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Cuenca, Ecuador!

My wife and I have lived in Cuenca for many years after discovering it by accident the Rick Steves way.

I began traveling with a backpack a few days after graduating from high school, using a first edition copy of Rick's "Europe Through the Backdoor" as my inspiration. Those first places I visited over several months, including Gimmelwald, Cinqueterra, and others, are permanently etched in my favorite memories and led to many trips by bike across Europe and the US. That led to employment as a backpacking and cycling guide for the American Youth Hostels during college, where I got to take groups of ten teens all over Europe and the US.

I'm writing to tell anyone interested that the local food in Cuenca is amazing. The city has half a dozen open farmer's markets, including one of the best open markets in all of Ecuador: Feria Libre. Street food is diverse and great. Lunches here, called almuerzos, range from $2.50 to $4.00 and include two main courses (soup and main) plus fresh fruit juice and sometimes dessert.

A great resource for Ecuadorian food and the food particular to Cuenca (with some solid restaurant reviews) is the book, Cuenca Eats. It describes many of the traditional dishes, including seafood and exotic fruits, that I've not found elsewhere in my prior travels all over the world.

So if anyone comes to Ecuador, be sure to check out the food scene in Cuenca!

James Li

Posted by
5075 posts

Are you recommending the guinea pig?

Posted by
2252 posts

Been there and the food is wonderful! I had several dishes but my favorites were the delicate and delicious fish soups. The markets are amazing. Pigs on a spit with the one inch squares of skin were really tasty.

Posted by
3 posts

If you like Chinese roast pork (with the crispy skin), you will enjoy cuy (guinea pig). Our favorite restaurant for that is Tres Estrellas, where one guinea pig (enough for two people) and all the traditional side dishes to accompany it, costs about $26. Reservations only since they only roast the cuyes that are pre-reserved (and begin about an hour before you arrive).

Posted by
973 posts

Thank you, James. I remember fondly my two visits to Cuenca in the 1980s. Back then the only cuy we could find in my home city, New York, was frozen, but now it's on many menus in the neighborhoods in the borough of Queens where many Ecuadorean immigrants live.

Might I ask you if you rent or own a home and what your daily activities tend to be? I'm curious about spending time in other countries and I enjoyed so much my times in Ecuador, so long ago.

Posted by
3 posts

I work remotely from here (several different ways) and also am a musician and writer. We own but most of our friends here rent. Both are easy and have their advantages. We find we have very full lives here.

Many Cuencanos are familiar with the NY area and have relatives living and working there, so glad to hear you can get Ecuadorian food (including cuy) there now!

Posted by
9541 posts

I normally don't do street food in third world countries, but I can say that having been to Ecuador and Peru three times that the cuisine in those countries is special.
Especially Peru. Home of the potato. I had meals where potatoes were served, in fact, six different types and flavors of potatoes (they were small).