Jerusalem: Hammam?

The practice of hammam lives on in other cities, but has become a tourist event at great prices. With the advent of indoor plumbing and water heaters as standard, the need for communal baths for locals may have greatly reduced. Though I haven't been personally, it looks like Jerusalem has done the same...hammam have become spas.

I missed this question, guess I was recovering from Pesach. I also remember that hamam. I went once, in 1974. I think Wednesday was ladies' day (there probably weren't more than 2 a week). I just did some googling and found an article from 2013 referencing it and bemoaning the loss of it, so it would seem to be long gone. The one in the article was in the Bukhari quarter which is indeed close to Mea Shearim. I remember those women with little kids (grandchildren undoubtedly) feeding them picnic lunches brought from home. Apropos of Maria's response, everyone had indoor plumbing and water heaters. The hamam was for Jerusalem what the beach was for Tel Aviv, a place to relax, be with friends, swim and sun bathe. Now there are swimming pools in Jerusalem and most families have cars so a day at the Mediterranean or the Dead Sea is easy.

I will warn you that if you haven't been here for 50 years, you won't recognize anything! I'm going through my memories from 1971, when I made aliyah, and I can't think of anywhere outside the Old City that looks like it was then, or even much in the Old City.

Hi Chani!
It looks like we're about the same "vintage" as I am, if you first went to Jerusalem in 1974--I was there in '68-69, then 70-71. I'm trying to prepare myself for the changes, but I know it'll be a shock.

OK, that hammam and others like it are gone. I'm thinking that it would be fun to go to a natural hammam. A friend mentioned Hammat Gader, but that looks very commercialized. Anything else that's in a more natural setting? We'll be in Ein Gedi, and I think I remember there were some there, but maybe that's also become touristy.

Anything else you think we should see that we should see? We know the "big" stuff--any undiscovered gems?

Thanks again!

Shalom Lisa!

Hammat Gader is in the north and very commercialized - I peeked in last year - just big modern swimming pools. The Roman ruins are inaccessible . . . mostly I think because there's no money for repairs and maintenance. Most of the hot springs are around Tiberias. I don't know of any hot springs near Ein Gedi. There are some natural springs. Ein Feshkha comes to mind, though I haven't been there in decades. There are cold springs that you can dip in on the Ein Gedi hike. Don't miss the synagogue ruins nearby that are part of the park.

I can't think of anything else around the Dead Sea. I will share my secret place with you, now that we are chaverot. When you drive down to the Dead Sea from Jerusalem, after you turn south on Route 90 you will come to a check point. Just before you go past it, there's a small road to the right. If you take it, you'll go up some switchbacks and get to a helipad (no longer in use). Park there for the best views of the Dead Sea. It's about a 10 minute drive.

There's tons of stuff to see and do in Jerusalem. A few things that are new that I recommend -
1. The Kotel Tunnel Tour. I've done it twice and would do it again. Buy tickets online in advance, the English tours almost always sell out, often well in advance - not open on Shabbat or chag.
2. The Israel Museum was completed renovated several years ago and it's superb, with a very good audio guide. The Dead Sea Scrolls (under the white dome) is the same, but there is a good intro video. The Second Temple Model (that used to be at the Holy Land Hotel in Bayit veGan) is now at the museum - really good with the audio guide. Then there's the main building with three wings, the archaeology and Jewish wings are not to be missed. The third is the art wing - also good, of course. The museum is open from 10-5 on Shabbat and holidays.
3. Ben Yehuda St from Kikar Zion to King George is a pedestrian mall. It comes alive on Motzei Shabbat, good place for souvenirs (bargaining is recommended, though it doesn't always work), street entertainment, cafes and street food, and people-watching.

4. The Jewish Quarter of the Old City, especially the Cardo from Second Temple times.