Please sign in to post.

Austin, TX?

Looking at a visit to Austin this winter for something different and to enjoy some music, and kept reading "seedy," "unsafe," "homeless out of control" comments in the Austin hotel reviews, specifically in the famous Red River entertainment district. This article seems to sum up the concerns https://www.austinchronicle.com/news/2017-02-03/red-river-clubs-grapple-with-downtown-homelessness/

Also dropping in Google Streetview the Red River area seems to be dumpy and lack character or visual charm (like say New Orleans).

So any comments on visiting Austin?

Posted by
7049 posts

There are a few blocks where there is a large social services building called ARCH which draws homeless people (it's highly concentrated). Nothing unexpected or worth highlighting or getting freaked about (unless you've never seen a large homeless population before). It's just like any other large city. Of course the folks staying in high end hotels practically next door would be shocked, but it's part of the urban fabric. I wouldn't use the word "charming" to describe any downtown, including Austin (although there is a nice drag on Congress Ave with the old Paramount Theater and other historical buildings leading up to the Texas State Capitol, which is nice). The one thing that does really stand out in Austin is the youthful vibe (50k students at UT Austin). I'm in my 40s and can feel "old" in Austin because there are so many young, college-aged people seemingly everywhere (you'll rarely see many folks in the upper parts of the age distribution, at least out on the streets). There's also an eccentricity about the place and residents that's more like Venice Beach, CA. The music and food scene is great (especially the tacos, have mercy!), as as the greenways for biking and walking (very accessible from downtown). There are funky corridors like South Congress with thrift stores, hotels, food trucks, etc. The Hill Country outside of Austin is beautiful and scenic, one of my favorite places in the US.

I think Austin is great and worth checking out. But not if you're looking for a cultural scene like Houston or Dallas with museums, symphonies, etc. The Umlauf Sculpture Garden is a real gem in Zilker Park. If for some reason Austin isn't to your liking, you can easily drive out to see the Hill Country towns. You really can't go wrong by giving it a chance. The hotels downtown are insanely expensive during busy months (like during SXSW in March or Austin City Limits in October) , and there always seem to be festivals and events going most of the year. That's what makes Austin "Austin" - the annual events, music, film festivals, other performances, etc. I stayed downtown for work several years ago and then slightly outside of Austin for leisure trips (can't stomach paying north of $300 for a hotel).

This is a very good planning resource: https://www.austintexas.org

Posted by
472 posts

Blanton Museum of Art on the University of Texas campus, Cathedral of Junk in a backyard (think Watts Towers), the state capital building, serious & wonderful barbecue, greenbelt park along the river for strolls/runs/kayaking, the mothership of Whole Foods,
the hill country out of town. Look at a guidebook/site. Over New Year's there's a great homegrown artsy parade & First Night events.

Posted by
3245 posts

I live in Austin. The Red River area is not the main music place in downtown. I have gone to shows there and felt safe enough, but I wouldn't "close the bar" there or on 6th Street either.

If you go, I highly recommend Esther's Follies. And no, I've never tasted Franklin Barbecue.

I love living in Austin, but as a tourist destination I think it's overrated. You might be happier in San Antonio.

Posted by
4517 posts

I had found the Salvation Army but now see that ARCH is on the same block, right by 3 or 4 high rise hotels. So if staying on points and price is not a factor, what is a better place to stay that's walkable to things? Why has BA started nonstop London flights if there's not a lot for tourists to do?

The American "Homeless Problem" is a lot like the "Crime Problem," people say it's everywhere, but it isn't out of control (or even noticeable) everywhere.

Posted by
308 posts

I lived in Austin for 8 years and was always fascinated by how seriously the locals take the food and music culture. I would highly recommend combining a visit to Austin with San Antonio and the Hill Country. A visit to the State Capitol and Bullock history museum is worthwhile. It is intriguing to think of how many national flags have flown over Texas.

I read through the article in the link, and it made me think of my recent visits to downtown Denver and San Antonio, and my personal observations of homeless populations in those two cities.

Posted by
4517 posts

how seriously the locals take the food

Albuquerque also has this quality

This would just be a weekend, not enough time for more. This would be my first visit to Texas, my 47th visited state.

Posted by
7049 posts

If all you have is literally one weekend (2-3 day max) then just stay and see Austin. That's not enough time to rope in the Hill Country unless you want a really rushed experience (personally I'd wait until I had enough time to do both, and that requires about 5 days). The airport is very close to downtown and you can walk around everywhere, you won't need a car if you keep your visit to Austin. There are direct flights from London because Austin City Limits and other festivals draw thousands of people, including overseas. Same with SXSW. Austin branding has obviously worked because it punches above its weight.

The Driskill is a nice hotel, very centrally located. There are some funky ones on South Congress Avenue like Hotel San Jose. And of course there are plenty of very expensive business hotels right downtown.

Posted by
5261 posts

I enjoyed a weekend in Austin. It's not much to look at and we didn't really seek out what was on offer in respect of museums, sights etc as we were there mainly to eat barbecue and experience the music scene. Didn't try Franklin but chose instead to head out to Black's in Lockhart.

Had two great nights on 6th Street, didn't feel unsafe but I rarely do anywhere however I can imagine some of the atmosphere could be intimidating to some. I experienced quite a bit of casual racism, not against me but confided in as some sort of conspiratorial "you're a white guy, you'll agree with me" way, even from a police officer which I found quite shameful.

The food scene is very good likewise the nightlife. It's a predominantly young crowd but the over 40's certainly weren't underrepresented. I couldn't imagine spending more than a weekend there though

Posted by
2261 posts

Highly recommended. The Texas State Capitol is a beautiful building, they offer free tours and we found it very worthwhile. I spent several minutes just looking at the custom door hinges.

If you're into "outlaw country" music do try to catch Dale Watson, he's always playing around Austin when he's not elsewhere in the country or Europe. We managed to catch him at the White Horse for a midnight show a couple years back, it was a blast.

https://www.dalewatson.com/

I thought the LBJ Presidential Library, at UT, was exceptional.

Best Mexican food we found was at Habanero:
https://www.yelp.com/biz/habanero-mexican-cafe-austin

The reviews about the homelessness issue remind me of the migrant issue in Europe, most people recognize it doesn't spell danger for a tourist, it's just one of several factors to be aware of in most any big city visit.

Posted by
4517 posts

OK, coming to grips with the central layout of Austin a bit. It's not like central Nashville with it's simple L-shaped entertainment district that's safe and in its own way charming, the venues here seem more spread out. 6th St. seems to offer more for tourists than Red River St., and I see now that some big hotels are on the "wrong" side of the homeless rectangle mentioned in the linked article above, so one staying in one of those hotels has to transit back and forth thru basically skid row to get to what's on 6th St.

Also it appears that the arboretum is not a botanical garden but a shopping mall?

I don't care for sweet meat, so if there is a restaurant that serves barbecue that's not too sweet I'll try it.

Posted by
3245 posts

Yes, the Arboretum is a shopping mall. If you stay downtown, you can walk to the University of Texas, which has a number of sights. The free Ransom Center has a Gutenberg Bible, the first photograph, and rotating exhibits from the school's massive collection of stuff.

Posted by
7837 posts

I have gone there last 3 years for a Librarian's convention. I usually stay down by the Capitol building at the La Quinta Downtown close to the University Campus. You notice the homeless unfortunately at night by the club area 6th street and Trinity and Congress and under the Interregional highway which I ran into by accident. I use to work in the music industry for Virgin Records back in the late 90's Chicago and attending Austin SXSW was a hip thing to do; I never did; now It seems like a lot of people went down there trying to launch a musician career but ended up homeless. When I first went 3 years ago I felt too old at 47 and the Austin motto "Welcome to the Live Music Capitol of the World" that you will see exiting the plane on the jet bridge seems really bogus, it makes my eyes roll (if you've ever been to Chicago). Sorry that Red River area feels touristy. I hope you don't but you will know that when it costs 5 dollars for a slice pizza that they have to heat up. Finally you can not help but watch your back on the way back to the hotel so don't walk if you feel vulnerable after a couple of brewskies

Why has BA started nonstop London flights if there's not a lot for tourists to do?

That is probably convention business as there is SXSW Music and SXSW Film.
There is usually a tech convention right after the convention I attend every year.

Posted by
4517 posts

It is intriguing to think of how many national flags have flown over Texas.

Just saw this, I think the answer is 6? I believe for Minnesota it’s 4 flags, since the Louisiana Purchase was Spanish for a while, and what is east of the Mississippi was first French then British, with Lake Superior communities governed from British Montreal from 1760-1800. If that interests anyone.

Posted by
5261 posts

I don't care for sweet meat, so if there is a restaurant that serves barbecue that's not too sweet I'll try it.

Texan barbecue is not traditonally sweet, with brisket being the meat of preference it is often served without a sauce and typically rubbed only with salt and pepper.A sauce, if offered, is often a thin, savoury and spicy one.

Micklethwait Craft Meats is a good place for authentic Texan barbecue although it does get busy but not as busy as Franklin's.

I haven't tried Black's in Austin but if it's anything like the Black's in Lockhart then you'll be in for a treat.

Posted by
2337 posts

The same is being said about Portland, Oregon (Austin's rival for Keeping It Weird), which has always had a "seedy" element, it has just spread out and impacted the influx of visitors.

That said, there is plenty to do in Austin - I was there for a work conference and spent 2 extra days ahead of the meetings doing touristy things. I second the recommendation to go to the State Capitol - it is open late and they have quite good docent tours. I enjoyed the LBJ presidential library, maybe because it was my first visit to a presidential library but I thought it was well done. Watching the bats come out at Congress Street is quite a spectacle (unless you're afraid of bats). I went to a fun showing of "American in Paris" at the Alamo Drafthouse Ritz (they have all kinds of special events - check the schedule, they also have multiple locations).

Posted by
3245 posts

Agree with JC about Micklethwait Craft Meats. Remember that it is a food truck with picnic tables and a porta potty. The Blacks BBQ in Austin is close to UT and has truly outstanding meat and indoor plumbing. And they offer beef ribs every day. Micklethwait does not.