landed at YVR yesterday (on a big and very important trip which had to be cancelled), and tomorrow cutting across Vancouver Island on my way to the Olympic Peninsula then Seattle, the Cascades and Idaho. I now know that today I would have been visiting the archives of the First United Church of Canada in Vancouver, not just being a tourist for the day!!
But tomorrow would have been a big missed opportunity, on the cut over to the OP.

I was going to let this thread wither away, sorry for my ruminations which the webmaster will probably delete.