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A Week in Israel - Insider advice on how to split our time?

Posted by (Stuttgart, Germany) on

Finally biting the bullet and visiting Israel for a week during Sukkot (a holiday that I never get to celebrate properly in Germany due to the weather!) So mid-October.

Being Jewish and having read a fair deal and following loosely Israeli politics I'm not at all unfamiliar with the main sights and regions in Israel, so I'm not so much looking for general advice but instead for any specific tips that people familiar with travel in the region can provide.

We'll have 7 or 8 nights coming from Germany (6 hour flight with a layover) Right now I'm thinking 3 nights Jerusalem, 2 nights Tel Aviv (?) and...??? I've always wanted to visit Haifa, I'm tempted by Eliat. Jewish sites, antiquities, cultural experiences, great food and nightlife, old churches, and museums are our interests. I would really like one beach/seaside day to soak up some vitamin D before the long German winter. Masada and the Dead Sea is a must. I'd like to try to see Petra but may have to save that for another trip.

I don't think we want to rent a car unless it's highly advised - seems getting around by bus and/or tours would be less stressful for us.

Budget tips are also appreciated - I'm having a little sticker shock from hotel prices in Jerusalem and panicked and reserved a flat there for 3 nights that's refundable through September because so many places are already booked up. We're paying about $130/night with a central location so unless our dates change I'll probably stick to that booking.

There's just so much to see and do that I'm having trouble narrowing things down and making the best use of our time. We will return, probably in the spring in a year or two, during which we'll do more of the outdoorsy activities.

Any advice is appreciated! This is our first time traveling outside of Europe in 10 years and our first time going to the middle east.

Posted by
15576 posts

Hi Sarah. I suspect I'm going to be a Debbie Downer and I am sorry for that.

Besides all the tourists, more than half of the country is on vacation for the entire week. Expect all tourist sights and national parks to be full. You are right not to want to drive, parking is virtually impossible to find at any of the sights unless you are among the first to arrive.

$130/night in Jerusalem (I assume that's where it is) is a bargain. Prices in Tel Aviv and Haifa are generally lower than J-m and both cities have nice beaches. There are lots of trendy (and not so trendy) bars, cafes and restaurants in and around the beaches in Tel Aviv. My guess is that Haifa's about the same.

Look at the Israeli hostels. It looks like there may still be openings in the north - the one in Haifa is not very near the center but there should be bus and taxi service. The double rooms are equivalent to a 2-star hotel, basic but with good amenities (room-controlled AC, electric kettle, tv, wifi, good breakfast). I didn't look at the location in Akko (Acre). If it's central, I'd consider that instead of Haifa - there's tons to see and do in Akko, it's one of my faves.

Your best option for Masada/Dead Sea is a big bus tour. There will be lots of crowds everywhere and probably long lines for the cable car and the cafe at Massada. Look at Abraham Hostel in Jerusalem - they may have tours there during Succot.

Forget Eilat and Petra, much too far for a short trip. For your next one here, plan to come in February or March - it's springtime here, wildflowers, mild weather, low season prices.

I avoid public places during Succot. I either plan to be out of the country, or I visit friends. On the bright side, you'll see lots and lots of succahs, some of them very creative.

Posted by
8293 posts

What would we do without Chani’s on-the-ground information about Israel. She is a treasure. I hope the Rick Steves Office have taken note and are appreciative.

Posted by
3049 posts

Thanks for the advice, Chani! I was told by some people I was giving a tour to in Germany that Sukkot is a massively crowded time to visit.

My husband's leave is already set in stone for Oct 13-21. Do you think it's so crowded that we'd be better off choosing another location and coming to Israel in the Spring instead? I'm really excited by the idea of going for Sukkot but I also don't want it to be so awful that I'm put off on it all.

Would it make a difference to focus on the two big cities, since presumably people are vacationing elsewhere? Or does it not really make a difference?

Posted by
15576 posts

Well, I think you should come here often :-)

See if you can get affordable rooms in Tel Aviv and possibly Haifa or Acco. You can take the train from Tel Aviv to either or both on a day trip. You can and should buy train tickets in advance since the trains could sell out. Note that the trains stop running on Friday afternoon and start again on Saturday night. There are hourly trains between T-A and Haifa all night. While the beaches will have lots of people, if you go early it will be more peaceful, there may not be that many more than normal and in the evenings it will be pretty much as usual. It's mostly the touristy sights - museums, parks, etc.

In Jerusalem, the Jewish quarter will be very crowded but the rest of the Old City will be "bearable" or just "normal."

In thinking about the crowds, I just remembered being at the Stuttgart Christmas market with you in the evening. Nothing will be that crowded. Do save Masada/Dead Sea for a spring visit. Even in February, the Dead Sea is not icy cold.

I'm thinking seriously about going away then. If it doesn't work out, and I'm in town, I'll let you know.

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