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2 Bogan Aussies, a campervan an the N.I of NZ.

Last year we did a 3 week roadtrip through some of NZ's South Island. A year on and we have just completed a 3 week roadtrip of the North Island.
There is a bit of a trip report I did for the South Island floating around these parts. So I thought I had better do a quick one for the North Island just to be fair.

Monday. Flew out of Melbourne to Auckland, 4 hr flight (2 hr time difference too).
We arrived around 3.30 pm. Cleared through no issues and picked up at about 4.15 by shuttle to take us to the RV Supercentre.
Unfortunately there was a hiccup from the company's end. I won't bore you with the details but it took well over an hour to sort out.
This was a bit of a pain as we had hoped to get down the road a bit the first night. By the time we were on the road it was nearly dark, it was raining and we were hungry. We cut our losses and booked a night at a nearby cheap airport hotel. We picked up some very pleasant takeaway from nearby, bought some milk, bread, butter, jam and cereal and spent a cosy night in the hotel.

Tuesday. After breakfast we were off to a slightly belated start to the roadtrip. We headed toward Thames a former gold mining town and gateway to the Coromandel Peninsula. It was only going to be a lightning visit to the Coromandel. First stop was the Pak n Save to get our supplies. We headed north a short distance to Waiomu. Stopped by the beach for lunch in the van. We then drove to the start of the Waiomu Kauri Grove hiking track. Weather was a bit crap but we had a great couple of hours of forest hiking. Some great Kauri trees.
Nicely damp and cold we pulled into the nearest campground in Te Puru. A bit expensive really (USD36) and not particularly grand. Showers were hot though and although pretty minimalist the cooking facilities were OK.

Wednesday. Still scrappy weather in the morning. Breakfast in the kitchen chatting with a French lass who'd been vanning for 6 months.
We were going to head into a gorge but the wet weather and slippery roads changed our mind so instead headed straight to our planned overnight stop of Te Aroha.
Away from the Coromandel and well inland the weather was improved. Little Te Aroha was a very pleasant surprise. I had only chosen it as a stop because of it's proximity to Hobbiton (we had booked the Hobbiton tour for 1.40 on Thursday).
Te Aroha was in Edwardian times a very popular spa town. Most of the old buildings have been tidied up after years of neglect. This is set on beautiful parkland with Mt Te Aroha as a backdrop.
After a museum visit and a good wander about we had lunch in the van. Then geared up for a nice few hours of hiking up and down Mt Te Aroha.
Great forests with more impressive Kauri. Spotted a few special NZ birds.
After the hike we treated ourselves with a swim and a spa at the thermal baths. 35 deg C for the pool, 38 deg C for the spa. A shower then off to the campground. Cheaper (USD30) than Te Puru and much nicer.
Heavy rain settling in as we settled in for the night.
Next up Hobbiton.
To be continued.

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5292 posts

Yes, I need more! Ha! But I know you are going to make me want to go back because there was so much of the NI I didn’t see.

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495 posts

Thursday. We headed into town (Te Aroha) after breakfast. Just chilling in the park. Did I mention that there is a little geyser in the park just popping away steadily on a regular basis.
Then it was off to Hobbiton.
We had our lunch in the van then checked in at 1.15 for our 1.40 tour.
The tour buses head out every 10 minutes.
We were 1 bus driver, 1 guide (Aussie John) and 24 tourists.
Hobbiton is situated on a working 500 hectare sheep farm, about 13,000 sheep and a few hundred head of Angus cattle.
So the tour starts with a couple of kms of bus trip with plenty of sheep traffic hazards. We disembarked at The Shire village, the movie set. From there our guide walks us through the 5 or 6 hectares of the set with (very) informative commentary. There are more than 40 Hobbit dwellings carved into the hillside. All completed in painstaking detail. Not having watched LOTR or The Hobbit trilogy I wasn't sure what to expect. To me it was like an extraordinary piece of art I was quite shocked at how impressed I was.
With all the clever man made craft in view Mother Nature decided to chime in too. As we reached the highest point of the village a full rainbow extended from one end to the other.
We finish the village tour with a visit inside a Hobbit house. The craftsmanship to create the Hobbit house was something else.
From there we went past a mill over an arched stone bridge and into the Green Dragon pub for our farewell drink (ciders for us). Back to the bus with some movie highlights on the screen.

My wife who is a Tolkien fan was never going to not love it. Me, well I thought it was brilliant. Yep it is pricey (by our frugal standards) at USD70 each. But I thoroughly enjoyed the experience.
So really I think money well spent.

Back in the van after the tour and off to Rotorua.
We have both been to Rotorua before (×2 for me) and seen a number of the main tourist sights. There are many big ticket tourist sights but all are pretty expensive. Our plan was to check out some of the free/cheap sights that might not have big crowds.
First task was to find an affordable campground, no easy task. We accidentally turned up at the "wrong one" on the same street as one we had googled. Turns out they had a Thursday special going 15 bucks cheaper than next door. They gave me a discount on our 2d night too. It was a really nice campground and provided good opportunities to socialise.

Friday..
After a leisurely breakfast and morning stroll we headed out to Kuirau Park in the centre of town. It has lots of thermal areas (all free), plenty of birdlife (we love our birds) and even a natural thermal foot spa. A pretty cool park. Then across town to the Government Gardens. Unfortunately the magnificent Museum building is closed for seismic strengthening works and quite a lot was scaffolded. We were still able to get a good look at parts of it. It is one of the most impressive buildings in NZ. We walked along the nearby thermal lake/bird sanctuary then back to Kuirau Park. A nice long soak in the foot spa then back to the van for lunch.
After lunch we were off to Kerosene Creek and Rainbow Mountain.
Kerosene Creek is off a rough old road flowing through beautiful forest. It is 38 deg C (100+F). There were a grand total of 10 people there. We found ourselves a private pool just below fast flowing rapids. Alternating soaking in the pool or getting massaged by the steamy hot rapids in an idyllic setting and being entertained by a variety of birds. Could've stayed in there for hours.
But we did drag ourselves out. Got dried and changed then drove the short distance to Rainbow Mountain/Crater Lake.

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We did a fairly short hike on Rainbow Mountain. It is well named as the geothermal activity has left it streaked with a variety of colours. Some great views along the hike particularly of brightly coloured Crater Lake. Plenty of interesting fungi to check out and a very vocal male Tui bird trying to impress his girlfriend.
Saturday.
We headed out of town to Whakarewarewa Forest for a hike in it's Redwood Plantation. We both love trees particularly big trees. The Redwoods were super impressive.
Then it was off to Craters of the Moon. It is a large geothermal area managed by the Dept of Conservation. As such it has only a minimal entry fee $USD6 per person. It's a few kms of walking with numerous steam vents bubbling mud pools etc. High on the walk it also offers good views across to the Tongariro mountains. With only a dozen other visitors we could go slow relax and really enjoy the experience.
Lunch in the van. Then a 4 min drive to thunderous (and very crowded) Huka Falls.
Then off around Lake Taupo. Lake Taupo was formed by a massive climate changing eruption.
Then onto the Tongariro.
We pulled into Whakapapa Campground on the slopes of active Mt Ruapehu.
A great site for the van in a forest setting about 30 metres above a fast flowing stream and with views of the top of Mt Ruapehu.
Excellent facilities. After dinner we had a fun evening playing scrabble with a young Spanish couple. A bit of a late one.
A chilly night. Glad we brought the hot water bottle.

Sunday.
I was up before the Sun. A quicI check of our Fed election results. A whitewash win for the incumbent Government. Our richest person had said that the opposition leader was the Trump like leader we needed. Apparently most Aussies didn't agree. He even lost his seat in Parliament.
No political opinions being voiced here but I did have an extra spring in my step all day.
It was a day of small hikes.
Tawhia Falls first. This actually features in the Hobbit movie. Then a walk through forest on the other side of that fast flowing stream below our van. I am sure the hiking would bore many of you but we love it and we love all the unusual plants and fungi and birds.
After lunch we did a bit of a longer hike a circuit out past the impressive Taranaki Falls.
That evening we caught up with our Spanish pals for multiple games of Yahzee.
Another late one and another cold night.
To be continued.

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12502 posts

Bogan is Australian and New Zealand slang for a person whose speech, clothing, attitude and behaviour are considered unrefined or unsophisticated. Depending on the context, the term can be pejorative or self-deprecating.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bogan

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495 posts

2 things I haven't mentioned about Whakapapa and our hiking. One is the Chateau Tongariro. Built in 1929 it is an impressive structure with Mt Ruapehu as a backdrop. Unfortunately it is closed indefinitely due to structural integrity issues caused by seismic activity. It is on the flank of an active volcano.
The other is Mt Ngaurahoe. This mountain is a near perfect volcanic cone. I think it is the 3d highest on the North Island behind Mt Ruapehu and Mt Taranaki. It is the scene stealer on most hikes from Whakapapa. The Taranaki Falls hike takes you pretty close to it. And of course Peter Jackson couldn't resist using it in The Lord of the Rings and Hobbit movies.

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Monday week two.
One more hike before leaving Whakapapa. The Silica Rapids Circuit.
A really enjoyable hike. Great views of Mt Ruapehu, Mt Ngaurahoe and Mt Tongariro. The rapids are cream coloured from silica and aluminium.
Then we headed south, off to Whanganui.
We had a brief stop at the 120 year old 80 metre high, 260 metre long Makapote Viaduct. I was a minute too late to get a great photo of the train crossing it.
A longish uneventful drive through some very rugged country.
A brief refuel in Whanganui then onto tiny Kai Iwi.
A cheap but quite lovely campground next to a very nice black sand surf beach situated under cliffs.
Tuesday.
First stop Patea Beach just for a leg stretch but it turned out to be more than that.
The SS Waitangi had wrecked here in 1923. I knew that but didn't realise the wreck would be sitting half way up the beach. It was in surprisingly good order all things considered. We had the beach and the wreck all to ourselves.
It took a good while to drag ourselves away from there.
That whole beach area had a really interesting history and plenty of traces of it still present.
We eventually got on our way. Our target was very visible the mighty Maunga Taranaki straight ahead doing a great impersonation of Mt Fuji.
We settled into a very cheap beachside campground in Waitara about 15 kms from New Plymouth. Might've been cheap but it did have the million dollar view.
Wednesday.
There was one must do for me for this trip and that was to do a decent bit of hiking on Mt Taranaki. It's a long story that goes back 42 years. Not too interesting to anyone but me.
So off we went up to the North Egmont Visitors Centre on the flank of the mountain.
We chose the quite rugged Maketawa Hut Circuit.
It was a perfect choice. The first section although very rugged is through extraordinarily beautiful "spooky" forest. Up past the hut the clouds cleared off completely and we had the perfect view of the perfect snowy mountain. The last few kms has a seat at every switchback to sit and gaze back up at the mountain.
We had a cheat day food wise. We were well past lunchtime and pretty hungry so headed into New Plymouth for take away.
Thursday.
An interesting drive out from Waitara over Mt Messanger. There is a very interesting feat of engineering going on to build a bypass. It looked fascinating and I was able to find out all about it later at a small museum in Mokau.
But for now our first sightseeing venture would need luck with the tides.
We pulled off the highway at Tongaporutu and were in luck, the tide was out.
Changed into our surf shoes and headed off along the mudflats for about a km to the 3 Sisters and Elephant Rock. These are sea stacks but at low tide you can just wander up to them on foot. 2 of the stacks are about 25 metres high. There are an assortment of other shorter stacks and big Elephant Rock. Caves to wander through. Just a brilliant spot.
Further up the road we stopped at Mokau and visited it's little but fascinating museum. I love these little local museums.
The weather was turning so after the museum we hightailed it to our next overnight in Otorohanga.
To be continued.

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Friday.
Heavy rain forecast
We spent the morning at the Otorohanga Kiwi House checking out kiwi business.
After lunch we headed north toward Auckland in very heavy rain. No more sightseeing today.
We pulled up stumps in the town of Huntly and hour south of Auckland.
Saturday.
Most of the day was spent out at beautiful black sand Piha ocean beach tucked away in hilly forests west of Auckland.
We caught up with my son in law's uncle for dinner and stayed there overnight.
Sunday.
Late start. Another beach visit this time Muriwai. Both of these beaches are stunning locations.
We also stopped at Waitangi waterfall at Omeru as we headed up the North West Coast.
Our stop for the night was at a charming little place called Matakohe.
Monday week three.
We headed north to the town of Dargaville then east to the major Northern city of Whangarei.
We visited the impressive Whangarei Falls.
From there we headed north to the Bay of Islands and the beautiful little seaside town of Paihia.
We booked in to a charming seaside campground for 3 nights.
To be continued.

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5292 posts

Loving following the journey. Like your wife , I have been a Lord of the Rings fan for forever - besides New Zealand’s scenery, the best part of the movies was how well they followed the books. So visiting Hobbiton was a dream.

At the end of your journey, I would like to hear thoughts comparing North Island and South Island.

I am pretty sure a campervan journey there is not a wise move for me at this point in life, but I wish I could do it!

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Tuesday week 3.
Paihia.
The campground intersected a walking trail along cliffs above the sea. I got up at dawn for a trot along the trail and a very refreshing dip in the sea.
After breakfast we drove into town and did a short section of a major track to a great view over the town and across the bay.
Back in town then up the road to Hururu Falls then a bit further north to the town of Kerikeri.
Kerikeri was the sight of an old mission and there are several interesting old buildings and even a 200 year old pear tree, certainly the oldest pear tree in NZ. There was a very significant Pa (fortified village) overlooking the mission and the bend of the river. No structures remain, only traces of the earthworks.
All of that is in a beautiful park like setting on the river.
There is also a Maori Museum which was closed for the off season.
A bit further up river is the very impressive Rainbow Falls with a number of vantage points above and below. I did capture a number of rainbow shots with the camera (I did at Hururu Falls as well).
We then headed back to Paihia.
In the evening the views across the moonlit water from the campground were stunning.

Wednesday.
I headed out for another predawn trot along the trails and another chilly swim.
We headed to the wharf in town after breakfast.
We had a 4.5 hour cruise out to "The Hole in the Rock" awaiting us. This was our only other big spend beside Hobbiton. Cost us $USD180.
We had chosen to go with a small local company who also put a % of their profits into conservation of the Bay.
About 40 passengers, 2 deckhands and a very entertaining and informative skipper.
A sunny day and pretty calm waters and a bay full of islands.
2 minutes ater setting off we encountered some penguins, a few minutes later a pod of dolphins started following us. A fabulous start.
Our first stop was Motuarohia/Robertson Island.
We disembarked off the nose of the boat onto the beach. Then up a long climb of steps to an amazing lookout point.
James Cook back in 1769 had a skirmish with the Maori of this island. Once the situation calmed down he climbed to this lookout point to survey the area. Pretty significant for us Aussies of British origin as it was Cook in 1770 who "discovered" the East Coast of Australia. Of course our First Nation people who had been living there for 60,000 years might argue the point about him discovering the place.
Anyway it was pretty cool following in Cook's footsteps 256 years later. The island itself was pretty awesome.
Back on the boat and we were heading out of the bay and toward the open Pacific Ocean.
Our skipper kept us well informed.
We reached Cape Brett which has a lighthouse on it's headland.
A short distance beyond Cape Brett is Motukokako/Percy Island a large steep island with a hole in it.
We cruised up close. Around the island there were 100s of thousands of fish on or just below the surface. It was a pretty amazing thing to see.
With fairly calm seas the skipper lined up the hole and drove the boat through to the other side. That was fun. It was pretty bumpy going through.
We cruised around a few more of the islands including one that had seals sunning themselves. One of the seals decided to slide in to cool off right near the boat. We also encountered another pod of dolphins.
Our next stop was at large Urupukapuka. We had time there to have some lunch and do a bit of hiking. The views were to die for.
Homeward bound after that.
It was a brilliant cruise.
To be continued.

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Thursday week 3.
We left Paihia and headed south to busy Whangarei. A quick stop for petrol the onto Ruakaka Beach. A lovely white sand surf beach with views of Bream Head and Hen Island. The tall cliffs of Bream Head are topped by a castle like rock outcrop. I am guessing Cook gave Hen Island it's name because the split peak looks like an open Hen's beak.
After a walk and lunch we headed off into the hills.
I had a bit of a tip that there was a free to the public glow-worm cave about 12 kms off the highway. About 10 kms along we passed the Milky Way glow-worm cave, the least expensive of the commercial caves but still $USD27 per person.
2 kms on we pulled into a small parking area with a toilet block. Just 2 other cars with one about to leave. About a 100m away was a sign saying Waipu Cave.
We put on our surf shoes and head torches and clambered through the entrance.
We followed an ankle deep stream for maybe 20 metres out of the entrance light. Above us were 100s of glittering glow-worms. We continued in maybe 100 metres from the entrance to a large chamber where we met the 2 others that were in the cave. We all turned off our lights and the whole ceiling was glittering like a star filled night sky. Absolutely magnificent.
The cave looked a bit tricky beyond here so we slowly made our way back frequently turning our head torches off to get the full effect.
We were pretty chuffed with our find.

From there we headed into the little town of Waipu.
It was a bit of a gem itself. It has a small award winning museum about it's Scottish immigrants history. We marked that down for a visit in the morning.
Our campground was at Waipu Cove a few kms out of town. Gorgeous spot right on a wild surf beach. We were welcomed by an unusually friendly Pied Oyster Catcher.
The beach was covered in a mass of shells of all shapes and sizes at one end was a lovely secluded estuary.
A great view east across the surf to Bream Head, Hen Island and the rest of the Hen and Chicken Islands.
Friday week 3. Our last full day.
I was up in time to catch some perfect photos of the sun rising behind the shoulder of Hen Island.
After breakfast we headed into town to visit the
S museum (just $USD5 each with our Aussie seniors card discount).
We love little local museums and this one was a ripper. It covered a lot of Waipu history including it's Maori history but it's focus was the Scottish migration.
900 Scots migrated from Canada to Waipu and this was their story and a great story it is. It seems not a detal is missed.
Today there are over 10,000 descendents of those 900 spread far and wide.

After the museum we were off up the Waipu Gorge, I had got another tip about a beautiful place. We parked above the gorge and hiked about 500m to a fast flowing stream at the bottom of a waterfall. How beautiful was this spot? Well when I posted my unedited, unfiltered phone photos I was accused of using AI images.
We had lunch there, perfect.
Back down to the highway and sadly we were pretty much done and dusted. An hour later we pulled into a campground on the outskirts of Auckland all but ending our 3 week roadtrip.
Saturday.
Dropped off the van then a shuttle to the airport. Flew out at 3.30.

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10977 posts

What an amazing adventure! Thank you for sharing. We are interested in going to NZ next year in late October/November and I would like to know more about traveling by camper van. Is that a good time of year for camping? How easy is it to find places to stay? What kind of facilities are common? Any tips? We are experienced campers (glampers) because we have a travel trailer (5th wheel), but we have never tried a camper van. Thanks for any advice you can provide. :-)

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103 posts

So great to hear about your adventure. We are getting closer and closer to our trip, but you have added some food for thought for our experience. I am so glad you enjoyed your trip. Its sounds wonderful!

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495 posts

Our trip was very low budget and we skipped a lot of "must see" type sights because a) we'd been there before and/or b) they were a bit too expensive.
That was certainly the case in Rotorua, this was my third time there.
Costs.
Airfares about $USD700.
Campervan about 1500.
Total of campgrounds and 2 motels 500.
Hobbiton 140.
Hole in the Rock cruise 180.
Other sights/museums 80.
Fuel 240
Other (mostly groceries) 500.

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495 posts

October/November (springtime) should be a good time of year Andrea. It might be a bit busier than April/May, probably is shoulder season.
We never prebooked and never missed out on getting a site. This trip we used only powered sites in commercial campgrounds. Last year on the South Island we did 3 "Freedom Camps", in designated areas for free camping. To do so your vehicle has to be certified self contained (internal toilet system).
Powered sites that we have stayed in varied from $NZD 35 to 57 for 2 people ( about USD 20 to 35). Typically a large communal kitchen and bathroom facilities. Usually a common room of some sort. Also maybe a "dump station" for toilet and grey water.
Standards of facilities varied greatly and really no price/ facilities correlation. This trip our best facilities were in the cheapest one and the worst in the most expensive.
We never travelled more than 2 hours driving time between overnight stops on both trips and could always find somewhere.
We have campervanned around England, Wales, Scotland, Ireland, Western Australia and Tasmania as well. It is a good fun, inexpensive way to do it.
Cheers.

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10977 posts

Thanks so much for all of that information. I’m going to consider it for next year.