Canadian Rockies

I am not the person to give advice but I will tell you of arriving in Banff to find.a moose just a few feet away and being quickly told to back away slowly— lest I be seen as competition for a female moose.

I daresay I am not as fetching to a moose but nonetheless I did not quibble with that warning.

Happy travels.

David - Love your reply, and I hope to see a moose, but will be sure to keep distance! We just went to Grand Teton and Yellowstone and saw some great Elk, but no moose sighting.

When are you planning on coming, and how much time do you have? That would impact any suggestions. Also do you have a price range for accomodations?

We've been to Banff twice. Traffic can be really congested. In those circumstances, we find it easier to be right in the town you want to be rather than having to commute into it, or through it every day. There's a hot springs in town worth visiting, as well as one of those blue lakes right there. You can go up the lifts at one of the ski resorts for the view. We went to Lake Louise for hiking, and then on to the glaciers. We did not go to Jasper, but I believe they had a major fire there last year so look into that before committing.

We spent some time in the Canadian Rockies in May of last year. We were doing a road trip so mostly moved from place to place but spent more time in the Banff/Lake Louise area which we really enjoyed. We stayed at Baker Creek by Basecamp, in a lovely cabin at this mountain resort outside of Lake Louise with snow still on the ground in May. When we saw how homey and cozy the cabin was we almost wanted to live there. The property is right on the Bow River with chairs and fire pits along the river. One night we ate at Juniper Bistro in Banff, which is primarily but not exclusively plant-based, delicious and unique. We also had afternoon tea at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. I do not recommend it! It was quite expensive and the sandwiches were soggy on one side and stale on the other, the desserts were scary, neon colors with no explanation of what they were and the scones were mediocre. The service was poor. We had afternoon tea at the Empress Hotel in Victoria the week before and even if the Fairmont was half way decent it wouldn't have come close to our Empress experience. Lesson learned. We wanted to go up to Jasper but it was still a bit icy up that way and it had not recovered from the fires the year before so we skipped it this time. Hope some of this is useful to you.

Canmore is a great alternative as a base. Lots to see nearby and if you like cycling, there is a trail all the way to Banff. Lots of good, interesting restaurants there as well.

Thank you for the tips. Now I’m thinking arriving in Calgary and driving to Canmore - 4 nights, lake Louise 2 nights, Jasper 3 nights? (Not sure is that enough?) 1 night on the Icefields parkway to break up the drive back to Calgary, and spending 1 night by Calgary airport night prior to flight. I’m thinking 11 nights and I’d like to avoid 6 hr drive from Jasper to Calgary. In terms of lodging, I haven't researched rates yet, but I did find Yellowstone lodging was around $400 a night. If I can get nice accommodations under that it would be ideal, but willing to spend more if 1-2 nights (not all 11 days) somewhere high end - I was told staying on Lake Louise at Fairmont was worth it.

JudeK,
It's been 19 years, but when we did a road trip in that area we preferred Jasper to Banff....fewer crowds, more rural and peaceful, and achingly beautiful. I don't know what the fairly recent fires have done to it, but I hope it is recovering well. Jasper is wonderful!

Calgary is a great city to live but it's not really a destination city. It's an airport to get to the national parks. If you do decide to stay for a night or two, a daytrip NE of the city to the Royal Tyrrell Museum may be worthwhile. https://www.tyrrellmuseum.com/front

When are you going? Hotel sticker shock in the summer is real. A hotel we like goes for $150 in early spring can be $600 in the summer. As for Banff or Canmore, there are advantages to both, but Banff is more convenient and their are some outstanding restaurants. Driving the Icefields Parkway to Jasper is a must-see to me. I'd rank it up there with the Pacific Coast Highway and the Amalfi Coast for jaw dropping beauty. Definitely stay a few days in Jasper as there are plenty of hikes and trails to explore. The skytram is worth it to get you to the top of the world with outstanding views. https://www.skytramjasper.com/

You'll need to plan ahead in the summer, you won't be able to drive to Lake Louise and you'll need to park nearby and reserve a shuttle to it and Moraine Lake. You'll also want to make plenty of stops on the way to Jasper including Peyto Lake.

We have been up there a handful of times, with the first time being our honeymoon 36 years ago. On that first trip, we stumbled upon Baker Creek, which was mentioned earlier, and that was way back when it was just 6 cabins or so. We loved it!!!! We have returned several times and while it is nice, the place is much larger now, higher end, and with prices to match. I would still recommend it, it's just hard to compare it to our first visit. We have always seen quite a few moose right around that property and along the Bow Valley Parkway.

If you like to hike, the Lake Agnes Tea House, the Big Beehive, and Plain of 6 Glaciers is a wonderful route. We also enjoyed going up to the ink pots at Johnston Canyon.

Banff Springs Hotel is beautiful and we did stay there one night on our honeymoon. Yes it was years ago, but the building is still the same and so pretty.

The hot spring pool in town that was mentioned was also something we have enjoyed.

Also the tour to the Columbia Icefield was a lot of fun and very interesting.

We had our travel trailer and stayed 3 nights at Banff, 3 at Lake Louise and 3 at Jasper (it wasn't too much).

I would make the drive to Jasper and stop at the Athabasca Glacier. We took the short walk to the toe of the glacier walking past the marker posts showing past glacier positions and how much it has receded:(

I don't know when you are going, but our September trip had lots of snow. It was just the right temperature that the snow melted as it landed on my puffer, and I was drenched by the time I got to the Lake Agnes Tea House.

It's one of the busiest places we've visited, but also one of the most beautiful!

I was planning on traveling mid to late Sept. when I recently went to Yellowstone, many things were closed by the end of Sept. Is there a date in the Canadian Rockies that I should be aware that things close? Particularly roads due to potential weather?
I’d like to break up drive from Jasper to Calgary, and was thinking a stay on Icefields highway may be good. Any suggestions?

Doubtful anything will be closed that early, especially between Lake Louise and Canmore which will be gearing up for ski season. The weather will still be good but snow can happen anytime; especially on the Icefields Parkway. Currently part of it is closed until tomorrow because of heavy snow. I don't recall any hotels along that highway, most will be at the beginning near Lake Louise and at the end in Jasper.

We spent a week in the Canadian Rockies last July. I planned the trip in March, which was on the late side. I was surprised by how pricey lodging was, even in Calgary (we were not there during the Stampede). Lake Louise was too expensive so we skipped it.

We really liked Jasper. We were there 3 nights. The damage from the fire did not affect us as tourists. We did one short hike in the fire area. There were still a number of trails that were closed, but plenty to do in areas not hit by the fire.

We stayed in Canmore (2 nights) which had nice places to eat and good access to hikes. We spent one night in Banff and two nights in Golden.

We drove from Calgary to Jasper in one day. It took most the day, we stopped a lot, the scenery was absolutely gorgeous.

I’ll be flying RT from Calgary. Is there any place that I can break up 6hr drive from Jasper to Calgary? Any recommendation on most efficient route to keep driving distance under 3.5hrs while visiting Banff/Canmore, Lake Louise, Jasper, Icefields parkway? I have no preference of order, just want to find a way to loop back if possible. Thank you!

Eef - Do you have any hotel recommendations? Did any of them have kitchens?

Jude, here is a somewhat rarefied tip about that Lk. Louise area: Lk. O'Hara. That wonderful lake and its upper tarns is one of our own all-time Great Travel Memories. As one travel writing couple once put it, the lake is: "A perfect microcosm of all the best that the Rockies have to offer."
Boy were they ever right!

The lake is located within BC's Yoho park, just across the Alberta border. Visitors cannot just show up. One must first apply to the government months ahead to hope to be selected for a spot on the lone shuttle (ours was an old hippie schoolbus) that ferries folks up to the actual lake. There is very limited lodging up there as well.

But as a daytrip, it is incredible. World-class hiking. Of the 5 or 6 trails that ascend from Lk. O'Hara through different ecosystems there, the Lake Oesa (Cree 'ice') remains the most popular. Lake Oesa itself remains ice-bound for most of the year and makes a great goal to reach for.
This is also full-on grizzly country and at any given time, park staff will post warning signs about no-go areas.

Good luck.
I am done. the Canuck

Is there any place that I can break up 6hr drive from Jasper to
Calgary?

The Icefield Parkway to Lake Louise is about 3 hours, so you could juggle your itinerary to stay in Banff/Canmore on the 1st leg and Lake Louise on the 2nd. Lake Louise to YYC airport is about 2.5 hours.

I was planning on traveling mid to late Sept. when I recently went to Yellowstone, many things were closed by the end of Sept. Is there a date in the Canadian Rockies that I should be aware that things close? Particularly roads due to potential weather?

We were there 9/12 - 9/22 in 2018 and there was one day the Icefields Parkway was closed for weather. We had measurable snow almost every morning and the temperature got down to 22 degrees F. We've been to Yellowstone the same week in September and everything was busier in the Canadian Rockies.

I don't know if there are any kitchens in the cabins, but I liked the looks and location of the Johnson Canyon Bungalows. In Jasper, Alpine Village caught my eye. I'm not sure how their rebuilding is going since the fire a couple years ago.

I would do the Icefields Parkway both ways since you can't count on clear skies everyday (we were clouded in more days than not.

Allan - Following up on this. I’m trying to include Jasper and that seems to be a distance from Calgary. Do you have a recommendation on how to work that in?
Calgary, Alberta, Canada

Is there any place that I can break up 6hr drive from Jasper to
Calgary?
The Icefield Parkway to Lake Louise is about 3 hours, so you could juggle your itinerary to stay in Banff/Canmore on the 1st leg and Lake Louise on the 2nd. Lake Louise to YYC airport is about 2.5 hours.
Jump to top

JudeK, Jasper simply takes a long time to get to. I can't speak for tourists, but most people I know that live in Calgary or Edmonton will make multiple stops along the Parkway for short hikes or sightseeing. Our last two week-long trips we spent a few days in Banff before heading to Jasper. We make the trip to Jasper a day-long event with stops at places like Peyto Lake, Athabasca Glacier, Sunwapta Falls and Athbasca Falls. You could do that on the way to or from Jasper. To break it up further you could do an overnight stay in Lake Louise on your way back to Calgary instead of including it on your Banff days.

Day 1 drive to Banff.
Day 2 Banff
Day 3 Banff, or add a day in Jasper instead.
Day 4 to Jasper
Day 5 Jasper
Day 6 Jasper to Lake Louise
Day 7 Lake Louise
Day 8 Calgary

We did this trip last July. We spent the first night at an airport hotel and drove early the next morning to Jasper. We did 4 nights in jasper, 3 nights in Banff and then went to Glacier NP in Montana and Waterton NP in Canada.

In Jasper we stayed at Patricia Lake Bungalows and we highly recommend. We had a small cabin with a kitchen and separate bedroom. We did a lot of hiking in Jasper. Took a boat cruise on Maligne Lake, drove to Miette Hot Springs to swim, canoed and swam at Patricia Lake. We liked Jasper better than Banff. Banff was too crowded and expensive.

The Icefield Parkway was a highlight for us. We drove from Calgary to Jasper on our first full day and stopped at Peyto Lake on the way. We had stopped in Canmore and bought picnic food. Then we stopped for some viewpoints of which there are many. On one of our days in jasper we drove to Sunwapta Falls and Athabasca Falls and hiked at Wilcox. On our way from Jasper to Banff, we stopped at Columbia Icefields and hiked.

Lake Louise is also crowded. I don't think I'd bother moving from LL to Banff. Just stay in one of the other. They are close together. You will need to make shuttle reservations to go to Moraine Lake. Do that as soon as they open up. You can't drive in. I saw many many disappointed people who couldn't get on a shuttle. Sold out. You will probably need to do the same for Lake Louise. Parking is limited.

We stayed at the Otter Hotel in Banff. It's a new hotel on the outskirts of town. We liked it, but it was very expensive I think over $600/niight. But they had wonderful hot pools on the roof. And you get a bus pass. Driving in Banff is congested and awful. We walked and used the bus. We had some good meals in Banff at Lupo, the Bluebird, Park Distillery.

If I ever went back, I would stay at Emerald Lake lodge near Emerald Lake. I don't think I'd go back to Banff, but I would go back to Jasper.

Have a wonderful trip!

My knowledge anymore is essentially non-existent, but I fondly remember a January 1998 trip to Banff as one of the best vacations I've had in 40+ years of travel. The Banff Springs Hotel was amazing in every way. Have a great trip. The Canadian Rockies are extraordinary.

Mary--We stayed at Emerald Lake Lodge on our honeymoon. It was beautiful, and awe had a stunning view. That was ages ago, but I would love to go back to that one.

JudeK,
Put me in the Jasper camp. We also stayed at Emerald Lake, in one of the well-appointed cabins (not with a kitchen). It was beautiful and peaceful and magical. I hope the recovery from the fire is progressing well.

Thank you all, these comments are super helpful. I’m compiling all these notes and recommendations. We may be switching our timing from Sept to early June. I know that gives us less planning time and I am concerned about the rain. I welcome any updates based on the June timing.

I grew up in Edmonton and we went for holidays to Jasper every year, either camping or to the rustic cabins at Pine Bungalows. When I married, my husband and I camped every May, June and September in Jasper.

I agree with Allen. The Icefields Parkway shouldn’t be missed. It is spectacular. Everything he suggests is beautiful and his itinerary sounds perfect.

My sister has a home on Lake Edith in Jasper, and she said things are getting back to normal, but the fire certainly devastated the Jasper community.

My preference is early September. There will still be crowds…there are ALWAYS crowds, but Jasper is less crowded than Banff. I also agree that you should stay in Banff and not have to drive from Canmore every day that you’re in the area.

You will have a fantastic trip in our Canadian Rockies. Please send in a trip report on your return.

I’ve been twice, and I think the Canadian Rockies region is one of the most beautiful places in the world. It’s been too long ago for me to provide much that will be helpful, but my favorite memories are canoeing on Emerald Lake and hiking to the tea houses. Have a wonderful trip!

I wish I could reply to each of you. ALL comments are helpful and have gotten me excited!

I grew up in Edmonton and live in Calgary. Banff is a 1-hour drive from my door, and I've spent a lot of time there over the years.

People are correct that Banff is much busier than Jasper. However, as a town, I think Banff is also a LOT prettier than Jasper (even before the fire). The Banff-Jasper highway is gorgeous, though.

The weather in September is usually decent, but as others have mentioned, snow can happen around here any time of year, especially at higher elevations, and the weather at the Columbia Ice Fields is always changeable. Nights WILL be chilly in the mountains, even if the days are warm.

I like Canmore, but if I were visiting for the iconic Rocky Mountain experience, I'd stay in Banff. There are condos along Tunnel Mountain that have kitchenettes, although it's a bit of a climb up and down into the main townsite from there. Of these, I like Hidden Ridge Resort. It has chalet-style units with kitchenettes and fireplaces. https://banffhiddenridge.com I've also stayed at the Banff Centre a couple of times, as I prefer to be away from the crowds of Banff Avenue. https://www.banffcentre.ca/hotels

If you want to be a bit more rural, the cabins at Johnstone's Canyon are rustic and scenic. (It's also partway between Banff and Lake Louise, so is fairly convenient for both.) https://johnstoncanyon.com There are some great hikes there, although the canyon trail can be busy.

I've also stayed at the Juniper Hotel once, for a conference, and it was comfortable. It might be a bit less expensive because it's just outside of the townsite, but it's an easy walk or drive into town. https://thejuniper.com

Note that it is highly unlikely that you will see a moose in Banff, although you are almost certain to see elk, and the bulls are very large. September is getting into rutting season, so give them lots of space. You'll likely also see deer if you are on Tunnel Mountain. Richardson's Ground Squirrels are pretty common around Banff, too. Even if you don't stay on Tunnel Mountain, drive around it. There is a stop there where you can see hoodoos, and another where you get a great view of the Banff Springs Hotel--one of the iconic CN Railway hotels in Canada.

You may also see a bear in the Banff area, although that is never guaranteed. A nice drive is the Minnewanka Loop, and there are several little lakes to stop at along there. (There is no lake right in Banff townsite, although there is a river.) We saw a grizzly there once, although that was in the spring when there is less food at higher elevations. We often see mountain goats and bighorn sheep there.

There are nice pathways to walk along either side of the river, and some sights include Bow Falls, the Cave and Basin historic site, and the Marsh Loop Trail. Also, near the national park buildings there are gardens with gazebos and little waterfalls. There used to be a lot of flowers planted here, but I think that’s been discontinued. It’s still a nice spot, though, and in fall, you’re likely to see cute little chipmunks gathering seeds for the winter.

Unfortunately, it's true that everything is crazy busy, and reservations are necessary to visit Lake Louise and Moraine Lake.

The Sulphur Mountain Hot Springs are also worth a visit, and, on a clear day, the cablecar up Sulphur Mountain gives you wonderful views of the surrounding mountains and townsite.

Castle Mountain is a favourite sight for many, including me, and it truly is spectacular. You'll find it between Banff and Lake Louise, near the turnoff to Radium Hotsprings/Highway 93. There are a few places to stop and take in the view.

As mentioned, Emerald Lake is lovely, and there's a nice, easy hike around it. It's extremely pricey to stay there, though--even moreso than most places in Banff.

A favourite stop of mine, although it's a wee bit out of the way, is Takakkaw Falls. This is one of Canada's highest falls. https://www.banfflakelouise.com/experiences

Between Banff and Jasper, besides the Icefields, Athabasca Falls and Sunwapta Falls are nice stops. Peyto Lake is another. (It's a pretty colour, and it's shaped a little bit like an angel.)

As a kid, I almost always saw black bears around Jasper. However, people were stupid in those days and would feed them. It's less common to see them now, but they are definitely in the area. When I stay in Jasper, I like to stay at the Sawridge in the townsite (now called the Forest Park Hotel, I just learned): https://www.sawridge.com/our-hotels/jasper/ But I actually prefer to stay near Miette Hot Springs, although that is a ways out of town. https://parks.canada.ca/pn-np/ab/jasper/sources-miette-springs It's been a while, so I can't vouch for what they're like, but this is an option with kitchenettes: https://miettebungalows.com Mountain goats and sometimes bears are common sights in that area, also.

As for places to stay on your drive back to Calgary, there are a couple of options. If you come back through the Icefields, there is accommodation there, although I imagine it’s pricey: https://www.banffjaspercollection.com/hotels/glacier-view-lodge/ Saskatchewan River Crossing is another option: https://www.thecrossingresort.com Alternatively, you could stay in Edmonton and then continue to Calgary via Highway 2 (the QEII), but that wouldn’t be my choice if seeing the mountains were my main goal. Another option, if you haven’t booked your flights yet, would be to fly out of Edmonton at the end of your trip.

Anyway, whatever you decide, I hope you have a lovely trip and enjoy yourself in my beautiful back yard.