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Two days in Antwerp

Hello - We are going to be in Antwerp for three nights and two full days next week (early October) and are staying in a central location. We have tickets for the Rubenshuis and gardens (the house is closed for renovations but there is an exhibition available and of course the grounds) one afternoon, and the next day we have tickets for the KMSK.

We love art and history and as is this is my first time in Belgium, I'd like to see how the early Flemish lived. I love house museums and did some research and three pop up, other than the Rubens house (sadly not open when we are going): Museum Plantin-Moretus, Snijders&Rockoxhuis, and Museum Vleeshuis. Since we don't have enough time to check out all three, is there one that stands out to those who have been? The websites for all look pretty good - hard to choose from websites alone. An experienced traveler is always a better advisor. Thank you.

Posted by
696 posts

If you are interested in Rubens, I highly recommend the Cathedral of Our Lady in the historic center of Antwerp. It has 4 alterpieces by Rubens. I am not familiar with the museums you asked about.

Posted by
86 posts

Museum Vleeshuis closed in september 2024 for a restoration and, in planning, will re-open in 2030.

Posted by
86 posts

I'd like to see how the early Flemish lived

You can't see this in Antwerp. Flemish people (=Vlamingen in dutch) were the people living in the County of Flanders [The main cities were Bruges, Ghent, Ypres, Kortrijk, Tournai (until 1187), Arras (until 1191) and Lille (until 1667)].

The city of Antwerp was not part of this County, but was part of the Duchy of Brabant, river Scheldt forming the frontier.

The name Flanders for the northern Dutch-speaking half of Belgium only gradually gained acceptance after 1830, with the slow growth of the Flemish movement.

Posted by
183 posts

I visited Plantin-Moretus in 2023. I love it, but then I'm interested in ancient printing techniques and keeping knowledge alive during the Renaissance. I wouldn't call it a house museum; it is a business museum if you will--a place where a large printing business operated. If the subject matter interests you, it's great. If not, it would be a bust. It isn't a quick visit either.

Posted by
8510 posts

Consider the Rocoxhuis, which unlike Rubenshuis (over-rated in my opinion), owns some art. Excellent historic interiors at the Magdenhuis (foundling home) and at the superb little art museum (they own "Mad Meg") Mayer Van den Burg. Plantin-Moretus is a UNESCO WHS, so I guess you have to go, they own a lot of Rubens works on paper. The KMSKA is a huge world-class art museum, which was just gut-renovated. They probably have 40+ Rubens paintings on show, but I haven't been there since the renovation.

See if you have time for the 100+ themed turn of the 20th Century townhouses (exteriors only) at the Cogels Osy-Lei, weather permitting.

Posted by
86 posts

Just in case you shouldn't know, the St James' Church is also being renovated. The east side with Rubens' burial chapel is not accessible. The west side remains open to visitors.
And also open to visitors are the Saint Paul's Church and the Saint Charles Borromeo Church.

Posted by
49 posts

Thanks to all who responded. I learned so much! (Though not sure how I will tell our travel companion - my very proud Flemish friend - that her beloved Antwerp is not considered truly Flemish.)

As for the temporary closures of some of these museums, while disappointing, it has the added advantage of making our decisions for us. The Rocoxhuis it is, the Plantin Moretus seems a must, the Magdenhuis and what they have on view of the Mayer van den Burg. Also the Cathedral of our Lady (already on our list), and just learned from Tim about the Cogels-Osylei. If we can get there we certainly will.

A million thanks!

Posted by
86 posts

Cogels-Osylei lies in the neighborhood Zurenborg with its whimsical architecture, packed with impressive Art Nouveau villas and Belle Epoque mansions.
More information here https://visit.antwerpen.be/en/neighbourhood-in-the-spotlight-zurenborg

Also know tram line 11 is out of use https://www.delijn.be/en/nieuws/antwerpen-onderbreking-tramlijn-11/

Unfortunately, the Zurenborg online brochure is only available in Dutch https://assets.antwerpen.be/srv/assets/api/download/007398a2-817d-45bc-8a98-99153a1b3358/Zurenborg.pdf

Posted by
2284 posts

Seeing how the Flemish once lived you have to go outside Antwerp to open-air Museum Bokrijk, the Volkskundemuseum in Bruges or Huis van Alijn in Ghent.

https://bokrijk.be/en
https://www.museabrugge.be/en/visit-our-museums/our-museums-and-monuments/volkskundemuseum
https://huisvanalijn.be/en

With two full days you won't have time for this, but I wouldn't be surprised you want to come back and put it on your list for a next visit to Belgium.

Posted by
8510 posts

Because you mentioned history, I should mention that the very popular MAS [museum] absorbed the Shipping (trade) museum on one of its varied floors. The Red Star Museum is about a major shipping company. If your visit includes Sunday, the TI may sell tickets to a village that was abandoned to build the new (today's) port, and for the Art Deco-ish town hall.

Also, there used to be an elaborate "folk museum" behind a bar in the Deurne neighborhood, open for a few hours on Sunday. Access discussed here:
https://community.ricksteves.com/travel-forum/belgium/march-visit-to-belgium-time-in-mechelen

Posted by
86 posts

If your visit includes Sunday, the TI may sell tickets to a village that was abandoned to build the new (today's) port

Don't forget to update yourself. An initial plan has been drawn up for the reconstruction of the village of Doel. There will be space for approximately 125 homes in total. Construction can begin next year. The village center of Doel 2.0 will be more compact, with car-free streets. A large visitor parking lot is planned near the old monastery. Future residents should be aware that there will be no services, such as a school or supermarket. There is also a parking lot at the Scheldemolen windmill. This is primarily intended for waterbus and ferry users. The renovation of the marina is scheduled for completion by the end of 2026. A floating jetty will be built for the ferry and waterbus, accessible at both low and high tide. Renovation of the first homes will begin in 2026. New Doel residents will be able to move in starting in 2027. Work will begin around Gemeenteplein and will continue in phases. Land is also being sold to private investors. A number of iconic buildings are ideally suited for a café or B&B.