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Chicago, Chicago, that toddlin' town...

Chicago.

The Windy City
The Second City
Chitown
Chiraq

Chicago has as many names, but seemingly only one reputation.

When I told people I planned to visit Chicago, I inevitably got the same question: why?

This was almost always followed by helpful advice:

"Don't go out at night."
"Avoid the south side."
"Stay away from the clubs downtown after sunset."
"Take the "L" at your own risk."

Honestly, the negativity intrigued me: how bad could it possibly be?

If you don't feel like reading further, here's the short answer: I just came back from a wonderful stroll in the cool of the evening; I enjoyed Soul Food in Hyde Park; I attended a Hip-Hop concert downtown that started at 8:00pm and I took the "L" all the way from Lincoln Park to Monroe street. I survived all of these sojourns completely unharmed. No one mugged me, shot at me, swore at me, or even gave me a dirty look.

If that sets your mind at ease, feel free to stop here. What follows is color laced with opinion and sprinklings of information. Caveat emptor.

On the adoration of John Wayne Gacy

John Wayne Gacy is to Cook County, Illinois, what Ted Bundy is to the Pacific Northwest. Ted Bundy is well on his way to deserved obscurity, whereas Gacy has a second life in the form of a series of infamous paintings he created featuring an autobiographical character, Pogo the Clown. The paintings are embarrassingly amateurish -- one part evil Bob Ross and one part 1970s Paint-By-Numbers -- but due to their diabolical artistry, they represent a trepanation into the broken mind of a serial killer.

Anyone curious enough to view these paintings can find them in the Graveface Museum, In an exact replica of JWG's prison cell, his paintings of Elvis, clowns, clowns with skulls for their head, and incongruously, multiple paintings of the Seven Dwarves (Disney apparently told him to knock it off), hang on the walls.

The museum presents not only Gacy's art (if you can call it that), but sketches and drawings by other serial killers and assorted reprobates as well. There's also a section about human oddities, presented with tenderness and tact, and some taxidermied animals with two heads.

Yeah, it's that kind of place. You either want to see it, or you really don't. There's no middle ground. If you're in the former group, you can find The Graveface Museum at 1892 N. Milwaukee Avenue.

In Search Of ... MALORT!

Glascott's Saloon (2158 N. Halsted St.) is the kind of bar that once anchored neighborhoods before the discovery of ferns and Chablis. It's a dark place where the bottles behind the bar, and the patrons, are lit up. The only concession to activities outside of drinking are three TVs, all tuned tonight to Monday Night Football. This is a serious place for serious drinkers and woe befalls anyone who orders anything clever.

My order was a "Chicago Handshake" -- a shot of Malort and a can of Old Style beer.

For those not familiar with Malort, it's a yellow liquor, native to Chicago, and is as bitter as an alimony fight. Most people do not go out of their way to drink it, but despite that, it's more or less Chicago's spirit animal. No dive bar worth its 4:00am closing time is found without. It's a terrible drink with a terrible reputation (actual slogans are "Tonight's the night you fight your dad" and "It tastes like fermented back sweat"; my own opinion is that Malort is distilled with the tears God sheds in His disappointment with mankind).

I was anxious to find out just how awful it is.

Spoiler alert: it's not good by any definition, but Germany's Underberg is far more bitter and probably twice as expensive. In a way, Malort is a good representation of Chicago: despite its reputation, it's not really that bad. If you want seedy, you can find it -- just like you can in any city -- but where else are you going to find a gut-punching pizza only a block away from American Gothic and an authentic U-boat?

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Wrigley Field

What is more Chicago than a ballgame at Wrigley Field? Since 1914, Chicagoans have hiked up north to watch their beloved Cubs win and lose, take pennants and lose heartbreakers, all within the friendliest confines in the sport of baseball. This year, The Chicago Cubs, oft hapless and hopeless, have already secured a playoff spot. Their competition -- the St. Louis Cardinals -- have, and would, not. What a perfect matchup for a couple of Seattlites with no dog in the fight.

A game at Wrigley Field on a warm Saturday afternoon was just too perfect an experience to pass up. The stadium was without an empty seat and the guys hawking $12 cans of cold Budweiser and $10 plain hotdogs were doing a bang-up business. From high in the nosebleed seats, with an iron post blocking my view of first base, I settled in for 9 innings of excitement.

The very first of the Cubs at-bats stepped into the batter's box, the pitch was thrown and ...

CRACK! HOME RUN!!

The crowd held its breath as the ball sailed high over center field, then plopped down into the stands. Instantly, no one was sitting; every voice was a cheer and every face was home to a smile. The mood is set for the rest of the game.

(We'd rise to our feet many times: there was a salute to Korean War vets; a rendition of National Anthem where the performer held the "braaaave" note for so long that he scored an ovation at the end; Take Me Out To The Ballgame -- sung with the kind of bravery that only the liberal application of expensive cheap beer could inspire -- rocked the middle of the seventh inning.)

More homers followed, some by the Cardinals but more by the Cubs. The game slipped from a contest to a rout. No one left. There was time for another beer, and a couple more Chicago Dogs, made more delicious by the simple joy of watching a ball game with 38,000 fellow Chicagoans.

The Cubs won and the Red Line train back south was packed shoulder-to-shoulder with happy fans. Tomorrow, the Bears will play at Soldier Field. On Monday, the traffic along Lakeshore Drive will back up all the way to Lincoln Park. The long, odd extension of summer will eventually give way to fall, and then to the lake effect snow of winter.

It's funny that when we travel to Europe, we visit cathedrals and museums, look for the restaurants where the locals dine, all in an attempt to capture the "real" feeling of the place we're visiting. Why not take in a football game? Cheer the local team and watch the fans who're doing the same. Attend a concert by a local band. I never thought I'd find myself at a Chicago Hip-Hop show, even less that I would find myself in the flow, head-bobbing along with everyone else.

I came to Chicago to find Chicago. I didn't. There is no Chicago, as a whole, to find. Chicago is everywhere. I visited the museums -- The Art Institute of Chicago twice -- and tried both kinds of pizza; I gorged on Chicago dogs; I rode the L; I drank a Chicago Handshake and lived to tell the tale. No single experience told me anything more about the multi-monikered city than I could have read in a book. What told me the most, however, were the Uber and Taxi drivers who lived in the city for 20+ years and who spoke of Chicago with honest pride. Sure, some parts of the city can be tough. In February and March, the wind blowing off the lake feels like it can freeze the flesh off your skeleton. Things are getting expensive and gentrification is robbing the Black community of much of its history and place. Despite that, people get along, tough it out, and find a home in the city that is anything but second.

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PARTICULARS

  • Chicago's location makes it about an equidistant trip from both coasts. I flew round-trip from Seattle on Alaska for about $400. Flight time to the city is about 3.5 hours (and a 20-minute taxi to the gate); return is just shy of a half-hour longer.

The traffic in Chicago is absolutely epically bad and parking spaces are so rare that they're featured in museums. Do NOT rent a car! Uber is cheap (compared to Seattle, at any rate), and while taxis are a bit more expensive, they're not obscenely so. Talking to the drivers was one of the highlights of our trip: we didn't run into a single one who hadn't been living in the city for less than 20 years. Their stories and insights were fantastic.

The "L", Chicago's version of the subway, is only $5 and takes you pretty much anywhere you want to go. Certain lines run 24/7.

  • My wife and I stayed in the Lincoln Park area, specifically at the Villa d Citta B&B (2230 N. Halsted St.) I found this B&B to be wonderfully European in size and atmosphere; our room would be perfectly at home in a Paris hotel. The neighborhood is collegiate, singularly safe, and lined with trendy restaurants and bars. We particularly enjoyed the tapas at Cafe Ba-Ba Reeba and the best babaganuosh I've ever tasted at Medi, both located on N. Halsted St.

  • Food? Oh, you like FOOD? Ok, your marching order are:

  1. Chicago Dog: under NO circumstances order ketchup on a hotdog in Chicago. Apparently, it's a sin that'll get you thrown into Lake Michigan.
  2. Tavern-style pizza. You want Pequod's tavern-style. You -really- want Pequod's. If you can't trek out to its northern location, you can always have it delivered.
  3. Deep-Dish pizza. My vote is for Lou Malnati's. Get the classic. Get a personal size. It's enough; trust me. There's locations all over Chicago.
  4. Soul Food: The restaurant Virtue in Hyde Park offers upscale takes on classic Soul Food. The Mac-n-Cheese was so good for being so simple, but the Banana Pudding with Nilla Wafers stole the show.
  • Safety: Full disclosure: I did see what looked like an attack by a gang of youths on someone. This was downtown, a block from the Art Institute, on a street full of people, in broad daylight. I've lived in enough bad neighborhoods to know when to look, and when to get the hell out of there; I did the latter so I don't know how it played out. Other than that, I felt perfectly safe, on the "L", walking around at night, and even at a Hip-Hop show. As I stated before, there's dodgy places in every city in America, but the reputation of Chicago as a dangerous, crime-ridden city is, in my opinion, totally wrong.

  • Weather: Oddly, it was really warm for late September, an observation that seemed a common topic of conversation. Our Uber/Taxi sages recommended staying away in winter, and during the months of February and March when the wind off the lake can flash-freeze unwary tourists in their tracks. Summers are apparently humid and hot,so I feel I hit the sweet-spot for weather by going in early fall.

  • Would I go again: YES! The Chicago I encountered was vibrant, fascinating, welcoming and inexpensive. I feel like I found a hidden gem.

-- Mike Beebe

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2485 posts

Interestingly, Mike, I had somewhat the same reaction to a proposed visit to Seattle. Okay, I'm female and older, but people told me to scratch my plan. I don't know how to enter a link so, if you're interested, put Seattle Janet in the search box.