Highway 101 Pacific Coast Roadtrip -- Seattle to Mill Valley -- Must See's

In Astoria, OR, we really loved the Buoy Beer Company for dinner and the Lewis & Clark Nat'l Historical Park. Haystack Rock in Cannon Beach. Stop at Tillamook for cheese and ice cream! Yaquina Head lighthouse and park were beautiful. Some good restaurants in Newport, OR. Incredible views and sights just south of Yachats, OR.

If you start in Seattle you have two options; go out and around the Olympic Peninsula or not. If you do decide to go the long way you should drive down to Olympia and then up to Port Angeles, from there to Forks, and then down the coast to Aberdeen/Grey's Harbor. You can easy make that loop in a day, but I usually stay over in Forks or out on the coast at La Push. You should be able to get a beach condo for $40-$50/night.

From Aberdeen you go along the coast to Long Beach. Most of that side of the coast was logged in the 60-70's and still has some going on. (They work in the rain.) There's a really good museum for Lewis and Clark in Long Beach. Then you have the bridge to Astoria. If there's weather that can be a ride. The bridge does move! That's one of the most dangerous river's in the world at that point. But Astoria is nice, an old fishing village. Just south is Tillamook, which is famous for cheese and ice cream. They have one of the best collections of old airplanes you can ever see in an old blimp hanger just outside town.

From Tillamook you come a little inland, but you can see signs to take you out to some of the lighthouses of you want. From Lincoln City to Newport is real pretty. And if the sun comes out you can probably see some seals or otters on the rocks. That stretch is famous for crab and lobster so make sure you eat local.

I love the drive from Newport to Coos Bay. You pass the best sand dunes north of Pismo Beach in that stretch. Coos Bay is a nice town to spend some time in too. But from there down to Klamath (in CA) is the most rural stretch of road you'll hit. It's the sticks, and services are few even in summer. Plan accordingly.

Just outside of Crescent City is Jed. Smith State Park. It's one of my favorite places to just be alone in the woods. Fabulous trees! South of there is Eureka, the big city for that part of the coast. And from there you probably want to stay on 101 and visit Humboldt for the redwoods. (You can go out along the coast there, but I wouldn't recommend it. The roads are pretty minimal.)
At Leggett you can pick up Hwy 1 and head down the famous Mendicino Coast to Ft Bragg, and Point Arena. This is the drive everyone talks about, and yeah, it's best in a little roadster with the sun out, but it's pretty good anytime. If you want a treat stay at Sea Ranch, but be prepared to pay, as this is very popular.

Now you have to make another choice of routes; stay on 1 south of Bodega, or cut over the hills to Petaluma and then to Napa Valley. Myself, I'd do the detour to Napa, because a little wine country will be nice after all the seaside. From Napa you can cut over to SF (which you'd hit if you come south from Bodega).

More to follow:

Apparently this isn't clear to most folks; driving I5 and driving the coast roads are completely different! It takes most of a day of hard driving to get from one end of Oregon to the other. The coast road is mostly two lanes (one in each direction) and goes thru dozens of small communities with associated traffic and stops. Likewise, the California coast; it's a good days drive from Santa Cruz to Santa Barbara, and having driven it dozens of times I still stop to just sit and look at something on the way. South of SB you hit traffic, and unless you detour to the Freeway (I5 again) you're going to be in stop and go all the way to Mexico.

I'd fly into SeaTac and drive the route Olympia/Aberdeen/Long Beach/Astoria to get on 101. Seriously the Lewis and Clark Museum at Cape Disappointment is worth stopping for. Especially if it's not raining. Likewise I think driving over the bridge to Astoria is something everyone should experience, but I like bridges.

10 days to San Fran. is very doable. I've already recommended the Sea Ranch, and that would be a nice place to stop. If the weather is good a picnic at Ft Ross is always nice too. Plan on some wine tasting south of Leggett. (Check with your airline, most will ship wine as uncharged baggage. The wineries will pack it if you ask.)

There are several good lighthouses you may want to stop at. Pt Arena in CA and Yaquina Head light in OR are among the best. Plan a walk at Pt Reyes too!

The Sea Lion Caves are a tourist trap. If you want to see them for free go to Yaquina Head and look at the rocks at the base of the cliff. If the tide is out you can walk out a long way and there's all kinds of tide pools.

Last, while Pot is legal in WA, taking it across State lines is a bad idea.

I'll only list some interesting stops of Northern CA that I'm familiar with and would recommend:
- Fort Bragg/ Glass Beach
- Mendocino (definitely a favorite - very charming)
- Sea Ranch (interesting housing architecture)
- Point Reyes National Seashore

Not sure what you mean by "driving down the coast" since Seattle is at least 2 hours inland from the coast. Where will you drive to get to the actual ocean? If you'd like to see some great and nearly deserted beaches, most any beach in WA north of Aberdeen may be of interest. I'd personally aim at those as far to the north as possible since those are the most isolated and scenic. They are also the farthest from Seattle (check Google), so your schedule needs to be considered. If your nature interests include botany you should not miss the cobra lily carnivorous pitcher plants at Darlingtonia State Natural Site just north of Florence OR, just off Hwy 101. There are over 60 Oregon State Parks along Hwy 101. Many of them are very scenic. I'd suggest you do a little online research a pick out the ones that interest you. My favorites include Cape Kiwanda near Tillamook and the 3 Parks at Cape Arago south of Coos Bay. If you can include a significant detour from the coast I would not miss Crater Lake. Yes, it's a big detour from the coast but it's one of the most unique & beautiful National Parks in the US. I will leave Northern CA for others to comment on. Given the wealth of scenery you will pass by, you'll need to prioritize.

Do you have some particular reason to stay in Mill Valley, like friends or family? If not, I would point out that places in Marin county are not the best bases for S.F. sightseeing. Transportation is too time consuming, not to mention, expensive. You might, however, enjoy a ferry ride between Sausalito and S.F.
I second the suggestion of Pt. Reyes Nat’l Seashore. In addition to the lighthouse, there’s a short, very informative hike on the earthquake trail, which straddles the San Andreas fault. Start at park headquarters for a map and list of all attractions.

Between Pacific City, OR and Lincoln City, OR is Neskowin. In the late 1990's a big storm uncovered the remains of a prehistoric forest on the beach. It's pretty unusual. There's a small store and restaurant and day use state park. There's hiking trails a little south at Cascade Head. At low tide you can walk out to Proposal Rock.

What KGC said, EXCEPT:

The drive from Seattle to Olympia and then (north, west, and south) around the Olympic Peninsula is a long way. I wouldn't agree that "you can easily make that loop in a day." If you're going to go around the peninsula I suggest an overnight in either Port Angeles or Forks/LaPush. You can also save time by taking a ferry from Seattle to Bainbridge (or from nearby Edmonds to Kingston) and northwest from there. Port Townsend is worth a visit though a side-trip from 101.

On the west side of the Olympic Peninsula 101 touches the coast for only a short stretch at Kalaloch (good overnight if you can get in). The rest is mostly through second-growth forest, with a couple of spur roads going west to the coast and back. The best of Washington's coast is about as good as pretty much all of Oregon's coast, so if you want to focus on coastline you might as well get to Oregon. The Lewis and Clark site at Cape Disappointment (in Washington) is very good, with great views over the mouth of the Columbia. And the bridge to Astoria is also exciting (though quite safe). Just beyond Astoria is Fort Clatsop, the reconstructed site where Lewis and Clark spent the winter, quite well done with good exhibits.

With two weeks for the coastal road trip you'll have plenty of time for whatever you want to see. Even if two weeks is your total trip, just one week along the coast is enough for a lot of stops. I'll just add that the aquarium in Newport OR is probably the best between Seattle and Monterey, which is saying a lot.

Others have mentioned Pt Reyes. I'll specifically suggest taking a walk/hike to see the majestic Tule Elk.
https://www.nps.gov/pore/planyourvisit/wildlife_viewing_tuleelk.htm

"The tule elk can be found in several locations within the park but the best chance of seeing them is in the Tule Elk Preserve at Tomales Point. They graze freely and are often seen near the road as you drive into the preserve."

Adding to what has already been mentioned regarding Oregon: near Astoria is Fort Clatsop where Lewis & Clark wintered; just South of Astoria is Fort Stevens (The fort has the distinction of being the only military fort in the United States to be fired upon by an enemy during time of war since the War of 1812, when it was attacked by a Japanese submarine on June 21, 1942.); Cape Lookout is near Tillamook; Cape Kiwanda is actually in Pacific City; take a dune buggy ride on the sand dunes just south of Florence; consider a jet boat ride up the Rogue River from Gold Beach. Lots of lighthouses, but Tillamook Rock lighthouse because its on a rock in the ocean, Yaquina Head lighthouse, and Heceta Head (quite photogenic) top my list. There is far too much for just two weeks. Have fun picking and choosing!

I'm also at a loss to know why you've chosen Mill Valley. Google maps shows about a 1/2 hour drive into the City but that's at midnight when there's no traffic. That doesn't happen during the day and once you're in the City, traffic can be bad and driving is difficult because of the steep hills and the cable cars. Finding parking isn't easy and can be very expensive. If you can't find accommodations in the City within your budget, best to stay in the East Bay or on the Peninsula near a BART station, so you'll be able to commute in a reasonable amount of time. I'm not familiar with the East Bay but there are hotels around the airport that aren't far from BART.

I can speak for Oregon sites - here are some ideas from North to South: I second visiting Astoria (though inland and on the river, a great town). Buoy Beer is fantastic, as well as Fort George Brewery (both kid friendly). Climb the Astoria Column, look for Goonies movie sites. Eat at the Bowpicker. As you head south along the coast, you pretty much can't miss with any of our public beaches (yes, they're all public). Ecola State Park is one of my favorites, along with Cape Lookout - hike the 2.5 miles out to the end of the cape for amazing views. Tillamook creamery is worth a stop - the refurbished visitor center is fantastic. Depoe Bay has the world's smallest harbor. Watch the boats come in and out - I just went fishing from here and can tell you it's an amazing/scary thrill to cross the bar there. In Newport visit Yaquina lighthouse and tide pools at low tide. Eat at Local Ocean you won't regret it. Stop at Cape Perpetua for hikes (try the Hobbit Trail) and visit the tide pools near the lighthouse. Yachats (yah-hots) is probably the best little beach town in Oregon (don't tell the others). The dunes in Florence are fun - take a buggy tour for sand filled thrills. Farther south is Charleston/Coos Bay and another of my favorite state parks, Shore Acres - spectacular grounds and scenery. The south coast (Bandon, Gold Beach, Brookings) is the banana belt. so you might be treated with California-like warm temps.

More ideas here: http://visittheoregoncoast.com/ Also this article highlights the eleven lighthouses along the way https://www.oregonlive.com/travel/2017/02/take_a_lighthouse_road_trip_do.html

You didn't mention when you're going, but be prepared for the summer traffic on the Oregon coast. Highway 101 is generally a two lane road with plenty of slow RVs and low speed limits through towns. Not to discourage you, just something many people don't plan for. Also, Oregon is full service gas only - don't try to pump your own! It's rarely "hot" on the coast and so be sure to bring sweatshirts and at least one pair of long pants. If it is hot inland, it is often overcast and drizzly at the coast. Also, the ocean here is never warm, so save swimming for the hotel pool.

Enjoy your visit!

Wow! Thank you all for your wonderful replies. I've been immersing myself in research based on your generous suggestions. We've already changed a few things around based on your feedback and we are getting really excited.

I did not remember that Oregon had full-service gas stations -- funny I was just telling my daughter last week how I remember as a kid when we pulled into gas stations, my Dad saying: "Fill it up with regular, please."

After Seattle, heading south to Long Beach/Cape Disappointment, then Astoria for the night, then on down. We have a rough outline of where we're staying, but are continuing to fill in day stops & details as we research, so please feel free to continue adding suggestions. Really appreciate the detailed responses. Thanks so much!

Agree with previous posters--Buoy Beer in Astoria is a great spot for lunch or dinner and the view from the Astoria Column is quite impressive (the 165 steps to the top will give you a good workout!)

Though we've spent a fair amount of time on the northern Oregon Coast we've found that the central coast is a bit less crowded. The stretch between Lincoln City and just south of Yachats is our favorite--a lovely drive! The chowder at Gracie's Sea Hag in Depoe Bay is considered by many to be the best on the coast (though people agree to disagree--best chowder is a personal thing!) and you can often spot local whales frolicking beyond the wall. We love Nana's Irish Pub in Newport--definitely reminds me of of pubs we visited in Ireland. They do a proper Guinness pour--and the food is quite tasty too. Seal Rock is a nice little beach and if you walk down to the end (it's a very short beach) you can usually find seals sunning on their favorite rock and sometimes a stray pelican or two. In Yachats you can find some great beers at Yachats Brewing Company and we always stop in at the Drift Inn for breakfast (or lunch or dinner or just a snack). Drift Inn has also added a B&B component and, while we've never stayed there, I'm betting it's quite nice. A little further south don't miss the Cape Perpetua area--the visitors' center is worth a stop and nearby Devil's Churn is an experience!

If you like smoked fish, stop in at Jospehson’s in Astoria and pick up the fixings for a picnic or for snacks. http://www.josephsons.com/

If you end up in Cannon Beach, make dinner reservations at the Irish Table, http://www.theirishtable.com/.

Thanks for the additions, we definitely appreciate "a proper Guinness pour"! We're also hoping there will be an abundance of restaurants offering fresh fish/seafood, and welcome suggestions starting in Seattle & on down through OR & N. CA. Is it still possible to get fresh, wild-caught king salmon?

Seattle question: We're staying N. of downtown & have the better part of an afternoon/evening free, any suggestions for visiting an Island? We love a good hike/run/walk, so welcome suggestions on favorite islands & specific locations.

Getting excited & really appreciate all the wonderful responses on this forum. Rick Steves is a hero, and we were tickled when we met him last summer in Prague!

Thanks!

While you could go over to Bainbridge Island I wouldn't advise it. Likewise the San Juan's, you just won't have time.

For a nice hike with great scenery and good trails I highly recommend Discovery Park in Magnolia. The trails are well kept up and go right down to the water, and the lighthouse, and there's a nice place for sitting (or a picnic) at the Daybreak Star cultural center. This is right above the locks and you can often see (or hear) sea lions chasing salmon there. You can watch the boats too and see clear up to Canada if the weather's clear.

Anthony's Home Port is the local seafood chain, and fresh salmon and shellfish are definitely on the menu. If you go to Magnolia though, their lesser known place in the commercial terminal is Chinook's. Same menu, lower prices, fresher fish. This is where I get my salmon, basically right off the boat.

Check and see if the fish are running, because the other attraction over there is to go into the locks and watch the salmon run the ladders through the glass windows. This corner of Seattle is one of my favorite, and pretty much locals only.

The bohemian corner of the city is right next door; Fremont. If you're free on a weekend morning this is the place to check out, as they have a great open air market and the center of town is eclectic and designed for walking around.

In the city center, unless you really have need to be like every other tourist, stay away from the docks. If you are planning on visiting the Pike Place market try to go early, say NLT 8am, when they are still bringing in all the fresh stuff. All the commercial fish there comes from the terminal in Magnolia, so it's yesterdays catch.

Place's I'll recommend (in the city center) to eat are Wild Ginger, Flying Fish, or a little hole in the wall place called Kau Kau for Chinese BBQ (in the international district). (This is my go to when I hit the Pinball Museum for a couple hours fun on the games.)

In Astoria I like to eat at the Bridgewater, right at the south end of the 101 bridge, as much for the view as the food.

If you go down to Newport and visit the Yaqina Head lighthouse a good place to fuel up is the Rogue Ale Public House.

Further south, if you have the time, I like the Point Cabrillo Park as another good place to take a lunch and just find a quiet place to sit and watch the world go by. Good lighthouse here too.

Highway 128 from Albion to Geyserville is one of the great roads for a sports car that nobody knows about. It runs on an old logging road across the coast range into wine country. This was my Sunday drive when I lived in Napa.

If you're driving Hwy 101 into San Francisco in a rental car, this website has the information on how to pay the Golden Gate Bridge no-toll-booth toll: http://goldengate.org/tolls/rentalvehicles.php

In Bandon, the Face Rock Creamery has free cheese sampling. They have excellent cheese. At Face Rock State Park, check this website for dates for Circles in the Sand labyrinths: https://www.sandypathbandon.com July 31-Aug 3 have morning low low tides along the Coast, with Bandon having the lowest at a minus 2 feet below sea level.

You asked about visiting an island while staying in Seattle, and about fresh salmon. You might consider this tour, consisting of a boat ride to nearby Blake Island (a state park), a salmon dinner, and a presentation about the local native American cultures. There's some time to explore on the island, which is mainly wooded. I've had the dinner and seen the show, both are excellent. The same company does harbor and other boat tours around Seattle if that works better for you.

If you want to go to a Puget Sound Island to hike I would suggest Vashon, although getting there from north of downtown may be difficult since you pick up the ferry in West Seattle. Here's the summer ferry schedule: https://www.wsdot.com/ferries/schedule/scheduledetailbyroute.aspx?route=f-v-s. There are a number of places to hike on Vashon: Center Island Forest (mostly flat, share some trails with mountain bikes and horses), Burton Acres on Burton peninsula, park at Jensen Point where you can also rent kayaks and SUP boards, and Maury Island Marine Park which will give you a better workout and take you through one of the largest madrona forests still standing. If you like Thai food go to May's Kitchen (reservations highly recommended). Good burgers at Island Queen.

For fresh off the boat seafood - Local Ocean in Newport. And in Eureka, Brick & Fire Bistro - not necessarily seafood although they usually have a fish option, but just really good food and lots of veggie options. And Tidal Raves in Depot Bay - lots of seafood and wonderful views. And another vote for Buoy Brewing in Astoria.

I'm sure these have been mentioned above but, Shore Acres State Park near Coos Bay is just drop dead gorgeous. And the Columbia River Maritime Museum is worth a visit.

Lots of great advice above. My two cents as a resident of the Central Oregon Coast:

• best pizza on the coast is in Neskowin at the Cafe on Hawk Creek

• the hike out to Cascade Head from the forest road 1861 is only 30 minutes each way and a to-die-for view. At the top of the hill on 101 south of Neskowin, watch for the forest road on the right. Drive in about 3 miles to the trail head and walk off some of that pizza.

• if you like gardens, stop by the Connie Hansen Garden in Lincoln City to stretch your legs. A hidden gem.

• Depoe Bay is the Whale Watching Capital of the Oregon Coast. Weds thru Sun there are rangers at the Whale Watching Center right on the bay to answer questions and help you spot them.

• Stop on top of Cape Foulweather at the little State Park run gift shop (open Wed thru Sun). We almost always see whales there, except in January.

• Just outside of Coos Bay, detour to Shore Acres, one of the most fabulous gardens I have seen.

Thanks so much for all the great replies!

We really appreciate them & will be including many suggestions on our trip. Happy travels!